Grommets are round, endless rings of rope useful in a myriad ways aboard ship as well as ash.o.r.e. They are often used as handles for chests, for rings with which to play quoits, to lengthen rope, and in many similar ways. The grommet is formed of a single strand of rope _five times as long as the circ.u.mference of the grommet when complete_. Take the strand and lay one end across the other at the size of loop required and with the long end follow the grooves or "lay" of the strand until back to where you started (Fig. 84), thus forming a two-stranded ring. Then continue twisting the free end between the turns already made until the three-strand ring is complete (Fig. 85). Now finish and secure the ends by making overhand knots, pa.s.s the ends underneath the nearest strands and trim ends off close (Fig. 86). If care is taken and you remember to keep a strong twist on the strand while "laying up" the grommet, the finished ring will be as firm and smooth and endless as the original rope.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIGS. 84, 85, and 86.--Grommet complete and making.]

A "Sevagee" or "Selvagee" strap is another kind of ring (Fig. 87).

This is made by pa.s.sing a number of strands or yarns around pins or nails set in a board (Fig. 88), and binding the whole together with a seizing of yarn or marline (Fig. 89). These are strong, durable straps much used for blocks aboard ship, for handles to boxes and chests, and in many similar ways. A "Flemish Eye" (Fig. 90) is an eye made in a manner much like that employed in forming the selvagee strap. Take a spar or piece of wood the size of the intended eye _A_. Around this wood lay a number of pieces of yarn or marline, _B_, _B_, _B_, and fasten them by tying with twine as at _C_. Whip the piece of rope in which eye is to be formed and unravel and open out the strands as at _D_. Lap the yarns over the wood and the stops _B_, and fasten together by overhand knots _E_, worm the free ends under and over and then bring up the ends of the stops _B_ and tie around the strands of eye as shown. The eye may be finished neatly by whipping all around with yarn or marline, and will then appear as in Fig. 90 _B_. An "Artificial Eye" (Fig. 91) is still another form of eye which will be found useful and in some ways easier and quicker to make than a spliced eye, besides being stronger.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 87.--Selvagee strap.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 88.--Selvagee board.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 89.--Seizing a selvagee strap.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 90 _A_.--Making Flemish eye.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 90 _B_.--Flemish eye (complete).]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 91.--Artificial eye.]

Take the end of a rope and unlay one strand; place the two remaining strands back alongside of the standing part (Fig. 92). Pa.s.s the loose strand which has been unlaid over the end, and follow around the s.p.a.ces between the two strands and then around eye,--as in making a grommet,--until it returns down the standing part and lies under the eye with the strands (Fig. 93). Then divide the strands, taper them down, and whip the whole with yarn or marline (Fig. 94).

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIGS. 92 and 93.--Making artificial eye.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 94.--Artificial eye (whipped).]

Still another eye which at times will be useful is the "Throat Seizing," shown in Fig. 95. This is made by opening the end slightly and lashing it to the standing part as shown. Another ring sometimes used is ill.u.s.trated in Fig. 96, and is easily and quickly made by lashing the two ends of a short rope to the standing part of another.

Cuckolds" necks with lashings or "Clinches" are also used for the same purpose.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 95.--Throat seizing.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 96.--Lashed cut-splice.]

CHAPTER VI

LASHINGS, SEIZINGS, SPLICES, ETC.

Almost any one can lash a rope more or less satisfactorily, but a knowledge of how to do this properly and in the manner best suited to each case is of great importance to seamen and others having occasion to handle ropes, rigging, or in fact any cordage.

The varieties of lashings, seizings, whippings, and servings are almost innumerable, but a few of the best and most frequently used are the "Wedding Knot" or "Rose Lashing," the "Deadeye Lashing," the "Belaying-pin Splice," the "Necklace Tie," the "Close Band," and "End Pointings." The rose lashing (Fig. 97) is used to join two eyes or ropes finished with loops. The deadeye lashing (Fig. 98) is frequently used on ships" standing rigging and is a familiar sight to every one who has seen a sailing-vessel. It consists of a small line reeved back and forth through the holes in the "deadeyes," _A_; the ends are then seized to the standing rigging to prevent slipping. This lashing admits of easy and rapid lengthening or shortening of the rigging and is particularly useful in connection with wire cable. A similar method may be used with loops instead of deadeyes (Fig. 99). The belaying-pin splice, shown in Fig. 100, is a quick and handy way of fastening two ropes together and is of great value when rigging is carried away and some quick method of joining the severed ends is required. Pa.s.s a belaying-pin or similar toggle through an eye or loop in one end of a rope and pa.s.s this through a loop or eye in the broken rope end. Form a loop in the other broken end, slip the free end of the lanyard through this and around another toggle or pin and haul taut; then fasten by half-hitches around standing part (_A_, Fig. 100), or by seizing (_B_, Fig. 100). This is a strong, reliable fastening and can be tightened up or instantly thrown off at will.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 97.--Rose lashing.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 98.--Deadeye lashing.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 99.--Loop lashing.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 100.--Belaying-pin splice.]

The necklace tie is useful in holding two ropes, hawsers, or timbers side by side (Fig. 101). The lashing is pa.s.sed around and around the two objects to be joined and the ends secured by a square knot pa.s.sed around the band lengthwise. The close band is used for the same purposes as the last and is made in the same manner, but the ends are fastened by drawing through beneath the turns (Fig. 102).

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 101.--Necklace tie.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 102.--Close band.]

End pointings are very useful as well as ornamental, for while an ordinary seizing or whipping will prevent the strands from unravelling, the ends are broad and clumsy and oftentimes are too large to pa.s.s through a block or eye large enough for the rest of the rope. The ordinary way of pointing a rope is to first whip as described (Fig. 4), and then unlay the end as for the Flemish eye.

Take out about two-thirds of the yarns and twist each in two. Take two parts of different yarns and twist together with finger and thumb, keeping the lay on the yarn and thus forming left-handed stuff known as "nettles." Comb out the rest of the yarn with a knife, leaving a few to lay back upon the rope. Now pa.s.s three turns of twine like a timber-hitch tightly around the part where the nettles separate and fasten the twine, and while pa.s.sing this "warp" lay the nettles backward and forward with each turn. The ends are now whipped with twine or yarn and finally "snaked," which is done by taking the end under and over the outer turns of the seizing alternately. If the rope is small a stick is often put in the upper part to strengthen it or the tip maybe finished with a small eye. If properly done a pointed rope is very handsome and appears as in _B_, Fig. 103. Another simple way of finishing a rope end is to seize the end, as at _A_, Fig. 104, and open out the strands, bring the strands back alongside the rope, and whip the whole (Fig. 105).

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 103.--Pointing a rope.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 104.--Ending rope.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 105.--Ending rope.]

Splicing is, in many cases, more useful and better than tying or bending ropes together and a good splice always looks neater and more ship-shape than a knot, no matter how well-made it may be. A person familiar with splicing will turn in a splice almost as quickly as the ordinary man can tie a secure knot, and in many cases, where the rope must pa.s.s through sheaves or blocks, a splice is absolutely necessary to fasten two ropes or two parts of a parted rope together. The simplest of all splices is known as the "Short Splice" (Fig. 106).

This is made as follows: Untwist the ends of the rope for a few inches and seize with twine to prevent further unwinding, as shown at _A_, _A_; also seize the end of each strand to prevent unravelling and grease or wax the strands until smooth and even. Now place the two ends of the ropes together as shown at _B_, _B_. Then with a marline-spike, or a pointed stick, work open the strand 1 _c_, and through this pa.s.s the strand _A_ of the other rope; then open strand 2 and pa.s.s the next strand of the other rope through it and then the same way with the third strand. Next open up the strands of the other rope, below the seizing, and pa.s.s the strands of the first rope through as before, 3 _A_, _B_. The ropes will now appear as in Fig.

106, _D_. Now untwist the six strands and cut away about half the yarns from each and seize the ends as before; pa.s.s these reduced strands through under the whole strands of the rope--the strands of the left under the strands of the right rope and _vice versa_--for two or three lays and then cut off projecting ends, after drawing all as tight as you can. If an extra-neat splice is desired the strands should be gradually tapered as you proceed, and in this way a splice but little larger than the original diameter of the rope will result.

The only difficulty you will find in making this splice is in getting the strands to come together in such a way that two strands will not run under the same strand of the opposite rope. To avoid this, bear in mind that the _first strand must be pa.s.sed over the strand which is first next to it and through under the second and out between the second and third_. In the following operations the strands are pa.s.sed _over_ the third and _under_ the fourth; but the figures will make this perfectly clear. A far better and stronger splice is the "Long Splice," which will run through any block or tackle which will admit the rope itself; indeed, a well-made long splice cannot be distinguished from the rope itself after a few days" use (Fig. 107).

To make this useful splice, unlay the ends of the rope about four times as much as for the short splice, or from four to five feet, unlay one strand in each rope for half as much again; place the middle strands together as at _A_, then the additional strands will appear as at _B_ and _C_, and the spiral groove, left where they were unlaid, will appear as at _D_ and _E_. Take off the two central strands, _F_ and _G_, and lay them into the grooves, _D_, _E_, until they meet _B_ and _C_, and be sure and keep them tightly twisted while so doing.

Then take strands _H_ and _J_, cut out half the yarns in each, make an overhand knot in them and tuck the ends under the next lays as in a short splice. Do the same with strands _B_, _C_ and _F_, _G_; dividing, knotting, and sticking the divided strands in the same way.

Finally stretch the rope tight, pull and pound and roll the splice until smooth and round, and trim off all loose ends close to the rope.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 106.--Short splice.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG, 106 _D_.--Short splice (continued).]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 107.--Long splice.]

An "Eye Splice" (Fig. 108) is very easy to make and is useful and handy in a great variety of ways. It is made in the same manner as the short splice, but instead of splicing the two ends together, the end of the rope is unlaid and then bent around and spliced into its own strands of the standing part, as shown in the ill.u.s.tration. A "Cut Splice" (Fig. 109) is made just as an eye splice or short splice, but instead of splicing two ropes together end to end, or splicing an end into a standing part, the ends are lapped and each is spliced into the standing part of the other, thus forming a loop or eye in the centre of a rope. Once the short and long splices are mastered, all other splices, as well as many useful variations, will come easy.

Oftentimes, for example, one strand of a rope may become worn, frayed, or broken, while the remaining strands are perfectly sound. In such cases the weak strand may be unlaid and cut off and then a new strand of the same length is laid up in the groove left by the old strand exactly as in a long splice; the ends are then tapered, stuck under the lay, as in a short splice, and the repair is complete; and if well done will never show and will be as strong as the original rope.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 108.--Eye splice.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 109.--Cut splice.]

CHAPTER VII

FANCY KNOTS AND ROPE WORK

The knots and splices described above are all more for practical use than ornament, although such shortenings as the Single and Double plaits, the Chain knots, the Twofold, Fourfold, and Sixfold knots, and others are often used for ornamental purposes only. A certain cla.s.s of knots are, however, really ornamental and seldom serve to fasten two ropes together, or to make any object fast to another. They are, however, very useful in many ways, especially aboard ship, and they are so handsome and interesting that every one interested in rope work should learn to make them. The simplest of the fancy knots is known as the "Single Crown" (Fig. 110). To form this knot unlay the strands of a new, flexible rope for six to eight inches and whip the ends of each strand, as well as the standing part, to prevent further untwisting.

Hold the rope in your left hand and fold one strand over and away from you, as shown in _A_, Fig. 111. Then fold the next strand over _A_ (see _B_, Fig. 111), and then, while holding these in place with thumb and finger, pa.s.s the strand _C_ over strand _B_, and through the bight of _A_ as shown in the ill.u.s.tration. Now pull all ends tight and work the bights up smooth and snug; cut off ends and the knot is complete. This single crown is a very poor knot to stand by itself, however, and is mainly valuable as a basis for other more complicated knots and for ending up rope. To end up a rope with a crown it is merely necessary to leave the projecting ends long and then by bringing them down tuck under the strands of the standing part, as shown in Fig. 112. Then halve the strands and tuck again, as in making a short splice, until the result appears as in Fig. 113. This makes a neat, handy, and ship-shape finish to a rope"s end and is very useful for painters, halyards, etc. It will never work loose like a seizing and is quickly put on at any time, whereas to make a seizing one must be provided with small stuff of some sort, and this is frequently not at hand. The "Wall Knot" (Fig. 114) is almost as simple as the crown, and in fact is practically a crown reversed. In making this knot bring _C_ downward and across the standing part; then bring _A_ over _C_ and around standing part and finally bring _B_ over _A_ and up through bight of _C_, Fig. 115. When drawn snug the ends may be trimmed off close or they may be tucked and tapered as in the crown and will then appear as in Fig. 116. As in the case of the crown knot, the wall is mainly of value as an ending when ends are tucked, or as a basis for more ornamental knots such as the "Wall and Crown," or "Double Wall," or "Double Crown." It is also very largely used in making "Shroud Knots" (Fig. 117). The common shroud knot is made by opening up the strands of a rope"s end as for a short splice and placing the two ends together in the same way. Then single "wall" the strands of one rope around the standing part of another against the lay, taper the ends, and tuck and serve all with yarn or marline (Fig.

118). The "French Shroud Knot" is far neater and better, but is a little harder to make. Open up the strands and place closely together as for the short splice; make a loop of strand _A_, pa.s.s the end of _B_ through the bight of _A_, as at _C_, make a loop of strand _D_, and pa.s.s the end of strand _A_ through it as at _D_; then pa.s.s the end of strand _D_ through the bight of strand _B_ and one side is complete. Repeat the operation on the other side, draw all ends taut, and taper and tuck the ends. The whole should then be served carefully and the finished knot will appear as in Fig. 120.