The Century Cook Book.

by Mary Ronald.

PREFACE

In France various honors are awarded to cooks. Accomplished _chefs de cuisine_ are by compliment called _cordon-bleu_, which is an ancient and princely order. A successful culinary production takes the name of the inventor, and by it his fame often lasts longer than that of many men who have achieved positions in the learned professions. Cooking is there esteemed a service of especial merit, hence France ranks all nations in gastronomy.

Although definite honors are not conferred on cooks elsewhere, good cooking is everywhere appreciated, and there is no reason why it should not be the rule instead of the exception. In large establishments it may be said to prevail, but in many moderate households the daily fare is of a quality which satisfies no other sense than that of hunger, the hygienic requirements and esthetic possibilities being quite unknown or disregarded. This is what Savarin designates as feeding, in contradistinction to dining.

The author believes that the women of to-day, because of their higher education, have a better understanding of domestic duties; that hygiene, economy, system, and methods are better understood and more generally practised. Children are not only more sensibly clothed, but they are more wholesomely fed, and households are directed with more intelligent care.

It is hoped that this book will inculcate a desire to learn the simple principles of cooking for the benefits which such knowledge will give, and that it will be of material a.s.sistance to any woman who wishes to establish and maintain a well-ordered cuisine. Receipts are given for simple and inexpensive as well as elaborate and costly dishes, and they are intended to be of use to the inexperienced as well as to the trained cook. The rules are given in precise language, with definite measurement and time, so that no supervision by the mistress will be required for any receipt given the cook.

At the head of each chapter are given the general rules for the dishes included in that cla.s.s. Economy, practicability, and the resources of the average kitchen have been constantly borne in mind.

The ill.u.s.trations, it is believed, will aid materially in serving dishes, as they complete and demonstrate the receipts. Many of them are given to attract attention to very simple dishes, which might be selected as suited to one"s convenience, but which might otherwise be overlooked in a hasty perusal of the text. The pictures are from photographs of dishes, many of which are not too difficult for a novice to undertake.

The author has fortunately been able to secure from Susan Coolidge a number of receipts of New England dishes; also a few distinctively Southern dishes from an equally experienced Southern housekeeper. These, she hopes, will enable many who have strayed from home to enjoy again the dishes a.s.sociated with other times and places.

Much care has been taken to give a complete alphabetical index, so that anything in the book can be quickly found, even if the ordinary cla.s.sification is not understood.

The chapters on etiquette, serving, etc., are meant to aid those young housekeepers who, from lack of observation or experience, find themselves at a loss to remember small details when the responsibility of an entertainment falls upon them for the first time.

The author, in speaking of this book to friends, has had various questions asked and suggestions given, by which she has endeavored to profit. Some of the questions have been the following:

"Have you given receipts suitable for a family of two or three?"

"Have you given expedients, so if articles called for in the receipts are not at hand others may be subst.i.tuted?"

"Is your book only for rich people?"

"Is it not a mistake to use French names, which many do not understand?"

etc., etc.

In deference to the last suggestion, she has explained the meaning of certain cla.s.ses of dishes known only by the French names, and which would lose character if translated. A souffle, for instance, has no special significance when called "inflated," but the word souffle defines the cla.s.s of dishes which are inflated, and is so generally understood that it is almost an Anglicized word.

The terms Souffles, Pates, Timbales, Hors-d"oeuvres, Entrees, etc., are as distinctive as Stews, Hashes, Creams, etc.; hence there seems no other way than to learn the culinary nomenclature as one partakes of the dishes.

The author strongly urges the trial of new dishes, and breaking away from the routine of habit. The preparation of so-called fancy dishes is very simple. A little attention given to ornamentation and garnishing, making dishes attractive in appearance as well as taste, will raise the standard of cooking without necessarily increasing the expense.

THE CENTURY COOK BOOK

PART I

DINNER-GIVING AND THE ETIQUETTE OF DINNERS

"To feed were best at home; From thence, the sauce to meat is ceremony, Meeting were bare without it."--_Shakspere_

A dinner party may be considered as holding the highest rank among entertainments. In no other social function is etiquette so strictly observed. There are prescribed rules for the form of the invitation, the manner of a.s.signing each guest his place at the table, the manner of serving the dinner, etc.; and when these rules are followed there need be no embarra.s.sments.

[Sidenote: The Company.]

It should always be remembered that the social part of the entertainment is on a higher plane than the gastronomic one, though the latter must by no means be slighted. A sentiment expressed by the wit who said, "A fig for your bill of fare, give me a bill of your company," is generally felt, and a hostess should bring together only such people as she believes will be mutually agreeable.

The idea, given by Goldsmith in his "Retaliation," of looking upon one"s friends as so many pleasant dishes, is offered as a suggestion. He says:

If our landlord supplies us with beef and with fish, Let each guest bring himself, and he brings the best dish: Our Dean shall be venison, just fresh from the plains; Our Burke shall be tongue, with a garnish of brains; Our Will shall be wild fowl of excellent flavour, And d.i.c.k with his pepper shall heighten the savour; Our c.u.mberland"s sweetbread its place shall obtain, And Douglas is pudding, substantial and plain; Our Garrick"s a salad, for in him we see Oil, vinegar, sugar, and saltness agree:...

At a dinner so various--at such a repast, Who"d not be a glutton, and stick to the last?

[Sidenote: The Host and Hostess.]

The hostess should give her instructions for the details of the entertainment so explicitly that on the arrival of the guests she will have no care other than their pleasure.

If she is nervous, has wandering eyes, or shows constraint, it affects sensibly the ease of her guests. The spirit of pleasure is infectious, and upon the demeanor of the hosts the success of the evening largely depends. Much tact may be shown in placing the right people together at the table. If one is a great talker let the other be a good listener; if one is dogmatic let the other be without positive views, and so on; for as every one is happiest when appearing well, it is wise to consider the idiosyncrasies of the guests.

"T is a great point in a gallery how you hang your pictures; and not less in society how you seat your party.

[Sidenote: The Guests.]

The part of the hosts is thus well defined; but the guests, too, have their obligations, and in recognition of the compliment of being included in an entertainment where the number of guests is limited to very few, each one should make exertion to be agreeable, as a dull dinner companion is a recognized misfortune. At a dinner there is time, not given at most other forms of entertainment, for rational and sustained conversation, and this may be turned to durance vile if one victimizes by egotism or caprice the person who without power of withdrawal is a.s.signed to his or her society for perhaps two hours or more. Also, if one finds oneself neighbor to some person for whom one has a personal antipathy, it must not be allowed to interfere with the general pleasure; and should such a situation occur, there is nothing to do but to make the best of it, and conceal from the hostess the mistake she has unwittingly made--

And do as adversaries do in law, Strive mightily, but eat and drink as friends.

Under these circ.u.mstances the discovery may possibly be made that an unfriendly person is more agreeable than was supposed, and a pleasanter relationship may be established.

[Sidenote: Time.]

Two hours is the extreme limit of time that should be given to a dinner; one hour and a quarter, or a half, is preferable.

Eight courses served quickly, but without seeming haste, require as much time as most people can sit at the table without fatigue. Last impressions are as enduring as first ones, so it is important not to surfeit, for

When fatigue enters into so-called pleasure, failure begins.

Judgment shown in combination of dishes, the perfection of their preparation, careful serving, and taste in adornment, are elements of refinement that far outweigh quant.i.ty and ostentation.

[Sidenote: Temperature.]

The temperature and ventilation of the dining-room should be given careful attention. The best of spirits and the brightest wit will flag in an overheated, ill-ventilated room. It is not always easy to maintain a fresh atmosphere where as many guests are seated as the size of the room permits, but at least the room can be well aired before the dinner is served. Windows opened a very little from both the top and bottom in an adjoining room, with a careful adjustment of screens to protect those who are sensitive to drafts, will do much to keep the air fresh, and will have a sensible effect upon the comfort and mental activity of the company.

[Sidenote: The Invitation.]