The Dumpling.

A Seasonal Guide.

by Wai Hon Chu and Connie Lovatt.

Introduction.

This book is about traditional dumplings and the simple pleasures they can bring into your kitchen.

Dumplings embody the foundations of good cooking: ingredients that make the most of the seasons, time-honored techniques, and an open mind. Because most dumplings are made by hand, they pull you deeper into the craft of cooking by emphasizing the value of intuition and the benefits of learning through trial and error.

Much as with recipes for bread, pastry, pasta and noodles, pancakes, biscuits, and cakes, traditional dumpling recipes create delicious mainstays loaded with character and charm. What we hope to demonstrate with this book is the reality that, despite their similarities to other dough- or batter-based creations, dumplings are in a category all their own.

So, what makes a dumpling a dumpling? Is an empanada a dumpling? Is a fritter? Every definition we have come across presents a slightly different view. After exploring a thousand different dishes normally considered to be dumplings, it became clear to us that their ident.i.ties revolved around two key traits: They are made out of some kind of dough, batter, or starchy plant foundation, and they are either steamed, simmered, or boiled.

It"s the use of wet heat that gets to the heart of what a dumpling really is, even if the basic ingredients are similar to what makes up bread, pastry, and pancakes. Baking, frying, and other dry-heat methods of cooking bestow a distinctive crust, rich with caramelized flavors. In contrast, the characteristic softness and clean taste that dumplings develop through wet heat cooking is what makes them so distinctive and special.

In this light, we do not see empanadas or fritters as true dumplings, even if they are occasionally referred to that way, because they are baked or fried. And while fish b.a.l.l.s, meatb.a.l.l.s, and cheese b.a.l.l.s look like dumplings, and are prepared by similar methods, they are not included in this book because they are not primarily based on starchy ingredients.

While dumplings come in many forms, not just "round" or "filled," they are not shaped as strands, or ribbons, as are pastas and noodles.

After working with hundreds of recipes for dumplings from around the world, our ideas of dumplings had expanded to include them in all their magnificent variety, and it also allowed us to refine our view into the following definition: A dumpling is a portion of dough, batter, or starchy plant fare, solid or filled, that is cooked through wet heat, and is not a strand or ribbon.

We prepared dumplings from well over eight hundred recipes before compiling this collection. We envisioned the book to include not only American favorites such as chicken and dumplings and blueberry grunt but also dumplings from Europe, South America, and every other part of the world where dumplings are enjoyed. We wanted layered tapioca dumplings from Thailand and lavishly topped rice dumplings from Vietnam. We wanted Middle Eastern dumplings smothered in rich sauces and oil-slicked chickpea dumplings from India. We could not leave out stuffed plantain dumplings found only in Peru, or freshly pounded mochi mochi from j.a.pan, with its marshmallow bite and sticky texture. from j.a.pan, with its marshmallow bite and sticky texture.

We bring you dumplings that are hallmarks of particular regions or cuisines, such as the generously spiced Christmas pudding from England, the tamale from Mexico, and the hearty momo momo from Tibet. from Tibet.

Nor have we neglected dumplings like matzo b.a.l.l.s and pierogi, which transcend their regional origins and are eaten around the world. Our recipes for favorites such as these are popular but lesser-known versions, not often included in many cookbooks.

The 135 dumplings that follow, and the 60 soups, stews, and sauces in which they"re cooked, are all traditional-adapted only as necessary for modern kitchen equipment and ingredients. You will find a detailed glossary of ingredients, equipment, tips, and diagrams to help simplify even the most demanding recipes. That being said, we strongly encourage you to use your hands, and not machines, when you roll out the dough that certain dumplings require. Of course, you can always use a pasta machine for dough that has to be rolled out thin, but using a rolling pin connects you more directly to the dough.

Our month-by-month arrangement of the recipes is based on our experiences and preferences and is not meant to be a fixed timeline. Certainly an "August" dumpling can be made in February, but we think you might find it to be at its most excellent in August. One reason is that many of our recipes feature seasonal ingredients that are best at their natural peak, even if they may be available year-round in your market. Some dumplings are especially suitable for certain months when the weather mimics the climate or traditional serving season of the dumpling"s home. Spicy dumplings from central Vietnam are great on hot days, while several rich dessert dumplings from England are best during the colder months. Of course, holiday dumplings are placed at the appropriate time of year.

Within each chapter, the recipes have been arranged in order from the easiest to the most challenging. The more demanding dumpling recipes require a degree of orderliness. Certain dumpling recipes have multiple components that must be prepared separately and then a.s.sembled together to create the final dish. Filling and folding several dozen dumplings is not a casual operation, but it can easily become a relaxing and enriching way to spend your time if your ingredients are sorted out, your works.p.a.ce is clear, and you have allowed yourself plenty of time. No matter what your level of expertise is in the kitchen, we hope that these recipes will encourage you to try your hand at creating dumplings that are as enjoyable to make as they are to eat. There may be techniques and ingredients in this book that are unfamiliar to you, but this does not mean that you will not be able to understand them, apply what you already know as you work, and make a fantastic batch of dumplings.

Glossary of Ingredients

This book is as much about quality ingredients as it is about dumplings. Shopping seasonally and as close as possible to the food"s source ensures not only that you"ll go home with a better product but also that you"ll be more apt to support smaller, more sustainable farms. Farmers who provide their animals with a natural diet, and with plenty of light, air, and s.p.a.ce, nurture not only the health of their animals but their customers" health as well. The following ingredients either play a central role in this book or make occasional appearances but merit further description.

BEANS: Dried beans are simple and st.u.r.dy and can be made into satisfying dumplings at any time of year. Bean dumplings are usually made by grinding soaked dried beans into a pasty batter before cooking. In India, spoonfuls are fried before being simmered in stews and sauces. Other, similar batters are steamed in molds and pans. Canned beans are too soft to make into dumpling doughs and batters, but they are perfectly acceptable when added to soups, stews, and sauces. Be sure to rinse canned beans thoroughly before adding them to other ingredients. Some of the beans used in this book include kidney beans, cranberry (or Dried beans are simple and st.u.r.dy and can be made into satisfying dumplings at any time of year. Bean dumplings are usually made by grinding soaked dried beans into a pasty batter before cooking. In India, spoonfuls are fried before being simmered in stews and sauces. Other, similar batters are steamed in molds and pans. Canned beans are too soft to make into dumpling doughs and batters, but they are perfectly acceptable when added to soups, stews, and sauces. Be sure to rinse canned beans thoroughly before adding them to other ingredients. Some of the beans used in this book include kidney beans, cranberry (or borlotti borlotti) beans, chickpeas, black-eyed peas, mung beans, and adzuki beans. Mung bean sprouts are also used in some Asian dumplings.

BREAD: Bread has long been incorporated into dumpling making throughout Europe, especially in England, Germany, Italy, and the Czech Republic. If you are new to dumpling making (or just learning how to cook in general), bread dumplings are good beginner"s recipes because they are easy to make. The simplest ones involve little more than soaking bread cubes or bread crumbs in eggs and shaping them into b.a.l.l.s to be boiled. Hardly any kneading is involved. Bread is a very flexible ingredient because there are so many kinds you can work with. While most of the bread dumplings in this book call for a standard loaf of eggless white bread, you can subst.i.tute whole grain bread if you want a different flavor or a less processed alternative. Bread has long been incorporated into dumpling making throughout Europe, especially in England, Germany, Italy, and the Czech Republic. If you are new to dumpling making (or just learning how to cook in general), bread dumplings are good beginner"s recipes because they are easy to make. The simplest ones involve little more than soaking bread cubes or bread crumbs in eggs and shaping them into b.a.l.l.s to be boiled. Hardly any kneading is involved. Bread is a very flexible ingredient because there are so many kinds you can work with. While most of the bread dumplings in this book call for a standard loaf of eggless white bread, you can subst.i.tute whole grain bread if you want a different flavor or a less processed alternative.

Choosing your bread. When buying bread, try to find the freshest loaf possible that is free of preservatives. Preservative-filled doughs rob the loaf or bun of its natural cycle: a soft freshness, then a firm staleness, and then a brittle dryness. Breads made with preservatives, like those found at most supermarkets, are more likely to mold before changing texture for you, making them useless for most bread cubes or bread crumbs. All-natural loaves, or rolls that are freshly made, are not only better for eating but also better for dumpling recipes. Crusty breads, such as ciabatta or baguettes, will stay fresh for no more than a day. Sandwich loaves can last a day or two longer before they stale. When buying bread, try to find the freshest loaf possible that is free of preservatives. Preservative-filled doughs rob the loaf or bun of its natural cycle: a soft freshness, then a firm staleness, and then a brittle dryness. Breads made with preservatives, like those found at most supermarkets, are more likely to mold before changing texture for you, making them useless for most bread cubes or bread crumbs. All-natural loaves, or rolls that are freshly made, are not only better for eating but also better for dumpling recipes. Crusty breads, such as ciabatta or baguettes, will stay fresh for no more than a day. Sandwich loaves can last a day or two longer before they stale.

Cutting off the crusts: When using up leftover bread for dumplings, it is best to remove the crust for a more even texture and neutral taste. Use a serrated knife to trim off the crust while the bread is still somewhat soft. If the bread is already dry, grating off the crust, which can be messy, is a fast and somewhat satisfying project similar to sculpting or sanding. When using up leftover bread for dumplings, it is best to remove the crust for a more even texture and neutral taste. Use a serrated knife to trim off the crust while the bread is still somewhat soft. If the bread is already dry, grating off the crust, which can be messy, is a fast and somewhat satisfying project similar to sculpting or sanding.

Bread crumbs. Bread crumbs have a huge capacity to soak up liquids. There is a noticeable difference between a dough or batter of bread crumbs that has been soaking for 10 minutes and one that has soaked for 30 minutes. They also make soft, creamy dumpling fillings when flavored with rich broths or combined with other ingredients. Bread crumbs have a huge capacity to soak up liquids. There is a noticeable difference between a dough or batter of bread crumbs that has been soaking for 10 minutes and one that has soaked for 30 minutes. They also make soft, creamy dumpling fillings when flavored with rich broths or combined with other ingredients.

To make fresh bread crumbs: Remove the crust from a piece of stale bread and grate it through the medium or large holes of a box grater. Remove the crust from a piece of stale bread and grate it through the medium or large holes of a box grater.

For dry bread crumbs: Allow the fresh bread crumbs to dry completely in a 200F oven for 15 to 20 minutes or finely grate a dry piece of bread on a box grater. Allow the fresh bread crumbs to dry completely in a 200F oven for 15 to 20 minutes or finely grate a dry piece of bread on a box grater.

Bread cubes. Small bread cubes (or croutons) are a useful ingredient in dumpling making, whether they are soaked and reshaped into b.a.l.l.s, formed into loaves, or fried and stuffed into the center of a potato dumpling. Small bread cubes (or croutons) are a useful ingredient in dumpling making, whether they are soaked and reshaped into b.a.l.l.s, formed into loaves, or fried and stuffed into the center of a potato dumpling.

To make bread cubes: Remove the crust from a piece of fresh or stale bread and cut the bread into -inch to 1-inch cubes using a serrated knife. Remove the crust from a piece of fresh or stale bread and cut the bread into -inch to 1-inch cubes using a serrated knife.

For dry bread cubes: Arrange the bread cubes in a single layer on a baking sheet and allow them to dry completely in a 200F oven for 20 to 25 minutes. Arrange the bread cubes in a single layer on a baking sheet and allow them to dry completely in a 200F oven for 20 to 25 minutes.

Fried bread crumbs. Bread crumbs fried in b.u.t.ter are used frequently as a topping or coating for pierogi and several other European dumplings. They add a satisfying crunch to soft, succulent dumplings. Bread crumbs fried in b.u.t.ter are used frequently as a topping or coating for pierogi and several other European dumplings. They add a satisfying crunch to soft, succulent dumplings.

To fry bread crumbs: For each cup of dried bread crumbs, use 1 tablespoon of unsalted b.u.t.ter. Melt the b.u.t.ter in a skillet over medium heat. Add the bread crumbs and stir continuously until they are golden brown and crispy. Serve immediately or cool to room temperature on a paper-towel-lined plate. For each cup of dried bread crumbs, use 1 tablespoon of unsalted b.u.t.ter. Melt the b.u.t.ter in a skillet over medium heat. Add the bread crumbs and stir continuously until they are golden brown and crispy. Serve immediately or cool to room temperature on a paper-towel-lined plate.

CABBAGE: Cabbage is widely used in numerous European and Asian dumplings. Green cabbage, Savoy cabbage, bok choy, napa cabbage, and kohlrabi are all used as dumpling fillings, as are fermented cabbages such as sauerkraut and kimchee. Cabbage is often paired with dumplings in other ways, as a side or in soups. Cabbage is widely used in numerous European and Asian dumplings. Green cabbage, Savoy cabbage, bok choy, napa cabbage, and kohlrabi are all used as dumpling fillings, as are fermented cabbages such as sauerkraut and kimchee. Cabbage is often paired with dumplings in other ways, as a side or in soups.

Ca.s.sAVA: This yamlike root, also known as yuca or manioc, has a barklike skin (often coated in wax for market) and milky white flesh. It is a staple in African, South American, Philippine, and Caribbean cooking. Like the potato, ca.s.sava can be grated raw and cooked into dense, chewy dumplings, or it can be cooked, mashed, and made into softer, more cakelike dumplings. This yamlike root, also known as yuca or manioc, has a barklike skin (often coated in wax for market) and milky white flesh. It is a staple in African, South American, Philippine, and Caribbean cooking. Like the potato, ca.s.sava can be grated raw and cooked into dense, chewy dumplings, or it can be cooked, mashed, and made into softer, more cakelike dumplings.

Choosing your ca.s.sava. There are two main types of ca.s.sava (bitter and sweet), but only the sweet variety is sold whole in the United States. We use sweet ca.s.sava in all of our recipes and it is available at Caribbean or Asian food markets and in the produce section of some supermarkets. Peeled and frozen ca.s.sava can also be found at some supermarkets and can be used as a component in soups and stews, but we don"t recommend using frozen ca.s.sava as a subst.i.tute for fresh ca.s.sava in dumpling dough or batter recipes. Bitter ca.s.sava is toxic when raw and is often made into flour or coa.r.s.e meal, using a careful process that takes days, in which the root is soaked to leach out the toxins and then sun-dried and ground. It is generally not available in the United States. There are two main types of ca.s.sava (bitter and sweet), but only the sweet variety is sold whole in the United States. We use sweet ca.s.sava in all of our recipes and it is available at Caribbean or Asian food markets and in the produce section of some supermarkets. Peeled and frozen ca.s.sava can also be found at some supermarkets and can be used as a component in soups and stews, but we don"t recommend using frozen ca.s.sava as a subst.i.tute for fresh ca.s.sava in dumpling dough or batter recipes. Bitter ca.s.sava is toxic when raw and is often made into flour or coa.r.s.e meal, using a careful process that takes days, in which the root is soaked to leach out the toxins and then sun-dried and ground. It is generally not available in the United States.

Preparing the ca.s.sava: Since the ca.s.sava"s skin is so thick and woody, you will need to peel it with a knife. Be sure you remove not only the waxy brown bark but also a barely distinguishable "second skin" that lies between the skin and the flesh of the ca.s.sava. This second skin is fine to eat, but it cooks up into an unappetizing shade of gray. After the ca.s.sava is peeled, quarter the flesh lengthwise and pull or cut out any tough or more fibrous strands from its center. Since the ca.s.sava"s skin is so thick and woody, you will need to peel it with a knife. Be sure you remove not only the waxy brown bark but also a barely distinguishable "second skin" that lies between the skin and the flesh of the ca.s.sava. This second skin is fine to eat, but it cooks up into an unappetizing shade of gray. After the ca.s.sava is peeled, quarter the flesh lengthwise and pull or cut out any tough or more fibrous strands from its center.

Tapioca. Tapioca pearls and tapioca flour (also called tapioca starch) are made from ca.s.sava and are used prominently in Southeast Asian dumplings. Tapioca pearls come in different sizes and colors and can be found at Asian food markets and supermarkets. Tapioca flour adds a distinctive jellied bite to dumplings and can be found in most supermarkets. Tapioca pearls and tapioca flour (also called tapioca starch) are made from ca.s.sava and are used prominently in Southeast Asian dumplings. Tapioca pearls come in different sizes and colors and can be found at Asian food markets and supermarkets. Tapioca flour adds a distinctive jellied bite to dumplings and can be found in most supermarkets.

COCONUT: Coconut milk and grated coconut are used regularly in many Indian and Southeast Asian dumpling recipes. Grating your own coconut and making fresh coconut milk takes some time, but the results are stunning. Whole coconuts are available at different degrees of maturity. Young coconuts are valued for their soft, silky flesh and tantalizing light "coconut water," while mature coconuts offer up a firm, thick flesh with a much more concentrated flavor. Brown and hairy mature coconuts are the ones used for shredding and squeezing coconut milk. It"s important to buy coconuts from stores that sell them often. Coconuts that sit around can turn moldy on the inside. Shake the coconut and listen for a faint sloshing sound. If the liquid sloshes conspicuously, or not at all, that may be a sign of a coconut that is just too old. We learned to buy two coconuts for every one called for in a recipe, in case one was a dud. Coconut milk and grated coconut are used regularly in many Indian and Southeast Asian dumpling recipes. Grating your own coconut and making fresh coconut milk takes some time, but the results are stunning. Whole coconuts are available at different degrees of maturity. Young coconuts are valued for their soft, silky flesh and tantalizing light "coconut water," while mature coconuts offer up a firm, thick flesh with a much more concentrated flavor. Brown and hairy mature coconuts are the ones used for shredding and squeezing coconut milk. It"s important to buy coconuts from stores that sell them often. Coconuts that sit around can turn moldy on the inside. Shake the coconut and listen for a faint sloshing sound. If the liquid sloshes conspicuously, or not at all, that may be a sign of a coconut that is just too old. We learned to buy two coconuts for every one called for in a recipe, in case one was a dud.

Cracking the coconut: There are many ways to crack open a coconut, and none of them is very elegant. This quick method works best for us: Wrap one coconut in three or four layers of paper towels (you could also use a kitchen towel and rinse it out afterward) and place it inside a st.u.r.dy plastic shopping bag or a comparable sack (double up on the bags if needed). Find a good hard surface to whack the coconut against, indoors or outdoors. Grip the bag a few inches above the coconut and slap it as hard as you can against the surface. Do this a few times, even after you hear it crack open, so you can loosen the meat and break the coconut apart into a few manageable pieces. Unwrap the pieces and rinse them off in a bowl of cool water. There are many ways to crack open a coconut, and none of them is very elegant. This quick method works best for us: Wrap one coconut in three or four layers of paper towels (you could also use a kitchen towel and rinse it out afterward) and place it inside a st.u.r.dy plastic shopping bag or a comparable sack (double up on the bags if needed). Find a good hard surface to whack the coconut against, indoors or outdoors. Grip the bag a few inches above the coconut and slap it as hard as you can against the surface. Do this a few times, even after you hear it crack open, so you can loosen the meat and break the coconut apart into a few manageable pieces. Unwrap the pieces and rinse them off in a bowl of cool water.

Removing the flesh: Fold up a kitchen towel and use it to hold a shard of coconut in one hand. Slide a st.u.r.dy and-we cannot emphasize this enough- Fold up a kitchen towel and use it to hold a shard of coconut in one hand. Slide a st.u.r.dy and-we cannot emphasize this enough-blunt knife in between the sh.e.l.l and the flesh as far as you can while still being able to twist the knife. This twisting motion should pop the coconut meat out. Some coconuts will be easier to work with than others. Take your time and use extra care in handling the sharp edges of the coconut sh.e.l.l. Once all the meat has been removed, peel off the brown skin with a vegetable peeler. Rinse off the peeled pieces in a bowl of cool water. If you are not using them immediately, peeled pieces of coconut can be kept in a bowl covered with a damp towel for up to 2 days in the refrigerator. knife in between the sh.e.l.l and the flesh as far as you can while still being able to twist the knife. This twisting motion should pop the coconut meat out. Some coconuts will be easier to work with than others. Take your time and use extra care in handling the sharp edges of the coconut sh.e.l.l. Once all the meat has been removed, peel off the brown skin with a vegetable peeler. Rinse off the peeled pieces in a bowl of cool water. If you are not using them immediately, peeled pieces of coconut can be kept in a bowl covered with a damp towel for up to 2 days in the refrigerator.

Grating the coconut: Grate the coconut pieces over a board or a cloth through the large or medium holes of a box grater. Measure out enough coconut for your recipe and keep the rest tightly packed and refrigerated for up to 2 days or frozen for up to a month. If making dried, grated coconut, spread the coconut out on a large sheet tray and bake in a 200F oven for 15 to 20 minutes. One large coconut should make 4 cups of freshly grated coconut or, after baking, 2 cups of dried coconut. Grate the coconut pieces over a board or a cloth through the large or medium holes of a box grater. Measure out enough coconut for your recipe and keep the rest tightly packed and refrigerated for up to 2 days or frozen for up to a month. If making dried, grated coconut, spread the coconut out on a large sheet tray and bake in a 200F oven for 15 to 20 minutes. One large coconut should make 4 cups of freshly grated coconut or, after baking, 2 cups of dried coconut.

Making fresh coconut milk: Put the meat of one grated coconut (or the meat of one coconut that has been cut into small chunks) into a blender. Pour in cup of room-temperature water, preferably nonchlorinated water, such as distilled or spring water, and blend for 1 minute. Add another cup of water and blend until it is mixed evenly and milky, about 1 minute longer. Strain the coconut milk through a st.u.r.dy sieve, pressing down on the coconut and squeezing out as much liquid as you can. You should have just about 2 cups of fresh coconut milk. Use coconut milk shortly after it has been made. If left to sit for an hour or two, it can begin to separate (see "Collecting the Coconut Cream," below). Put the meat of one grated coconut (or the meat of one coconut that has been cut into small chunks) into a blender. Pour in cup of room-temperature water, preferably nonchlorinated water, such as distilled or spring water, and blend for 1 minute. Add another cup of water and blend until it is mixed evenly and milky, about 1 minute longer. Strain the coconut milk through a st.u.r.dy sieve, pressing down on the coconut and squeezing out as much liquid as you can. You should have just about 2 cups of fresh coconut milk. Use coconut milk shortly after it has been made. If left to sit for an hour or two, it can begin to separate (see "Collecting the Coconut Cream," below).

Making the most out of your coconut: The squeezed-out coconut can be used for a second pressing by reblending it with the same amount of water. This second pressing will make a lighter coconut milk that can be used to cook rice or poach fish. The squeezed-out coconut can also be dried in an oven on low heat and used as a topping or as a breading in other recipes. The squeezed-out coconut can be used for a second pressing by reblending it with the same amount of water. This second pressing will make a lighter coconut milk that can be used to cook rice or poach fish. The squeezed-out coconut can also be dried in an oven on low heat and used as a topping or as a breading in other recipes.

Collecting the coconut cream: Cover the freshly made coconut milk and place it in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour. The milk will separate into two distinct layers, a thick and creamy top layer and a watery bottom layer. Gently scoop out the top layer of coconut cream, being careful not to mix it back into the thin bottom layer. You should be able to gather about cup of cream from every 2 cups of fresh coconut milk. Cover the freshly made coconut milk and place it in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour. The milk will separate into two distinct layers, a thick and creamy top layer and a watery bottom layer. Gently scoop out the top layer of coconut cream, being careful not to mix it back into the thin bottom layer. You should be able to gather about cup of cream from every 2 cups of fresh coconut milk.

Using canned coconut milk. Canned coconut milk can be used when coconuts are not available or if there is not enough time to make coconut milk from scratch. Be sure to buy unsweetened, all-natural coconut milk that contains nothing but coconut, water, and a little guar gum. Canned coconut milk is thicker than fresh, so it must be blended with water before use in these recipes. In general, mix 5 parts canned coconut milk with 3 parts water to obtain a consistency comparable to fresh milk. (To use one 14-ounce can of coconut milk, stir in 1 cup of water.) Canned coconut milk can be used when coconuts are not available or if there is not enough time to make coconut milk from scratch. Be sure to buy unsweetened, all-natural coconut milk that contains nothing but coconut, water, and a little guar gum. Canned coconut milk is thicker than fresh, so it must be blended with water before use in these recipes. In general, mix 5 parts canned coconut milk with 3 parts water to obtain a consistency comparable to fresh milk. (To use one 14-ounce can of coconut milk, stir in 1 cup of water.) Using canned coconut cream. Canned coconut cream is found in a few Asian, Caribbean, Mexican, and South American markets. It can be difficult to find, so we use canned coconut milk in its undiluted form instead. Cream of coconut is a sweetened coconut product more specifically for blended drinks, and also should not be used as a subst.i.tute for coconut cream. Canned coconut cream is found in a few Asian, Caribbean, Mexican, and South American markets. It can be difficult to find, so we use canned coconut milk in its undiluted form instead. Cream of coconut is a sweetened coconut product more specifically for blended drinks, and also should not be used as a subst.i.tute for coconut cream.

Using packaged frozen or dried grated coconut. Freshly grated coconut can be purchased frozen in some Asian or South American grocers or in specialty food markets. Look for packages in which the coconut appears firm, white, and free of ice crystals. Check the date if there is one. When buying dried, grated coconut, look for the all-natural, unsweetened variety. Most well-stocked health food stores carry a good-quality brand of dried, grated coconut. The packaged dried, grated coconut found on most supermarket shelves is heavily sweetened and full of preservatives and is not recommended for the recipes in this book. Freshly grated coconut can be purchased frozen in some Asian or South American grocers or in specialty food markets. Look for packages in which the coconut appears firm, white, and free of ice crystals. Check the date if there is one. When buying dried, grated coconut, look for the all-natural, unsweetened variety. Most well-stocked health food stores carry a good-quality brand of dried, grated coconut. The packaged dried, grated coconut found on most supermarket shelves is heavily sweetened and full of preservatives and is not recommended for the recipes in this book.

Cooking with coconut milk. Coconut milk can separate when simmered for long periods of time or when brought up to a rolling boil. Once it separates, or curdles, there is really no way to stir or whisk it back together. This frustrating mishap is easily avoided by keeping your eye on the coconut milk as it simmers and making sure never to let it come to a full boil. And, while the flavors are not as superlative, canned coconut milk can withstand longer simmering times and higher temperatures. Coconut milk can separate when simmered for long periods of time or when brought up to a rolling boil. Once it separates, or curdles, there is really no way to stir or whisk it back together. This frustrating mishap is easily avoided by keeping your eye on the coconut milk as it simmers and making sure never to let it come to a full boil. And, while the flavors are not as superlative, canned coconut milk can withstand longer simmering times and higher temperatures.

CORN: A huge variety of dumplings is made from this grain. Nowhere is this more apparent than in Mexico, parts of South America, and the United States. A huge variety of dumplings is made from this grain. Nowhere is this more apparent than in Mexico, parts of South America, and the United States.

Fresh sweet corn. The simplest corn dumplings are made from freshly cut and pulped kernels, wrapped in the corn"s own husks and steamed into tender, curdlike dumplings. Placing the reserved corn silk and the stripped cobs in the steaming water adds even more flavor and aroma. The simplest corn dumplings are made from freshly cut and pulped kernels, wrapped in the corn"s own husks and steamed into tender, curdlike dumplings. Placing the reserved corn silk and the stripped cobs in the steaming water adds even more flavor and aroma.

Dried field corn for masa. Ground nixtamalized corn is the foundation of almost every Mexican tamale and tortilla. Dry kernels of field corn are boiled in a solution of water and slaked lime (calcium hydroxide or "cal") and soaked for up to 24 hours, creating nixtamalized or slaked corn. The corn is then cleaned and ground into a paste on a grinding stone called a Ground nixtamalized corn is the foundation of almost every Mexican tamale and tortilla. Dry kernels of field corn are boiled in a solution of water and slaked lime (calcium hydroxide or "cal") and soaked for up to 24 hours, creating nixtamalized or slaked corn. The corn is then cleaned and ground into a paste on a grinding stone called a metate. metate. (We"ve adapted our recipe to work in a food processor; see FRESH MASA.) This ground paste, or masa, can then be made into different batters and doughs for tamales, flat breads, fritters, or pastries. Although making your own fresh masa can be a lengthy process, it"s a procedure that imparts a balance to the flavor of corn in immeasurable ways. You can also find fresh or frozen masa at some Mexican markets and through mail-order suppliers. Calcium hydroxide is sold as a grainy white powder and can be found at some Mexican markets. (We"ve adapted our recipe to work in a food processor; see FRESH MASA.) This ground paste, or masa, can then be made into different batters and doughs for tamales, flat breads, fritters, or pastries. Although making your own fresh masa can be a lengthy process, it"s a procedure that imparts a balance to the flavor of corn in immeasurable ways. You can also find fresh or frozen masa at some Mexican markets and through mail-order suppliers. Calcium hydroxide is sold as a grainy white powder and can be found at some Mexican markets.

Masa harina. Masa harina is a processed meal made out of dried nixtamalized corn paste. It is the reliable, ready-to-use subst.i.tute for fresh masa and at times may be preferred, especially by those who appreciate a more cakelike tamale. Tamale recipes in this book allow the option of using either fresh masa or masa harina. Masa harina is a processed meal made out of dried nixtamalized corn paste. It is the reliable, ready-to-use subst.i.tute for fresh masa and at times may be preferred, especially by those who appreciate a more cakelike tamale. Tamale recipes in this book allow the option of using either fresh masa or masa harina.

Cornmeal and corn flour. We recommend buying cornmeal that has been stone ground, which is somewhat coa.r.s.e. When a finer consistency is called for, you can grind it further in a spice or coffee grinder by pulsing it a few times. Store coa.r.s.ely ground corn and other whole grain flours in the refrigerator to prevent their natural oils from spoiling. Corn flour is much finer than cornmeal and should not be subst.i.tuted for cornmeal. We recommend buying cornmeal that has been stone ground, which is somewhat coa.r.s.e. When a finer consistency is called for, you can grind it further in a spice or coffee grinder by pulsing it a few times. Store coa.r.s.ely ground corn and other whole grain flours in the refrigerator to prevent their natural oils from spoiling. Corn flour is much finer than cornmeal and should not be subst.i.tuted for cornmeal.

EGGS: Eggs add both moisture and strength to dough that has to be rolled out until thin, and to batters that are dropped into boiling water. They bind together bread cubes and bread crumbs in dumplings that would otherwise crumble apart. Yolks add depth to fillings, and whipped whites add lightness to steamed cakes. Slices of hard-boiled egg are tucked into a number of dumplings. The recipes in this book were tested with large, organic, free-range eggs. These eggs taste much better and have richer yolks and less watery whites. Eggs are also very popular served up with leftover dumplings. Eggs add both moisture and strength to dough that has to be rolled out until thin, and to batters that are dropped into boiling water. They bind together bread cubes and bread crumbs in dumplings that would otherwise crumble apart. Yolks add depth to fillings, and whipped whites add lightness to steamed cakes. Slices of hard-boiled egg are tucked into a number of dumplings. The recipes in this book were tested with large, organic, free-range eggs. These eggs taste much better and have richer yolks and less watery whites. Eggs are also very popular served up with leftover dumplings.

FATS AND OILS: Dumpling doughs and batters-just like those of breads, pastries, biscuits, and so on-often rely on some sort of oil or fat for tenderness and a richer flavor. Lard, suet, and b.u.t.ter are commonly used by dumpling makers around the world and appear many times in this book. A variety of oils is also used to make dumplings. Chemicals and toxins tend to be fat soluble, and because fats and oils are naturally dense or highly concentrated, their quality is paramount, making organic options more appealing. Dumpling doughs and batters-just like those of breads, pastries, biscuits, and so on-often rely on some sort of oil or fat for tenderness and a richer flavor. Lard, suet, and b.u.t.ter are commonly used by dumpling makers around the world and appear many times in this book. A variety of oils is also used to make dumplings. Chemicals and toxins tend to be fat soluble, and because fats and oils are naturally dense or highly concentrated, their quality is paramount, making organic options more appealing.

Lard. Rendered pork fat or lard is used regularly in dumplings, especially in Mexico and China. Most of the lard called for in this book is used in tamales. All-natural lard has a slight meaty smell, an extremely creamy texture, and a certain indefinable quality that serious dumpling fans claim cannot be duplicated by subst.i.tutes. Leaf lard, the fat found around the kidneys, is considered the finest. Some butchers and well-stocked Mexican markets sell fresh as well as rendered lard. Commercially processed lard is deodorized, bleached, and often partially hydrogenated and is not used in this book. When making dessert tamales, we use lighter-tasting solid fats-either nonhydrogenated vegetable shortening or b.u.t.ter. Tamales can be made vegetarian with nonhydrogenated vegetable shortening. Rendered pork fat or lard is used regularly in dumplings, especially in Mexico and China. Most of the lard called for in this book is used in tamales. All-natural lard has a slight meaty smell, an extremely creamy texture, and a certain indefinable quality that serious dumpling fans claim cannot be duplicated by subst.i.tutes. Leaf lard, the fat found around the kidneys, is considered the finest. Some butchers and well-stocked Mexican markets sell fresh as well as rendered lard. Commercially processed lard is deodorized, bleached, and often partially hydrogenated and is not used in this book. When making dessert tamales, we use lighter-tasting solid fats-either nonhydrogenated vegetable shortening or b.u.t.ter. Tamales can be made vegetarian with nonhydrogenated vegetable shortening.

To render lard: For 1 cup of lard, finely chop pound of skinless pork fat into small pieces and place in a small pot. Place the pot over very low heat and allow the fat to melt slowly into an oily liquid. Do not cover. This step may take up to 1 hour. Stir occasionally to help the fat render evenly. Once the fat has melted completely, strain it through a sieve lined with several layers of cheesecloth. Once rendered, it should be kept refrigerated in a tightly sealed gla.s.s jar for up to 1 week or frozen for up to 1 year. For 1 cup of lard, finely chop pound of skinless pork fat into small pieces and place in a small pot. Place the pot over very low heat and allow the fat to melt slowly into an oily liquid. Do not cover. This step may take up to 1 hour. Stir occasionally to help the fat render evenly. Once the fat has melted completely, strain it through a sieve lined with several layers of cheesecloth. Once rendered, it should be kept refrigerated in a tightly sealed gla.s.s jar for up to 1 week or frozen for up to 1 year.

Suet. The stiff fat found around the kidneys of cows is the most commonly used form of suet. It is not used often in the United States, but it isn"t too hard to track down. Butchers who sell more than steaks and chicken should be able to get their hands on some. Suet is used most often in England, most notably in steamed puddings and pastries. Its ability to melt slowly, even at high temperatures, makes it an ideal fat for the long cooking times of puddings. You can use suet straight from the butcher by chilling it and cutting it into small bits, or you can render it first for a smoother consistency. Rendering suet removes most of the meaty flavor and is suggested for the sweet steamed puddings. In most recipes, if suet is unavailable or not preferred, you can subst.i.tute grated frozen b.u.t.ter. The stiff fat found around the kidneys of cows is the most commonly used form of suet. It is not used often in the United States, but it isn"t too hard to track down. Butchers who sell more than steaks and chicken should be able to get their hands on some. Suet is used most often in England, most notably in steamed puddings and pastries. Its ability to melt slowly, even at high temperatures, makes it an ideal fat for the long cooking times of puddings. You can use suet straight from the butcher by chilling it and cutting it into small bits, or you can render it first for a smoother consistency. Rendering suet removes most of the meaty flavor and is suggested for the sweet steamed puddings. In most recipes, if suet is unavailable or not preferred, you can subst.i.tute grated frozen b.u.t.ter.

To chop raw suet: Peel off any membranes from around the fat and remove any noticeable bits of meat. Break the suet into smaller chunks and chop very fine. It helps to firm up the suet in the freezer for at least 1 hour for a cleaner chop. If the suet begins to get sticky, sprinkle with a little all-purpose flour and continue chopping. Don"t worry if the chopped suet clings together in clumps, as you will be rubbing it into flour later. Peel off any membranes from around the fat and remove any noticeable bits of meat. Break the suet into smaller chunks and chop very fine. It helps to firm up the suet in the freezer for at least 1 hour for a cleaner chop. If the suet begins to get sticky, sprinkle with a little all-purpose flour and continue chopping. Don"t worry if the chopped suet clings together in clumps, as you will be rubbing it into flour later.

To render suet: For 1 cup of rendered suet, clean and finely chop pound of raw suet into small pieces and place in a small pot. Place the pot over very low heat and allow the suet to melt slowly into an oily liquid. Do not cover. This step may take up to 1 hour. Stir occasionally to help the fat render evenly. Once the suet has melted completely, strain it through a sieve lined with several layers of cheesecloth. Once rendered, it should be kept refrigerated in a tightly sealed gla.s.s jar for up to 1 week or frozen for up to 1 year. For 1 cup of rendered suet, clean and finely chop pound of raw suet into small pieces and place in a small pot. Place the pot over very low heat and allow the suet to melt slowly into an oily liquid. Do not cover. This step may take up to 1 hour. Stir occasionally to help the fat render evenly. Once the suet has melted completely, strain it through a sieve lined with several layers of cheesecloth. Once rendered, it should be kept refrigerated in a tightly sealed gla.s.s jar for up to 1 week or frozen for up to 1 year.

b.u.t.ter. b.u.t.ter is the preferred fat for a great number of dumpling doughs and fillings, and melted b.u.t.ter may be the world"s most common dumpling sauce. We use only unsalted (or sweet) b.u.t.ter and add salt when needed. All-natural b.u.t.ter of all types is easy enough to find, but the b.u.t.ter made from the milk of gra.s.s-fed cows tastes best. Avoid using margarine or artificially flavored spreads as a subst.i.tute for b.u.t.ter. b.u.t.ter is the preferred fat for a great number of dumpling doughs and fillings, and melted b.u.t.ter may be the world"s most common dumpling sauce. We use only unsalted (or sweet) b.u.t.ter and add salt when needed. All-natural b.u.t.ter of all types is easy enough to find, but the b.u.t.ter made from the milk of gra.s.s-fed cows tastes best. Avoid using margarine or artificially flavored spreads as a subst.i.tute for b.u.t.ter.

Ghee. Clarified-and then slightly caramelized-b.u.t.ter, or ghee, is used often to make dumpling fillings, along with stews, sauces, and soups for dumplings, throughout South Asia and the Middle East. Ghee, when liquid, is golden, thick, and silky. Once chilled it firms up and turns a milky, mild yellow. It has a nutty, b.u.t.tery fragrance and outshines melted or clarified b.u.t.ter, keeps well at room temperature, and like clarified b.u.t.ter, has a high smoking point. Ghee can be found at Indian and some Middle Eastern markets, many health food stores, and well-stocked grocery stores. Keep an eye out for, and resist purchasing, ghee that is hydrogenated. If you are unable to find all-natural ghee, it is simple enough to make at home. Clarified-and then slightly caramelized-b.u.t.ter, or ghee, is used often to make dumpling fillings, along with stews, sauces, and soups for dumplings, throughout South Asia and the Middle East. Ghee, when liquid, is golden, thick, and silky. Once chilled it firms up and turns a milky, mild yellow. It has a nutty, b.u.t.tery fragrance and outshines melted or clarified b.u.t.ter, keeps well at room temperature, and like clarified b.u.t.ter, has a high smoking point. Ghee can be found at Indian and some Middle Eastern markets, many health food stores, and well-stocked grocery stores. Keep an eye out for, and resist purchasing, ghee that is hydrogenated. If you are unable to find all-natural ghee, it is simple enough to make at home.

To make ghee: Place one pound of unsalted b.u.t.ter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Do not cover. Once the b.u.t.ter has melted and has a foamy surface, reduce the heat to low and continue cooking for 8 to 10 minutes. Stir occasionally. Once the foam thins out and the milk solids at the bottom of the pot are golden brown, remove from the heat. The ghee will be a light to medium caramel color. Skim off any foamy bits from the surface and strain the ghee, leaving as many of the cooked solid bits as you can in the pot, through a sieve lined with several layers of cheesecloth. You should have about 1 cups. Keep refrigerated in a tightly sealed gla.s.s jar for up to 3 months or frozen for up to 1 year. Place one pound of unsalted b.u.t.ter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Do not cover. Once the b.u.t.ter has melted and has a foamy surface, reduce the heat to low and continue cooking for 8 to 10 minutes. Stir occasionally. Once the foam thins out and the milk solids at the bottom of the pot are golden brown, remove from the heat. The ghee will be a light to medium caramel color. Skim off any foamy bits from the surface and strain the ghee, leaving as many of the cooked solid bits as you can in the pot, through a sieve lined with several layers of cheesecloth. You should have about 1 cups. Keep refrigerated in a tightly sealed gla.s.s jar for up to 3 months or frozen for up to 1 year.

Grapeseed and other oils. When sauteing or frying ingredients for fillings or sauces, we use primarily grapeseed oil. It has a high smoking point and no discernible flavor. A neutral oil such as this can be used in recipes from around the world without changing signature flavors. Peanut, olive, and sesame oil are also used in this book. Coconut oil that has not been hydrogenated is a good cooking oil that works well in recipes where a light coconut flavor is welcomed. When sauteing or frying ingredients for fillings or sauces, we use primarily grapeseed oil. It has a high smoking point and no discernible flavor. A neutral oil such as this can be used in recipes from around the world without changing signature flavors. Peanut, olive, and sesame oil are also used in this book. Coconut oil that has not been hydrogenated is a good cooking oil that works well in recipes where a light coconut flavor is welcomed.

FISH, SHRIMP, AND Sh.e.l.lFISH: There are relatively few traditional dumplings made with fish or seafood, compared with meat, mushrooms, beans, and other savory fillings. More popular are fish b.a.l.l.s (such as gefilte fish), fish cakes (such as crab cakes) or fritters (such as shrimp b.a.l.l.s). Although dumplings are popular in places where people tend to eat a lot of fish, only a handful of traditional dishes combine fish with dumplings. The flavors of fish are perhaps too subtle to be paired with something as mild as a starchy dough or batter. Shrimp and sh.e.l.lfish, however, are popular in various Chinese and Vietnamese dumplings, especially those wrapped in rice or tapioca doughs. c.o.c.kles, oysters, sole, and shrimp are some of the seafood items that appear in these pages. There are relatively few traditional dumplings made with fish or seafood, compared with meat, mushrooms, beans, and other savory fillings. More popular are fish b.a.l.l.s (such as gefilte fish), fish cakes (such as crab cakes) or fritters (such as shrimp b.a.l.l.s). Although dumplings are popular in places where people tend to eat a lot of fish, only a handful of traditional dishes combine fish with dumplings. The flavors of fish are perhaps too subtle to be paired with something as mild as a starchy dough or batter. Shrimp and sh.e.l.lfish, however, are popular in various Chinese and Vietnamese dumplings, especially those wrapped in rice or tapioca doughs. c.o.c.kles, oysters, sole, and shrimp are some of the seafood items that appear in these pages.

Dried or salted fish and shrimp. Seafood that is preserved by either of these means is used in dumplings from Vietnam, China, j.a.pan, Africa, and the Caribbean. Dried shrimp powder is a popular topping for many Vietnamese dishes, but in China small dried shrimp are used to instantly flavor soups, rice, and many other foods. In j.a.pan, the broth for many soups is flavored with dried fish shavings and pieces of dried seaweed. Fish is plentiful in the Caribbean and parts of Africa, and dried and salted fish are often used to provide a different texture and taste when served with, or stuffed into, dumplings. Seafood that is preserved by either of these means is used in dumplings from Vietnam, China, j.a.pan, Africa, and the Caribbean. Dried shrimp powder is a popular topping for many Vietnamese dishes, but in China small dried shrimp are used to instantly flavor soups, rice, and many other foods. In j.a.pan, the broth for many soups is flavored with dried fish shavings and pieces of dried seaweed. Fish is plentiful in the Caribbean and parts of Africa, and dried and salted fish are often used to provide a different texture and taste when served with, or stuffed into, dumplings.

Fruits: Dumplings are refreshing when made with fruit that"s perfectly ripe and in season, while dried fruit dumplings are sticky, warming, and substantial in colder months. Dumplings are refreshing when made with fruit that"s perfectly ripe and in season, while dried fruit dumplings are sticky, warming, and substantial in colder months.

Apples. There is a well-known dessert called an apple dumpling that is a dough-wrapped apple, stuffed with b.u.t.ter, sugar, spices, and often nuts and baked until golden brown. Because it is baked, it is not technically a dumpling in our eyes, and we"ve not included it in this book. We have included Layered Apple and Bread Pudding and Buckwheat Dumplings Stuffed with Apples and Cheese (both in September). There is a well-known dessert called an apple dumpling that is a dough-wrapped apple, stuffed with b.u.t.ter, sugar, spices, and often nuts and baked until golden brown. Because it is baked, it is not technically a dumpling in our eyes, and we"ve not included it in this book. We have included Layered Apple and Bread Pudding and Buckwheat Dumplings Stuffed with Apples and Cheese (both in September).

Stone fruit and berries. We used all sorts of plums, cherries, peaches, blueberries, and strawberries as we cooked our way through hundreds of dumplings. There is something special about these highly perishable fruits wrapped up and cooked to a jamlike perfection inside pockets of tasty dough. Thick, sticky batters dropped by the spoonful onto the surface of a bubbling stone fruit or berry stew create cla.s.sic summer and early fall desserts. Recipes in this book use primarily fresh fruit, but there is no denying that these fruits also freeze well, and bags of blueberries or sliced peaches can be kept on hand for a quick dumpling dessert anytime. We used all sorts of plums, cherries, peaches, blueberries, and strawberries as we cooked our way through hundreds of dumplings. There is something special about these highly perishable fruits wrapped up and cooked to a jamlike perfection inside pockets of tasty dough. Thick, sticky batters dropped by the spoonful onto the surface of a bubbling stone fruit or berry stew create cla.s.sic summer and early fall desserts. Recipes in this book use primarily fresh fruit, but there is no denying that these fruits also freeze well, and bags of blueberries or sliced peaches can be kept on hand for a quick dumpling dessert anytime.

Dried fruit. Raisins, dried plums (prunes), dried currants, dried apricots, and other dried fruits are more intense than fresh versions. They can be found in a number of steamed puddings from England-their innate stickiness helps to bind flours and bread crumbs together when used in large amounts-and to a lesser extent in steamed breads, cakes, and other dumplings throughout the rest of Europe, the Americas, Russia, and Asia. Dried fruit keeps well and is available for dumpling making year-round, but its darker, near-spicy richness is especially effective during the cold months. Many health food stores sell sugar-free and preservative-free dried fruit, which ensures character and exceptionally good taste. The flavor of treated dried fruit tends to melt away once the fruit is steamed or boiled within dumpling batters or dough. Raisins, dried plums (prunes), dried currants, dried apricots, and other dried fruits are more intense than fresh versions. They can be found in a number of steamed puddings from England-their innate stickiness helps to bind flours and bread crumbs together when used in large amounts-and to a lesser extent in steamed breads, cakes, and other dumplings throughout the rest of Europe, the Americas, Russia, and Asia. Dried fruit keeps well and is available for dumpling making year-round, but its darker, near-spicy richness is especially effective during the cold months. Many health food stores sell sugar-free and preservative-free dried fruit, which ensures character and exceptionally good taste. The flavor of treated dried fruit tends to melt away once the fruit is steamed or boiled within dumpling batters or dough.

HERBS, SPICES, SAUCES, AND PEPPERS: Certain dumplings aren"t complete unless matched with fish sauce, soy sauce, hot sauce, or other condiments. Peppers, especially hot peppers, are vital to many Asian, Indian, Caribbean, Mexican, and African dumpling dishes. Spices, herbs, and peppers are used to intensify the flavor of both dumpling fillings and the soups, stews, sauces, and broths in which the dumplings are served. Certain dumplings aren"t complete unless matched with fish sauce, soy sauce, hot sauce, or other condiments. Peppers, especially hot peppers, are vital to many Asian, Indian, Caribbean, Mexican, and African dumpling dishes. Spices, herbs, and peppers are used to intensify the flavor of both dumpling fillings and the soups, stews, sauces, and broths in which the dumplings are served.

Black pepper. Whole peppercorns are used to add an alluring spice and fragrance to many of the broths in which dumplings are served. Freshly ground pepper is also used to season a fair number of fillings, soups, sauces, and so on, throughout the book. We found ground black pepper to be used most indulgently as a topping for certain Eastern European and Russian dumplings, especially those slathered with melted b.u.t.ter, sour cream, or vinegar. Whole peppercorns are used to add an alluring spice and fragrance to many of the broths in which dumplings are served. Freshly ground pepper is also used to season a fair number of fillings, soups, sauces, and so on, throughout the book. We found ground black pepper to be used most indulgently as a topping for certain Eastern European and Russian dumplings, especially those slathered with melted b.u.t.ter, sour cream, or vinegar.

Chile peppers and powders. Spicy-hot dumpling fillings, stews, soups, and sauces are found predominantly in Asian, Mexican, African, and Caribbean kitchens. Whether the peppers are fresh, dried, or powdered, their use is completely to taste. Dumplings that are traditionally quite hot are prepared in this book in the medium-hot range. If you know your heat tolerance and know your peppers, you can definitely add more (or less). Whenever possible, try to use the peppers we recommend in the recipe. Regional favorites are favorites for a reason, and they have a role that is not easily replaced. You can find the peppers used in the following recipes at Indian, Thai, Chinese, Mexican, and African groceries and, depending on your location, some well-stocked supermarkets, health food stores, and specialty markets. Spicy-hot dumpling fillings, stews, soups, and sauces are found predominantly in Asian, Mexican, African, and Caribbean kitchens. Whether the peppers are fresh, dried, or powdered, their use is completely to taste. Dumplings that are traditionally quite hot are prepared in this book in the medium-hot range. If you know your heat tolerance and know your peppers, you can definitely add more (or less). Whenever possible, try to use the peppers we recommend in the recipe. Regional favorites are favorites for a reason, and they have a role that is not easily replaced. You can find the peppers used in the following recipes at Indian, Thai, Chinese, Mexican, and African groceries and, depending on your location, some well-stocked supermarkets, health food stores, and specialty markets.

Fish sauce. Fermenting fish simply with salt or other spices creates an elaborately flavored and glossy sauce. Some are concocted from only one type of small oily fish, others are prepared from a specific ratio of two or more types of fish or fish parts, and still others are made of a seemingly random mixture of all things from the sea with scales or sh.e.l.ls. The aroma of fish sauce is an acquired appreciation for some. Well-aged fish sauces smell mildly fishy and nutty compared to the sharp, dead-fish fragrance of some younger varieties. This addictive sauce is used regularly to season fillings and dipping sauces for an endless number of dumplings in the Philippines, Thailand, Vietnam, and other Southeast Asian countries. Fermenting fish simply with salt or other spices creates an elaborately flavored and glossy sauce. Some are concocted from only one type of small oily fish, others are prepared from a specific ratio of two or more types of fish or fish parts, and still others are made of a seemingly random mixture of all things from the sea with scales or sh.e.l.ls. The aroma of fish sauce is an acquired appreciation for some. Well-aged fish sauces smell mildly fishy and nutty compared to the sharp, dead-fish fragrance of some younger varieties. This addictive sauce is used regularly to season fillings and dipping sauces for an endless number of dumplings in the Philippines, Thailand, Vietnam, and other Southeast Asian countries.

Ginger. Dumplings from all regions of Asia depend on the refreshing, biting, and intriguing properties of freshly grated or chopped ginger. A grating of ginger adds immediate life to meat, vegetables, and mushrooms. It wakes up the mouth and, when not overused, calls direct attention to the flavors and fragrances of the other ingredients, including the dough. Ginger is temperamental. One piece will be mild, fruity, and basically fiber-free, while another piece will be hot, strong, and woody in texture. Look for sections that have smooth, thin skins pulled taut against the flesh. Avoid pieces that look shriveled or dried out in parts. If a recipe calls for chopped ginger and you find yourself with a particularly fibrous piece, grate it as best you can and add slightly less. Dumplings from all regions of Asia depend on the refreshing, biting, and intriguing properties of freshly grated or chopped ginger. A grating of ginger adds immediate life to meat, vegetables, and mushrooms. It wakes up the mouth and, when not overused, calls direct attention to the flavors and fragrances of the other ingredients, including the dough. Ginger is temperamental. One piece will be mild, fruity, and basically fiber-free, while another piece will be hot, strong, and woody in texture. Look for sections that have smooth, thin skins pulled taut against the flesh. Avoid pieces that look shriveled or dried out in parts. If a recipe calls for chopped ginger and you find yourself with a particularly fibrous piece, grate it as best you can and add slightly less.

Herbs. Fresh herbs are used most often in this book, but dried herbs can usually be subst.i.tuted, using about one-third of the amount. But when a recipe calls for bunch of thyme or cup of basil, such a large amount must be fresh and not replaced by the dried. Occasionally, when a recipe calls for dried herbs specifically, fresh should not be subst.i.tuted. Fresh herbs are used most often in this book, but dried herbs can usually be subst.i.tuted, using about one-third of the amount. But when a recipe calls for bunch of thyme or cup of basil, such a large amount must be fresh and not replaced by the dried. Occasionally, when a recipe calls for dried herbs specifically, fresh should not be subst.i.tuted.

Pandan (or screwpine) leaves. (or screwpine) leaves. It is often said that It is often said that pandan pandan is to Asian cooking what vanilla is to European or Western cooking. But Westerners can"t grow vanilla in their backyards and gardens the way is to Asian cooking what vanilla is to European or Western cooking. But Westerners can"t grow vanilla in their backyards and gardens the way pandan pandan is grown throughout Thailand, the Philippines, and other countries. It adds both an aromatic essence to dumplings that we can only describe as sweet caramelized gra.s.s and, depending on how it is prepared, a natural shade of green. These tall, gra.s.sy-looking leaves are found, fresh or frozen, in good Thai, Philippine, and Vietnamese markets. is grown throughout Thailand, the Philippines, and other countries. It adds both an aromatic essence to dumplings that we can only describe as sweet caramelized gra.s.s and, depending on how it is prepared, a natural shade of green. These tall, gra.s.sy-looking leaves are found, fresh or frozen, in good Thai, Philippine, and Vietnamese markets. Pandan Pandan extract is sold clear or artificially dyed green, resulting in a more electric type of color. If you have to use the extract, try to find the clear type. The extract can be found at the same Asian markets that carry the leaves and, at times, at well-stocked supermarkets or specialty food markets. extract is sold clear or artificially dyed green, resulting in a more electric type of color. If you have to use the extract, try to find the clear type. The extract can be found at the same Asian markets that carry the leaves and, at times, at well-stocked supermarkets or specialty food markets.

Sichuan (or Szechwan) pepper. This is not really a pepper but a tiny berrylike pod that opens up and gets extremely brittle as it dries. The seed inside is not what"s used. It"s the pod and the bit of stem that are ground into a powdery spice. It has a peppery, bitter, and slight lemony flavor that works brilliantly with most other spices as well as with sweet and savory ingredients. What makes the Sichuan peppercorn really unusual is its temporary, but nonetheless powerful, anesthetic properties. Sichuan pepper blankets the mouth with a m