=CROUSTADE OF SHRIMPS=

Make a sauce the same as for lobster filling (see page 140), and subst.i.tute potted shrimp meat for the lobster. Serve in croustades of rice. This is a good luncheon dish, and easily prepared.

Sh.e.l.l-FISH, LOBSTERS, CRABS

=OYSTERS=

Oysters are out of season during the months of May, June, July, and August. The rule is to use oysters only in the months that have the letter r in the name.

[Sidenote: How to serve on half-sh.e.l.l.]

When served raw, the small varieties are the best. They are left on the deep half of the sh.e.l.l. Six are allowed for each person. They should be arranged regularly on the plate around a little ice broken fine, the valve side toward the center of plate, and in the center of the circle a quarter of a lemon. A few sprigs of parsley or cress under the lemon makes a pretty garnish. Black and red pepper are served with raw oysters, and also very thin slices of b.u.t.tered brown bread.

[Sidenote: Precaution.]

Oysters served raw should be very fresh. It is therefore not desirable to use them in this way when one lives inland. To prevent the chance of any bits of sh.e.l.l getting into oyster dishes, they should be washed; each oyster being taken on a fork and dipped into water. As they are largely composed of water, this will not injure their flavor. The juice should be strained through a coa.r.s.e sieve.

Cracker crumbs are better than bread crumbs for mixing with oysters.

[Sidenote: Cooking.]

Oysters require very little cooking. They are put over the fire in their own liquor, and removed the moment they are plump or the gills are curled. More cooking than this makes them tough.

=FRIED OYSTERS=

Drain the oysters. Roll each one first in cracker crumbs, then in egg mixed with a little milk, and seasoned with pepper and salt, then again in the cracker crumbs. Use first the crumbs, as the egg will not otherwise adhere well to the oyster. Place them in a wire basket, and immerse in smoking hot fat. As soon as they a.s.sume a light-amber color drain, and serve immediately.

Oysters should not be fried until the moment of serving, for they are quickly cooked and it is essential to have them hot.

Pickles, chow-chow, horse-radish, cold-slaw, or celery salad are served with fried oysters, and may be used as a garnish or be served separately.

=OYSTERS a LA VILLEROI=

Prepare a _Villeroi_ sauce (see page 280). Heat the oysters in their own liquor until plump, then remove and wipe them dry. Place them on a pan turned bottom side up, leaving a s.p.a.ce around each one. With a spoon cover each oyster with the thick sauce, and set them away for several hours to cool and harden; then trim them to good shape. Take one at a time on a broad knife or spatula, and, holding it over a dish containing beaten egg, coat it well with egg; then cover it with fresh bread crumbs and draw the coating around the whole oyster. Place the rolled oysters in a wire basket, and immerse in hot fat until an amber color. Dress them on a folded napkin, and serve with a Bechamel sauce, or with the same sauce with which they are coated, diluted with stock or oyster juice. A little chopped truffle and mushrooms improve the sauce.

=BROILED OYSTERS=

Dry the oysters. Heat the broiler well, and grease it by rubbing it with a slice of salt pork or with suet. Dip the oysters into melted b.u.t.ter, or into oil, and lay them on the broiler. Broil them on both sides for a few minutes over bright coals. Have ready some toast cut into uniform shapes and moistened with oyster juice. On each crouton place three or four oysters, and pour over them a little melted maitre d"hotel sauce.

=PANNED OYSTERS=

Heat a baking-pan very hot. Put into it a tablespoonful of b.u.t.ter; then the oysters, which have been well drained. Let them cook in hot oven until browned. Have ready some toast cut into even pieces; soften them with some liquor from the pan; place three or four oysters on each piece, and pour over them the liquor from the pan, which should be reduced if too watery. Sprinkle with a little parsley chopped very fine.

=ROASTED OYSTERS=

Wash the sh.e.l.ls well with a brush and cold water. Place them in a pan with the deep half of sh.e.l.l down. Put them into a hot oven, and bake until the sh.e.l.l opens. Remove the top sh.e.l.l carefully so as not to lose the liquor. Arrange them on plates, and on each oyster place a piece of b.u.t.ter and a little pepper and salt. If roasted too long the oysters will be tough.

=OYSTERS a LA POULETTE=

25 oysters.

1 cupful of oyster juice.

1 cupful of milk or cream.

Yolks of 3 eggs.

2 tablespoonfuls of b.u.t.ter.

4 tablespoonfuls of flour.

1 scant teaspoonful of salt.

1 saltspoonful of pepper.

Dash of cayenne pepper.

Dash of nutmeg.

Scald the oysters in their liquor until plump. Put into a saucepan two tablespoonfuls of b.u.t.ter; when melted stir in carefully the flour, and cook, but not brown. Stir in slowly the oyster juice; when perfectly smooth add the milk or cream and the seasoning. Take it off the fire, and when a little cooled stir in the beaten yolks. Place again on the fire, and stir until thickened; then pour it over the oysters on a hot dish. Place a border of triangular-shaped croutons around the dish, and serve at once. Do not add the cream and eggs to the sauce until time to serve, so that there may be no delay, as this dish is not good unless hot, and if kept standing the sauce will curdle. The sauce should be of the consistency of cream.

=SCALLOPED OYSTERS=

Place in a shallow baking-dish a layer of oysters; over this spread a layer of bread or cracker crumbs; sprinkle it with salt, pepper, and bits of b.u.t.ter; alternate the layers until the dish is full, having crumbs on top, well dotted with bits of b.u.t.ter. Pour over the whole enough oyster juice to moisten it. Bake in a hot oven fifteen or twenty minutes, or until browned; serve it in the same dish in which it is baked. Individual scallop-cups or sh.e.l.ls may also be used, enough for one person being placed in each cup.

=OYSTER FILLING FOR PATTIES=

For one dozen oysters,

1 tablespoonful of b.u.t.ter.

1 tablespoonful of flour.

1 cupful of milk or cream.

Yolks of 2 eggs.

Dash of cayenne.

Dash of mace.

Scald the oysters in their liquor; drain and cut each one into four pieces with a silver knife. Put the b.u.t.ter into a saucepan, and when melted add the flour; cook, but not brown; then add the milk or cream, and stir until smooth; add the seasoning, and remove from the fire. When a little cooled add the beaten yolks, stirring vigorously; place again on the fire, and stir until thickened; then add the pieces of oysters.

The filling should be soft and creamy, and the patty cases should be heated before the filling is put in.

This mixture is improved by using an equal quant.i.ty of oysters and mushrooms, either fresh or canned, and should be highly seasoned. It may be served in bread-boxes (see page 82), or in crusts prepared by removing the crumb from rolls, then browning them in the oven. Minced oysters and clams in equal parts, with some of their juice used in making the sauce, also make a good filling.

The same mixture may be made into croquettes, in which case two tablespoonfuls of flour instead of one are used, also a few more oysters, and the sauce is allowed to become thicker (see croquettes, page 292).

=CLAMS=