Zach"s Escarole Salad SERVES 6 PHOTO INSALATA.

2 heads escarole, tough outer green leaves removed, remaining leaves torn into bite-sized pieces 5 sunchokes, scrubbed and thinly sliced cup blanched whole almonds, toasted (see Glossary) and ground or finely chopped cup coa.r.s.ely grated Tuscan caciotta or cacio di Roma 6 tablespoons Lemon Vinaigrette (Vegetable Antipasti) Maldon or other flaky salt and coa.r.s.ely ground black pepper Soak the escarole in a bowl of cool water for 10 minutes to crisp it. Drain and spin dry.

Combine the sunchokes, almonds, and cheese in a large bowl, tossing to mix. Add the escarole, tossing gently. Drizzle with half the vinaigrette, tossing to coat. Season with salt and pepper.

Transfer the salad to a serving bowl and serve with the remaining vinaigrette on the side.

Beet Salad with Robiola SERVES 6 PHOTO INSALATA.

2 large bunches beets with greens 1 tablespoon olive oil cup beet juice (from a health food store) cup Red Wine Vinaigrette (Vegetable Antipasti) Maldon or other flaky sea salt 6 ounces creamy robiola (robiola di Piemonte) (robiola di Piemonte) Preheat the oven to 400F.

Cut off the beet greens and reserve half of them. Cut enough of the stems into -inch slices to make cup. Scrub the beets, toss with the olive oil, and spread in a baking pan. Roast until tender, 50 to 60 minutes. Let cool slightly, then rub off the skins.

Meanwhile, bring the beet juice to a boil in a saucepan and boil until reduced to 2 tablespoons. Cool, then whisk in the vinaigrette.

Cut the beets into 1-inch chunks and transfer to a large bowl. Leave small beet greens whole; cut larger leaves into -inch-wide strips. Add the beet greens and stems to the beets and toss with enough vinaigrette to coat lightly. Season with salt. Transfer to a serving platter, dollop with the robiola, and serve.

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5.

PASTA.

The good news is that we have survived the low-carb pestilence, the monochromatic diet that seemed to work because Americans had become so carbohydrate-dependent that any reduction in carbs was a direct reduction in what they ate. And, of course, less food or fewer calories on a daily basis will usually result in weight loss. But the real answer to healthy weight maintenance is a combination of exercise and smart eating, something the Italians and other Europeans have done for centuries. Eating bad carbs makes no sense, while eating good carbs is an excellent way to enjoy a delicious and filling meal with less protein and fat. The key is to understand how much pasta to make and eat and how much of the corresponding sauce or condiment to serve with it. we have survived the low-carb pestilence, the monochromatic diet that seemed to work because Americans had become so carbohydrate-dependent that any reduction in carbs was a direct reduction in what they ate. And, of course, less food or fewer calories on a daily basis will usually result in weight loss. But the real answer to healthy weight maintenance is a combination of exercise and smart eating, something the Italians and other Europeans have done for centuries. Eating bad carbs makes no sense, while eating good carbs is an excellent way to enjoy a delicious and filling meal with less protein and fat. The key is to understand how much pasta to make and eat and how much of the corresponding sauce or condiment to serve with it.

As I have written a thousand times and said a million, the Italians eat their pasta quite al dente and sauced in a very light and minimal way. If there is ever a lot of extra sauce in the pan when you are about to plate the pasta, grab the pasta out of the pan with tongs, or use a slotted spoon, and leave the extra sauce behind. I think you will see that the dish feels lighter, tastes more balanced, and generally leaves you feeling a little cleaner. The idea that the toasted wheat flavor of the pasta itself is the dish is foreign to many Americans, but when you taste and appreciate the mouthfeel of a perfectly cooked and dressed pasta dish, you will know and understand forever why Italy is such a great place both physically and emotionally, as the Italian culture of the table is so well conceived and executed. This is never more evident than in the world of the myriad pastas from region to region.

The recipes in this chapter, which are disarmingly easy to shop for and prepare, more represent the actual pasta dishes Italians eat at home every day, often twice a day. None of them require fresh handmade pasta; we make them with high-quality dried pasta from Italy, pasta that is still extruded through traditional bronze dies to give the noodles a rougher "cat"s tongue" toothsome texture and quality. We love Barilla, De Cecco, Rustich.e.l.la d"Abruzzo, and Setaro best, but there are literally hundreds of good pastas available at all levels of pricing and in all shapes and sizes.

TEN MOST IMPORTANT PASTA COOKING TIPS.

Italians are pretty specific about how to cook and dress their noodles, and we urge you to adhere to our ten basic rules when cooking pasta.

* For each pound of pasta, use 6 quarts water and 3 tablespoons kosher salt. Don"t salt the water before it has come to a boil, or it will take longer to boil.

* Use well-crafted extra virgin olive oil. Consider the region, nuance, clarity, and weight of the oil when choosing one for a pasta dish. (See Glossary for our favorites.) * Never allow the oil to smoke. If necessary, remove the pan from the heat briefly.

* Never boil a sauce until you"ve added the pasta.

* The sauce should always be well integrated with the pasta, unctuous, as supple as silk, and h.o.m.ogenous.

* When finishing a pasta with a b.u.t.ter sauce, use cold b.u.t.ter for a better emulsion.

* For depth, freshness, and contrast, add fresh herbs or raw tomatoes after tossing the pasta with the sauce, and then finish with olive oil.

* Remove the pan of pasta and sauce from the heat before adding the cheese.

* Less is always more. It"s more important for the sauce and pasta to be one, a sum greater than its parts. Fat and cheese are not as important as water and balance.

* Always plate pasta with the thought of its performance on the table in a few minutes.

The dishes that follow may be seen in simple regional osterie or trattorie. They are rarely served in fancy-pants ristoranti, because they are perceived as home-cooking fare (with the occasional splurge or two, in the case of caviar and truffles). That is exactly why we serve them at Otto-we like to eat like this, and our kids do too.

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SPAGHETTI.

with b.u.t.ter or Garlic & Oil [image]

SPAGHETTI WITH.

Black & White Truffles [image]

Spaghetti with Caviar [image]

Spaghetti with Gla.s.s Eels [image]

Spaghetti alla Carbonara [image]

SPAGHETTI.

all"Amatriciana & alla Gricia [image]

Spaghetti con la Sarde

Spaghetti with Garlic & Oil SERVES 6 PHOTO PASTA.

Kosher salt 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 10 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes cup finely chopped fresh Italian parsley 1 pound spaghetti Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano for serving Bring 6 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot and add 3 tablespoons kosher salt.

Meanwhile, combine the olive oil and garlic in another large pot and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the garlic is just beginning to brown lightly, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in the red pepper flakes and parsley and remove from the heat.

Drop the pasta into the boiling water and cook until just al dente. Drain, reserving about cup of the pasta water.

Return the garlic oil to medium heat, add the pasta and cup of the reserved pasta water, and stir and toss over medium heat to coat the pasta well (add a splash or two more of the reserved pasta water if necessary to loosen the sauce). Serve immediately, with grated Parmigiano on the side.

Spaghetti with b.u.t.ter SERVES 6 PHOTO PASTA.

Kosher salt 1 pound spaghetti 6 tablespoons cold unsalted b.u.t.ter, cut into small chunks Coa.r.s.ely ground black pepper Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano for serving Bring 6 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot and add 3 tablespoons kosher salt. Drop the pasta into the boiling water and cook just until al dente.

Drain the pasta, reserving cup of the pasta water. Pour the reserved pasta water into another large pot and bring just to a boil. Reduce the heat and whisk in the b.u.t.ter bit by bit, without letting it melt completely, until you have a light, creamy sauce. Add the pasta and stir and toss to coat well. Remove from the heat and season with pepper. Serve immediately, with grated Parmigiano on the side. cup of the pasta water. Pour the reserved pasta water into another large pot and bring just to a boil. Reduce the heat and whisk in the b.u.t.ter bit by bit, without letting it melt completely, until you have a light, creamy sauce. Add the pasta and stir and toss to coat well. Remove from the heat and season with pepper. Serve immediately, with grated Parmigiano on the side.

OUR FAVORITE OLIVE OILSITALIAN RIVIERAThese are delicate and light, with a gra.s.sy fragrance and less viscosity than the Tuscan oils.

Ceppo Antico Alex Nember Rosmarino Vittorio Ca.s.sini TUSCANYMore intensely "green" in color and flavor, these are more powerful players in any dish.

Tenuta di Capezzana La Mozza Frescobaldi Laudemio Castello di Ama Badia a Coltibuono Volpaia SICILYThese are potentially similar to Tuscan oils, but they are available fresher in late winter because of their January harvest schedule.

Trappitu Frantoi Cutrera Primo Olio Verde Geraci HEALDSBURG, CALIFORNIAThis is very much like a Tuscan oil-in fact, the olive trees came from Tuscany.

DaVero

Spaghetti with White Truffles SERVES 6 PHOTO PASTA.

Kosher salt 1 pound spaghetti 10 tablespoons (1 sticks) cold unsalted b.u.t.ter, cut into small chunks 2 ounces fresh white truffles Bring 6 quarts water to a boil in a large pot and add 3 tablespoons kosher salt. Drop in the pasta and cook until just al dente.

Drain the pasta, reserving 2/3 cup of the pasta water. Pour the reserved pasta water into another large pot, add the b.u.t.ter, and bring to a boil, whisking to emulsify the sauce. Add the pasta and stir and toss to coat well.

Transfer the pasta to a serving bowl, shave the truffles over it, and serve immediately.

Spaghetti with Black Truffles SERVES 6 PHOTO PASTA.

Kosher salt 10 tablespoons (1 sticks) unsalted b.u.t.ter 2 ounces canned sliced black truffles in oil, drained 1 pound spaghetti 2 ounces cacio di Roma, grated Bring 6 quarts water to a boil in a large pot and add 3 tablespoons kosher salt.

Meanwhile, melt the b.u.t.ter in another large pot over medium-high heat, and cook until the b.u.t.ter begins to brown and smell fragrant, about 2 minutes. Stir in the truffles and remove from the heat.

Drop the pasta into the boiling water and cook until just al dente. Drain, reserving about cup of the pasta water.