2. Place the b.u.t.ter, muscovado sugar, and treacle in another large bowl and whisk vigorously until most of the sugar has dissolved. Continue whisking while slowly pouring in the eggs. Place the b.u.t.ter, muscovado sugar, and treacle in another large bowl and whisk vigorously until most of the sugar has dissolved. Continue whisking while slowly pouring in the eggs.

3. Combine the bread crumbs, flour, Pudding Spice, and salt in another large bowl. Add the suet and mix it throughout the bread crumb mixture while breaking apart any clumps. If using b.u.t.ter, rub it into the bread crumb mixture until it looks like coa.r.s.e cornmeal. Pour in the b.u.t.ter and egg mixture and the soaked fruit along with its liquid. Using your hands, mix until combined. Cover and refrigerate overnight for up to 3 days. Combine the bread crumbs, flour, Pudding Spice, and salt in another large bowl. Add the suet and mix it throughout the bread crumb mixture while breaking apart any clumps. If using b.u.t.ter, rub it into the bread crumb mixture until it looks like coa.r.s.e cornmeal. Pour in the b.u.t.ter and egg mixture and the soaked fruit along with its liquid. Using your hands, mix until combined. Cover and refrigerate overnight for up to 3 days.

4. Remove the mixture from the refrigerator. Firmly compress it into a ball with your hands. If the mixture is not sticking together, work in a little more ale or bandy. If liquid has collected in the bowl, add a little more flour and work everything back into the mixture. Remove the mixture from the refrigerator. Firmly compress it into a ball with your hands. If the mixture is not sticking together, work in a little more ale or bandy. If liquid has collected in the bowl, add a little more flour and work everything back into the mixture.

5. a.s.sEMBLE AND STEAM THE DUMPLING a.s.sEMBLE AND STEAM THE DUMPLING: Before a.s.sembling the pudding, review the Pudding Basin Setup. Before a.s.sembling the pudding, review the Pudding Basin Setup.

6. Soak the muslin and the string under running water. Wring them out and set aside. Soak the muslin and the string under running water. Wring them out and set aside.

7. Place the empty pudding basin in the pot. Pour water into the s.p.a.ce between the basin and the pot until it comes three-quarters of the way up the sides of the basin. Remove the basin and bring the water to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low for a gentle simmer. Place the empty pudding basin in the pot. Pour water into the s.p.a.ce between the basin and the pot until it comes three-quarters of the way up the sides of the basin. Remove the basin and bring the water to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low for a gentle simmer.

8. Meanwhile, make sure the interior of the basin is dry before rubbing it with b.u.t.ter and coating it with sugar. Scoop the pudding mixture into the basin without packing it down and smooth out the surface using wet fingers. Cut out a round of parchment paper and place it on top of the pudding mixture. Cover the basin with the damp muslin and secure it tightly with the string. Tie the opposite corners of the muslin into handles over the top of the pudding. Meanwhile, make sure the interior of the basin is dry before rubbing it with b.u.t.ter and coating it with sugar. Scoop the pudding mixture into the basin without packing it down and smooth out the surface using wet fingers. Cut out a round of parchment paper and place it on top of the pudding mixture. Cover the basin with the damp muslin and secure it tightly with the string. Tie the opposite corners of the muslin into handles over the top of the pudding.

9. Using tongs or a wooden spoon, push a folded cloth, such as a standard white cotton napkin, into the simmering water and arrange it to lie flat on the bottom of the pot. Using the cloth handle, carefully lower the basin into the pot, cover, and simmer for at least 8 to 10 hours. Check the water level every 30 minutes and replenish with boiling water as needed. Using tongs or a wooden spoon, push a folded cloth, such as a standard white cotton napkin, into the simmering water and arrange it to lie flat on the bottom of the pot. Using the cloth handle, carefully lower the basin into the pot, cover, and simmer for at least 8 to 10 hours. Check the water level every 30 minutes and replenish with boiling water as needed.

10. Remove the pot from the heat. Using a pot holder to grasp the cloth handle, carefully remove the basin from the pot, put it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the pudding to cool for 10 minutes. Remove the string, cloth, and paper. Unmold by inverting it onto a plate. Slice and serve hot with Vanilla Custard Sauce or Hard Sauce. If eating the pudding within 2 weeks, allow it to cool completely, and keep it tightly wrapped in the refrigerator. Reheat the pudding in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips). If you are aging the pudding, allow it to cool completely, and wrap it tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to 3 months. Brush the pudding with ale or brandy twice a week, if you like, and rewrap tightly. To cook, steam it for 2 to 3 hours in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips). Remove the pot from the heat. Using a pot holder to grasp the cloth handle, carefully remove the basin from the pot, put it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the pudding to cool for 10 minutes. Remove the string, cloth, and paper. Unmold by inverting it onto a plate. Slice and serve hot with Vanilla Custard Sauce or Hard Sauce. If eating the pudding within 2 weeks, allow it to cool completely, and keep it tightly wrapped in the refrigerator. Reheat the pudding in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips). If you are aging the pudding, allow it to cool completely, and wrap it tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to 3 months. Brush the pudding with ale or brandy twice a week, if you like, and rewrap tightly. To cook, steam it for 2 to 3 hours in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips).

Chocolate Tamales Tamales de Chocolate (Mexico) (Mexico) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 8 ( 8 (MAKES 16 16 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

The combination of lime-treated corn and Mexican chocolate creates an unusually light yet satisfyingly rich chocolate dessert. Like Tamales Dulces Tamales Dulces (May), (May), Tamales de Chocolate Tamales de Chocolate can be enhanced with bits of fruit or nuts added to the filling. Pecans are an especially excellent addition, but be sure to toast them lightly beforehand. can be enhanced with bits of fruit or nuts added to the filling. Pecans are an especially excellent addition, but be sure to toast them lightly beforehand.

These dumplings are wrapped using the Single-Husk Tamale Fold.

For the Batter2/3 cup nonhydrogenated vegetable shortening, at room temperature cup nonhydrogenated vegetable shortening, at room temperature2 cups masa harina1/3 cup cocoa powder cup cocoa powder2/3 cup sugar cup sugar1 teaspoon baking powder1/8 teaspoon salt teaspoon salt cup warm waterFor the Filling6 ounces Mexican chocolate, such as Ibarra, chopped fine (about 1 cup)For a.s.sembly20 to 25 prepared dried corn husks (see Glossary of Equipment)Sixteen 12-inch lengths of kitchen string for tying the tamales8- to 10-quart steamer potEquipmentElectric hand mixer 1. MAKE THE BATTER MAKE THE BATTER: Whip the shortening in a medium bowl with the hand mixer at medium speed until light and glossy, about 5 minutes. Whip the shortening in a medium bowl with the hand mixer at medium speed until light and glossy, about 5 minutes.

2. Combine the masa harina, cocoa powder, sugar, baking powder, and salt in a large mixing bowl. Combine the masa harina, cocoa powder, sugar, baking powder, and salt in a large mixing bowl.

3. Pour the warm water into the masa harina mixture and mix with the hand mixer at low speed. Raise the speed to high and mix in the shortening one spoonful at a time. Continue to mix at high speed until the batter is very light and fluffy, about 10 minutes. Cover and set aside for 30 minutes. (You can also make the batter 1 day in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container.) Pour the warm water into the masa harina mixture and mix with the hand mixer at low speed. Raise the speed to high and mix in the shortening one spoonful at a time. Continue to mix at high speed until the batter is very light and fluffy, about 10 minutes. Cover and set aside for 30 minutes. (You can also make the batter 1 day in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container.) 4. a.s.sEMBLE THE TAMALES a.s.sEMBLE THE TAMALES: Before a.s.sembling the tamales, review the Single-Husk Tamale Fold. Before a.s.sembling the tamales, review the Single-Husk Tamale Fold.

5. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and have ready the batter, chocolate, the husks, and the ties. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and have ready the batter, chocolate, the husks, and the ties.

6. Loosen up the batter by whisking it for 2 to 3 minutes. The consistency should be something similar to a grainy and dense mousse. If the batter is too stiff to whisk easily, mix in some cold water, a little at a time, until it is softer and fluffier. Loosen up the batter by whisking it for 2 to 3 minutes. The consistency should be something similar to a grainy and dense mousse. If the batter is too stiff to whisk easily, mix in some cold water, a little at a time, until it is softer and fluffier.

7. Pick out the best 16 husks. lay flat 1 husk, smooth side up. center 2 rounded tablespoons of the batter on top of the husk and spread it out to the right until it forms a rectangle about 4 2 inches. Place 1 tablespoon of the Mexican chocolate on top of the left half of the rectangle only. Fold the right side of the husk over, sandwiching the filling between the two layers of the batter. Then fold the left side of the husk over the top. Fold the ends of the husk over as firmly as you can to create a neat rectangular package. Tie the package in a crisscross pattern to prevent the husk from unfolding and place on the lined tray. Repeat until you have 16 tamales. Pick out the best 16 husks. lay flat 1 husk, smooth side up. center 2 rounded tablespoons of the batter on top of the husk and spread it out to the right until it forms a rectangle about 4 2 inches. Place 1 tablespoon of the Mexican chocolate on top of the left half of the rectangle only. Fold the right side of the husk over, sandwiching the filling between the two layers of the batter. Then fold the left side of the husk over the top. Fold the ends of the husk over as firmly as you can to create a neat rectangular package. Tie the package in a crisscross pattern to prevent the husk from unfolding and place on the lined tray. Repeat until you have 16 tamales.

8. Set aside the number of tamales that you would like to cook and keep the rest frozen for up to 6 months (see Tips). Set aside the number of tamales that you would like to cook and keep the rest frozen for up to 6 months (see Tips).

9. STEAM THE TAMALES STEAM THE TAMALES: Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, arrange the tamales upright, leaning or loosely wedged against each other in the basket. Ball up and stick in any extra husks or parchment paper to keep the tamales propped up if needed. Blanket the tamales with the remaining husks. Place the basket in the pot, reduce the heat to medium, cover, and steam for 1 hours. Check the water level every 30 minutes and replenish with boiling water as needed. (If steaming frozen tamales, place them directly in the basket and cook them in the steamer pot for 2 hours. Do not allow the tamales to thaw before cooking.) Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, arrange the tamales upright, leaning or loosely wedged against each other in the basket. Ball up and stick in any extra husks or parchment paper to keep the tamales propped up if needed. Blanket the tamales with the remaining husks. Place the basket in the pot, reduce the heat to medium, cover, and steam for 1 hours. Check the water level every 30 minutes and replenish with boiling water as needed. (If steaming frozen tamales, place them directly in the basket and cook them in the steamer pot for 2 hours. Do not allow the tamales to thaw before cooking.) 10. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket and place it on a folded kitchen towel. Let the tamales cool slightly, cut off the strings, and serve. It"s best not to open the tamales too soon and to peel back the husks just before eating so that they stay moist and warm. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket and place it on a folded kitchen towel. Let the tamales cool slightly, cut off the strings, and serve. It"s best not to open the tamales too soon and to peel back the husks just before eating so that they stay moist and warm.

Siberian Meat Dumplings Pelmeni (Russia) (Russia) SERVES 6 6 TO TO 8 8.

Pelmeni are traditionally made in large batches and left outside to freeze during the frigid Russian winters. Storing these meat dumplings outdoors, on the porch or in the yard, made them readily available whenever a quick meal, or an addition to a meal, was needed. The fact that these dumplings were frozen before being cooked added a characteristic firmness to the dough. In keeping with this tradition, this recipe calls for the dumplings to be frozen solid before cooking. They are usually served in a mushroom or beef broth or a b.u.t.tery mustard sauce (recipe below) and lots of freshly cracked black pepper. are traditionally made in large batches and left outside to freeze during the frigid Russian winters. Storing these meat dumplings outdoors, on the porch or in the yard, made them readily available whenever a quick meal, or an addition to a meal, was needed. The fact that these dumplings were frozen before being cooked added a characteristic firmness to the dough. In keeping with this tradition, this recipe calls for the dumplings to be frozen solid before cooking. They are usually served in a mushroom or beef broth or a b.u.t.tery mustard sauce (recipe below) and lots of freshly cracked black pepper.

For the Dough4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus some extra for dusting1 teaspoon salt2 large eggs, beatenFor the Filling1 small yellow onion, chopped fine pound freshly ground beef pound freshly ground pork2 garlic cloves, chopped very fine1 teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepperFor the Sauce*6 tablespoons ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter3 tablespoons dark brown mustard3 tablespoons distilled white vinegar teaspoon saltFreshly ground black pepper to tasteEquipment2-inch round cookie cutterLarge, wide bowl to hold the dumplings cooked in batches 1. MAKE THE DOUGH MAKE THE DOUGH: Place 3 cups of the flour in a large bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Add the 1 teaspoon salt and mix well. Add the eggs and 1 cups water and mix until all the liquid has been absorbed. Work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. If the dough is sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers. Place 3 cups of the flour in a large bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Add the 1 teaspoon salt and mix well. Add the eggs and 1 cups water and mix until all the liquid has been absorbed. Work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. If the dough is sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers.

2. Place the dough on a floured surface and knead for 4 to 5 minutes. Return the dough ball to the bowl, cover with a kitchen towel, and let rest for 30 minutes. Place the dough on a floured surface and knead for 4 to 5 minutes. Return the dough ball to the bowl, cover with a kitchen towel, and let rest for 30 minutes.

3. MAKE THE FILLING MAKE THE FILLING: Pulse the onion in a food processor once or twice to break it down slightly. Place it in a small bowl, mix in the remaining filling ingredients, and set aside. Pulse the onion in a food processor once or twice to break it down slightly. Place it in a small bowl, mix in the remaining filling ingredients, and set aside.

4. a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS: Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Have ready the dough and the filling. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Have ready the dough and the filling.

5. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 8 equal pieces, and set 7 of them aside under a kitchen towel. Shape the remaining piece into a ball, then roll it out until it"s 1/16 inch thick, even thinner would be ideal. (For tips on how to roll dough out thin, see Tips.) Take your time and sprinkle with flour if it gets sticky. Let the rolled-out dough relax for a couple of minutes before cutting out rounds. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 8 equal pieces, and set 7 of them aside under a kitchen towel. Shape the remaining piece into a ball, then roll it out until it"s 1/16 inch thick, even thinner would be ideal. (For tips on how to roll dough out thin, see Tips.) Take your time and sprinkle with flour if it gets sticky. Let the rolled-out dough relax for a couple of minutes before cutting out rounds.

6. Using the cookie cutter, cut out as many rounds as you can, usually 28 to 30. Place the rounds in a single layer on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remaining dough pieces. Keep the rounds covered with a kitchen towel as you work. Sc.r.a.ps cannot be reused because dough rolled out this thin is too dry to recombine. Using the cookie cutter, cut out as many rounds as you can, usually 28 to 30. Place the rounds in a single layer on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remaining dough pieces. Keep the rounds covered with a kitchen towel as you work. Sc.r.a.ps cannot be reused because dough rolled out this thin is too dry to recombine.

7. Lay flat 4 to 8 dough rounds. Brush half of them with a very thin coating of water to make them sticky enough to seal. Place teaspoon of filling in the center of each dampened round. Top each spoonful of filling with an unbrushed round, creating little sandwiches. Pinch together the edges, pushing out any air, and seal. If desired, trim the edges for a more tailored look. Place the a.s.sembled dumplings in a single layer on the prepared tray and keep them covered with a kitchen towel while you work. Once you have a.s.sembled the first batch of dumplings, continue with the remaining dough and filling. Lay flat 4 to 8 dough rounds. Brush half of them with a very thin coating of water to make them sticky enough to seal. Place teaspoon of filling in the center of each dampened round. Top each spoonful of filling with an unbrushed round, creating little sandwiches. Pinch together the edges, pushing out any air, and seal. If desired, trim the edges for a more tailored look. Place the a.s.sembled dumplings in a single layer on the prepared tray and keep them covered with a kitchen towel while you work. Once you have a.s.sembled the first batch of dumplings, continue with the remaining dough and filling.

8. Cover the tray of a.s.sembled dumplings and place in the freezer until they are completely frozen, 3 to 4 hours. Pick out the number of dumplings that you want to cook and keep the rest frozen for up to 6 months (see Tips). Cover the tray of a.s.sembled dumplings and place in the freezer until they are completely frozen, 3 to 4 hours. Pick out the number of dumplings that you want to cook and keep the rest frozen for up to 6 months (see Tips).

9. COOK THE DUMPLINGS COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Fill a large pot halfway with salted water, place over high heat, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer. Fill a large pot halfway with salted water, place over high heat, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer.

10. Gently drop a few dozen of the frozen dumplings, a few at a time, into the simmering water. Stir carefully to prevent sticking. Cook until all of them are floating, 3 to 4 minutes, then cook for 4 minutes longer. Gently drop a few dozen of the frozen dumplings, a few at a time, into the simmering water. Stir carefully to prevent sticking. Cook until all of them are floating, 3 to 4 minutes, then cook for 4 minutes longer.

11. Remove the Remove the pelmeni pelmeni with a slotted spoon, place them in the large bowl, and drizzle with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Cook any remaining with a slotted spoon, place them in the large bowl, and drizzle with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Cook any remaining pelmeni pelmeni and place them in the bowl with another ladle of the cooking liquid. Keep them warm while you make the sauce. and place them in the bowl with another ladle of the cooking liquid. Keep them warm while you make the sauce.

12. MAKE THE SAUCE AND FINISH THE DUMPLINGS MAKE THE SAUCE AND FINISH THE DUMPLINGS: Melt the b.u.t.ter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Do not brown. Immediately pour the b.u.t.ter into a large serving bowl and whisk in the mustard, vinegar, and teaspoon salt. Drain the Melt the b.u.t.ter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Do not brown. Immediately pour the b.u.t.ter into a large serving bowl and whisk in the mustard, vinegar, and teaspoon salt. Drain the pelmeni pelmeni and add them to the sauce. Toss gently to coat and serve with freshly ground black pepper. and add them to the sauce. Toss gently to coat and serve with freshly ground black pepper.

Chestnut Ravioli with Sage b.u.t.ter Sauce Ravioli di Castagne (Italy) (Italy) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 6 ( 6 (MAKES ABOUT 60 60 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

These dumplings are a tradition at Christmas in Italy, and they do a magnificent job of showing off the chestnut"s delicate texture and nutty flavor. First the chestnuts are simmered and peeled, a task that is satisfying and sweet smelling. Then they are combined with prosciutto, apple, crushed amaretti cookies, and cinnamon. Dried or canned chestnuts can also be used in this recipe, but they are not nearly as wonderful as fresh chestnuts.

These dumplings are made using the Half-Moon Fold.

For the Filling10 large chestnuts cup finely chopped prosciutto (about 4 thin slices) cup whole-milk ricotta3 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese1 amaretti cookie, finely crushed (optional)1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice plus teaspoon grated zest1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg teaspoon ground cinnamon Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg teaspoon salt1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper teaspoon freshly ground black pepper small crisp, tart apple, such as Granny SmithFor the Dough1 recipe Ravioli di Pesce Ravioli di Pesce (Fish Ravioli with a Thinned Cream Sauce) dough, preferably made while the filling is being chilled, but no more than 1 hour in advance (Fish Ravioli with a Thinned Cream Sauce) dough, preferably made while the filling is being chilled, but no more than 1 hour in advanceUnbleached all-purpose flour for dustingFor the Sauce*4 tablespoons ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, cut into chunks8 to 10 fresh sage leavesSalt and freshly ground black pepperEquipment2-inch round cookie cutterLarge, wide bowl to hold the dumplings cooked in batches 1. MAKE THE FILLING MAKE THE FILLING: Fill a small pot halfway with water and bring to a boil over high heat. Cut a -inch slit into the sh.e.l.l of each chestnut and drop them into the water. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 1 hour. Drain the chestnuts, place them in a small bowl, and allow them to cool slightly. Fill a small pot halfway with water and bring to a boil over high heat. Cut a -inch slit into the sh.e.l.l of each chestnut and drop them into the water. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 1 hour. Drain the chestnuts, place them in a small bowl, and allow them to cool slightly.

2. Once the chestnuts are cool enough to handle, peel off their sh.e.l.ls and skins and pick out any discolored pieces. Crush the chestnuts in a medium mixing bowl with a potato masher until just slightly chunky. Mix in the proscuitto, ricotta, Parmesan, amaretti crumbs, lemon juice, lemon zest, cinnamon, nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Once the chestnuts are cool enough to handle, peel off their sh.e.l.ls and skins and pick out any discolored pieces. Crush the chestnuts in a medium mixing bowl with a potato masher until just slightly chunky. Mix in the proscuitto, ricotta, Parmesan, amaretti crumbs, lemon juice, lemon zest, cinnamon, nutmeg, salt, and pepper.

3. Peel, core, and finely grate the apple. Add it to the chestnut mixture and gently toss with your fingers until everything is mixed evenly. Cover and refrigerate for 30 to 60 minutes before a.s.sembling the dumplings. Peel, core, and finely grate the apple. Add it to the chestnut mixture and gently toss with your fingers until everything is mixed evenly. Cover and refrigerate for 30 to 60 minutes before a.s.sembling the dumplings.

4. a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS: Before a.s.sembling the ravioli, review the Half-Moon Fold. Before a.s.sembling the ravioli, review the Half-Moon Fold.

5. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Have ready the dough and the filling. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Have ready the dough and the filling.

6. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 4 equal pieces, and set 3 of them aside under a kitchen towel. Shape the remaining piece into a ball, then roll it out until it"s 1/16 inch thick. (For tips on how to roll dough out thin, see Tips.) Sprinkle with flour if it gets sticky. Let the rolled-out dough relax for a couple of minutes before cutting out rounds. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 4 equal pieces, and set 3 of them aside under a kitchen towel. Shape the remaining piece into a ball, then roll it out until it"s 1/16 inch thick. (For tips on how to roll dough out thin, see Tips.) Sprinkle with flour if it gets sticky. Let the rolled-out dough relax for a couple of minutes before cutting out rounds.

7. Using the cookie cutter, cut out as many rounds as you can, usually 12 to 15. Sc.r.a.ps cannot be reused because dough rolled out this thin is too dry to recombine. Using the cookie cutter, cut out as many rounds as you can, usually 12 to 15. Sc.r.a.ps cannot be reused because dough rolled out this thin is too dry to recombine.

8. Lay flat 1 to 5 dough rounds. Brush each round with a very thin coating of water to make it sticky enough to seal. Center a rounded teaspoon of filling on top of each round, fold each neatly in half, pushing out any air, and pinch to seal. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. Place the a.s.sembled dumplings in a single layer on the prepared tray and keep them covered with a kitchen towel while you work. Once you have a.s.sembled the first batch of dumplings, continue with the remaining dough and filling. Lay flat 1 to 5 dough rounds. Brush each round with a very thin coating of water to make it sticky enough to seal. Center a rounded teaspoon of filling on top of each round, fold each neatly in half, pushing out any air, and pinch to seal. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. Place the a.s.sembled dumplings in a single layer on the prepared tray and keep them covered with a kitchen towel while you work. Once you have a.s.sembled the first batch of dumplings, continue with the remaining dough and filling.

9. Cover the tray of a.s.sembled dumplings and place in the refrigerator for 30 to 60 minutes before cooking. Chilling them helps to set the dough, making the dumplings firm and toothsome when cooked instead of puffy and soft. Set aside the number of dumplings that you would like to cook and keep the rest frozen for up to 6 months (see Tips). Cover the tray of a.s.sembled dumplings and place in the refrigerator for 30 to 60 minutes before cooking. Chilling them helps to set the dough, making the dumplings firm and toothsome when cooked instead of puffy and soft. Set aside the number of dumplings that you would like to cook and keep the rest frozen for up to 6 months (see Tips).

10. COOK THE DUMPLINGS COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Fill a large pot halfway with salted water and bring it to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer. Fill a large pot halfway with salted water and bring it to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer.

11. Gently drop up to 20 dumplings, a few at a time, into the simmering water and stir gently to prevent sticking. Cook until all of them are floating, 2 to 3 minutes, then cook for 3 minutes longer. (If cooking frozen ravioli, add them directly to the simmering water and increase the cooking time by 1 minute. Do not allow the ravioli to thaw before cooking.) Gently drop up to 20 dumplings, a few at a time, into the simmering water and stir gently to prevent sticking. Cook until all of them are floating, 2 to 3 minutes, then cook for 3 minutes longer. (If cooking frozen ravioli, add them directly to the simmering water and increase the cooking time by 1 minute. Do not allow the ravioli to thaw before cooking.) 12. Using a slotted spoon, remove the dumplings, place them in the large bowl, and drizzle with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Cook the remaining dumplings and place them in the bowl with another ladle of the cooking liquid. Reserve 1 cup of the cooking liquid for the sauce. Using a slotted spoon, remove the dumplings, place them in the large bowl, and drizzle with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Cook the remaining dumplings and place them in the bowl with another ladle of the cooking liquid. Reserve 1 cup of the cooking liquid for the sauce.

13. MAKE THE SAUCE AND FINISH THE DUMPLINGS MAKE THE SAUCE AND FINISH THE DUMPLINGS: Melt the b.u.t.ter in a large skillet over low heat without browning. Once the b.u.t.ter has melted completely, raise the heat to medium and stir in the sage. Cook until the b.u.t.ter and the sage just begin to brown, about 2 minutes. Carefully and quickly pour the reserved cup of pasta water. Continue simmering until the sauce has been reduced by half, about 5 minutes. Melt the b.u.t.ter in a large skillet over low heat without browning. Once the b.u.t.ter has melted completely, raise the heat to medium and stir in the sage. Cook until the b.u.t.ter and the sage just begin to brown, about 2 minutes. Carefully and quickly pour the reserved cup of pasta water. Continue simmering until the sauce has been reduced by half, about 5 minutes.

14. Drain the ravioli and turn them into the pan. Toss and stir for 1 minute to warm through, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve. Drain the ravioli and turn them into the pan. Toss and stir for 1 minute to warm through, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve.

Chicken-Filled Dumplings in an Escarole Soup Cappelletti in Brodo (Italy) (Italy) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 6 ( 6 (MAKES ABOUT 80 80 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

This popular Christmas soup is filled with tiny, savory dumplings and silky shreds of chopped escarole. The body of these dumplings comes from chicken, but it is the bits of cured meat or sausage that makes them distinctively lavish. Mortadella, a pork sausage similar to bologna, is added in this recipe, along with a small amount of fresh pork. It takes time and planning to make them, a project made easier by the help of family and friends.

These dumplings are made using the Belly-b.u.t.ton Fold.

For the Filling2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, cut into chunks1 small skinless chicken breast with bones pound boneless pork loin pound mortadella cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese1 large egg, beaten2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepperFor the Dough1 recipe Ravioli di Pesce Ravioli di Pesce (Fish Ravioli with a Thinned Cream Sauce) dough, preferably made while the filling is being chilled, but no more than 1 hour in advance (Fish Ravioli with a Thinned Cream Sauce) dough, preferably made while the filling is being chilled, but no more than 1 hour in advanceUnbleached all-purpose flour for dustingFor the Soup*1 recipe (2 quarts) Beef and Chicken Broth1 small head escarole, trimmed and cut into1-inch pieces1 teaspoon saltEquipment2-inch round cookie cutterLarge, wide bowl to hold the dumplings cooked in batches 1. MAKE THE FILLING MAKE THE FILLING: Place the b.u.t.ter and 1 cup water in a small pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the chicken and pork, cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 5 minutes. Flip the chicken and pork over, cover, and cook for 5 minutes longer. Drain and place the meat in a medium bowl. Place the b.u.t.ter and 1 cup water in a small pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the chicken and pork, cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 5 minutes. Flip the chicken and pork over, cover, and cook for 5 minutes longer. Drain and place the meat in a medium bowl.

2. Once the meat is cool enough to handle, pull the chicken meat off the bones and discard the bones. Chop the chicken and the pork into very fine pieces and return it to the bowl. Finely chop the mortadella and mix it into the chopped meat. Mix in the Parmesan, egg, parsley, teaspoon salt, and pepper. Cover and refrigerate for 30 to 60 minutes before a.s.sembling the dumplings. Once the meat is cool enough to handle, pull the chicken meat off the bones and discard the bones. Chop the chicken and the pork into very fine pieces and return it to the bowl. Finely chop the mortadella and mix it into the chopped meat. Mix in the Parmesan, egg, parsley, teaspoon salt, and pepper. Cover and refrigerate for 30 to 60 minutes before a.s.sembling the dumplings.

3. a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS: Before a.s.sembling the Before a.s.sembling the cappelletti, cappelletti, review the Belly-b.u.t.ton Fold. review the Belly-b.u.t.ton Fold.

4. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Have ready the dough and the filling. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Have ready the dough and the filling.

5. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 4 equal pieces, and set 3 of them aside under a kitchen towel. Shape the remaining piece into a ball, then roll it out until it"s 1/16 inch thick. This dough should not be thicker than 1/16 inch, even thinner would be ideal. (For tips on how to roll dough out thin, see Tips.) Take your time and sprinkle with flour if it gets sticky. Let the rolled-out dough relax for a couple of minutes before cutting out rounds. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 4 equal pieces, and set 3 of them aside under a kitchen towel. Shape the remaining piece into a ball, then roll it out until it"s 1/16 inch thick. This dough should not be thicker than 1/16 inch, even thinner would be ideal. (For tips on how to roll dough out thin, see Tips.) Take your time and sprinkle with flour if it gets sticky. Let the rolled-out dough relax for a couple of minutes before cutting out rounds.

6. Using the cookie cutter, cut out as many rounds as you can, usually 16 to 20. Sc.r.a.ps cannot be reused, because dough is rolled out this thin is too dry to recombine. Using the cookie cutter, cut out as many rounds as you can, usually 16 to 20. Sc.r.a.ps cannot be reused, because dough is rolled out this thin is too dry to recombine.

7. Lay flat 1 to 5 dough rounds. Brush each round with a very thin coating of water to make it sticky enough to seal. Place a rounded teaspoon of filling in the center of each round, then fold each round neatly in half, pushing out any air, and pinch to seal. Pick up one of the half-moons and join and pinch its ends together behind the base or "belly" of the dumpling. Dab a little water on the ends, if needed, for a better seal. Repeat with the remaining half-moons. Place the a.s.sembled dumplings in a single layer on the prepared tray and keep them covered with a kitchen towel. Once you have a.s.sembled the first batch of dumplings, continue with the remaining dough and filling. Lay flat 1 to 5 dough rounds. Brush each round with a very thin coating of water to make it sticky enough to seal. Place a rounded teaspoon of filling in the center of each round, then fold each round neatly in half, pushing out any air, and pinch to seal. Pick up one of the half-moons and join and pinch its ends together behind the base or "belly" of the dumpling. Dab a little water on the ends, if needed, for a better seal. Repeat with the remaining half-moons. Place the a.s.sembled dumplings in a single layer on the prepared tray and keep them covered with a kitchen towel. Once you have a.s.sembled the first batch of dumplings, continue with the remaining dough and filling.

8. Cover the tray of a.s.sembled dumplings and place in the refrigerator for 30 to 60 minutes before cooking. Chilling them helps to set the dough, making the dumplings firm and toothsome when cooked instead of puffy and soft. Set aside the number of dumplings that you would like to cook and keep the rest frozen for up to 6 months (see Tips). Cover the tray of a.s.sembled dumplings and place in the refrigerator for 30 to 60 minutes before cooking. Chilling them helps to set the dough, making the dumplings firm and toothsome when cooked instead of puffy and soft. Set aside the number of dumplings that you would like to cook and keep the rest frozen for up to 6 months (see Tips).

9. COOK THE DUMPLINGS COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Pour the broth into a medium pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Stir in the escarole and 1 teaspoon salt, cover, reduce the heat to very low, and keep at a bare simmer until the dumplings are ready to be added. Pour the broth into a medium pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Stir in the escarole and 1 teaspoon salt, cover, reduce the heat to very low, and keep at a bare simmer until the dumplings are ready to be added.

10. Fill a large pot halfway with salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer. Fill a large pot halfway with salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer.

11. Gently drop a few dozen Gently drop a few dozen cappelletti cappelletti into the simmering water. Stir carefully to prevent sticking. Cook until all of them are floating, 2 to 3 minutes, then cook for 3 minutes longer. (If cooking frozen into the simmering water. Stir carefully to prevent sticking. Cook until all of them are floating, 2 to 3 minutes, then cook for 3 minutes longer. (If cooking frozen cappelletti, cappelletti, add them directly to the simmering water and increase the cooking time by 1 minute. Do not allow the add them directly to the simmering water and increase the cooking time by 1 minute. Do not allow the cappelletti cappelletti to thaw before cooking.) to thaw before cooking.) 12. Using a slotted spoon, remove the dumplings, place them in the large bowl, and drizzle with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Cook any remaining dumplings and place them in the bowl with another ladle of the cooking liquid. Using a slotted spoon, remove the dumplings, place them in the large bowl, and drizzle with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Cook any remaining dumplings and place them in the bowl with another ladle of the cooking liquid.

13. Drain the Drain the cappelletti cappelletti and add them to the hot soup. Cook for 1 minute to warm through and serve. and add them to the hot soup. Cook for 1 minute to warm through and serve.

Dumplings Stuffed with "Stewed" Bread Crumbs Anolini di Parma (Italy) (Italy) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 8 ( 8 (MAKES ABOUT 50 50 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

Inside these small pockets of dough is a creamy filling of bread crumbs that have been soaked in a super-rich beef broth. Stracotto Stracotto is meat that is slow roasted until it is well beyond fork-tender. For these dumplings, the roasting process can go on all day with the idea being to sacrifice the edibleness of the meat in order to create a lush and concentrated sauce. A more accommodating cooking time of 2 to 3 hours will still provide you with a delicious sauce for your bread crumbs and will also leave the meat perfectly cooked and ready to be eaten in subsequent meals. is meat that is slow roasted until it is well beyond fork-tender. For these dumplings, the roasting process can go on all day with the idea being to sacrifice the edibleness of the meat in order to create a lush and concentrated sauce. A more accommodating cooking time of 2 to 3 hours will still provide you with a delicious sauce for your bread crumbs and will also leave the meat perfectly cooked and ready to be eaten in subsequent meals.

For the Stracotto Sauce4 tablespoons ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, cut into chunks2 pounds beef rump roast1 medium carrot, chopped coa.r.s.e1 celery rib, chopped coa.r.s.e cup red wine6 cups Beef and Chicken Broth1 teaspoon tomato pasteFor the Filling3 cups coa.r.s.e fresh crustless white bread crumbs (see Glossary of Ingredients) cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese teaspoon freshly ground black pepperFor the Dough1 recipe Ravioli di Pesce Ravioli di Pesce (Fish Ravioli with a Thinned Cream Sauce) dough, preferably made while the filling is being chilled, but no longer than 1 hour in advance (Fish Ravioli with a Thinned Cream Sauce) dough, preferably made while the filling is being chilled, but no longer than 1 hour in advanceUnbleached all-purpose flour for dustingFor the Soup*1 recipe (2 quarts) Beef and Chicken Broth1 teaspoon saltEquipmentLarge, wide bowl to hold the dumplings cooked in batches 1. MAKE THE SAUCE FOR THE FILLING 3 TO 8 HOURS IN ADVANCE MAKE THE SAUCE FOR THE FILLING 3 TO 8 HOURS IN ADVANCE: Melt the b.u.t.ter in a medium pot over medium-high heat. Add the rump roast and cook until its underside has browned, 5 to 6 minutes. Turn the beef and brown the other sides, 3 to 4 minutes longer on each side. Carefully move the meat to a bowl, leaving the b.u.t.tery fat behind. Add the carrot and celery to the pot and cook for 3 minutes, stirring occasionally. Pour in the wine and sc.r.a.pe up any bits from the bottom of the pot with a wooden spoon. Return the beef and any of its drippings back into the pot and pour in 4 cups of the broth. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 2 to 3 hours. Turn the meat every half hour and pour in cup of the remaining broth each time. (You can cook the beef for up to 8 hours for an even richer, more intensely flavored sauce. Meat that is cooked this long will be dry, have very little flavor, and should be discarded.) Melt the b.u.t.ter in a medium pot over medium-high heat. Add the rump roast and cook until its underside has browned, 5 to 6 minutes. Turn the beef and brown the other sides, 3 to 4 minutes longer on each side. Carefully move the meat to a bowl, leaving the b.u.t.tery fat behind. Add the carrot and celery to the pot and cook for 3 minutes, stirring occasionally. Pour in the wine and sc.r.a.pe up any bits from the bottom of the pot with a wooden spoon. Return the beef and any of its drippings back into the pot and pour in 4 cups of the broth. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 2 to 3 hours. Turn the meat every half hour and pour in cup of the remaining broth each time. (You can cook the beef for up to 8 hours for an even richer, more intensely flavored sauce. Meat that is cooked this long will be dry, have very little flavor, and should be discarded.) 2. Remove the meat and the vegetables, place in a bowl, and set aside to cool. Strain the sauce into a pan, stir in the tomato paste, and place over medium heat. Simmer, uncovered, until the sauce reduces to about Remove the meat and the vegetables, place in a bowl, and set aside to cool. Strain the sauce into a pan, stir in the tomato paste, and place over medium heat. Simmer, uncovered, until the sauce reduces to about 1 1/3 cup, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove it from the heat and allow it to cool slightly. (You can also make the sauce in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container for up to 1 week. Warm the sauce slightly before adding it to the bread crumbs.) cup, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove it from the heat and allow it to cool slightly. (You can also make the sauce in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container for up to 1 week. Warm the sauce slightly before adding it to the bread crumbs.) 3. MAKE THE FILLING MAKE THE FILLING: Place 2 cups of the bread crumbs in a medium bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Drizzle the warm sauce over the bread crumbs and stir until all the liquid has been absorbed. This mixture is just thick enough to hold its shape when scooped up with a spoon. If it is too wet, mix in some of the remaining bread crumbs, a little at a time. Mix in the Parmesan and the pepper. Cover and refrigerate for 30 to 60 minutes before a.s.sembling the dumplings. Place 2 cups of the bread crumbs in a medium bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Drizzle the warm sauce over the bread crumbs and stir until all the liquid has been absorbed. This mixture is just thick enough to hold its shape when scooped up with a spoon. If it is too wet, mix in some of the remaining bread crumbs, a little at a time. Mix in the Parmesan and the pepper. Cover and refrigerate for 30 to 60 minutes before a.s.sembling the dumplings.

4. a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS: Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Have ready the dough and the filling. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Have ready the dough and the filling.

5. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 4 equal pieces, and set 3 of them aside under a kitchen towel. Shape the remaining piece into a blunt log, then roll it out into a 10-inch square. This dough should not be thicker than 1/16 inch, even thinner would be ideal. (For tips on how to roll dough out thin, see Tips.) Take your time and sprinkle with flour if it gets sticky. Let the rolled-out dough relax for a couple of minutes. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 4 equal pieces, and set 3 of them aside under a kitchen towel. Shape the remaining piece into a blunt log, then roll it out into a 10-inch square. This dough should not be thicker than 1/16 inch, even thinner would be ideal. (For tips on how to roll dough out thin, see Tips.) Take your time and sprinkle with flour if it gets sticky. Let the rolled-out dough relax for a couple of minutes.

6. Trim the rounded edges, creating a cleaner square shape. Cut the dough into 2-inch strips, then cut again going across the strips every 2 inches to form 25 squares. Place the squares in a single layer on the prepared tray. Keep the squares covered with a kitchen towel as you work. Sc.r.a.ps cannot be reused because dough rolled out this thin is too dry to recombine. Trim the rounded edges, creating a cleaner square shape. Cut the dough into 2-inch strips, then cut again going across the strips every 2 inches to form 25 squares. Place the squares in a single layer on the prepared tray. Keep the squares covered with a kitchen towel as you work. Sc.r.a.ps cannot be reused because dough rolled out this thin is too dry to recombine.

7. Lay flat 4 to 8 dough squares. Brush half of them with a very thin coating of water to make them sticky enough to seal. Place a rounded teaspoon of filling in the center of each dampened square. Top each spoonful of filling with an unbrushed square, lining up the corners to create little sandwiches. Pinch the edges of the squares together, pushing out any air, and seal. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. You can trim or crimp the edges for a more tailored look. Place the a.s.sembled dumplings in a single layer on the prepared tray and keep them covered with a kitchen towel while you continue to fill the remaining squares. Once you have a.s.sembled the first batch of dumplings, continue with the remaining dough and filling. Lay flat 4 to 8 dough squares. Brush half of them with a very thin coating of water to make them sticky enough to seal. Place a rounded teaspoon of filling in the center of each dampened square. Top each spoonful of filling with an unbrushed square, lining up the corners to create little sandwiches. Pinch the edges of the squares together, pushing out any air, and seal. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. You can trim or crimp the edges for a more tailored look. Place the a.s.sembled dumplings in a single layer on the prepared tray and keep them covered with a kitchen towel while you continue to fill the remaining squares. Once you have a.s.sembled the first batch of dumplings, continue with the remaining dough and filling.

8. Cover the tray of a.s.sembled dumplings and place in the refrigerator for 30 to 60 minutes before cooking. Chilling them helps to set the dough, making the dumplings firm and toothsome when cooked instead of puffy and soft. Set aside the number of dumplings that you would like to cook and keep the rest frozen for up to 6 months (see Tips). Cover the tray of a.s.sembled dumplings and place in the refrigerator for 30 to 60 minutes before cooking. Chilling them helps to set the dough, making the dumplings firm and toothsome when cooked instead of puffy and soft. Set aside the number of dumplings that you would like to cook and keep the rest frozen for up to 6 months (see Tips).

9. COOK THE DUMPLINGS COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Pour the 2 quarts of broth into a medium pot, stir in the salt, and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to very low, and keep at a gentle simmer until the dumplings are added. Pour the 2 quarts of broth into a medium pot, stir in the salt, and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to very low, and keep at a gentle simmer until the dumplings are added.

10. Fill a large pot halfway with salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer. Gently drop a few dozen dumplings, a few at a time, into the water. Stir carefully to prevent sticking. Cook until all of them are floating, 2 to 3 minutes, then cook for 3 minutes longer. (If cooking frozen Fill a large pot halfway with salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer. Gently drop a few dozen dumplings, a few at a time, into the water. Stir carefully to prevent sticking. Cook until all of them are floating, 2 to 3 minutes, then cook for 3 minutes longer. (If cooking frozen anolini, anolini, add them directly to the simmering water and increase the cooking time by 1 minute. Do not allow the add them directly to the simmering water and increase the cooking time by 1 minute. Do not allow the anolini anolini to thaw before cooking.) to thaw before cooking.) 11. Using a slotted spoon, remove the dumplings, place them in the large bowl, and drizzle with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Cook the remaining dumplings and place them in the bowl with another ladle of the cooking liquid. Using a slotted spoon, remove the dumplings, place them in the large bowl, and drizzle with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Cook the remaining dumplings and place them in the bowl with another ladle of the cooking liquid.

12. Drain the Drain the anolini anolini and turn them into the simmering broth. Cook for 1 minute to warm through and serve. and turn them into the simmering broth. Cook for 1 minute to warm through and serve.BrothsCHICKEN BROTH WITH VARIATIONS.

PORK BROTH WITH VARIATIONS.

BEEF BROTH WITH VARIATIONS.

BEEF AND CHICKEN BROTH.

Chicken Broth MAKES ABOUT 2 QUARTS WITH 5 TO 6 CUPS SHREDDED MEAT.

One 4- to 5-pound chicken, cut into serving pieces, skin removed, and trimmed of excess fat2 teaspoons salt2 teaspoons black peppercorns 1. Place the chicken, salt, and peppercorns in a large pot. Pour in 10 cups water and bring it to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 2 hours. Skim the froth off the surface with a spoon. Place the chicken, salt, and peppercorns in a large pot. Pour in 10 cups water and bring it to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 2 hours. Skim the froth off the surface with a spoon.

2. Remove from the heat, take out the chicken pieces with a slotted spoon or tongs, and place them in a bowl to cool. Strain the broth through a sieve and skim off the fat. Chilling the broth makes removing the fat easier. Remove from the heat, take out the chicken pieces with a slotted spoon or tongs, and place them in a bowl to cool. Strain the broth through a sieve and skim off the fat. Chilling the broth makes removing the fat easier.

3. Once the chicken is cool enough to handle, pull the meat off the bones and tear it into bite-sized pieces. Discard the bones. Measure out enough broth or chicken for your chosen recipe and keep the rest refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 6 months. Once the chicken is cool enough to handle, pull the meat off the bones and tear it into bite-sized pieces. Discard the bones. Measure out enough broth or chicken for your chosen recipe and keep the rest refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 6 months.

With Mexican Flavors Add the following when adding the chicken: 1 white onion, unpeeled and quartered3 garlic cloves, unpeeled and crushed With Puerto Rican Flavors Add the following when adding the chicken: 1 yellow onion, unpeeled and quartered2 green bell peppers, cored and quartered4 fresh culantro culantro ( (recao) stems With Chinese Flavors Add the following when adding the chicken: 2 large carrots, unpeeled and cut into large pieces1 small head napa cabbage, cut into 1-inch ribbons Pork Broth MAKES ABOUT 2 2 QUARTS WITH QUARTS WITH 6 6 TO TO 7 7 CUPS SHREDDED MEAT CUPS SHREDDED MEAT.

4 to 5 pounds boneless pork shoulder or b.u.t.t meat, cut into large serving-size pieces2 teaspoons salt2 teaspoons black peppercorns 1. Place the pork, salt, and peppercorns in a large pot. Pour in 10 cups water and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 3 hours. Skim the froth off the surface with a spoon. Place the pork, salt, and peppercorns in a large pot. Pour in 10 cups water and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 3 hours. Skim the froth off the surface with a spoon.

2. Remove from the heat, take out the pork pieces with a slotted spoon or tongs, and place in a bowl to cool. Strain the broth through a sieve and skim off the fat. Chilling the broth makes removing the fat easier. Remove from the heat, take out the pork pieces with a slotted spoon or tongs, and place in a bowl to cool. Strain the broth through a sieve and skim off the fat. Chilling the broth makes removing the fat easier.

3. Once the pork is cool enough to handle, pull the meat off the bones and tear it into bite-sized pieces. Discard the bones. Measure out enough broth or pork for your chosen recipe and keep the rest refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 6 months. Once the pork is cool enough to handle, pull the meat off the bones and tear it into bite-sized pieces. Discard the bones. Measure out enough broth or pork for your chosen recipe and keep the rest refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 6 months.

With Mexican Flavors Add the following when adding the pork: 1 white onion, unpeeled and quartered3 garlic cloves, unpeeled and crushed Beef Broth MAKES ABOUT 2 2 QUARTS WITH QUARTS WITH 5 5 TO TO 6 6 CUPS SHREDDED MEAT CUPS SHREDDED MEAT.

3 pounds lean beef stew meat, such as rump or brisket, cut into serving-size pieces3 pounds meaty beef bones, such as shank, rib, or neck2 teaspoons salt2 teaspoon black peppercorns 1. Place the stew meat, beef bones, salt, and peppercorns in a large pot. Pour in 3 quarts water and bring it to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 3 to 4 hours. Skim the froth off the surface with a spoon. Place the stew meat, beef bones, salt, and peppercorns in a large pot. Pour in 3 quarts water and bring it to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 3 to 4 hours. Skim the froth off the surface with a spoon.

2. Remove from the heat, take out the beef pieces with a slotted spoon or tongs, and place them in a bowl to cool. Strain the broth through a sieve and skim off the fat. Chilling the broth makes removing the fat easier. Remove from the heat, take out the beef pieces with a slotted spoon or tongs, and place them in a bowl to cool. Strain the broth through a sieve and skim off the fat. Chilling the broth makes removing the fat easier.

3. Once the beef is cool enough to handle, pull the meat off the bones and tear into bite-sized pieces. Discard the bones. Measure out enough broth or beef for your chosen recipe and keep the rest refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 6 months. Once the beef is cool enough to handle, pull the meat off the bones and tear into bite-sized pieces. Discard the bones. Measure out enough broth or beef for your chosen recipe and keep the rest refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 6 months.

With British Flavors Add the following when adding the beef: 1 large yellow onion, unpeeled and quartered1 leek, rinsed clean and cut into large pieces3 carrots, unpeeled and cut into large pieces3 celery ribs, unpeeled and cut into large pieces 3 fresh thyme sprigs bunch fresh flat-leaf parsley1 bay leaf3 whole cloves With Hungarian Flavors Add the following when adding the beef: 1 large yellow onion, unpeeled and quartered3 carrots, unpeeled and cut into large pieces3 parsnips, unpeeled and cut into large pieces1 kohlrabi, quartered1 celery root, unpeeled and cut into large pieces2 garlic cloves, crushed bunch fresh flat-leaf parsley With German Flavors Add the following when adding the beef: 2 leeks, rinsed clean and cut into large pieces1 small yellow onion, unpeeled and quartered3 carrots, unpeeled and cut into large pieces3 small parsnips, unpeeled and cut into large pieces1 small celery root or turnip, unpeeled and cut into large pieces bunch fresh flat-leaf parsley With American Flavors Add the following when adding the beef: 3 pounds meaty beef bones1 medium onion, unpeeled and quartered2 carrots, unpeeled and cut into large pieces2 celery ribs, cut into large pieces bunch fresh flat-leaf parsley 2 celery ribs, cut into large pieces5 to 6 fresh thyme sprigs Beef and Chicken Broth MAKES ABOUT 2 2 QUARTS WITH QUARTS WITH 5 5 TO TO 6 6 CUPS SHREDDED MEAT CUPS SHREDDED MEAT.

1 pound lean beef stew meat, such as rump or brisket, cut into serving-size pieces2 pounds meaty beef bones, such as shank, rib, or neck2 pounds chicken (about chicken), cut into serving pieces, skin removed, and trimmed of excess fat2 teaspoons salt1 small yellow onion, unpeeled and quartered1 large carrot, unpeeled and cut into large pieces1 celery rib, cut into large pieces2 plum tomatoes, quartered1 bay leaf bunch fresh flat-leaf parsley2 teaspoons black peppercorns 1. Place all the ingredients in a large pot with 3 quarts water. Bring it to a boil over high heat, cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 3 to 4 hours. Skim the froth off the surface with a spoon. Place all the ingredients in a large pot with 3 quarts water. Bring it to a boil over high heat, cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 3 to 4 hours. Skim the froth off the surface with a spoon.

2. Remove from the heat, take out the beef and chicken pieces with a slotted spoon or tongs, and place them in a bowl to cool. Strain the broth through a sieve and skim off the fat. Chilling the broth makes removing the fat easier. Remove from the heat, take out the beef and chicken pieces with a slotted spoon or tongs, and place them in a bowl to cool. Strain the broth through a sieve and skim off the fat. Chilling the broth makes removing the fat easier.

3. Once the chicken and beef are cool enough to handle, pull the meat off the chicken bones and tear it into bite-sized pieces. Discard the bones. Pull the beef apart into bite-sized pieces. Measure out enough broth or meat for your chosen recipe and keep the rest refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 6 months. Once the chicken and beef are cool enough to handle, pull the meat off the chicken bones and tear it into bite-sized pieces. Discard the bones. Pull the beef apart into bite-sized pieces. Measure out enough broth or meat for your chosen recipe and keep the rest refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 6 months.

Acknowledgments.

We would like to thank our agent, Stacey Glick, of Dystel & G.o.derich Literary Management, and our editor, Stephanie Fraser, both of whom saw this book over more than a few impressive hurdles. We also thank our families, Yee Fan Chu, Rose Ng, Amanda Lovatt, and Jennifer, Jim, Henry, and Molly Romeo. We are forever grateful to Susan Friedland for believing in the possibilities of dumplings and to Harriet Bell and Maureen O"Brien for shepherding the pages within this book. A special thank you to Lorie Young, Christine Benton, Ann Cahn, Kris Tobia.s.sen, and everyone at HarperCollins for all of their hard work and care and for transforming our ma.n.u.script into a book. Special thanks to Brandon Harman and Eli Schmidt for all they did to bring the beauty of dumplings to the page. Our appreciation and grat.i.tude to Jeffra and Yash Nandan, Ann and Herman Silverman, Lindsay de Jongh, Stephanie Sugawara, Jon Cohen, Amy Holman, Edward and Tina Baluyut, Ted Calamia, Bill Callahan, Celeste Carrasco, Christine Carroll, Joanne Chan, Connie Chiang, Jonas Damon and Joann Rha, the Dillworth clan, Dong Pui Chun, Marilyn Fein, Dorie Greenspan, Gepsie Harvey, Karen Heaselgrave, Dr. Steven Herman, Nancy Hruska, Amanda and Julie Johns, Anuree Kengrian, Margaret Kornberg, Huy Voun Lee and Seiji Ikuta, Ruth Leiman, Li Gui Hua, Fredrik Larsson and James Anthony, Lorenzo, Kathleen Masterson, the Molly clan, Gita Nandan, Kelly Notaras, Sue Ling Ng, Gail O"Hara, Steve Pilgrim, Bertha Rogers, Linda Rosciano, Alexandra Rowley, Jenny Silverman, Shannon Sinclair, Tiana and Kenny Tang, Wanda Tantayopin, Dianna and Hao Hui w.a.n.g, Adam and Illaria Woodward, Ruiqiang Wu and Guichan Mo, and Qiling Wu.Dumplings by Region and CountryNORTH AND WEST EUROPE.

Bacon and Sage Roly-Poly (England) Beef and Oyster Stew with Suet Dumplings (England) Cabinet Pudding, a Cake and Almond Cookie Pudding (England) Canary Pudding with Lemon Curd (England) Chocolate Bread Crumb Pudding (England) Cla.s.sic Christmas Pudding (England) Clootie Dumpling (Scotland) Country Cabbage Soup with Large Cornmeal Dumplings, Soupe aux Miques et aux Choux Soupe aux Miques et aux Choux (France) (France) John in the Sack, Jan in de Zak Jan in de Zak (Holland) (Holland) Lord Randall"s Pudding, an Apricot Dessert (England) Matzo b.a.l.l.s in a Beef Broth, Fleischsuppe mit Matzoknepfle Fleischsuppe mit Matzoknepfle (France) (France) Oat and Honey Pudding (Ireland) Potato Dumplings Stuffed with Ham, Kroppkakor Kroppkakor (Sweden) (Sweden) Spiced Carrot Pudding (England) Sticky Toffee Pudding (England) ITALY.

Chestnut Gnocchi with Walnut Sauce, Gnocchi di Castagne con Salsa di Noci Gnocchi di Castagne con Salsa di Noci Chestnut Ravioli with Sage b.u.t.ter Sauce, Ravioli di Castagne Ravioli di Castagne Chicken-Filled Dumplings in an Escarole Soup, Cappelletti in Brodo Cappelletti in Brodo Dumplings Stuffed with Pears, Figs, and Chocolate, Cialzons alla Frutta Cialzons alla Frutta Dumplings Stuffed with "Stewed" Bread Crumbs, Anolini di Parma Anolini di Parma Fish Ravioli with a Thinned Cream Sauce, Ravioli di Pesce Ravioli di Pesce Potato Gnocchi, Gnocchi di Patate Gnocchi di Patate "Priest Stranglers" with Brown b.u.t.ter and Sage, Strangolapreti Strangolapreti Pumpkin and Lentil Ravioli with Browned b.u.t.ter and Rosemary, Ravioli di Zucca e Lenticchie Ravioli di Zucca e Lenticchie Semolina Dumplings with b.u.t.ter and Cheese Sauce, Frascatelli Frascatelli Tiny Gnocchi and Cranberry Bean Stew, Pisarei e Faso Pisarei e Faso CENTRAL AND EASTERN EUROPE.

Bean Soup with Tiny Dumplings, Csipetke Csipetke (Hungary) (Hungary) Bread and Semolina Loaf, Houskove Knedliky Houskove Knedliky (Czech Republic) (Czech Republic) b.u.t.ter-Tossed Spaetzle, Spatzle Spatzle (Germany) (Germany) Cauliflower Soup with b.u.t.tery Bread Crumb Dumplings, Kv Kvtakova Polevka s Knedliky (Czech Republic) (Czech Republic) Chicken Paprika with Dumplings, Csirke Paprikas Galuskaval Csirke Paprikas Galuskaval (Hungary) (Hungary) Kasha and Mushroom Pierogi, Pierogi z Kasz Pierogi z Kasz Gryczan Gryczan (Poland) (Poland) Large Beef- and