FINE STRAINER, also called a also called a CHINOIS CHINOIS: This is essential for straining cooked custard bases, fruit purees, etc. Look for one that will hook over the bowl or other container, which will free up your hands when you strain any mixture. This is essential for straining cooked custard bases, fruit purees, etc. Look for one that will hook over the bowl or other container, which will free up your hands when you strain any mixture.

MICROPLANE: One of the greatest inventions in pastrydom in the past fifteen years, this rasp grater is used to zest citrus, as well as to grate ginger and spices such as nutmeg. One of the greatest inventions in pastrydom in the past fifteen years, this rasp grater is used to zest citrus, as well as to grate ginger and spices such as nutmeg.

SCALE: An electronic or spring-loaded scale is invaluable in pastry making-it is much more accurate and foolproof than measuring by volume, using measuring cups and spoons. An electronic or spring-loaded scale is invaluable in pastry making-it is much more accurate and foolproof than measuring by volume, using measuring cups and spoons.

INSTANT-READ DIGITAL THERMOMETER: Using a thermometer is the most accurate way to monitor the cooking of a custard base. Using a thermometer is the most accurate way to monitor the cooking of a custard base.

IMMERSION BLENDER: A small handheld immersion blender is useful for mixing certain gelato bases, pureeing fruit, and other tasks. A small handheld immersion blender is useful for mixing certain gelato bases, pureeing fruit, and other tasks.

ICE CREAM MAKER: There are basically two types of units available for churning ice cream. One version has an insulated bucket/cylinder that you must put in the freezer for at least twenty-four hours before inserting it in the hand-cranked or motorized chamber. The other type, which is larger and more expensive, is a self-contained motorized freezer unit. You can use either type for these recipes. There are basically two types of units available for churning ice cream. One version has an insulated bucket/cylinder that you must put in the freezer for at least twenty-four hours before inserting it in the hand-cranked or motorized chamber. The other type, which is larger and more expensive, is a self-contained motorized freezer unit. You can use either type for these recipes.

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FOOD PROCESSOR: Among other tasks, a food processor is useful for grinding nuts and other flavoring ingredients such as coffee beans, whole spices, and more. Among other tasks, a food processor is useful for grinding nuts and other flavoring ingredients such as coffee beans, whole spices, and more.

A 2- 2-QUART HEAVY-BOTTOMED SAUCEPAN: A heavy pan is essential for cooking custard bases and making caramel. A heavy pan is essential for cooking custard bases and making caramel.

BOWLS: Metal bowls are best, as they conduct heat/cold well (and will never break), and they can be used over heat or in an ice bath. A bowl that fits snugly over your 2-quart saucepan is invaluable. Metal bowls are best, as they conduct heat/cold well (and will never break), and they can be used over heat or in an ice bath. A bowl that fits snugly over your 2-quart saucepan is invaluable.

HAND TOOLS: These include heatproof spatulas for stirring custards, a medium metal whisk, a small ladle, an offset spatula, and a set of sharp knives. These include heatproof spatulas for stirring custards, a medium metal whisk, a small ladle, an offset spatula, and a set of sharp knives.

ICE BATH: It is important to chill cooked custard bases as quickly as possible, for safety reasons, and the most efficient way to do this is with an ice bath. Fill a container slightly larger than the one that you will strain the cooked base into with ice and a little cold water. Stir the base frequently while it is sitting in the bath so it cools quickly, then cover and chill in the refrigerator. It is important to chill cooked custard bases as quickly as possible, for safety reasons, and the most efficient way to do this is with an ice bath. Fill a container slightly larger than the one that you will strain the cooked base into with ice and a little cold water. Stir the base frequently while it is sitting in the bath so it cools quickly, then cover and chill in the refrigerator.

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Strawberry Gelato [image]

Campari Grapefruit Sorbetto [image]

Cantaloupe Sorbetto [image]

Lemon Sorbetto [image]

Sweet Corn Coppetta WITH BLACKBERRY SAUCE.

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Caramel Coppetta [image]

Ricotta Coppetta [image]

Black & White Coppetta [image]

Olive Oil Coppetta

Gelato Creme Fraiche Gelato MAKES ABOUT 5 CUPS.

Creme fraiche is cultured heavy cream. It"s available in gourmet shops and many supermarkets, but it"s easy to make your own: Combine 4 parts heavy cream with 1 part b.u.t.termilk in a covered container and let it stand at cool room temperature (65 to 70F) for 24 to 36 hours, until it thickens and sours slightly. Stir it well, and refrigerate it until ready to use; it will keep for up to a week. Because creme fraiche contains a lot of fat, this gelato needs no egg yolks or other emulsifiers to give it a luscious mouthfeel.

2 cups milk cup sugar cup corn syrup 1 cups (14 ounces) creme fraiche teaspoon salt Combine the milk, sugar, and corn syrup in a medium saucepan and heat over medium heat, stirring, until the sugar is dissolved and the temperature registers 160F on an instant-read thermometer. Pour the mixture into a heatproof bowl and chill over an ice bath, stirring occasionally, until cold.

Using an immersion blender or a whisk, mix the creme fraiche and salt into the milk mixture. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer into another bowl or container, cover, and refrigerate for at least 6 hours, or, preferably, overnight.

Whisk the creme fraiche mixture until smooth. Freeze the gelato in an ice cream maker according to the manufacturer"s instructions. Pack into a freezer container and freeze for at least 1 hour before serving. (The gelato is best served the day it is made.) (The gelato is best served the day it is made.)

Strawberry Gelato MAKES ABOUT 5 CUPS PHOTO GELATO & SORBETTO.

Making a well-textured, flavorful gelato with fruit can present a challenge, because the water and sugar content of fruits can vary with the source and the season. Generally we prefer not to cook fruit for gelati; instead, we just chop it and toss it with sugar and a pinch of salt, to extract some of the water from the fruit and intensify the flavor. Too much water produces an icy gelato, but too much fruit will make the texture overly dense, so we add a little nonfat dry milk powder to absorb some of the water.

2 tablespoons nonfat dry milk powder cup sugar 1 cups milk cup heavy cream 4 large egg yolks One 14-ounce can sweetened condensed milk 1 pound strawberries, hulled and chopped teaspoon salt Whisk the dry milk and 2 tablespoons of the sugar together in a small bowl. Combine the milk and cream in a large heavy-bottomed saucepan and stir in the dry milk mixture. Bring just to a simmer over medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar.

Meanwhile, whisk the egg yolks and 2 tablespoons sugar together in a medium heatproof bowl. Gradually whisk in about 1 cup of the hot milk mixture, then return to the saucepan and stir in the condensed milk. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly with a heatproof spatula or a wooden spoon, until the custard registers 185F on an instant-read thermometer.

Immediately strain the custard through a fine-mesh strainer into a heatproof bowl and chill over an ice bath, stirring occasionally, until cold. Cover and refrigerate for at least 6 hours, or, preferably, overnight.

Meanwhile, combine the strawberries, the remaining cup sugar, and the salt in a medium bowl. Cover and refrigerate for 45 minutes.

Drain the strawberries. Add to the chilled custard, mixing with an immersion blender and breaking up the strawberries. Or transfer the strawberries and custard to a regular blender, in batches, and blend well.

Pour the strawberry mixture into an ice cream maker and freeze according to the manufacturer"s instructions. Pack the gelato into a freezer container and freeze for at least 3 hours before serving. (The gelato is best served the day it is made.) (The gelato is best served the day it is made.)

Caramel Gelato MAKES ABOUT 5 CUPS.

The best caramel gelato has a perfect balance of sweet and bitter, which requires letting the caramelized sugar bubble and even smoke before adding the milk to it. We like this gelato made with a very dark caramel.

cup plus 3 tablespoons sugar 2 tablespoons water vanilla bean, split, or teaspoon vanilla extract 2 cups milk 1 cup heavy cream 9 large egg yolks teaspoon salt cup plus 2 tablespoons sweetened condensed milk Stir cup of the sugar and the water together in a large heavy-bottomed saucepan. If using a vanilla bean, sc.r.a.pe the seeds from the bean with a paring knife and add the seeds and bean to the pan. Set the pan over medium heat and cook, stirring, until the sugar is dissolved, then cook without stirring, swirling the pan occasionally, until the caramel is a dark, slightly smoky brown (see "Burn, Baby, Burn," Gelato & Sorbetto, for how we make caramel in our kitchen).

Meanwhile, combine the milk and cream in a large measuring cup.

As soon as the caramel is ready, remove it from the heat and carefully pour in the cream mixture; the mixture will bubble up. Return the pan to low heat and cook, stirring to dissolve all the hardened bits of caramel, until steam starts to rise from the surface.

Meanwhile, whisk the egg yolks, the remaining 3 tablespoons sugar, and the salt together in a medium heatproof bowl. Gradually whisk in about 1 cup of the caramel milk until smooth, then return the mixture to the saucepan and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly with a heatproof spatula or a wooden spoon, until the custard registers 185F on an instant-read thermometer.

Immediately strain the custard though a fine-mesh strainer into another heatproof bowl and stir in the condensed milk and vanilla extract, if using. Chill over an ice bath, stirring occasionally, until cold. Cover and refrigerate for at least 6 hours, or, preferably, overnight.