For the Dumpling2/3 cup graham flour cup graham flour1/3 cup unbleached all-purpose flour cup unbleached all-purpose flour teaspoon baking soda teaspoon salt teaspoon ground ginger teaspoon ground cinnamon teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg cup milk cup light muscovado or other unrefined sugar (see GLOSSARY OF INGREDIENTS) cup mola.s.ses1 large egg, beaten4 tablespoons ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, melted1 tablespoon finely grated fresh gingerGrated zest of 1 small lemonFor CookingUnsalted b.u.t.ter to coat the cake panEquipment2-inch-high steamer rackPot large enough to hold both the rack and the pan when covered9-inch round cake pan 1. Place the steamer rack in the pot, add 1 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, rub a little b.u.t.ter around the inside of the cake pan. Place the steamer rack in the pot, add 1 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, rub a little b.u.t.ter around the inside of the cake pan.

2. Combine the flours, baking soda, salt, ground ginger, cinnamon, and nutmeg in a large bowl. Mix together the milk, muscovado sugar, mola.s.ses, egg, melted b.u.t.ter, grated ginger, and lemon zest in a medium bowl. Pour the milk mixture into the flour mixture and stir until just combined. Pour the batter into the prepared cake pan and give it a gentle shake to level it off. Combine the flours, baking soda, salt, ground ginger, cinnamon, and nutmeg in a large bowl. Mix together the milk, muscovado sugar, mola.s.ses, egg, melted b.u.t.ter, grated ginger, and lemon zest in a medium bowl. Pour the milk mixture into the flour mixture and stir until just combined. Pour the batter into the prepared cake pan and give it a gentle shake to level it off.

3. Carefully place the filled pan on the steamer rack, cover, reduce the heat to medium, and steam for 30 minutes. Carefully place the filled pan on the steamer rack, cover, reduce the heat to medium, and steam for 30 minutes.

4. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully lift the pan out of the pot, place it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the gingerbread to cool slightly. Slice and serve warm or at room temperature. Gingerbread can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Reheat in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (TIPS). Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully lift the pan out of the pot, place it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the gingerbread to cool slightly. Slice and serve warm or at room temperature. Gingerbread can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Reheat in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (TIPS).

A Wealth of Steamed Rice m.u.f.fins Fot Gao (China) (China) SERVES 6 6 TO TO 12 ( 12 (MAKES 12 12 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

Fot gao means "fortune cake," and it"s said that the more the tops of these tasty rice cakes bloom open during steaming, the greater your fortunes will blossom in the coming year. Chinese brown slab sugar is available at many Asian groceries, and is used to add a mild sweetness. If you have trouble finding it, you can add another cup of the muscovado sugar. These dumplings are a.s.sociated primarily with the Chinese New Year, but we admit to making them anytime we want a light, sweet snack. means "fortune cake," and it"s said that the more the tops of these tasty rice cakes bloom open during steaming, the greater your fortunes will blossom in the coming year. Chinese brown slab sugar is available at many Asian groceries, and is used to add a mild sweetness. If you have trouble finding it, you can add another cup of the muscovado sugar. These dumplings are a.s.sociated primarily with the Chinese New Year, but we admit to making them anytime we want a light, sweet snack.

For the Dumplings4 ounces Chinese brown slab sugar, chopped coa.r.s.e, or cup other unrefined sugar (see GLOSSARY OF INGREDIENTS) cup light muscovado or other unrefined sugar1 cups white rice flour, preferably from China or Thailand2 tablespoons baking powderEquipment8- to 10-quart steamer pot12 individual baking cups12 paper baking cups 1. MAKE THE BATTER MAKE THE BATTER: Place the sugars in a small saucepan, pour in 1 cups water, and heat over medium heat. Stir, crushing apart any chunks of sugar with the back of a wooden spoon. Remove from the heat as soon as the sugar has dissolved, 3 to 4 minutes. Pour the sugar mixture into a bowl and allow it to cool to room temperature. Place the sugars in a small saucepan, pour in 1 cups water, and heat over medium heat. Stir, crushing apart any chunks of sugar with the back of a wooden spoon. Remove from the heat as soon as the sugar has dissolved, 3 to 4 minutes. Pour the sugar mixture into a bowl and allow it to cool to room temperature.

2. Combine the rice flour and the baking powder in a large bowl. Pour in the cooled sugar syrup and stir until the batter is completely smooth. It will be very thin. Pour the batter into a container with a spout for pouring. Combine the rice flour and the baking powder in a large bowl. Pour in the cooled sugar syrup and stir until the batter is completely smooth. It will be very thin. Pour the batter into a container with a spout for pouring.

3. STEAM THE DUMPLINGS STEAM THE DUMPLINGS: Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Line the individual baking cups with the paper baking cups. Arrange as many of the lined cups in the basket as you can. Pour just enough batter into each cup to fill them two-thirds full. Place the basket in the pot, cover, and steam on high heat for 15 minutes. Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Line the individual baking cups with the paper baking cups. Arrange as many of the lined cups in the basket as you can. Pour just enough batter into each cup to fill them two-thirds full. Place the basket in the pot, cover, and steam on high heat for 15 minutes.

4. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket, place on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket, place on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the fot gao fot gao to cool slightly. Remove them from the individual baking cups and arrange them on a plate. Cook any remaining batter. Serve warm or at room temperature. to cool slightly. Remove them from the individual baking cups and arrange them on a plate. Cook any remaining batter. Serve warm or at room temperature. Fot gao Fot gao can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Reheat them in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (TIPS). can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Reheat them in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (TIPS).

Steamed Bread Rolls Mantou (China) (China) SERVES 3 3 TO TO 4 ( 4 (MAKES 6 6 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

The ever-popular steamed bun of China is prized for its unique consistency and slightly sweet flavor. Bite into any well-made mantou mantou and you"ll notice a delicate balance of tenderness and chew. This pleasant bite is the result of a stretchy yeast dough that"s been mellowed with baking powder and vegetable shortening. Traditionally, lard is used but vegetable shortening offers a cleaner, more neutral flavor. This same dough is used for other filled steamed buns in this book, including the and you"ll notice a delicate balance of tenderness and chew. This pleasant bite is the result of a stretchy yeast dough that"s been mellowed with baking powder and vegetable shortening. Traditionally, lard is used but vegetable shortening offers a cleaner, more neutral flavor. This same dough is used for other filled steamed buns in this book, including the Zhu Rou Baozi Zhu Rou Baozi (May), (May), Xiang Gu Baozi Xiang Gu Baozi (May), and (May), and Nuo Mi Juan Nuo Mi Juan (February). (February).

These dumplings are made using the Jelly-Roll Shape.

For the Dumplings cup warm milk or water1 teaspoons active dry yeast (about packet)1 tablespoons sugar1 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus some extra for dusting1 tablespoon nonhydrogenated vegetable shortening or lard1 teaspoon baking powder teaspoon saltFor CookingGrapeseed or other neutral oil to coat the steamer basketEquipment8- to 10-quart steamer pot 1. PROOF THE YEAST PROOF THE YEAST: Pour the milk into a small bowl, stir in the yeast and the sugar, and proof for 15 minutes. The surface should become foamy. If not, start again with a new yeast packet. Pour the milk into a small bowl, stir in the yeast and the sugar, and proof for 15 minutes. The surface should become foamy. If not, start again with a new yeast packet.

2. MAKE THE DOUGH MAKE THE DOUGH: While the yeast proofs, put 1 cups of the flour in a large bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Add the yeast mixture and mix until all the liquid has been absorbed. Work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. If the dough is wet and sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers. While the yeast proofs, put 1 cups of the flour in a large bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Add the yeast mixture and mix until all the liquid has been absorbed. Work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. If the dough is wet and sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers.

3. Place the dough on a floured surface and knead for 4 to 5 minutes. The dough will be soft and tacky. Return the dough to the bowl, cover with a damp kitchen towel, and set aside in a warm place for 1 to 2 hours. The dough will double in size. Use the Proofing Pot Setup (TIPS) if the temperature of the room is not ideal. Place the dough on a floured surface and knead for 4 to 5 minutes. The dough will be soft and tacky. Return the dough to the bowl, cover with a damp kitchen towel, and set aside in a warm place for 1 to 2 hours. The dough will double in size. Use the Proofing Pot Setup (TIPS) if the temperature of the room is not ideal.

4. Punch down the dough, place it on a floured surface, and knead once or twice. Sprinkle with flour if it gets a little sticky. Pat the dough into a small round, about 8 inches across. Pinch the shortening into small bits and dot them across the surface of the dough round. Sprinkle the baking powder and salt over the top. Fold the dough over, enveloping the shortening, then roll it back into a ball. Knead until the shortening has been incorporated and the dough is smooth and elastic. If bits of the shortening ooze out, sprinkle that area with a little flour and continue kneading. Return the dough to the bowl, cover, and let the dough rest for 15 minutes. Punch down the dough, place it on a floured surface, and knead once or twice. Sprinkle with flour if it gets a little sticky. Pat the dough into a small round, about 8 inches across. Pinch the shortening into small bits and dot them across the surface of the dough round. Sprinkle the baking powder and salt over the top. Fold the dough over, enveloping the shortening, then roll it back into a ball. Knead until the shortening has been incorporated and the dough is smooth and elastic. If bits of the shortening ooze out, sprinkle that area with a little flour and continue kneading. Return the dough to the bowl, cover, and let the dough rest for 15 minutes.

At this point, the dough can also be used for the Zhu Rou Baozi, Xiang Gu Baozi Zhu Rou Baozi, Xiang Gu Baozi, or Nuo Mi Juan Nuo Mi Juan.

5. a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS: Before a.s.sembling the Before a.s.sembling the mantou, mantou, review the Jelly-Roll Shape. review the Jelly-Roll Shape.

6. Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and set aside. Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and set aside.

7. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, shape it into a blunt log, then roll it out into an 8-inch square. Brush the surface of the square with a little water. Starting at any side, begin to roll up the dough. Pinch and press the far edge of the dough along the length of the log to seal. Use your hands to roll the log back and forth until it"s 12 inches long. Cut the log into 6 equal pieces. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, shape it into a blunt log, then roll it out into an 8-inch square. Brush the surface of the square with a little water. Starting at any side, begin to roll up the dough. Pinch and press the far edge of the dough along the length of the log to seal. Use your hands to roll the log back and forth until it"s 12 inches long. Cut the log into 6 equal pieces.

8. STEAM THE DUMPLINGS STEAM THE DUMPLINGS: Coat the bottom of the basket with oil and arrange as many of the dumplings as you can, seam side down, leaving about 1 inch of s.p.a.ce around each. Cover any dumplings waiting to be cooked with a cloth. Coat the bottom of the basket with oil and arrange as many of the dumplings as you can, seam side down, leaving about 1 inch of s.p.a.ce around each. Cover any dumplings waiting to be cooked with a cloth.

9. Bring the water in the steamer pot to a boil over high heat. Place the basket in the pot, cover, reduce the heat to medium-high, and steam for 20 minutes. Bring the water in the steamer pot to a boil over high heat. Place the basket in the pot, cover, reduce the heat to medium-high, and steam for 20 minutes.

10. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket, place it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket, place it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the mantou mantou to cool slightly. Move them to a plate. Cook any remaining to cool slightly. Move them to a plate. Cook any remaining mantou mantou. Serve warm or at room temperature. Mantou Mantou can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen (see TIPS) for up to 6 months. Reheat them in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (TIPS). If reheating frozen can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen (see TIPS) for up to 6 months. Reheat them in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (TIPS). If reheating frozen mantou mantou, allow them to thaw before steaming.

"Priest Stranglers" with Brown b.u.t.ter and Sage Strangolapreti (Italy) (Italy) SERVES 4 ( 4 (MAKES ABOUT 48 48 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

Dumplings known as strangolapreti strangolapreti differ greatly throughout Italy. Spinach, chard, or other leafy greens worked into the dough are, however, often considered a defining characteristic. One popular type from northern Italy starts by soaking bits of day-old bread in spinach-water. Flour and spinach are then added to create a soft, easy-to-roll dough. The dumplings are vibrant in color and stand out as a special offering on any table. differ greatly throughout Italy. Spinach, chard, or other leafy greens worked into the dough are, however, often considered a defining characteristic. One popular type from northern Italy starts by soaking bits of day-old bread in spinach-water. Flour and spinach are then added to create a soft, easy-to-roll dough. The dumplings are vibrant in color and stand out as a special offering on any table.

For the Dumplings1 large bunch spinach, stemmed, rinsed, and hand-wilted (see TIPS)10 cups -inch crustless white bread cubes (see GLOSSARY OF INGREDIENTS)2 large eggs, beaten2 teaspoons salt teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour, plus some extra for dustingFor the Sauce3 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, cut into chunks8 to 10 fresh sage leaves1 garlic clove, chopped very fineFor Serving cup freshly grated Parmesan cheeseSalt and freshly ground black pepper to tasteEquipmentLarge plate or tray to hold the dumplings cooked in batches 1. MAKE THE DOUGH MAKE THE DOUGH: Gather up half of the wilted spinach, hold it over the bowl, and squeeze out as much juice as you can. Place the squeezed spinach on a cutting board and repeat with the remaining spinach in the bowl. Pour the collected juice into a measuring cup. Add cool water to the juice until you have 1 cup of liquid. Gather up half of the wilted spinach, hold it over the bowl, and squeeze out as much juice as you can. Place the squeezed spinach on a cutting board and repeat with the remaining spinach in the bowl. Pour the collected juice into a measuring cup. Add cool water to the juice until you have 1 cup of liquid.

2. Finely chop the spinach, place it back into the bowl, add the bread cubes, and pour in the spinach-water. Work the mixture together by squishing it through your fingers until all of the bread has been broken down into a pulp. Mix in the eggs, salt, nutmeg, and the cup of Parmesan. Add cup of the flour and keep the remaining cup handy. Work the mixture into one manageable ball. If the dough is wet and sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers. Finely chop the spinach, place it back into the bowl, add the bread cubes, and pour in the spinach-water. Work the mixture together by squishing it through your fingers until all of the bread has been broken down into a pulp. Mix in the eggs, salt, nutmeg, and the cup of Parmesan. Add cup of the flour and keep the remaining cup handy. Work the mixture into one manageable ball. If the dough is wet and sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers.

3. MAKE THE DUMPLINGS MAKE THE DUMPLINGS: Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour.

4. Pinch off a small piece of dough and roll it into a ball about 1 inches around. Place the ball on a floured surface, roll into a rope about 4 inches long with tapered ends (a cigar shape), dust with flour, and place on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remaining dough, keeping the dumplings in a single layer on the tray. Pinch off a small piece of dough and roll it into a ball about 1 inches around. Place the ball on a floured surface, roll into a rope about 4 inches long with tapered ends (a cigar shape), dust with flour, and place on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remaining dough, keeping the dumplings in a single layer on the tray.

5. COOK THE DUMPLINGS COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Fill a large pot halfway with salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer. Fill a large pot halfway with salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer.

6. Carefully drop half of the dumplings, a few at a time, into the simmering water. Cook until all of them are floating, about 3 minutes, then cook for 2 minutes longer. Carefully drop half of the dumplings, a few at a time, into the simmering water. Cook until all of them are floating, about 3 minutes, then cook for 2 minutes longer.

7. Remove the dumplings with a slotted spoon, scatter them around the large plate or tray, and drizzle with a few spoonfuls of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Cook the remaining dumplings and place them on the plate with another few spoonfuls of the cooking liquid. Remove the dumplings with a slotted spoon, scatter them around the large plate or tray, and drizzle with a few spoonfuls of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Cook the remaining dumplings and place them on the plate with another few spoonfuls of the cooking liquid.

8. MAKE THE SAUCE MAKE THE SAUCE: Melt the b.u.t.ter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the sage leaves and garlic and cook until the garlic just begins to brown, about 2 minutes. Drain the Melt the b.u.t.ter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the sage leaves and garlic and cook until the garlic just begins to brown, about 2 minutes. Drain the strangolapreti strangolapreti and add them to the b.u.t.ter sauce. Toss and stir gently until the edges just begin to brown. Remove from the heat, mix in the cup of Parmesan, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve. and add them to the b.u.t.ter sauce. Toss and stir gently until the edges just begin to brown. Remove from the heat, mix in the cup of Parmesan, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve.

Potato Gnocchi Gnocchi di Patate (Italy) (Italy) SERVES 4 4.

Making gnocchi requires a light touch and the ability to be flexible, but once you master the recipe, you can easily make gnocchi anytime, in anyone"s kitchen, without any instructions in front of you. We prefer gnocchi that are made without eggs so that less flour is needed to make the dough. The less flour you need, the more potato flavor there will be in each bite. If this dough is new to you, it may take a couple of tries to get it just right, but the gnocchi you produce while trying will still be perfectly good to eat.

For the Dumplings4 medium baking potatoes, such as russet1 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus some extra for dusting teaspoon saltFor the Sauce*4 tablespoons ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, cut into chunksFor Serving* cup freshly grated Parmesan cheeseSalt and freshly ground black pepper to tasteEquipmentPotato ricerGnocchi board (optional)Large plate or tray to hold the dumplings cooked in batches 1. MAKE THE DOUGH MAKE THE DOUGH: Place the potatoes in a small pot, pour in enough water to cover them, and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to medium, and simmer until fork-tender, about 30 minutes. Drain and place the potatoes on a folded kitchen towel. When they"re cool enough to handle, peel off their skins, break them into chunks, then press them through the ricer into a large bowl. Place the potatoes in a small pot, pour in enough water to cover them, and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to medium, and simmer until fork-tender, about 30 minutes. Drain and place the potatoes on a folded kitchen towel. When they"re cool enough to handle, peel off their skins, break them into chunks, then press them through the ricer into a large bowl.

2. Add 1 cup of the flour to the riced potato, keeping the remaining cup handy, then add the salt and toss until mixed evenly. Work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. Add 1 cup of the flour to the riced potato, keeping the remaining cup handy, then add the salt and toss until mixed evenly. Work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball.

3. Place the dough on a floured surface and knead for 2 to 3 minutes. This dough needs to be firm enough to hold its shape when rolled into b.a.l.l.s. If it is too soft or sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time. Place the dough on a floured surface and knead for 2 to 3 minutes. This dough needs to be firm enough to hold its shape when rolled into b.a.l.l.s. If it is too soft or sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time.

4. MAKE THE DUMPLINGS MAKE THE DUMPLINGS: Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour.

5. Divide the dough into 8 equal pieces. Roll one piece of dough into a rope about inch thick, sprinkling with flour if it gets a little sticky. Cut the rope into -inch lengths. Divide the dough into 8 equal pieces. Roll one piece of dough into a rope about inch thick, sprinkling with flour if it gets a little sticky. Cut the rope into -inch lengths.

6. If you don"t want ridges on your gnocchi, place the cut dough pieces in a single layer on the prepared tray. If you do want ridges, roll each piece along the gnocchi board or along the tines of a fork. Roll the piece along the back of the fork to avoid catching it on the ends of the tines. Repeat with the remaining dough. If you don"t want ridges on your gnocchi, place the cut dough pieces in a single layer on the prepared tray. If you do want ridges, roll each piece along the gnocchi board or along the tines of a fork. Roll the piece along the back of the fork to avoid catching it on the ends of the tines. Repeat with the remaining dough.

7. Set aside the number of gnocchi that you would like to cook and keep the rest frozen for up to 6 months (see TIPS). Set aside the number of gnocchi that you would like to cook and keep the rest frozen for up to 6 months (see TIPS).

8. COOK THE DUMPLINGS COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Fill a large pot halfway with salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer. Fill a large pot halfway with salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer.

9. Carefully drop up to a few dozen gnocchi into the simmering water, a few at a time. Cook until all of them are floating, about 2 minutes, then cook for 2 minutes longer. (If cooking frozen gnocchi, add them directly to the simmering water and increase the cooking time by 1 minute. Do not allow the gnocchi to thaw before cooking.) Carefully drop up to a few dozen gnocchi into the simmering water, a few at a time. Cook until all of them are floating, about 2 minutes, then cook for 2 minutes longer. (If cooking frozen gnocchi, add them directly to the simmering water and increase the cooking time by 1 minute. Do not allow the gnocchi to thaw before cooking.) 10. Remove the gnocchi with a slotted spoon, scatter them on the large plate or tray, and drizzle with a few spoonfuls of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Resting the cooked gnocchi on a roomy plate prevents them from piling up while they set and firm up a bit. Cook the remaining gnocchi in batches, placing them on the plate with another few spoonfuls of the cooking liquid. Set aside cup of the cooking liquid for the sauce. Remove the gnocchi with a slotted spoon, scatter them on the large plate or tray, and drizzle with a few spoonfuls of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Resting the cooked gnocchi on a roomy plate prevents them from piling up while they set and firm up a bit. Cook the remaining gnocchi in batches, placing them on the plate with another few spoonfuls of the cooking liquid. Set aside cup of the cooking liquid for the sauce.

11. Melt the b.u.t.ter in a large skillet over medium heat. Cook until the b.u.t.ter just begins to brown, about 2 minutes. Drain the gnocchi and add them to the b.u.t.ter. Toss and stir gently until the edges just begin to brown. Remove from the heat, mix in the Parmesan, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve. Melt the b.u.t.ter in a large skillet over medium heat. Cook until the b.u.t.ter just begins to brown, about 2 minutes. Drain the gnocchi and add them to the b.u.t.ter. Toss and stir gently until the edges just begin to brown. Remove from the heat, mix in the Parmesan, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve.

POTATO GNOCCHI WITH OXTAIL SAUCE.

Make the Oxtail Sauce (recipe follows). While the sauce is simmering, prepare the gnocchi and cook them in boiling water shortly before they need to be added to the sauce. Or you can make the sauce up to 3 days in advance, keeping it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container. Bring the sauce to a simmer before adding the cooked gnocchi.

OXTAIL SAUCE.

MAKES ABOUT 4 4 CUPS CUPS.

3 tablespoons olive oil2 pounds meaty oxtail pieces3 celery ribs with leaves, chopped fine1 medium yellow onion, chopped fine1 garlic clove, chopped fine5 stems fresh thyme or 1 teaspoon dried cup white wine3 cups Beef Broth6 ripe plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded (see GLOSSARY OF INGREDIENTS), and crushed, or 6 canned plum tomatoes, drained and crushed (about 1 cups)1 teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper5 to 6 cremini mushrooms 1. Heat the oil in a medium pot over medium heat. Add the oxtail pieces in one layer and do not stir until the undersides are golden brown, about 10 minutes. Turn them over and brown the other sides, about 8 minutes longer. Using tongs, move the oxtail to a bowl, leaving behind the oily fat. Add the celery, onion, garlic, and thyme to the pot and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is soft, about 4 minutes. Pour in the wine and sc.r.a.pe up any sticky bits from the bottom of the pot with a wooden spoon. Heat the oil in a medium pot over medium heat. Add the oxtail pieces in one layer and do not stir until the undersides are golden brown, about 10 minutes. Turn them over and brown the other sides, about 8 minutes longer. Using tongs, move the oxtail to a bowl, leaving behind the oily fat. Add the celery, onion, garlic, and thyme to the pot and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is soft, about 4 minutes. Pour in the wine and sc.r.a.pe up any sticky bits from the bottom of the pot with a wooden spoon.

2. Return the oxtail pieces and any drippings to the pot. Pour in the broth. Mix in the tomatoes, salt, and pepper. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 2 to 2 hours. Stir occasionally, adding a little water if the broth reduces below the halfway mark of the oxtail. Return the oxtail pieces and any drippings to the pot. Pour in the broth. Mix in the tomatoes, salt, and pepper. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 2 to 2 hours. Stir occasionally, adding a little water if the broth reduces below the halfway mark of the oxtail.

3. Using tongs, move the oxtail pieces to a bowl and allow them to cool as the sauce continues to simmer. Quarter the mushrooms, mix them into the sauce, cover, and cook for 20 minutes. Using tongs, move the oxtail pieces to a bowl and allow them to cool as the sauce continues to simmer. Quarter the mushrooms, mix them into the sauce, cover, and cook for 20 minutes.

4. Meanwhile, pull the oxtail meat off the bones, discard the bones, and mix the meat back into the sauce. Immediately stir in the cooked gnocchi, cook for 1 minute to heat through, and serve. Meanwhile, pull the oxtail meat off the bones, discard the bones, and mix the meat back into the sauce. Immediately stir in the cooked gnocchi, cook for 1 minute to heat through, and serve.

Marrow Dumplings in Beef Broth Markklosschensuppe (Germany) (Germany) SERVES 4 ( 4 (MAKES ABOUT 24 24 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

Marrow gives these tender bread crumb dumplings a subtle beef flavor and a creamy texture. Beef marrow bones are frequently kept behind the butcher"s counter. Ask for the freshest bones possible, approximately 1 inch thick. Once the bones have warmed to room temperature, you can easily sc.r.a.pe the marrow out with a b.u.t.ter knife or a small spoon. Work carefully and be mindful of the sharp edges or jagged points often found on saw-cut bones. For those who don"t eat veal, know that when you ask for beef marrow bones, it"s often veal bones that are handed over. Be specific if you want mature beef bones.

For the Dumplings4 pounds beef marrow bones, at room temperature2 cups coa.r.s.e dry crustless white bread crumbs (see GLOSSARY OF INGREDIENTS) cup milk1 large egg, beaten teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly grated nutmegUnbleached all-purpose flour for dustingFor the Broth1 recipe (2 quarts) Beef Broth with German FlavorsEquipmentSieve lined with 4 to 6 layers of cheesecloth 1. RENDER THE MARROW RENDER THE MARROW 1 1 HOURS IN ADVANCE HOURS IN ADVANCE: Wipe down the marrow bones with a damp towel. Using a blunt knife, scoop and sc.r.a.pe the marrow out of the bones into a bowl. Place the collected marrow into a small saucepan, place over very low heat, and melt slowly into a clear, oily liquid, 25 to 30 minutes. As the marrow melts, foamy solid bits will naturally separate and become obvious. Remove the saucepan from the heat and strain the hot marrow through the cheesecloth-lined sieve into a gla.s.s bowl. Cover and refrigerate until solid, about 1 hour. (You can also render the marrow in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed gla.s.s container for up to 1 week or frozen for up to 6 months.) Wipe down the marrow bones with a damp towel. Using a blunt knife, scoop and sc.r.a.pe the marrow out of the bones into a bowl. Place the collected marrow into a small saucepan, place over very low heat, and melt slowly into a clear, oily liquid, 25 to 30 minutes. As the marrow melts, foamy solid bits will naturally separate and become obvious. Remove the saucepan from the heat and strain the hot marrow through the cheesecloth-lined sieve into a gla.s.s bowl. Cover and refrigerate until solid, about 1 hour. (You can also render the marrow in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed gla.s.s container for up to 1 week or frozen for up to 6 months.) 2. Remove the marrow from the refrigerator and let it rest until soft and creamy. Remove the marrow from the refrigerator and let it rest until soft and creamy.

3. MAKE THE DOUGH MAKE THE DOUGH: Place 1 cups of the bread crumbs in a medium bowl and keep the remaining 1 cup handy. Stir in the milk. Place 1 cups of the bread crumbs in a medium bowl and keep the remaining 1 cup handy. Stir in the milk.

4. Place the egg and the marrow in another bowl and whisk until the marrow has been distributed evenly throughout the egg. Mix in the salt and nutmeg. Pour the egg mixture over the milk-soaked bread crumbs and mix. You will have a slightly lumpy batter. Place the egg and the marrow in another bowl and whisk until the marrow has been distributed evenly throughout the egg. Mix in the salt and nutmeg. Pour the egg mixture over the milk-soaked bread crumbs and mix. You will have a slightly lumpy batter.

5. Work in some of the remaining bread crumbs, a little at a time, until you have a slightly sticky dough that just holds its shape when rolled into b.a.l.l.s. Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes. Work in some of the remaining bread crumbs, a little at a time, until you have a slightly sticky dough that just holds its shape when rolled into b.a.l.l.s. Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

6. COOK THE DUMPLINGS COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Pour the beef broth into a medium pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low for a gentle simmer. Pour the beef broth into a medium pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low for a gentle simmer.

7. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour.

8. Pinch off a small piece of dough and roll it into a ball about 1 inch around, dust with flour, and place on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remaining dough. Pinch off a small piece of dough and roll it into a ball about 1 inch around, dust with flour, and place on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remaining dough.

9. Carefully drop the dumplings, one by one, into the simmering broth. Cook until all of them are floating, about 2 minutes, then cook for 2 minutes longer, and serve. Carefully drop the dumplings, one by one, into the simmering broth. Cook until all of them are floating, about 2 minutes, then cook for 2 minutes longer, and serve.

Ca.s.sava "Tamales" Stuffed with Pork and Chickpeas Pasteles de Yuca (Puerto Rico) (Puerto Rico) SERVES 6 6 TO TO 12 ( 12 (MAKES 12 12 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

At many Puerto Rican markets or restaurants you can find paper-wrapped pasteles pasteles soaking in pots of steaming liquid. They can be made from banana, plantain, taro, potato, pumpkin, rice, ca.s.sava, or a combination. soaking in pots of steaming liquid. They can be made from banana, plantain, taro, potato, pumpkin, rice, ca.s.sava, or a combination. Pasteles de yuca, Pasteles de yuca, made with ca.s.sava, are distinctly heavy and satisfying, with an intriguing texture, seeming to both crumble and melt around a savory and sweet filling of chickpeas, pork, and raisins. made with ca.s.sava, are distinctly heavy and satisfying, with an intriguing texture, seeming to both crumble and melt around a savory and sweet filling of chickpeas, pork, and raisins.

These dumplings are wrapped using the Diamond in the Square Fold.

For the Achiote Oil cup grapeseed or other neutral oil1/3 cup achiote (annatto) seeds or teaspoon achiote powder cup achiote (annatto) seeds or teaspoon achiote powderFor the Filling cup dried chickpeas, soaked in plenty of water for 6 to 8 hours, or 1 cup canned chickpeas, drained and rinsed1 recipe Sofrito Sofrito (recipe follows) (recipe follows)1 pound boneless pork shoulder, cut into -inch cubes1 tablespoon tomato paste pound unsmoked brine-cured (or wet-cured) ham1 tablespoon drained capers, rinsed12 pimiento-stuffed green olives with 2 tablespoons of the brine cup raisinsSalt to tasteFor the Ca.s.sava Mixture4 pounds ca.s.sava (yuca) cup milkFor a.s.semblyTwelve 10-inch prepared banana-leaf squares (see GLOSSARY OF EQUIPMENT)Twelve 12 15-inch parchment paper sheetsTwelve 20-inch length of kitchen string for tying the pasteles pasteles 1. MAKE THE ACHIOTE OIL MAKE THE ACHIOTE OIL: If using achiote seeds, place the oil and the seeds in a small saucepan and cook over very low heat, stirring occasionally, for 15 minutes. The oil will gradually become dark red in color. Strain the oil through a sieve into a gla.s.s bowl and discard the seeds. Set the oil aside and let it cool to room temperature. If using achiote powder, mix it into the room temperature oil and set aside. (You can also make the achiote oil in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed gla.s.s container for up to 1 month.) If using achiote seeds, place the oil and the seeds in a small saucepan and cook over very low heat, stirring occasionally, for 15 minutes. The oil will gradually become dark red in color. Strain the oil through a sieve into a gla.s.s bowl and discard the seeds. Set the oil aside and let it cool to room temperature. If using achiote powder, mix it into the room temperature oil and set aside. (You can also make the achiote oil in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed gla.s.s container for up to 1 month.) 2. MAKE THE FILLING MAKE THE FILLING: (Skip this step if using canned chickpeas.) Drain the chickpeas and place them in a small pot. Cover with water by 2 inches and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer until the chickpeas are just tender, 1 to 1 hours. (Skip this step if using canned chickpeas.) Drain the chickpeas and place them in a small pot. Cover with water by 2 inches and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer until the chickpeas are just tender, 1 to 1 hours.

3. While the chickpeas are simmering, add half of the achiote oil to a medium pot and heat over high heat. Quickly and carefully pour in the While the chickpeas are simmering, add half of the achiote oil to a medium pot and heat over high heat. Quickly and carefully pour in the sofrito sofrito. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer, stirring frequently, until the sauce thickens and darkens in color, about 6 minutes. Stir in the pork, tomato paste, and cup water. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally, and adding up to cup water if the sauce starts to dry out around the edges of the pan.

4. Drain the chickpeas and stir them into the simmering pork along with the ham, capers, olives, and brine. Cover and cook for 10 minutes longer. Remove from the heat, stir in the raisins, and sprinkle with salt. Scoop everything, including all of the sauce, into a shallow bowl and allow it to cool to room temperature. Drain the chickpeas and stir them into the simmering pork along with the ham, capers, olives, and brine. Cover and cook for 10 minutes longer. Remove from the heat, stir in the raisins, and sprinkle with salt. Scoop everything, including all of the sauce, into a shallow bowl and allow it to cool to room temperature.

5. MAKE THE Ca.s.sAVA MIXTURE MAKE THE Ca.s.sAVA MIXTURE: While the filling is cooling, prepare the ca.s.sava (see GLOSSARY OF INGREDIENTS) and finely grate it onto a kitchen towel. Bring together the ends of the cloth and twist to squeeze out as much of the ca.s.sava juice as you can. The amount of liquid you are squeezing out won"t be much and may simply be absorbed by the cloth. Do this step in batches if it seems more effective. Place the ca.s.sava in a bowl and break it up a little. Add in the remaining achiote oil and the milk and mix well. While the filling is cooling, prepare the ca.s.sava (see GLOSSARY OF INGREDIENTS) and finely grate it onto a kitchen towel. Bring together the ends of the cloth and twist to squeeze out as much of the ca.s.sava juice as you can. The amount of liquid you are squeezing out won"t be much and may simply be absorbed by the cloth. Do this step in batches if it seems more effective. Place the ca.s.sava in a bowl and break it up a little. Add in the remaining achiote oil and the milk and mix well.

6. a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS: Before a.s.sembling the Before a.s.sembling the pasteles, pasteles, review the Diamond in the Square Fold. Instead of using two banana-leaf squares, replace the large square with a piece of parchment paper. The Diamond in the Square Fold is designed to make the most out of the strength of the banana leaf by crisscrossing its fibers. review the Diamond in the Square Fold. Instead of using two banana-leaf squares, replace the large square with a piece of parchment paper. The Diamond in the Square Fold is designed to make the most out of the strength of the banana leaf by crisscrossing its fibers.

7. Line a tray with a kitchen towel. Have ready the ca.s.sava mixture, the filling, the parchment and banana-leaf squares, and their ties. Line a tray with a kitchen towel. Have ready the ca.s.sava mixture, the filling, the parchment and banana-leaf squares, and their ties.

8. Lay flat 1 parchment paper square and place a banana-leaf square, smooth side up, diagonally on top of it. Center 2 rounded tablespoons of the ca.s.sava mixture on top of the leaf and spread it out into a 4-inch square. Place 2 rounded tablespoons of filling on top of the ca.s.sava mixture. Try to distribute the filling so that there is an olive in each package. Top with another 2 tablespoons of the ca.s.sava. Fold over one corner of the stacked paper and leaf, then fold over the opposite corner. Fold the ends over as firmly as you can to create a neat, rectangular package. Tie to secure the folds, place on the tray, and repeat the a.s.sembly until you have 12 packages. Lay flat 1 parchment paper square and place a banana-leaf square, smooth side up, diagonally on top of it. Center 2 rounded tablespoons of the ca.s.sava mixture on top of the leaf and spread it out into a 4-inch square. Place 2 rounded tablespoons of filling on top of the ca.s.sava mixture. Try to distribute the filling so that there is an olive in each package. Top with another 2 tablespoons of the ca.s.sava. Fold over one corner of the stacked paper and leaf, then fold over the opposite corner. Fold the ends over as firmly as you can to create a neat, rectangular package. Tie to secure the folds, place on the tray, and repeat the a.s.sembly until you have 12 packages.

9. COOK THE DUMPLINGS COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Fill a large pot three-quarters of the way with water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer. Gently drop the packages, one at a time, into the water. They will pile up, which is fine as long as the top layer is covered by at least 1 inch of water. Cover and simmer for 45 minutes. Fill a large pot three-quarters of the way with water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer. Gently drop the packages, one at a time, into the water. They will pile up, which is fine as long as the top layer is covered by at least 1 inch of water. Cover and simmer for 45 minutes.

10. Remove the Remove the pasteles pasteles with tongs and place in a colander to drain. Allow them to cool slightly, cut off the strings, and serve. It"s best not to open the packages too soon, and to peel back the paper and leaf just before eating, so that they stay moist and warm. with tongs and place in a colander to drain. Allow them to cool slightly, cut off the strings, and serve. It"s best not to open the packages too soon, and to peel back the paper and leaf just before eating, so that they stay moist and warm. Pasteles Pasteles can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen (unopened) for up to 6 months (see TIPS). Reheat the can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen (unopened) for up to 6 months (see TIPS). Reheat the pasteles pasteles in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (TIPS). If reheating frozen in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (TIPS). If reheating frozen pasteles pasteles, allow them to thaw before steaming.

SOFRITO.

MAKES ABOUT 1 1 CUP CUP.

1 large green bell pepper, chopped coa.r.s.e1 small yellow onion, chopped coa.r.s.e cup coa.r.s.ely chopped fresh cilantro stems and leaves3 garlic cloves, chopped coa.r.s.e2 small sweet ajicito ajicito chiles or 1 cubanelle chile, cored and seeded chiles or 1 cubanelle chile, cored and seeded4 culantro (recao) leaves, trimmed, or another cup coa.r.s.ely chopped cilantro1 tablespoon fresh oregano leaves3 tablespoons olive oil Pulse all the ingredients in a food processor until the mixture is light and pulpy. Use immediately or store in a tightly sealed container for up to 1 week in the refrigerator or keep frozen for up to 6 months.

Pounded Rice Dumplings Mochi (j.a.pan) (j.a.pan) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 8 ( 8 (MAKES 8 8 SMALL DUMPLINGS SMALL DUMPLINGS).

Mochi is one of the great wonders of j.a.panese cooking and a New Year"s tradition that requires impressive amounts of physical labor. Mounds of steamed sweet, sticky (glutinous) rice are pounded into a smooth, dense, marshmallowy textured treat. We"ve made the process easier by grinding the rice before steaming it, which shortens the pounding time considerably. There are electric is one of the great wonders of j.a.panese cooking and a New Year"s tradition that requires impressive amounts of physical labor. Mounds of steamed sweet, sticky (glutinous) rice are pounded into a smooth, dense, marshmallowy textured treat. We"ve made the process easier by grinding the rice before steaming it, which shortens the pounding time considerably. There are electric mochi mochi-making machines that are about the size of a bread maker, and they are a good investment if you plan to make it often. However, taking the time to pound the rice yourself is the best way to satisfy the occasional indulgence for mochi mochi.

Because fresh mochi mochi is so very soft and sticky, it is not recommended for small children. is so very soft and sticky, it is not recommended for small children.

For the Mochi1 cup j.a.panese short-grain sweet (glutinous) white rice (mochi gome), coa.r.s.ely ground in a clean spice or coffee grinder and soaked in plenty of water for 30 minutes cup potato starch (katakuriko)For Serving2 tablespoons soy sauce, sugar, or roasted soybean powder (kinako)Equipment8- to 10-quart steamer pot24-inch square of muslinLarge st.u.r.dy wooden bowl and a large pestle or meat pounder for pounding the mochi mochi 1. Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Soak the muslin under running water, wring it out, then drape it inside the basket, creating a lining. Drain the ground rice, scoop it into the lined basket, and spread it out evenly. Place the basket in the pot, reduce the heat to medium, cover, and steam for 40 minutes. Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Soak the muslin under running water, wring it out, then drape it inside the basket, creating a lining. Drain the ground rice, scoop it into the lined basket, and spread it out evenly. Place the basket in the pot, reduce the heat to medium, cover, and steam for 40 minutes.

2. Remove the pot from the heat and let the rice rest in the steamer for 5 minutes. Using the muslin liner, lift the rice out of the basket and turn it into the bowl. The bowl must be roomy enough for you to pound the rice freely without spilling. Using the pestle or meat pounder, begin to pound the rice steadily. Continue pounding until the rice is smooth (or mostly smooth), bouncy, and very sticky, about 10 minutes. If the Remove the pot from the heat and let the rice rest in the steamer for 5 minutes. Using the muslin liner, lift the rice out of the basket and turn it into the bowl. The bowl must be roomy enough for you to pound the rice freely without spilling. Using the pestle or meat pounder, begin to pound the rice steadily. Continue pounding until the rice is smooth (or mostly smooth), bouncy, and very sticky, about 10 minutes. If the mochi mochi is too dry and firm to pound effectively, add some warm water and continue pounding. is too dry and firm to pound effectively, add some warm water and continue pounding.

3. Sprinkle the potato starch over a work surface. Wet your hands and move the Sprinkle the potato starch over a work surface. Wet your hands and move the mochi mochi onto the starched surface. Now dry your hands and lightly knead the onto the starched surface. Now dry your hands and lightly knead the mochi mochi into the starch until it is no longer exceedingly sticky to the touch. Divide into 8 equal pieces, roll into b.a.l.l.s, and serve with a little soy sauce, sugar, or soybean powder. into the starch until it is no longer exceedingly sticky to the touch. Divide into 8 equal pieces, roll into b.a.l.l.s, and serve with a little soy sauce, sugar, or soybean powder.

If using the mochi mochi to make to make Ozoni Ozoni (recipe follows), divide it into 8 equal pieces, roll into b.a.l.l.s, cover with a damp towel, and set aside until the dumplings are ready to be toasted. (recipe follows), divide it into 8 equal pieces, roll into b.a.l.l.s, cover with a damp towel, and set aside until the dumplings are ready to be toasted.

If using the mochi mochi to make to make Ichigo Daif.u.ku Ichigo Daif.u.ku (May), divide it into 12 equal pieces, roll into b.a.l.l.s, and keep them covered with a damp towel until the dumplings are ready to be a.s.sembled. (May), divide it into 12 equal pieces, roll into b.a.l.l.s, and keep them covered with a damp towel until the dumplings are ready to be a.s.sembled.

New Year"s Day Soup with Pounded Rice Dumplings Ozoni (j.a.pan) (j.a.pan) SERVES 8 ( 8 (MAKES 8 8 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

Ozoni is a New Year"s seafood soup defined by the sweet rice dumplings that are toasted and added to the soup just before serving. These pounded rice dumplings, or is a New Year"s seafood soup defined by the sweet rice dumplings that are toasted and added to the soup just before serving. These pounded rice dumplings, or mochi mochi, offer a soft, taffylike chew and a clean, refreshing flavor within the aged, darker flavors of the broth. Dashi Dashi is not a time-consuming broth, made essentially by steeping pieces of kelp and bonito flakes in hot water. is not a time-consuming broth, made essentially by steeping pieces of kelp and bonito flakes in hot water. Kamaboko Kamaboko is also a vital component of the soup. Made from a white fish paste that"s been steamed into slender loaves, is also a vital component of the soup. Made from a white fish paste that"s been steamed into slender loaves, kamaboko kamaboko are firm fish cakes that can be sliced and added to soups and other dishes. are firm fish cakes that can be sliced and added to soups and other dishes.

Because fresh mochi mochi is so very soft and sticky, it is not recommended for small children. is so very soft and sticky, it is not recommended for small children.

For the SoupTwo 5-inch squares dried kelp (kombu), gently rinsed1 cup loosely packed bonito flakes (katsuobushi)4 skinless chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s or thighs, trimmed of excess fat1 small daikon radish, peeled and sliced into sixteen 1 1/8-inch rounds1 teaspoon soy sauce1 teaspoons salt1 small carrot, cut into 1 1/8-inch rounds8 fresh shiitake mushroom capsOne 7-ounce fish cake (kamaboko), cut into 16 equal slices1 small bunch mizuna mizuna or watercress, stemmed and rinsed or watercress, stemmed and rinsed2 teaspoons dried yuzu yuzu rind or grated lemon zest rind or grated lemon zest2 scallions, trimmed and sliced into thin ringsFor the Dumplings1 recipe Mochi Mochi (Pounded Rice Dumplings), divided evenly into 8 pieces and rolled into b.a.l.l.s (preferably made no more than 4 hours in advance) (Pounded Rice Dumplings), divided evenly into 8 pieces and rolled into b.a.l.l.s (preferably made no more than 4 hours in advance)EquipmentSieve lined with 2 to 4 layers of cheesecloth 1. MAKE THE BROTH MAKE THE BROTH: Pour 10 cups water into a medium pot. Add the kelp and soak at room temperature for 15 to 20 minutes. Place the pot over high heat. As soon as the broth begins to simmer, stir in the bonito flakes and immediately remove from the heat. Cover and let the broth steep for 10 minutes. Strain the broth through the cheesecloth-lined sieve into a large bowl and clean the pot. Pour the broth back into the pot and set aside. Pour 10 cups water into a medium pot. Add the kelp and soak at room temperature for 15 to 20 minutes. Place the pot over high heat. As soon as the broth begins to simmer, stir in the bonito flakes and immediately remove from the heat. Cover and let the broth steep for 10 minutes. Strain the broth through the cheesecloth-lined sieve into a large bowl and clean the pot. Pour the broth back into the pot and set aside.

2. Pour 2 cups water into a medium pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Arrange the chicken in the pot in a single layer, cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 10 minutes. Turn the chicken over, cover again, and cook for 5 minutes longer. Remove from the heat. Move the chicken with a slotted spoon to a plate to cool. Strain the chicken broth through the cheesecloth-lined sieve into a medium bowl. Pour 2 cups water into a medium pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Arrange the chicken in the pot in a single layer, cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 10 minutes. Turn the chicken over, cover again, and cook for 5 minutes longer. Remove from the heat. Move the chicken with a slotted spoon to a plate to cool. Strain the chicken broth through the cheesecloth-lined sieve into a medium bowl.

3. MAKE THE SOUP MAKE THE SOUP: Pour the chicken broth into the kelp broth and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the daikon, soy sauce, and salt. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 10 minutes. Pour the chicken broth into the kelp broth and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the daikon, soy sauce, and salt. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 10 minutes.

4. Meanwhile, pull the chicken meat off the bones and tear it into bite-sized pieces. Once the daikon has finished cooking, stir in the chicken, carrot, mushrooms, and fish cake slices and cook for 5 minutes longer. Reduce the heat to very, very low to keep the soup hot while you toast the Meanwhile, pull the chicken meat off the bones and tear it into bite-sized pieces. Once the daikon has finished cooking, stir in the chicken, carrot, mushrooms, and fish cake slices and cook for 5 minutes longer. Reduce the heat to very, very low to keep the soup hot while you toast the mochi mochi. (You can also make the soup up to 3 days in advance and keep it tightly covered in the refrigerator.) 5. TOAST THE DUMPLINGS TOAST THE DUMPLINGS: Slowly heat a dry, heavy grill pan or skillet over medium heat. Arrange the b.a.l.l.s of Slowly heat a dry, heavy grill pan or skillet over medium heat. Arrange the b.a.l.l.s of mochi mochi in the pan, leaving about 1 inch of s.p.a.ce around each. The in the pan, leaving about 1 inch of s.p.a.ce around each. The mochi mochi will soften and spread out as they cook. Toast until the bottoms are golden brown and crisp, about 5 minutes. You must let them brown before turning them or they might tear. Using a small spatula or a b.u.t.ter knife, carefully lift and turn them to toast the other sides. Place 1 toasted will soften and spread out as they cook. Toast until the bottoms are golden brown and crisp, about 5 minutes. You must let them brown before turning them or they might tear. Using a small spatula or a b.u.t.ter knife, carefully lift and turn them to toast the other sides. Place 1 toasted mochi mochi in each soup bowl. in each soup bowl.

6. FINISH THE SOUP FINISH THE SOUP: Bring the soup back to a simmer over medium heat. Stir in the Bring the soup back to a simmer over medium heat. Stir in the mizuna mizuna and the and the yuzu yuzu and cook for 2 minutes. Ladle the hot soup over the and cook for 2 minutes. Ladle the hot soup over the mochi mochi along with a good mixture of the soup ingredients. Serve with a sprinkle of scallions. along with a good mixture of the soup ingredients. Serve with a sprinkle of scallions.FebruarySPOON-DROPPED SEMOLINA DUMPLINGS.

Kletski (Russia) (Russia) CHOCOLATE BREAD CRUMB PUDDING.

(England) MILK-STEAMED BUNS WITH VANILLA CUSTARD SAUCE.

Dampfnudeln (Germany) (Germany) CLOUD-SHAPED BREAD BUNS.

Ting Momo (Tibet) (Tibet) STEAMED BREAD LOAVES STUFFED WITH STICKY FRIED RICE.

Nuo Mi Juan (China) (China) POTATO DUMPLINGS STUFFED WITH HAM.