Freeze the gelato in an ice cream maker according to the manufacturer"s instructions. Pack into a freezer container and freeze for at least 2 hours before serving. (The gelato is best served the day it is made.) (The gelato is best served the day it is made.)

Milk Chocolate Chip Gelato MAKES ABOUT 1 QUARTS.

We make our own chocolate ganache chips for this gelato. Their melt-in-your-mouth texture is superior to that of chopped chocolate, though you can use that option if you so desire.

MAKES ABOUT 1 QUARTS.

8 ounces high-quality milk chocolate, chopped cup heavy cream cup corn syrup cup sugar 1 tablespoon unsweetened cocoa powder 3 cups milk 8 large egg yolks teaspoon salt Chocolate Ganache Chips (recipe follows) or 10 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped into bits Put the chocolate in a small heatproof bowl. Combine the cream and corn syrup in a small saucepan and bring to a simmer. Pour the cream over the chocolate and stir gently until it is completely melted. Set aside.

Stir cup of the sugar and the cocoa powder together in a small bowl. Pour the milk into a large heavy-bottomed saucepan, add the sugar mixture, and bring just to a simmer over medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar and cocoa.

Meanwhile, whisk the egg yolks, the remaining cup sugar, and the salt together in a medium bowl. Gradually whisk in about 1 cup of the hot milk until smooth, then return the mixture to the saucepan and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly with a heatproof spatula or a wooden spoon, until the custard registers 185F on an instant-read thermometer.

Immediately remove the custard from the heat and stir in the melted chocolate mixture, making sure the chocolate is completely incorporated. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer into another heatproof bowl and chill over an ice bath, stirring occasionally, until cold. Cover and refrigerate for at least 6 hours, or, preferably, overnight.

Freeze the gelato in an ice cream maker according to the manufacturer"s instructions. Transfer to a bowl and freeze for 1 hour.

Stir the chocolate ganache chips (or chopped chocolate) into the ice cream. Pack into a freezer container and freeze for at least 1 hour before serving. (The gelato is best served the day it is made.) (The gelato is best served the day it is made.)

CHOCOLATE GANACHE CHIPS.

MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS.

cup heavy cream 9 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped Combine the cream and chocolate in a medium heatproof bowl, set it over a saucepan of gently simmering water, and heat, stirring occasionally with a heatproof spatula, until the chocolate is melted and the mixture is smooth. Remove from the heat.

Line a small baking sheet or baking pan with parchment paper. Spread the melted chocolate evenly in a -inch-thick layer on the pan. Freeze for 1 hour, or until hard.

Remove the pan from the freezer and, working quickly, chop the ganache into small irregular pieces about inch in size. Return the chips, still on the pan, to the freezer and freeze for 30 minutes before using. (The ganache chips can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.) (The ganache chips can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.) Hazelnut Stracciatella Gelato MAKES ABOUT 1 QUART.

The secret to the deep hazelnut flavor of this gelato is slow-roasting the nuts until they are a dark golden brown and deliciously aromatic.

2 cups (about 9 ounces) unblanched hazelnuts 3 cups milk, plus more as needed 1 cups sugar 1 cup heavy cream 10 large egg yolks 1 teaspoon salt 8 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped Preheat the oven to 350F.

Spread the hazelnuts on a baking sheet and roast for 25 to 30 minutes, until their skins are very dark brown and the nuts are deep golden brown (be brave!-toasting the hazelnuts to a deep brown is what gives this gelato its intense flavor).

Just before the nuts are done, bring the milk just to a simmer in a large heavy-bottomed saucepan. Remove from the heat and set aside.

Remove the nuts from the oven and grind them to a powder in a food processor while they are still hot; be careful not to grind them to a paste. Stir the ground nuts into the hot milk, cover, and set aside to steep for 45 minutes.

Strain the milk through a fine-mesh strainer into a bowl (discard the nuts). Measure the milk and add more if necessary to make 3 cups, then return it to the saucepan. Stir in 1 cup of the sugar, add the cream, and bring just to a simmer over medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar.

Meanwhile, whisk the egg yolks, the remaining cup sugar, and the salt together in a medium heatproof bowl. Gradually whisk in about 1 cup of the hot milk mixture until smooth, then return the mixture to the saucepan and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly with a heatproof spatula or a wooden spoon, until the custard registers 185F on an instant-read thermometer.

Immediately strain the custard though a fine-mesh strainer into a heatproof bowl and chill over an ice bath, stirring occasionally, until cold. Cover and refrigerate for at least 6 hours, or, preferably, overnight.

Freeze the gelato in an ice cream maker according to the manufacturer"s instructions. Chill a large stainless steel bowl in the freezer.

Just before the gelato is ready, melt the chocolate in a heatproof bowl set over a saucepan of hot water, stirring occasionally until smooth. Remove from the heat and let cool slightly.

Transfer the gelato to the chilled bowl. Working quickly, dip a fork or a small whisk in the melted chocolate and drizzle it over the gelato, stirring it in as you go to make swirls and ribbons; continue until you have used all the chocolate. Pack into a freezer container and freeze for at least 1 hour before serving. (The gelato is best served the day it is made.) (The gelato is best served the day it is made.)

Ricotta Gelato MAKES ABOUT 1 QUART.

This style of gelato is more common in southern Italy-it contains no eggs, using cornstarch instead as a thickener. It has a firmer and less unctuous mouthfeel that somehow makes sense in the hotter climate. We use goat"s-milk ricotta, but you can subst.i.tute any other type of ricotta.

3 cups milk cup sugar cup corn syrup 2 tablespoons honey Grated zest of lemon 3 tablespoons cornstarch 1 cup goat"s-milk ricotta or other ricotta, preferably fresh Combine 3 cups of the milk, the sugar, corn syrup, honey, and lemon zest in a large heavy-bottomed saucepan and bring just to a simmer over medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar.

Meanwhile, whisk the cornstarch and the remaining cup milk together in a medium heatproof bowl until smooth. Gradually whisk in about 1 cup of the hot milk mixture until smooth, then return the mixture to the saucepan and cook, stirring constantly with a heatproof spatula or a wooden spoon, until the mixture begins to bubble around the edges and steam rises from the surface. Strain the mixture through a fine-mesh strainer into a large heatproof bowl and chill over an ice bath, stirring occasionally, until cold.

Using an immersion blender, gradually mix the ricotta into the milk mixture. Or combine the mixture and ricotta in a regular blender, in batches if necessary, and blend well. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer into another bowl and chill in the refrigerator for at least 6 hours or, preferably, overnight.

Freeze the gelato in an ice cream maker according to the manufacturer"s instructions. Pack into a freezer container and freeze for at least 1 hour before serving. (The gelato is best served the day it is made.) (The gelato is best served the day it is made.)

Olive Oil Gelato MAKES ABOUT 1 QUARTS.

Choose an olive oil that tastes really good for this gelato. We like to use a peppery oil, which is balanced by the richness of the eggs and cream. This recipe makes a lot of gelato; feel free to halve it.

3 cups milk 1 cup heavy cream vanilla bean, split, or 1 teaspoons vanilla extract 1 cup sugar 10 large egg yolks 1 teaspoon salt cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling Maldon or other flaky sea salt Combine the milk and cream in a large heavy-bottomed saucepan and bring just to a simmer over medium heat. Remove from the heat.

If using a vanilla bean, sc.r.a.pe the seeds from the bean with a paring knife and add the seeds to the hot milk. Cover and let steep for 30 minutes.

Add cup of the sugar to the milk and bring just to a simmer over medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar.