Chapter 20

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Strain the syrup through a fine-mesh strainer into a bowl. (The syrup can be refrigerated for up to 2 days.) (The syrup can be refrigerated for up to 2 days.) MACERATED STRAWBERRIES.

MAKES ABOUT 21/3 CUPS CUPS.

1 pint strawberries, preferably small berries, washed, hulled, and quartered 2 tablespoons sugar, or to taste teaspoon salt Combine the strawberries, sugar, and salt in a bowl and let stand for 30 minutes.

Taste the berries for sweetness, and add more sugar if necessary before serving.

Glossary AGRODOLCE This is a flavoring agent-the name translates as "sour-sweet"-we use to balance many dishes with a southern Italian or Sicilian background. We make it with equal parts red wine vinegar and sugar, and just a few drops will add a lot of flavor to anything this elixir touches. To make our agrodolce, combine cup red wine vinegar and cup sugar in a small saucepan and bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Remove from the heat and let cool. Store in a tightly sealed jar or other container in the refrigerator, where it will keep almost indefinitely. This is a flavoring agent-the name translates as "sour-sweet"-we use to balance many dishes with a southern Italian or Sicilian background. We make it with equal parts red wine vinegar and sugar, and just a few drops will add a lot of flavor to anything this elixir touches. To make our agrodolce, combine cup red wine vinegar and cup sugar in a small saucepan and bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Remove from the heat and let cool. Store in a tightly sealed jar or other container in the refrigerator, where it will keep almost indefinitely.

ALMONDS In Italy, you will find two varieties of almonds: bitter and sweet. Bitter almonds, which contain a toxic acid when raw, are used to make almond extract and amaretto. Only sweet almonds are available in the United States. They can be found raw or roasted, blanched (skinned) or unblanched, salted or not, and whole, sliced, or slivered. They can also be ground into almond flour or used to make almond paste. Almonds should be purchased in the sh.e.l.l if possible; otherwise, select those packed in tightly sealed jars, cans, or bags. In Italy, you will find two varieties of almonds: bitter and sweet. Bitter almonds, which contain a toxic acid when raw, are used to make almond extract and amaretto. Only sweet almonds are available in the United States. They can be found raw or roasted, blanched (skinned) or unblanched, salted or not, and whole, sliced, or slivered. They can also be ground into almond flour or used to make almond paste. Almonds should be purchased in the sh.e.l.l if possible; otherwise, select those packed in tightly sealed jars, cans, or bags.

ANCHOVIES These small flavorful fish from the Mediterranean and the southern Atlantic are eaten both fresh and preserved in salt or oil. In this country, we most often see the latter, flat or rolled fillets in oil, but the best anchovies are packed whole in salt. Salt-packed anchovies must be filleted, rinsed, and soaked in cold water before using. Boquerones are Spanish white anchovies, which have a milder flavor than most. We like the fillets that are marinated in oil and vinegar-look for them at specialty markets. These small flavorful fish from the Mediterranean and the southern Atlantic are eaten both fresh and preserved in salt or oil. In this country, we most often see the latter, flat or rolled fillets in oil, but the best anchovies are packed whole in salt. Salt-packed anchovies must be filleted, rinsed, and soaked in cold water before using. Boquerones are Spanish white anchovies, which have a milder flavor than most. We like the fillets that are marinated in oil and vinegar-look for them at specialty markets.

ARTICHOKES To trim artichokes, remove the tough outer layers of leaves from each artichoke by snapping them off until you reach the pale yellow inner leaves (the larger the artichoke, the more layers you will have to remove). Cut off the top third of the inner leaves with a sharp knife. As you work, rub the cut surfaces of the artichoke with a lemon half to prevent oxidation (browning). Trim off the bottom of the artichoke stem and, using a paring knife, remove the tough outer layer from the stem. Using a grapefruit spoon or small sharp spoon, sc.r.a.pe out the fuzzy choke from the center of the artichoke. Pull out the small purple leaves. Put the artichokes in a bowl of lemon water until ready to cook. To trim artichokes, remove the tough outer layers of leaves from each artichoke by snapping them off until you reach the pale yellow inner leaves (the larger the artichoke, the more layers you will have to remove). Cut off the top third of the inner leaves with a sharp knife. As you work, rub the cut surfaces of the artichoke with a lemon half to prevent oxidation (browning). Trim off the bottom of the artichoke stem and, using a paring knife, remove the tough outer layer from the stem. Using a grapefruit spoon or small sharp spoon, sc.r.a.pe out the fuzzy choke from the center of the artichoke. Pull out the small purple leaves. Put the artichokes in a bowl of lemon water until ready to cook.

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Or, if you will be serving the artichokes whole, simply cut off the top third of each one and trim off the stems so the artichokes will stand upright. As you work, rub the cut surfaces with a lemon half to prevent oxidation. Pull off the smaller leaves around the bottom of each artichoke. Put the artichokes in a bowl of lemon water until ready to cook.

ARUGULA Also known as rucola, its Italian name, or rocket, arugula has long narrow leaves and a pleasing bite. Its flavor varies with both type and the season, so some bunches will be more pungent than others. There are several types you are likely to see in the market; I like them all. Some varieties have big thick leaves, others have smaller, more delicate leaves. Wild arugula has narrow leaves and a sharper taste. Baby arugula, with a delicate flavor, is becoming increasingly available. Arugula is quite perishable; store it wrapped in a damp paper towel in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for no more than a day or two. Also known as rucola, its Italian name, or rocket, arugula has long narrow leaves and a pleasing bite. Its flavor varies with both type and the season, so some bunches will be more pungent than others. There are several types you are likely to see in the market; I like them all. Some varieties have big thick leaves, others have smaller, more delicate leaves. Wild arugula has narrow leaves and a sharper taste. Baby arugula, with a delicate flavor, is becoming increasingly available. Arugula is quite perishable; store it wrapped in a damp paper towel in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for no more than a day or two.

BALSAMIC VINEGAR Real balsamic is a deep, intensely flavorful vinegar made exclusively in Emilia-Romagna from the unfermented juice of white Trebbiano grapes. The freshly pressed juice is cooked slowly overnight in copper cauldrons over open fires right in the vineyard, to form a thick syrup called mosto or saba. The mosto is put into giant wooden barrels and then aged in a series of successively smaller barrels of different woods over a period of 12 years or more to achieve balsamic vinegar"s unique and complex flavor. The finished product must be submitted to a consortium for tasting, and if it is approved, it is poured into bottles whose shapes indicate the place of origin, either Modena or Reggio-the only two areas that can legitimately produce the real thing. True aceto balsamico tradizionale will cost you at least fifty dollars for a four-ounce bottle and should be used to dress salads only if you own the joint. The supermarket stuff sold in tall green bottles for $3.99 contains caramel coloring and is a pale imitation of the true thing. It"s fine for a change of pace in the salad dressing department but unacceptable in the realm of anointing perfect meats or a chunk of Parmigiano-Reggiano, where you want the real thing. Real balsamic is a deep, intensely flavorful vinegar made exclusively in Emilia-Romagna from the unfermented juice of white Trebbiano grapes. The freshly pressed juice is cooked slowly overnight in copper cauldrons over open fires right in the vineyard, to form a thick syrup called mosto or saba. The mosto is put into giant wooden barrels and then aged in a series of successively smaller barrels of different woods over a period of 12 years or more to achieve balsamic vinegar"s unique and complex flavor. The finished product must be submitted to a consortium for tasting, and if it is approved, it is poured into bottles whose shapes indicate the place of origin, either Modena or Reggio-the only two areas that can legitimately produce the real thing. True aceto balsamico tradizionale will cost you at least fifty dollars for a four-ounce bottle and should be used to dress salads only if you own the joint. The supermarket stuff sold in tall green bottles for $3.99 contains caramel coloring and is a pale imitation of the true thing. It"s fine for a change of pace in the salad dressing department but unacceptable in the realm of anointing perfect meats or a chunk of Parmigiano-Reggiano, where you want the real thing.

BLACK PEPPER Some of the recipes in this book call for a large amount of pepper. Even if you often use a spice (or coffee) grinder for spices like c.u.min or fennel seeds, you may never have thought of grinding pepper this way. The spice grinder seems to release even more of the fragrant oils, and it"s quick and easy when you need a lot of ground pepper. Pepper should always be freshly ground, whether in a pepper mill or a spice grinder, so it"s best to grind just amount the recipe calls for (though if you do have a bit left over, you can store it in a tightly sealed jar to use within a day or so). Some of the recipes in this book call for a large amount of pepper. Even if you often use a spice (or coffee) grinder for spices like c.u.min or fennel seeds, you may never have thought of grinding pepper this way. The spice grinder seems to release even more of the fragrant oils, and it"s quick and easy when you need a lot of ground pepper. Pepper should always be freshly ground, whether in a pepper mill or a spice grinder, so it"s best to grind just amount the recipe calls for (though if you do have a bit left over, you can store it in a tightly sealed jar to use within a day or so).

BOTTARGA Once known as the poor man"s caviar, bottarga is the salted, pressed, and dried roe of either gray mullet (mugine) or tuna (tonno). In Sicily and Sardinia, the tradition of preserving seafood is well maintained to this day. There the long, fat roe sacs are salted and ma.s.saged by hand over a period of several weeks to preserve them. Then the roe is pressed under wooden planks weighted with stones and sun-dried for one to two months. Once known as the poor man"s caviar, bottarga is the salted, pressed, and dried roe of either gray mullet (mugine) or tuna (tonno). In Sicily and Sardinia, the tradition of preserving seafood is well maintained to this day. There the long, fat roe sacs are salted and ma.s.saged by hand over a period of several weeks to preserve them. Then the roe is pressed under wooden planks weighted with stones and sun-dried for one to two months.

Both types are salty, but tuna bottarga has a lively, sharp flavor, stronger than mullet bottarga. Bottarga can be shaved, sliced, chopped, or grated, and just a little can add a lot of flavor to a whole range of dishes. I love a salad of bitter greens dressed with fresh orange juice, extra-virgin olive oil, and shaved bottarga. Keep bottarga tightly wrapped in the freezer.

BREAD CRUMBS We use bread crumbs in various forms in many dishes at our restaurants, both for coating ingredients before sauteing or frying them and in stuffings for vegetables, meat, fish, and poultry. They also make a nice crust when browned atop a dish or toasted, and we often finish a pasta dish with a sprinkling of crumbs toasted in olive oil. We use bread crumbs in various forms in many dishes at our restaurants, both for coating ingredients before sauteing or frying them and in stuffings for vegetables, meat, fish, and poultry. They also make a nice crust when browned atop a dish or toasted, and we often finish a pasta dish with a sprinkling of crumbs toasted in olive oil.

To make fresh bread crumbs, just grind chunks or torn slices of bread to the desired size in a food processor. We use both finer crumbs and "fat boys"-crumbs that are about inch in size, which we usually toast, sometimes in a little oil.

To toast fresh bread crumbs, spread them on a baking sheet and bake in a 300F oven for 12 to 15 minutes, stirring frequently, until golden brown.

To toast fresh bread crumbs in olive oil, heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large saute pan over medium heat until hot. Add cup coa.r.s.e fresh bread crumbs and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden brown. Transfer to a plate and let cool.

To make dried bread crumbs, thoroughly dry chunks or slices of fresh bread (don"t use stale bread) in a 250F oven, then break them up and process to crumbs of the desired size. Ready-made bread crumbs are available in the bakery department of some grocery stores and at specialty markets. The bread crumbs sold in canisters are unacceptable.

CAPERS/CAPER BERRIES Capers are the flower buds of a creeping shrub called Cappari spinosa that resembles something from an exotic nursery. During their very short season, the unopened flower buds are picked daily just before they open. Capers may be preserved in a vinegary brine or in salt. Packed in brine, they will lose much of their subtle flavor, but they will add a lot of magnificent acidity to your dish as a result of the formation of capric acid. I prefer capers packed in salt, which retain a sweet forest-floor flavor as well as the more subtle sea breeze scent that is lost in the pickling process. The best capers come from the island of Pantelleria, off the coast of Sicily. Capers are the flower buds of a creeping shrub called Cappari spinosa that resembles something from an exotic nursery. During their very short season, the unopened flower buds are picked daily just before they open. Capers may be preserved in a vinegary brine or in salt. Packed in brine, they will lose much of their subtle flavor, but they will add a lot of magnificent acidity to your dish as a result of the formation of capric acid. I prefer capers packed in salt, which retain a sweet forest-floor flavor as well as the more subtle sea breeze scent that is lost in the pickling process. The best capers come from the island of Pantelleria, off the coast of Sicily.

At the end of the season, the fruit of the caper bush develops into a drupe, or berry, that looks kind of like a small tomatillo. Sold pickled or salted, these make a great flourish for any dish with capers in it-and show off your super-savvy Mediterranean pantry.

CEPHALOPODS Octopus, like squid and cuttlefish, is a cephalopod, a cla.s.s of mollusks. Octopi can grow to as long as fifty feet, but the ones you will see in the market are from two to three feet long. Smaller octopus is usually the most tender, but even so, it must be tenderized (see below). Baby octopus, no larger than two to three inches, are increasingly available, and they are very tender. An octopus has eight tentacles, and both the tentacles and body are edible. Like squid, octopi have ink sacs, which, in the wild, can be used to create a liquid smoke screen to hide the octopus from its foe. In the kitchen, the ink can be used to color risotto or pasta. Octopus, like squid and cuttlefish, is a cephalopod, a cla.s.s of mollusks. Octopi can grow to as long as fifty feet, but the ones you will see in the market are from two to three feet long. Smaller octopus is usually the most tender, but even so, it must be tenderized (see below). Baby octopus, no larger than two to three inches, are increasingly available, and they are very tender. An octopus has eight tentacles, and both the tentacles and body are edible. Like squid, octopi have ink sacs, which, in the wild, can be used to create a liquid smoke screen to hide the octopus from its foe. In the kitchen, the ink can be used to color risotto or pasta.

Many fish markets sell octopus already cleaned, or you can ask the fishmonger to do it for you. Frozen octopus is fine-in fact, freezing helps tenderize it.

Many cooks dismiss octopus as rubbery, an unfortunate reputation bolstered by images of rugged fishermen squatting on the rocks by the sea and flailing away at the poor creatures. I"ve tried beating them with mallets, puncturing them all over with a fork, and marinating them with an acidic ingredient, but what really makes octopus tender is a wine cork. Cooking the octopus at a low boil with a cork in the water results in edible flesh in much less time, with much less of the toughness a.s.sociated with OPC (other people"s cephalopods). I"ve heard this is the result of an enzymatic reaction between something in the cork and the protein in the flesh, but beyond that I cannot say.

Calamari, or squid, can grow to as long as ninety feet, but the ones in the market are usually about six to eight inches long. They have ten tentacles, and both the bodies and tentacles are eaten. Most fish markets now sell cleaned calamari. You can buy either bodies or tentacles, or a combination, depending on the recipe.

Calamari must be cooked either quickly or for a long time-nothing in between, or it will be disappointingly tough. Cook it for just a few minutes, or braise or stew it for 45 minutes or so. Squid ink can be used to color risotto or pasta.

Cuttlefish is related to squid, but its body is more oval and squat and the tentacles are shorter. From Mediterranean waters, cuttlefish are much more common in Italy than they are here, but you may be able to get them, fresh or frozen, at a good fish market. The ones in the market are about six to ten inches long, and they must be tenderized like octopus (see above). Cuttlefish also have inc sacs, though their ink is brown rather than black (the Italian name for cuttlefish is seppia, the origin of our word sepia); it can be used in cooking the same way as squid ink.

CHICKPEAS Also called ceci beans or garbanzos, these legumes, Cicer arietinum, are usually sold dried or canned. Like most dried beans, they must be soaked before cooking. Chickpea flour, ground from dried beans, is the main ingredient in Also called ceci beans or garbanzos, these legumes, Cicer arietinum, are usually sold dried or canned. Like most dried beans, they must be soaked before cooking. Chickpea flour, ground from dried beans, is the main ingredient in panissa, panissa, a flat pancake served as both antipasto and bread in Liguria, and in the Sicilian a flat pancake served as both antipasto and bread in Liguria, and in the Sicilian panelle. panelle. Always buy dried beans from a market with a good turnover; the older they are, the harder they are to get just right when cooking. Good-quality canned chickpeas are available in most supermarkets. Always buy dried beans from a market with a good turnover; the older they are, the harder they are to get just right when cooking. Good-quality canned chickpeas are available in most supermarkets.

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CITRUS ZEST Citrus zest refers to just the colored part of the peel of lemons and other citrus fruits, with none of the bitter underlying white pith. The easiest way to grate citrus zest is to use a Microplane rasp grater. A citrus zester is a small kitchen tool that removes the zest in thin strips; you can also remove the zest in strips using a vegetable peeler or sharp paring knife (be sure to remove any of the white pith from the strips), depending on how you will be using it. Citrus zest refers to just the colored part of the peel of lemons and other citrus fruits, with none of the bitter underlying white pith. The easiest way to grate citrus zest is to use a Microplane rasp grater. A citrus zester is a small kitchen tool that removes the zest in thin strips; you can also remove the zest in strips using a vegetable peeler or sharp paring knife (be sure to remove any of the white pith from the strips), depending on how you will be using it.

FENNEL POLLEN Fennel pollen tastes like fennel seeds, only more so. It"s a "secret ingredient" in Tuscan cooking, where it is used in cured meats and to season fish, chicken, and, especially, pork. Fennel pollen is harvested from wild fennel plants just as they begin to bloom, and it will transform almost anything you sprinkle it over. It"s available in some specialty markets and can be ordered online (see Sources). Fennel pollen tastes like fennel seeds, only more so. It"s a "secret ingredient" in Tuscan cooking, where it is used in cured meats and to season fish, chicken, and, especially, pork. Fennel pollen is harvested from wild fennel plants just as they begin to bloom, and it will transform almost anything you sprinkle it over. It"s available in some specialty markets and can be ordered online (see Sources).

FREGULA Fregula, also spelled fregola, is a small round Sardinian pasta made from durum semolina. It was traditionally formed into tiny b.a.l.l.s by hand, then dried and toasted; today it is commercially produced. Fregula is sometimes referred to as Sardinian couscous, but it"s more flavorful and is slightly chewy. Fregula is available at some Italian markets and can be ordered online (see Sources). Fregula, also spelled fregola, is a small round Sardinian pasta made from durum semolina. It was traditionally formed into tiny b.a.l.l.s by hand, then dried and toasted; today it is commercially produced. Fregula is sometimes referred to as Sardinian couscous, but it"s more flavorful and is slightly chewy. Fregula is available at some Italian markets and can be ordered online (see Sources).

GORGONZOLA This famous Italian blue cheese, named for the small town in Lombardy where it originated, is made from cow"s milk that is inoculated with the Penicillium gorgonzola mold to produce the characteristic blue-green striations. Originally the mold was produced naturally by aging the cheese in damp caves where the mold grew, but today the cheese is injected with the mold and then aged for three to six months. Gorgonzola is sometimes referred to as This famous Italian blue cheese, named for the small town in Lombardy where it originated, is made from cow"s milk that is inoculated with the Penicillium gorgonzola mold to produce the characteristic blue-green striations. Originally the mold was produced naturally by aging the cheese in damp caves where the mold grew, but today the cheese is injected with the mold and then aged for three to six months. Gorgonzola is sometimes referred to as erborinato, erborinato, "herbed" in Lombard dialect, because of its greenish striations. There are two types of Gorgonzola: dolce (meaning "sweet") is creamy and mild; naturale is aged longer, is firmer, and has a more pungent bite. "herbed" in Lombard dialect, because of its greenish striations. There are two types of Gorgonzola: dolce (meaning "sweet") is creamy and mild; naturale is aged longer, is firmer, and has a more pungent bite.

MICROPLANE GRATER The Microplane is a rasp grater that has made the task of zesting citrus fruit immeasurably less tedious. There are now many different versions of the original Microplane (and other brands as well); the basic cheese grater/zester is versatile enough for most jobs. Less clunky than a box grater and decidedly s.e.xier, the rasp gives you more control in finishing a dish with Parmigiano or another cheese. We often use a Microplane to shave bottarga over a dish. The Microplane is a rasp grater that has made the task of zesting citrus fruit immeasurably less tedious. There are now many different versions of the original Microplane (and other brands as well); the basic cheese grater/zester is versatile enough for most jobs. Less clunky than a box grater and decidedly s.e.xier, the rasp gives you more control in finishing a dish with Parmigiano or another cheese. We often use a Microplane to shave bottarga over a dish.

MOSTARDA Mostarda di Cremona, also called mostarda di frutta, is a condiment made of fruits preserved in a thick sweet syrup that is seasoned aggressively with ground mustard seed and other spices. It is a cla.s.sic accompaniment to boiled meats in Lombardy and other parts of northern Italy. Mostarda can be found in Italian specialty markets or ordered online (see Sources)-and see our recipe for apricot mostarda on Bruschetta & Cheese. Mostarda di Cremona, also called mostarda di frutta, is a condiment made of fruits preserved in a thick sweet syrup that is seasoned aggressively with ground mustard seed and other spices. It is a cla.s.sic accompaniment to boiled meats in Lombardy and other parts of northern Italy. Mostarda can be found in Italian specialty markets or ordered online (see Sources)-and see our recipe for apricot mostarda on Bruschetta & Cheese.

MOZZARELLA Mozzarella is what is known as a pulled-curd cheese, Mozzarella is what is known as a pulled-curd cheese, pasta filata pasta filata in Italian, because of the way it is made: big blocks of curd from either buffalo or cow"s milk are cut into smaller pieces and soaked in hot water until the curd releases its liquid, the whey. Then the curd is kneaded by hand and stretched until it has reached the proper consistency. At exactly the right moment, the cheesemaker shapes the cheese by ripping off pieces (a technique known as mozzando, from the verb mozzare-thus mozzarella) and forming them into large or small b.a.l.l.s. The smaller b.a.l.l.s are called bocconcini or, sometimes, ciliegini, meaning "little cherries." Stretching and pulling the curd gives the cheese its characteristic slightly stringy consistency, resulting from the many layers that comprise the final product. Originally produced almost exclusively in Campania and Sicily, mozzarella di bufalo is protected under D.O.P. regulations; today it is also made in Basilicata and Calabria. Buffalo mozzarella has more flavor than mozzarella made with cow"s milk; it is sweet with a slight tang and a creamy, milky bite. It is an essential part of the wood-fired pizze of Naples, and it is often served on its own, accompanied by a slice of grilled bread (bruschetta) and perhaps a simple salad. That said, some artisa.n.a.l producers today are using cow"s milk for their mozzarella, with slightly different but very good results. Fresh mozzarella may be salted or unsalted; it can also be smoked. Look for fresh mozzarella at an Italian or cheese market; avoid at all costs the rubbery slabs of domestic mozzarella in the supermarket. in Italian, because of the way it is made: big blocks of curd from either buffalo or cow"s milk are cut into smaller pieces and soaked in hot water until the curd releases its liquid, the whey. Then the curd is kneaded by hand and stretched until it has reached the proper consistency. At exactly the right moment, the cheesemaker shapes the cheese by ripping off pieces (a technique known as mozzando, from the verb mozzare-thus mozzarella) and forming them into large or small b.a.l.l.s. The smaller b.a.l.l.s are called bocconcini or, sometimes, ciliegini, meaning "little cherries." Stretching and pulling the curd gives the cheese its characteristic slightly stringy consistency, resulting from the many layers that comprise the final product. Originally produced almost exclusively in Campania and Sicily, mozzarella di bufalo is protected under D.O.P. regulations; today it is also made in Basilicata and Calabria. Buffalo mozzarella has more flavor than mozzarella made with cow"s milk; it is sweet with a slight tang and a creamy, milky bite. It is an essential part of the wood-fired pizze of Naples, and it is often served on its own, accompanied by a slice of grilled bread (bruschetta) and perhaps a simple salad. That said, some artisa.n.a.l producers today are using cow"s milk for their mozzarella, with slightly different but very good results. Fresh mozzarella may be salted or unsalted; it can also be smoked. Look for fresh mozzarella at an Italian or cheese market; avoid at all costs the rubbery slabs of domestic mozzarella in the supermarket.

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