II. =Course: Soup.= It is better to serve a clear soup when the dinner is to be of many courses, as heavy soups are too hearty. The choice of two kinds of soup may be offered. Grated Parmesan cheese may be pa.s.sed with clear soups, dice of fried bread with cream soups, and toasted cracker biscuits with any kind of soup. One ladleful of soup is sufficient for each person, and a second portion is not offered. An anecdote is told of a punctilious person who, being asked if he would be helped again to soup, answered, "Thanks, not to-day."

Hors d"oeuvres, which are radishes, celery, olives, etc., are pa.s.sed after the soup. Salted almonds are taken at any time through the dinner.

[Sidenote: Third Course: Fish.]

III. =Course: Fish.= Fish, if boiled or fried, is served upon a napkin. If baked no napkin is used, and a little sauce is spread on the dish. Boiled potatoes are served with boiled fish, and are more attractive when cut with a potato-scoop into small b.a.l.l.s. Cuc.u.mbers dressed with oil and vinegar are also served with fish.

[Sidenote: Fourth Course: Entrees.]

IV. =Course: Entrees.= Entrees can be served between any of the courses, or they may be omitted altogether; but a variety of attractive dishes come under this head, and usually one is served after the fish.

[Sidenote: Fifth Course: Vegetables.]

V. =Course: Vegetables.= A vegetable, such as asparagus, artichokes, cauliflower, is served at this time, although the French reserve the vegetable until after the joint. Only one vegetable besides potato is permitted with a meat course, and if more are wanted they are served as a separate course.

[Sidenote: Sixth Course.]

VI. =Course.= The joint with one green vegetable and potato.

[Sidenote: Seventh Course.]

VII. =Course.= Frozen punch, when served, comes between the meat and game courses. It is not pa.s.sed, but a gla.s.sful standing on a plate, with a coffee spoon beside it, is placed before each person.

If preferred, a cheese omelet or souffle may be used instead of punch for this course.

[Sidenote: Eighth Course.]

VIII. =Course: Game and Salad, or Poultry and Salad.= Game is usually not pa.s.sed, but the portions are laid on the individual plates by the butler. This is done in order to serve it as hot as possible. A small cold plate is sometimes given for the salad; crescent-shaped plates are made for this use. With ducks, celery and small squares of fried hominy are served. When game or poultry is not used, cheese may be served with the salad, or cheese-straws instead of cheese. When salad is served with game or poultry, cheese and crackers may be served immediately afterward as a separate course, or they may be pa.s.sed after the dessert.

[Sidenote: Ninth Course.]

IX. =Course.= Sweet puddings, souffles, Bavarian cream, etc.

[Sidenote: Tenth Course.]

X. =Course.= Ice-cream or any frozen dessert. Cakes and brandied peaches, preserved ginger, or wine-jellies may be pa.s.sed with ice-cream.

[Sidenote: Eleventh Course.]

XI. =Course.= Fruit, fresh or glace, and bonbons.

[Sidenote: Twelfth Course.]

XII. =Course.= Coffee, liqueurs.

Of the courses given above, the first, fourth, fifth, and seventh, and a choice of either the ninth or tenth, may all, or any one of them, be omitted.

Black coffee in small cups is pa.s.sed on a tray, with cream and sugar, in the drawing- and smoking-rooms after the guests have left the table.

Apollinaris or other sparkling water is pa.s.sed later, and is usually welcomed.

THE HOME DINNER

At the every-day or family dinner there will naturally be less elaboration in the decoration of the table, and fewer courses, than when the dinner is an occasion of entertainment, but so far as the appointments reach they should be observed with the same precision and care. The dinner has always something of a ceremonious character, being the time when the family all meet with the leisure to enjoy one another"s society after the labors of the day are done. It is well, therefore, to attend to the few material details which aid in making the occasion an agreeable one. Refinements are more clearly shown at table than elsewhere, and the influences of decorum at dinner are more subtle than are always recognized. Let the linen be as spotless and white, the silver and gla.s.s as polished, and the dishes, however few, be as carefully prepared as though guests were present. The simplest dinner so ordered will give pleasure and satisfaction. When attention to details is practised every day, company will cause no agitation in the household. The refinements of the table are within the means of the humblest. A word may also be said for manners at the home table. The habit of fault-finding, commenting upon the dishes and wines, correcting the mistakes of servants while at the table, making apologies, etc., is reprehensible, inefficacious and vulgar, and not only interrupts conversation, but spoils the pleasure of the dinner hour. It is always difficult, and often impossible, to improve a dish after it is served; therefore, it is better to accept it without remark. If the housekeeper, who is always the first to observe faults in the service, can conceal her discomfiture, it is but right for the others to be considerate. Faults often pa.s.s unnoticed if attention is not called to them. Dr.

Johnson, it is said, always complained of his dinners, but never omitted to say grace. Upon one such occasion his wife interrupted him, saying, "Nay, hold, Mr. Johnson! Do not make a farce of thanking G.o.d for a dinner which in a few minutes you will p.r.o.nounce uneatable."

The home table, with its every-day appointments, causing one to blush in the event of a friend"s unexpected arrival, is not to be excused in this day of advanced women in the nineteenth century, when higher education has at least taught them to regard their domestic duties in the light of a science and an art.

There are many simple dishes that can be quickly prepared which will give the dinner a little more complimentary character, and supply the little extra that may be needed when more are present than were originally provided for. A beefsteak can be virtually enlarged by serving with it a mushroom sauce, for the mushrooms, having the same elements of nutrition as the meat, permit the latter to be served in smaller portions. A simple entree, such as a dish of macaroni, a scallop dish, a mince, with good sauce (which is easily made where the stock pot is ever ready), a cheese omelet, a vegetable salad, etc., etc., are suggested as a few of the dishes, which are called by the French _plats d"amitie_, and should enable any woman to enjoy the pleasure of entertaining unexpected guests in a hospitable manner.

SERVING THE INFORMAL DINNER

In laying the table for an informal dinner, where the carving is to be done on the table, a napkin to protect the cloth is spread at the carver"s place. Very pretty fancy pieces are made for this use, but an ordinary dinner napkin will do. This is not removed until the table is cleared for the dessert. When the carving is done on the table, the soup and dessert are usually served by the lady of the house, and the salad is also dressed on the table, and then pa.s.sed. So far as the service will allow, however, it is pleasanter to have everything pa.s.sed that does not need cutting.

The vegetable dishes should never be placed on the table.

When the joint is put on the table, warm plates in a pile are set at the left of, or before the carver, and when a portion is served, the plate is lifted by the servant and placed before the person for whom it is intended, without the use of a tray. The plates placed on the table when it is laid are used for holding the soup plates, and are not removed until the ones holding the portions of the next course are exchanged for them; if the succeeding course is to be pa.s.sed, warm or cold plates, as the course requires, are in turn exchanged for them; but if the course is to be served from the table, the places are meanwhile left without covers.

There should always be a plate before each person except in this instance, and when the table is cleared for dessert.

Sharpening the carving-knife is a trial to the nerves of many, and this infliction can be easily avoided by having it done before dinner is announced. Many good carvers, however, seem to delight in this preliminary operation and are unconscious of committing an act of impoliteness. The attractiveness of a dish may be wholly lost by unskilful carving, and the appet.i.te may be destroyed by an overloaded plate. Where but one substantial dish is served, it is permissible to be helped a second time. The dish can be removed to the side-table, and the second portions helped by the servant, if the carver does not care to be interrupted in his own dinner after he has performed the office of cutting the joint.

The sense of sight should always be considered, even though it cost the trouble of replenishing a dish. No more than can be used on one plate is served at the same time at any well appointed table. One vegetable only, besides potatoes, is served with the roast; if more are used, they are served as courses separately.

LUNCHEON

The luncheon service does not differ materially from that of dinner. Lighter dishes are usually served, entrees taking the place of joints and roasts, and the soup or bouillon is served in cups instead of soup plates. Grape fruit, or a fruit salad, is often an acceptable first course.

When the table has a handsome and polished surface the cloth may be left off if desired and a fancy square take its place.

In this case small squares may also be used under the plates to protect the table and in such other places as needed.

Drawn-work linen squares over mahogany make an attractive luncheon table.

When a large number of guests are being entertained at luncheon, small tables placed in the different rooms (and on the piazzas, if in the country) are often used, and these do not admit of more than the slight decoration of a few flowers.

Luncheons of this kind are usually of an informal character and secondary to some entertainment which has preceded them. A few simple menus for luncheons are given below.

MENUS FOR LUNCHEON

No. 1.

Grape Fruit.