"TAKE it from me," said my friend from Kansas, leaning back in his seat at the Taverne Royale and holding his cigar in his two fingers--"don"t talk no French here in Paris. They don"t expect it, and they don"t seem to understand it."

This man from Kansas, mind you, had a right to speak. He _knew_ French.

He had learned French--he told me so himself--_good_ French, at the Fayetteville Cla.s.sical Academy. Later on he had had the natural method "off" a man from New Orleans. It had cost him "fifty cents a throw." All this I have on his own word. But in France something seemed to go wrong with his French.

"No," he said reflectively, "I guess what most of them speak here is a sort of patois."

When he said it was a patois, I knew just what he meant. It was equivalent to saying that he couldn"t understand it.

I had seen him strike patois before. There had been a French steward on the steamer coming over, and the man from Kansas, after a couple of attempts, had said it was no use talking French to that man. He spoke a hopeless patois. There were half a dozen cabin pa.s.sengers, too, returning to their homes in France. But we soon found from listening to their conversation on deck that what they were speaking was not French but some sort of patois.

It was the same thing coming through Normandy. Patois, everywhere, not a word of French--not a single sentence of the real language, in the way they had it at Fayetteville. We stopped off a day at Rouen to look at the cathedral. A sort of abbot showed us round. Would you believe it, that man spoke patois, straight patois--the very worst kind, and fast.

The man from Kansas had spotted it at once. He hadn"t listened to more than ten sentences before he recognized it. "Patois," he said.

Of course, it"s fine to be able to detect patois like this. It"s impressive. The mere fact that you know the word patois shows that you must be mighty well educated.

Here in Paris it was the same way. Everybody that the man from Kansas tried--waiters, hotel clerks, shop people--all spoke patois. An educated person couldn"t follow it.

On the whole, I think the advice of the man from Kansas is good. When you come to Paris, leave French behind. You don"t need it, and they don"t expect it of you.

In any case, you soon learn from experience not to use it.

If you try to, this is what happens. You summon a waiter to you and you say to him very slowly, syllable by syllable, so as to give him every chance in case he"s not an educated man:

"Bringez moi de la soupe, de la fish, de la roast pork et de la fromage."

And he answers:

"Yes, sir, roast pork, sir, and a little bacon on the side?"

That waiter was raised in Illinois.

Or suppose you stop a man on the street and you say to him:

"Musshoo, s"il vous plait, which is la direction pour aller a le Palais Royal?"

And he answers:

"Well, I tell you, I"m something of a stranger here myself, but I guess it"s straight down there a piece."

Now it"s no use speculating whether that man comes from Dordogne Inferieure or from Auvergne-sur-les-Puits because he doesn"t.

On the other hand, you may strike a real Frenchman--there are some even in Paris. I met one the other day in trying to find my way about, and I asked him:

"Musshoo, s"il vous plait, which is la direction pour aller a Thomas Cook & Son?"

"B"n"m"ss"ulvla"n"fsse"n"sse"pas!"

I said: "Thank you so much! I had half suspected it myself." But I didn"t really know what he meant.

So I have come to make it a rule never to use French unless driven to it. Thus, for example, I had a tremendous linguistic struggle in a French tailors shop.

There was a sign in the window to the effect that "completes" might be had "for a hundred." It seemed a chance not to be missed. Moreover, the same sign said that English and German were spoken.

So I went in. True to my usual principle of ignoring the French language, I said to the head man:

"You speak English?"

He shrugged his shoulders, spread out his hands and looked at the clock on the wall.

"Presently," he said.

"Oh," I said, "you"ll speak it presently. That"s splendid. But why not speak it right away?"

The tailor again looked at the clock with a despairing shrug.

"At twelve o"clock," he said.

"Come now," I said, "be fair about this. I don"t want to wait an hour and a half for you to begin to talk. Let"s get at it right now."

But he was obdurate. He merely shook his head and repeated:

"Speak English at twelve o"clock."

Judging that he must be under a vow of abstinence during the morning, I tried another idea.

"Allemand?" I asked, "German, Deutsch, eh! speak that?"

Again the French tailor shook his head, this time with great decision.

"Not till four o"clock," he said.

This was evidently final. He might be lax enough to talk English at noon, but he refused point-blank to talk German till he had his full strength.

I was just wondering whether there wasn"t some common sense in this after all, when the solution of it struck me.

"Ah!" I said, speaking in French, "tres bong! there is somebody who comes at twelve, quelqu"un qui vient a midi, who can talk English."

[Ill.u.s.tration: The tailor shrugged his shoulders.]

"Precis.e.m.e.nt," said the tailor, wreathed in smiles and waving his tape coquettishly about his neck.

"You flirt!" I said, "but let"s get to business. I want a suit, un soot, un complete, complet, comprenez-vous, veston, gilet, une pair de panteloon--everything--do you get it?"

The tailor was now all animation.

"Ah, certainement," he said, "monsieur desires a fantasy, une fantaisie, is it not?"

A fantasy! Good heavens!