[Sidenote: Lemon sugar.]

Another way is to rub cut loaf-sugar against the peel of an orange or lemon. As the sugar breaks the oil sacs and absorbs the zest, sc.r.a.pe it off, dry, and pa.s.s it through a fine sieve.

[Sidenote: Rose sugar.]

Make the same as orange sugar, using two cupfuls of dried rose leaves to one of sugar.

[Sidenote: Orange and lemon syrups.]

Orange and lemon syrups are made by pounding the thin yellow rinds with a little tepid water to a pulp, then adding it to cold syrup at 32 (see page 513), and letting it infuse for an hour or more. Strain and keep in air-tight jars.

[Sidenote: Pistachio flavor.]

Pistachio flavor can be obtained, when it is not convenient to use the nuts, by first flavoring with orange-flower water, then adding a very little essence of bitter almond.

A peach leaf, infused with milk when it is scalded for custard, will give the flavor of noyau.

[Sidenote: Caramel.]

Caramel (see page 78). This gives a very delicate and agreeable flavor to custards, cream and ices.

[Sidenote: Preserved orange and lemon peel.]

Candied orange and lemon peel cut into shreds is good in custards and cakes. To prepare it, boil the peel in water until tender, then in sugar and water until clear; let it stand in the syrup several hours, then drain and dry. It will keep indefinitely in a closed jar.

COLORING

Vegetable coloring pastes, which are entirely harmless, can be obtained for twenty-five cents a bottle. The green and the red, or carmine, are the colors generally used for icings, creams and jellies. The orange is used for orange-cake icing and candies. Very little should be used, as the colors should be delicate. To guard against using too much it is well to dilute it with a little water and add only a few drops at a time to the mixture.

The various shades of red to pink are obtained by using more or less carmine.

[Sidenote: Fruit juices.]

Fruit juices impart both color and flavor. They should be filtered (see page 415) before using, or they give a muddy color.

GARNISHING

To decorate cold sweet dishes, use fancy cakes, icings, fruits either fresh, candied, compote or glace; jellies or blanc-mange molded, or made into a layer and then cut into fancy shapes. Spun sugar (see page 515) makes a fine decoration, and can be formed into nests, wreaths, b.a.l.l.s, or simply spread irregularly over a dish.

[Sidenote: Candied California fruits.]

The candied California fruits are very useful and beautiful for both cold and hot desserts. They cost sixty to eighty cents a pound, and are not expensive, as but little is used at a time, and they keep indefinitely in closed jars. Cherries are used whole, the other fruits are cut into pieces.

[Sidenote: Angelica.]

Angelica is also very effective for decoration. A piece costing twenty cents will go a long way. It is cut into thin strips and then into diamond-shaped or triangular pieces, and used to simulate leaves. The combination of cherries and angelica is especially pretty.

[Sidenote: Currants.]

A mold sprinkled with currants makes a good garnish for hot or cold puddings.

[Sidenote: Raisins and almonds.]

Raisins and almonds also make an effective garnish for either hot or cold desserts.

[Sidenote: Nuts.]

Almonds, pistachio nuts, filberts, English walnuts and chestnuts are employed in many ways, as see receipts.

[Sidenote: Fresh flowers.]

Fresh flowers and green leaves may be used with good effect on many cold dishes. Pink roses lend themselves particularly to this purpose. Violets, pansies, geraniums, sweet-peas and others are often appropriate. Nasturtiums with salad are good for both decoration and flavor. (See opposite pages 328, 410, 492.)

[Sidenote: Colored sugars.]

Colored sugars and small candies called "hundreds and thousands" are used to sprinkle over icings, meringues, creams and whips. To color sugar sift coa.r.s.e granulated sugar, spread the coa.r.s.e grains on stiff paper, and drop on it a few drops of coloring fluid. Roll it under the hand until evenly tinted, then leave to dry on the paper. Keep in corked bottles.

[Sidenote: Sauces.]

Sauces for cold sweet dishes are custards, whipped cream, canned or preserved fruit, fresh fruit juices, or purees. The purees are crushed fruit sweetened to taste (with syrup at 30 if convenient). They are improved with a little flavoring of Maraschino, kirsch, curacao, or with orange or lemon juice.

Peach is improved in appearance if slightly colored with carmine.

[Sidenote: Canned fruits.]

Canned fruits are now very inexpensive, and many of them are fresh in taste as well as appearance. They are useful in a variety of desserts, and often suit the purpose as well as fresh fruits.

THE STORE-CLOSET

[Sidenote: Garnishing and flavoring.]

The various articles needed for garnishing, flavoring, etc., should be kept in gla.s.s preserve jars, and labeled. The store-closet, once furnished with the requisites for fancy dishes, will tempt the ordinary cook to a higher cla.s.s of work, and contribute to the desirable end of presenting dishes that please both sight and taste, and so raise the standard of every-day cooking. It is very easy to garnish a dish or decorate a mold, and the habit once formed will lead to more ambitious attempts.

=CUSTARDS=

BOILED CUSTARD NO. 1

2 cupfuls, or one pint, of milk.

Yolks of 3 eggs.

1/2 saltspoonful of salt.

1/2 teaspoonful of vanilla.

3 tablespoonfuls of sugar.

Boiled custard is the basis of many puddings, ice-creams and sauces. It requires care to get it just right, for the cooking must be arrested at the right point; a moment too soon leaves it too thin, a moment too long curdles and spoils it. It should have the consistency of thick cream, and be perfectly smooth. It is safer to make it in a double boiler.