50 clams.

1 medium-sized onion.

6 oz. salt pork.

3 large potatoes.

1 teaspoonful salt.

1/2 teaspoonful pepper.

1 tablespoonful b.u.t.ter.

2 tablespoonfuls flour.

1 pint of milk or cream.

1 saltspoonful of mace.

1 saltspoonful of thyme.

3 ship crackers.

Put the clams, with their own liquor, into a saucepan on the fire. When they have boiled three minutes, remove the clams and return the liquor to the fire. Cut the pork into slices. Chop an onion and fry it with the pork until both are browned. Then stir in two tablespoonfuls of flour.

When the flour is cooked, add slowly the clam liquor, a dash of mace and thyme, and salt, if necessary; then add three parboiled potatoes cut into dice, and cook until the potatoes are tender. When ready to serve add a pint of milk or cream, the clams cut into pieces, and a quarter of a pound of broken ship crackers or any hard water cracker.

CHAPTER III

FISH

[Sidenote: Cooking.]

[Sidenote: Freshness.]

[Sidenote: Dressing.]

It is essential that fish should be perfectly fresh, thoroughly cleaned, and carefully cooked. If underdone it is not eatable; if cooked too long it loses flavor and becomes dry. The sooner it is cooked after being taken from the water, the better. When fresh, the eyes are bright, the gills red, the flesh firm and odorless. Ordinarily the fishman removes the scales and draws the fish before delivering it; but if not, this should be done at once, and the fish thoroughly washed, but not allowed to soak in water, then wiped dry and put into the refrigerator, on the ice, the skin side down, but not in the same compartment with b.u.t.ter, milk, or other foods which absorb flavors.

[Sidenote: Keeping Frozen Fish.]

Fish that are frozen should be laid in cold water until thawed, but not allowed to remain in the water after they become flexible.

[Sidenote: Tr.i.m.m.i.n.g.]

The head and tail should be left on, and the fins trimmed, of any fish which is to be served whole.

[Sidenote: The bones.]

When the fillets only are to be used, the head and bones may be used for a fish soup.

[Sidenote: To skin, bone, and remove the fillets.]

To separate a fish, cut through the skin all around, then, beginning at the head, loosen the skin and strip it down. By putting salt on the hand a firmer grasp may be obtained, and with the aid of a knife the skin can be removed without tearing the flesh. After the skin is taken off from both sides, slip the knife under the flesh, and keeping it close to the bone, remove the fillets. The fillets may then be cut into two or more pieces according to the size of the fish, care being used to have them of uniform size and shape.

Fillets taken from small fish and from flounders or other flat fish are sometimes rolled and held until cooked with small skewers. Wooden toothpicks serve this purpose very well.

Fish containing many bones are not suitable for fillets.

TO CARVE FISH

Run a knife down the back, cutting through the skin. Remove the fins. Then cut into even pieces on one side. When these pieces are served, remove the bone, and cut the under side in the same way.

TO BOIL FISH

Add one teaspoonful of salt and one tablespoonful of vinegar to every two quarts of water, and use sufficient water to entirely cover the fish. The salt and vinegar serve to whiten and harden, as well as to season the meat. A bay-leaf and soup vegetables in the water improve the flavor of cod and some other fish. The fish must not be put into cold water, as that extracts the flavor; nor into boiling water, as that breaks the skin and gives it a ragged appearance. Lower the fish gradually into warm water, let it come quickly to the boiling point, then draw to the side of the range, where it will simmer only, until done.

[Sidenote: Time.]

Allow ten minutes to the pound after the water has begun to simmer.

[Sidenote: The Kettle.]

A fish kettle, with strainer, is requisite for boiling a fish whole. A plate held in a piece of cheese cloth may be used for smaller pieces. When the fish is done the strainer should be lifted out carefully and placed across the kettle until the fish is well drained.

[Sidenote: To boil a fish whole.]

A boiled as well as a baked fish is more attractive served upright as if swimming. To hold it in this position, place a carrot inside the fish to give it roundness and stability, and prop it on both sides with pieces of carrot or turnip. The head must be wrapped with cord or a strip of cheese cloth to keep it from losing shape, and the whole held in position by strings going around the strainer (see ill.u.s.tration). If a fish is too large for the kettle, it may be cut into halves or thirds, and when cooked laid carefully together on the dish and garnishing placed over the cuts.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FISH PREPARED TO BOIL IN UPRIGHT POSITION. (SEE PAGE 114.)]

[Sidenote: Serving.]

Boiled fish is served on a napkin, and garnished with parsley. This may be so arranged as to conceal any defects.

[Sidenote: Garnishes.]

Slices of lemon, slices of hard-boiled eggs, chopped pickle, or capers may also be used for garnishing. Boiled potato b.a.l.l.s may be served on the same dish.

[Sidenote: Sauces.]

Boiled fish needs a rich white sauce. Drawn b.u.t.ter, egg, Hollandaise, or Bechamel sauces are generally used.

[Ill.u.s.tration: SLICES OF CODFISH BOILED OR SAUTeD AND RESTED AGAINST A WEDGE-SHAPED BREAD SUPPORT AND GARNISHED WITH BOILED OR FRIED POTATO b.a.l.l.s, WATER-CRESS, AND LEMON.]

FISH

=COURT BOUILLON=

Court bouillon is used for boiling fresh-water fish or others which are without much flavor. It may be prepared beforehand, and used several times, or the vegetables may be added at the time the fish is boiled.

Fry in 1 tablespoonful of b.u.t.ter, 1 chopped carrot, 1 chopped onion, 1 stalk of celery.