Boil rice with three times its quant.i.ty of water, and a little b.u.t.ter, until it is very soft; then mash or pound it in a mortar until it becomes a smooth, elastic paste. Press the paste into a plain b.u.t.tered mold or pan of the size desired for the socle, and place a weight on it so it will be compact and firm when cold. Unmold, and with a pointed knife, a turnip cut wedge-shape, and a b.u.t.ter-stamp, mold the sides to fancy form. Brush it over with yolk of egg, and place a moment in the oven to brown; or it may be ornamented the same as the hominy supports, with vegetables cut into fancy shapes. (See ill.u.s.trations.) If wanted for a ca.s.serole, scoop out carefully a hollow in the center, and fill with chicken or any creamed meat, or with vegetables.

=POTATO Ca.s.sEROLE=

To a quart of seasoned mashed potato add four or six egg yolks. Stir it over the fire to dry it well; then with the hands or a knife mold it into a hollow cylinder or into a cup-shaped form; brush it over with yolk of egg, and place it a moment in the oven to brown. Fill the center just before serving with any minced meat, or with birds, chops, sweetbreads, or any creamed dish. The ca.s.serole may also be formed by pressing the potato into a mold which opens (see ill.u.s.tration), or any mold with fluted or plain sides, which, when b.u.t.tered, will let the potato slip out; then egg and brown as before.

=A POTATO SUPPORT FOR HOT MEATS=

Add slowly to two cupfuls of well-mashed sweet or white potato, beating all the time over the fire, one cupful of hot milk, a tablespoonful of b.u.t.ter, one quarter of a teaspoonful of pepper, a teaspoonful of salt, and lastly, three beaten eggs. b.u.t.ter well a plain mold of the shape desired; sprinkle over it as many bread-crumbs as will stick to the b.u.t.ter; turn in the puree of potatoes, place the mold in a pan of water, and bake for thirty minutes. Turn the molded potato in the centre of a dish, and arrange chops or birds around and against it.

=CROUSTADES OF BREAD=

Take a loaf of bread two days old, which was baked in a round or a square tin; pare off the crust, and carve it with a sharp-pointed knife into vase or cup-shape. Fry it in hot fat to gold color. Paint the inside with white of egg to prevent its soaking up the sauce of the filling. Fill with mushrooms, chicken livers, creamed chicken or any salpicon. Do not put the filling in until ready to serve, and heat the croustade before adding it.

=ROLL CROUSTADES=

Cut off the tops of rolls, or of home-made biscuits of any size. Remove the crumb from the inside; b.u.t.ter the rolls inside and out, and set in the oven to brown. Fill with any creamed meat or salpicon.

CHAPTER XIV

CHAFING-DISH RECEIPTS

=CHAFING-DISH COOKING=

The chafing-dish, although a time-honored utensil, has recently had a renaissance. To-day it is not more valued for the convenience than for the fun of it. Amateurs and epicures alike find pleasure in brewing and stewing over the alcohol lamp; in preparing a luncheon dish, or a novelty for "tea;" but, best of all, at the midnight hour the chafing-dish does its best though most disastrous service, for matutinal headaches have been called the desserts, and just deserts of late suppers.

[Sidenote: Kind of chafing-dish to use.]

The chafing-dish with double pan (the lower one to hold hot water) is the preferable one, because dishes may be kept warm in the hot water, and also because articles cooked with milk are liable to burn if cooked directly over the flame.

For safety from fire and staining, the chafing-dish should stand on a large metal tray, and the lamp should not be filled too full. Wood alcohol, which is much cheaper than high-proof spirits, answers just as well the purpose of heating, but has an unpleasant odor.

[Sidenote: Russian bowls.]

The various articles to be used in the preparation of the dish should be put into Russian bowls, and the bowls placed on a j.a.panese tray. These bowls are of wood, and are made of all sizes. They do not break, they make no noise, and are ornamental: the last is a consideration which recommends them, other things being equal, where fancy work is being done. The preliminary preparation of the foods should be done in the kitchen, rather than before the party a.s.sembled to a.s.sist in the cooking operation with their advice, praise, and appet.i.te.

[Sidenote: Wooden spoons.]

Wooden spoons, which come in all sizes, are also desirable to use, as they do not become hot, do not scratch the dish, and are noiseless. Articles prepared in the chafing-dish are served directly from it, therefore garnishing has no part, but toast or croutons go well with most of the preparations, and these can be toasted or reheated on an asbestos pad placed over the flame. The water-pan containing hot water should be placed under the cooking-pan as soon as the flame is extinguished. It will keep the dish warm, and serve as a bain-marie (the utensil employed in large kitchens for keeping dishes hot until time for serving). Two chafing-dishes are almost a requisite where no other fire than the lamp is to be called upon, but with this _batterie de cuisine_ a supper can be easily and quickly prepared without one half of it spoiling while the other half is being made ready--the toast and hot water, for instance.

[Sidenote: Dishes suitable for chafing-dish.]

The dishes most suitable for chafing-dish cooking are stews, eggs, and cheese. Stews can be modified in a great variety of ways, the barbecue being a favorite one. The simplest way of cooking in a chafing-dish is to put a little b.u.t.ter in the dish, and when it bubbles add oysters, mushrooms or any article which makes its own liquor; this lacking, a little water or milk is added, and seasoning to taste.

Canned chicken, tongue, salmon, crabs, and shrimps make good dishes and are easily prepared. Paprica, a kind of red pepper, is especially good for use in chafing-dish cookery instead of cayenne.

=PANNED OYSTERS=

For twenty-five oysters, put in a chafing-dish one tablespoonful of b.u.t.ter. When it is melted, add the juice of half a lemon and one teaspoonful of chopped parsley. Then add the oysters, which should be well drained. Cook, stirring carefully, until they are plump and the gills a little frilled--no longer. Season with salt and pepper, and serve at once on toast. The oysters exude enough juice to soften the toast. Or let the b.u.t.ter brown in the chafing-dish, then add the oysters and cook until plump or the gills are curled. Then add a winegla.s.sful of sherry or Madeira. Season with salt and pepper and serve at once. When wine is used, omit the lemon and parsley, and do not season until after the wine is added, as wine augments the flavor of salt. Have ready some toasted bread and pour the oysters over it; or cut the toast into small squares, stir them into the oysters and serve directly from the chafing-dish.

=OYSTER STEW=

Put a tablespoonful of b.u.t.ter in the chafing-dish; add a heaping tablespoonful of flour, and cook a few minutes, stirring all the time so it will not color. Add a cupful of milk slowly and stir until it begins to thicken; then add the oyster liquor (have the liquor strained so it will be free from pieces of sh.e.l.l), and lastly the oysters; season with salt and pepper and a little celery salt if liked. As soon as the edges of the oysters curl they are done, and the cooking must be arrested, or they will become tough.

=CREAMED OYSTERS AND CLAMS=

See receipt for creamed clams (page 135). This receipt can easily be prepared in the chafing-dish. Also oysters a la Poulette given on page 133.

=BARBECUE OF FISH=

Marinate one pound of any cold boiled white fish in one tablespoonful of oil, one tablespoonful of vinegar, one slice of onion, pepper and salt.

Leave the fish in as large pieces as possible. Put in a chafing-dish three tablespoonfuls of tomato catsup, three tablespoonfuls of sherry, three tablespoonfuls of b.u.t.ter. Put the b.u.t.ter in first, and when melted add the catsup and wine and then the fish. Baste the fish with the liquor until it is thoroughly heated, and it is then ready to serve.

Thin slices of cooked cold beef, veal, or ham may also be cooked in this way.

=EGGS WITH TOMATOES=

Put into the chafing-dish a cupful of canned tomatoes, and cook until they begin to soften; then season with one tablespoonful of b.u.t.ter, salt and pepper to taste. Add two beaten eggs, and stir constantly until they begin to thicken. Then extinguish the flame, and the heat of the dish will be sufficient to complete the cooking. Stir constantly until they are of the consistency of scrambled eggs. Serve at once, or they will separate.

=TOMATOES AND RICE=

Put into a chafing-dish a half cupful of tomatoes; add a bay-leaf, a few drops of onion-juice, pepper and salt to taste. Let them cook until tender, then remove the bay-leaf and stir in as much boiled rice as can be well coated and moistened with the tomatoes. Serve with cracker biscuits.

=CREAMED DISHES=

(EGGS, CHICKEN, OR VEAL)

Use the double pan with water. Make a white sauce by putting in the chafing-dish one tablespoonful of b.u.t.ter; let it bubble, then stir in one tablespoonful of flour; let it cook a few minutes, but not brown; then add a cupful of milk slowly, stirring all the time until it is a little thickened. Season with pepper and salt. Lay in carefully thick slices of hard-boiled egg. As soon as they are heated, place them on slices of toast softened with hot water, and pour the thickened sauce over them. For chicken or meat, season the sauce with a few drops of onion-juice, a little chopped celery if convenient, salt, pepper, and paprica. Have the chicken in good-sized pieces, or meat in thin slices, and leave them in the sauce only long enough to become well heated; canned chicken or turkey may be used. Any kind of meat can be minced and used in this way, in which case the sauce should be made with half milk and half stock. If stock is not at hand extract of beef (one teaspoonful to a cupful of boiling water) may be subst.i.tuted. With chicken or oysters, the yolk of an egg is added just before it is removed, which makes it "a la poulette."

=DISHES a LA NEWBURG=

These are favorite chafing-dish preparations, and may be made of lobster, crabs, shrimps, soft-sh.e.l.led clams, chicken, or cold boiled halibut. Lobster: Take the meat of one boiled lobster, put it in a chafing-dish with a tablespoonful of b.u.t.ter, a teaspoonful of salt, a dash of cayenne or of paprica. Stir lightly with a fork for three minutes, or until the lobster is well heated; then add a winegla.s.sful of sherry or of Madeira, cook for another three minutes, and then add the beaten yolks of three eggs, diluted with a half pint of cream. Stir the mixture constantly for a minute, or just long enough to set the egg. If cooked too long it will curdle; serve at once. Prepare the dishes a la Newburg with a double pan. For soft-sh.e.l.l clams use only the soft half of the clam. For chicken use the white meat cut into inch squares. For halibut leave the pieces large, and break them as little as possible.