MAKES A GENEROUS CUP.

2 cups blackberries cup water 1/3 cup sugar cup sugar 2 fresh thyme springs 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice Combine the blackberries, water, sugar, and thyme in a small saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the berries have fallen apart, about 20 minutes.

Strain the sauce through a fine-mesh strainer into a bowl, pressing on the solids to extract as much liquid as possible. Stir in the lemon juice. Let cool, then chill in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours; the sauce will thicken as it cools. (The sauce can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.) (The sauce can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.)

POLENTA CAKE.

MAKES ONE 9-BY-13-INCH CAKE.

This delicious, moist cake is made with brown b.u.t.ter, which can be made up to a week ahead of time, stored in the refrigerator, and then remelted for the recipe.

pound plus 2 tablespoons (9 ounces) unsalted b.u.t.ter cup plus 2 tablespoons almond flour or 2 2/3 cup blanched whole almonds cup blanched whole almonds 2 cups confectioners" sugar cup plus 1 teaspoon cake flour Scant cup coa.r.s.e cornmeal 7 large egg whites teaspoon salt Finely chopped zest of 1 lemon Preheat the oven to 375F. b.u.t.ter and flour a 9-by-13-inch baking pan.

Melt the b.u.t.ter in a small heavy saucepan over medium heat and continue to cook until the b.u.t.ter is an amber brown (use a ladle or spoon to check the color of the liquid b.u.t.ter); do not stir-you want the milk solids in the b.u.t.ter to fall to the bottom of the pan and brown, flavoring the b.u.t.ter as it cooks. Strain the b.u.t.ter through a fine-mesh strainer into a bowl; discard the solids. (You will have about cup plus 2 tablespoons brown b.u.t.ter.) Set aside to cool.

If using whole almonds, combine them with about 1 cup of the confectioners" sugar in a food processor and grind to a powder.

Sift the (remaining) confectioners" sugar, the almond flour (or ground almond mixture), cake flour, and cornmeal together.

Beat the egg whites and salt with an electric mixer in a large bowl until the whites hold stiff peaks. Gradually fold in the dry ingredients, making sure that they are completely incorporated. Fold in the cooled brown b.u.t.ter and the lemon zest.

Sc.r.a.pe the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the top. Bake for 20 to 23 minutes, or until the cake is golden brown and beginning to pull away from the sides of the pan. Cool in the pan on a rack for 10 minutes, then invert the cake onto the rack and cool completely.

For the coppetta, cut enough of the cake into approximate -inch cubes to make about 1 cups. There will be extra cake-a great bonus! It keeps well, covered tightly, at room temperature.

COLD WHIPPED ZABAGLIONE.

MAKES 2 CUPS.

It is important to have the right equipment for zabaglione, and you should have everything ready before you start. You"ll need a large metal bowl that fits snugly over a medium saucepan and another bowl for an ice bath, as well as a whisk and a small bowl for whipping the cream.

cup heavy cream 3 large egg yolks 3 tablespoons sugar cup Moscato d"Asti (sweet Italian dessert wine) 2 tablespoons fresh orange juice Whisk the cream in a small bowl until thickened; the whisk should just leave a trail in the cream. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

Bring about 1 inch of water to a boil in a medium saucepan, then reduce the heat so the water is just simmering. Whisk the egg yolks, sugar, Moscato, and orange juice together in a metal bowl that will fit snugly over the saucepan. Set the bowl over the pan (the bottom of the bowl should not touch the water) and whisk until the mixture is thick and creamy and holds a soft shape, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove the bowl from the heat, set over an ice bath, and whisk until the mixture is cool.

Fold in the whipped cream, and serve immediately.

Caramel Coppetta SERVES 6 PHOTO GELATO & SORBETTO.

Caramel, chocolate, and bananas are a time-tested combination, and here the addition of rosemary adds an interesting savory counterpoint. It"s very subtle, just barely there, but it makes a big impression.

3 cups Caramel Gelato (Gelato & Sorbetto) Caramelized Bananas (recipe follows) Chocolate Rosemary Sauce (Gelato & Sorbetto) Mascarpone Crema (recipe follows) Pine Nut Brittle for garnish (recipe follows) Divide the gelato among six sundae gla.s.ses or bowls. Spoon the bananas over the gelato and drizzle with the chocolate sauce. Top each coppetta with mascarpone crema, and garnish with pine nut brittle.

CARAMELIZED BANANAS.

MAKES ABOUT CUP.

2 tablespoons water cup sugar 1 ripe banana, sliced into -inch rounds Combine the water and sugar in a small saute pan, stirring to moisten the sugar evenly. Cook over low heat, stirring, until the sugar has dissolved, then cook, without stirring, swirling the pan occasionally, until the caramel is a light golden brown.

Remove the pan from the heat and gently stir in the banana slices, coating them thoroughly. Return the pan to low heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until the bananas have softened and the caramel has darkened slightly. Remove from the heat and let cool slightly before serving. (The bananas can be made up to 1 day ahead and refrigerated; reheat over low heat before serving.) (The bananas can be made up to 1 day ahead and refrigerated; reheat over low heat before serving.)

PINE NUT BRITTLE.

MAKES ABOUT 1 POUNDS.

1 cups (7 ounces) pine nuts 1 tablespoons fresh rosemary leaves About 2 tablespoons canola or grapeseed oil or mild olive oil 1 cups sugar cup water cup corn syrup 3 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter teaspoon baking soda 1 teaspoon salt One 1-inch-thick lemon slice Preheat the oven to 350F.

Spread the pine nuts on a baking sheet and toast in the oven for 8 to 10 minutes, until lightly colored. Transfer to a plate and let cool, then toss with the rosemary.

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and grease the paper generously with the oil. Brush or rub an offset spatula or a wooden spoon with oil. Set aside.

Combine the sugar, water, corn syrup, and b.u.t.ter in a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Cook, without stirring, swirling the pan occasionally, until the caramel is golden brown, 8 to 10 minutes.

Remove the pan from the heat and whisk in the baking soda and salt. Using the offset spatula (or spoon), quickly stir in the nuts and rosemary until the nuts are thoroughly coated. Pour the mixture onto the parchment-lined baking sheet, then use the lemon slice to spread and flatten the brittle. Let cool completely.

Break or cut the brittle into small pieces. (Extra brittle keeps in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week.) (Extra brittle keeps in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week.)

MASCARPONE CREMA.

MAKES 2 CUPS.

8 ounces (1 cup) mascarpone cup heavy cream cup confectioners" sugar Combine the mascarpone and 2 tablespoons of the cream in a large bowl and beat with an electric mixer until thickened; take care not to overbeat the mascarpone, or the crema may look curdled.

Combine the remaining 6 tablespoons heavy cream and the confectioners" sugar in a medium bowl and beat until the cream holds stiff peaks. Fold the whipped cream into the mascarpone. Chill until ready to use. (The crema can be refrigerated for up to 2 days.) (The crema can be refrigerated for up to 2 days.) Ricotta Coppetta SERVES 6 PHOTO GELATO & SORBETTO.

Figs, red wine, and toasted walnuts all pair nicely with mild cheeses, so why not pair ricotta gelato with figs roasted in red wine and garnish with toasted walnuts? The lemon curd accentuates the tang of the ricotta. Meyer lemons have a unique perfume and are less acidic than regular lemons, but the recipe works well with ordinary lemons if Meyers are not available.

3 cups Ricotta Gelato (Gelato & Sorbetto) 2 cups Meyer Lemon Curd (recipe follows) Roasted Figs (recipe follows) Toasted walnuts (see Glossary) for garnish Divide the gelato among six sundae dishes or bowls. Spoon the lemon curd over the gelato, and top with the figs. Garnish with toasted walnuts.

MEYER LEMON CURD.

MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS.

8 Meyer lemons or 4 to 5 regular lemons 1 cup sugar 6 large eggs 6 large egg yolks 8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, cut into -inch cubes, at room temperature Grate the zest from 3 of the lemons, using a Microplane or other rasp grater. Juice enough of the lemons to make 1 cup.

Bring about an inch of water to a boil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Whisk the lemon zest, juice, sugar, eggs, and egg yolks together in a heatproof bowl that fits snugly over the saucepan. Set the bowl over the boiling water and cook, whisking constantly, until the mixture is thickened and the whisk leaves a track, 7 to 10 minutes.

Strain the mixture through a fine-mesh strainer into a heatproof bowl and stir vigorously to cool it slightly; it should be warm but not hot when you add the b.u.t.ter. Using an immersion blender or a small whisk, gradually add the b.u.t.ter, blending until completely smooth. Let cool, then refrigerate until cold. (The curd can be refrigerated for up to 1 week.) (The curd can be refrigerated for up to 1 week.) ROASTED FIGS.

MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP.