The New Book of Middle Eastern Food

Chapter 11

Saute the onion in the oil with the peppers, stirring occasionally, until the onion is golden and the peppers are very soft and lightly colored. Add garlic, and when the aroma rises, add the tomatoes. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and cook until the tomatoes have softened.

Brush the fish generously with olive oil and cook under a preheated broiler for 4 minutes on each side.

Serve the fish on a bed of the sauteed vegetables. Dribble on a little raw olive oil, and sprinkle with lemon juice.

Balik Pilaki Cold Fish in Oil with Vegetables Serves 6-8 * This Turkish specialty, popular throughout most of the Middle East, makes a good first course or cold buffet dish. Sliced swordfish is generally used, but most fish available in America are also suitable. * This Turkish specialty, popular throughout most of the Middle East, makes a good first course or cold buffet dish. Sliced swordfish is generally used, but most fish available in America are also suitable.

2 pounds fish: whole red mullet or mackerel, or a piece of a larger fish, sliced Olive oil 2 large onions, sliced 2 green peppers, seeded and sliced 2 cloves garlic, chopped 1 pound tomatoes, skinned and sliced cup chopped flat-leaf parsley 1 tablespoon tomato paste Salt and pepper About a dozen green or black olives, pitted or not (optional) Pan-fry the fish in a few tablespoons olive oil until lightly colored but not quite cooked inside, then lift out and reserve.

Clean the pan. Fry the onions in 3 tablespoons oil until soft and golden. Add the sliced green peppers and fry until soft and sweet. Add the chopped garlic and fry for a moment more. Finally, add the tomatoes, chopped parsley, and tomato paste diluted in about cup water. Season to taste with salt and pepper, stir well, bring to the boil, and simmer for 15 minutes.

Lay the fish in the sauce carefully, so that the pieces are well covered, and cook for a further 5-10 minutes or until done, adding a little water if necessary. A few olives, blanched in boiling water to remove excess salt, can be added towards the end. Arrange the fish in a serving dish with sauce over it. Serve cold.

Yakhnit Samak bel Zafaran Fish Stew with Onions and Saffron Serves 4-6 * An old Arab dish, popular in Syria, Lebanon, and Egypt. It is very lemony, and sometimes saffron is replaced by turmeric. All kinds offish can be used. Serve with plain rice, or rice with vermicelli (see page 340). * An old Arab dish, popular in Syria, Lebanon, and Egypt. It is very lemony, and sometimes saffron is replaced by turmeric. All kinds offish can be used. Serve with plain rice, or rice with vermicelli (see page 340).

2 onions, cut in half and sliced 4 tablespoons vegetable or olive oil 2-4 cloves garlic, crushed Juice of 2-3 lemons teaspoon crushed saffron threads or powdered saffron Salt and white pepper 2 pounds skinned fish fillets or steaks Fry the onions in 2 tablespoons of the oil till golden. Add the garlic, and just as it begins to color, add the lemon juice, the saffron, a little salt, and about 1 cup water. Simmer for 10-15 minutes.

Fry the fish pieces very briefly in a skillet filmed with oil over high heat, turning them over once, until lightly colored but still uncooked inside. Lift them out, drain on paper towels, and put them in the pan with the onion sauce.

Simmer, covered, over very low heat, so that the liquid barely trembles, until the fish is done-about 3 to 5 minutes for fillets, up to 10 minutes for steaks.

Variation For samak bi loomi samak bi loomi, a version from the Gulf States, use 3 tablespoons ground dried limes (see page 44) instead of lemon, turmeric instead of saffron, plus 1 teaspoon crushed cardamom seeds.

Tagen Samak bel Cozbara Fish Stew with Tomatoes and Coriander Seed Serves 4 * A favorite Egyptian flavoring is a mix of fried garlic and coriander. This dish is a specialty of Alexandria, where it is usually baked in a clay dish called a * A favorite Egyptian flavoring is a mix of fried garlic and coriander. This dish is a specialty of Alexandria, where it is usually baked in a clay dish called a tagen tagen (it is deeper than Moroccan tagines and with straight sides). You can make it with any white fish-steaks or fillets. Serve it with plain rice (page 338) or rice with vermicelli (page 340). (it is deeper than Moroccan tagines and with straight sides). You can make it with any white fish-steaks or fillets. Serve it with plain rice (page 338) or rice with vermicelli (page 340).

1 pounds fish-fillets or steaks 3 tablespoons vegetable oil Salt and pepper 6 or 7 cloves garlic, crushed 1-2 teaspoons ground coriander 1 pounds tomatoes, peeled and chopped 1-2 teaspoons sugar In a large skillet, fry the fish briefly in the oil until lightly browned, but still uncooked inside, turning it over once and sprinkling with salt and pepper. Then lift it out.

Fry the garlic and the coriander together in the same oil over low heat for moments only, stirring, until the aroma rises. Add the tomatoes, stir in the sugar and a little salt and pepper, and cook for 15 minutes. Return the fish to the pan and cook for 2-5 minutes, or until it is done to your liking.

Variation For cozbareyet al samak cozbareyet al samak, cut the fish into chunks and fry briefly in oil. Lift out when it is done. In a small pan, heat 3 tablespoons olive oil with 5 or 6 crushed garlic cloves and 1-1 teaspoons ground coriander until the garlic begins to color. Pour over the fish.

Fish with Quinces Serves 6-8 * Tunisia is famous for her fish dishes and her fish couscous. Here is one of the prestigious dishes which can be served with couscous. Prepare couscous as in the recipe on page 375 so that it is ready at the same time. * Tunisia is famous for her fish dishes and her fish couscous. Here is one of the prestigious dishes which can be served with couscous. Prepare couscous as in the recipe on page 375 so that it is ready at the same time.

4 or 5 cloves garlic, chopped 3 tablespoons olive oil 2 pounds tomatoes, peeled and chopped Salt 2 teaspoons sugar 1 or 2 chilies, cut open and seeded I inches fresh gingerroot teaspoon crushed saffron threads or powdered saffron cup raisins 2 or 3 quinces, peeled and sliced (2 if very large) 2 pounds fillets of bream or other fish, such as cod or haddock Fry the garlic in the oil until it only just begins to color. Add the tomatoes, salt, and sugar, and put in the chilies. Peel and grate the ginger, or cut it into small pieces and crush it in a garlic press to extract the juice over the pan. Add the saffron and the raisins and simmer over low heat. Put in the quinces as you peel them so that they do not turn brown. They are a very hard fruit, and you need a large strong knife to cut them.

Cook, covered, for 15 to 30 minutes, or until the quinces are tender. The time varies depending on the size, quality, and ripeness of the fruit. Remove one or both of the chilies when you think the sauce is hot enough. Five to 10 minutes before serving, add the fish, and simmer until the flesh begins to flake. Serve the fish stew and the couscous in separate dishes.

Stewed Eel with Onions, Honey, and Raisins Serves 6 * A specialty of the port of Sale, this is one of the rare fish couscous dishes of Morocco. The eel is usually cooked in a saffron broth, but I prefer to saute the eel and serve it with a small portion of couscous (see page 375). The honeyed onions beautifully complement the delicate flavor of this fish. Have the eel skinned (the skin is tough and inedible) and cut into pieces or filleted by the fishmonger. * A specialty of the port of Sale, this is one of the rare fish couscous dishes of Morocco. The eel is usually cooked in a saffron broth, but I prefer to saute the eel and serve it with a small portion of couscous (see page 375). The honeyed onions beautifully complement the delicate flavor of this fish. Have the eel skinned (the skin is tough and inedible) and cut into pieces or filleted by the fishmonger.

2 pounds eels 2 pounds onions, cut in half and sliced thinly 5 tablespoons vegetable or extra-virgin olive oil 1 teaspoon cinnamon teaspoon crushed saffron threads or powdered saffron 1-2 tablespoons honey Juice of -1 lemon cup raisins Salt and pepper 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter Sprinkle the eels with a little salt.

Put the onions with 4 tablespoons oil in a large pan. Cook with the lid on over very low heat, stirring occasionally, until soft (they will stew in their own juice). It will take a long time because of the quant.i.ty. Take the lid off and cook, stirring often, until lightly golden. Add the cinnamon, saffron, honey, lemon juice, raisins, and a little salt and pepper. Stir well, and cook gently for 5 minutes.

In a large skillet, saute the eel in b.u.t.ter and the remaining tablespoon of oil, sprinkling with salt and pepper, until just cooked through. Serve on a bed of onions with couscous.

L"Hout Hraimy Peppery Hot and Garlicky Fish Serves 6 * A North African-particularly Libyan-specialty. Algerians call the piquant sauce * A North African-particularly Libyan-specialty. Algerians call the piquant sauce chet.i.tha chet.i.tha. The dish is not for everybody, and it is not for a delicate fish.

1 whole head of garlic 2 teaspoons tomato paste cup vegetable oil 1 teaspoon paprika 1 teaspoon c.u.min (optional) 1 teaspoon harissa (page 464) or - teaspoon ground chili pepper Salt Juice of 1 lemon 2 pounds fish fillets or steaks Peel the garlic and puree in a blender. Put it in a large skillet with the tomato paste and stir in the oil and the rest of the ingredients except the fish. Add 1 cup water, bring to the boil, and simmer 5 minutes. Put in the fish and cook over low heat for 3-10 minutes, turning over once, until the fish is cooked, adding a little water if it is too dry.

Serve hot.

Psari Plaki Baked Fish Serves 6 * In Egypt we called it * In Egypt we called it poisson a la grecque poisson a la grecque. All kinds of fish can be cooked in this way-small ones whole, and large ones cut into steaks. Serve hot or cold with good bread and a salad.

6 fish steaks, about 1 inch thick Salt and pepper Juice of -1 lemon 2 onions, sliced cup extra-virgin olive oil 3 cloves garlic, chopped 1 pound tomatoes, peeled and quartered 1 cup dry white wine cup chopped flat-leaf parsley Arrange the fish in a baking dish. Season with salt and pepper and sprinkle with lemon juice.

Fry the onions in 2 tablespoons of the oil until golden. Add the garlic, and as soon as it begins to color, add the tomatoes and the wine. Season with salt and pepper and simmer for about 20 minutes. Add the parsley, and pour over the fish.

Sprinkle on the remaining oil and bake in a preheated 325F oven for 20 minutes, or until the fish is opaque right through and flakes when you pierce it with a knife.

Variations Bake a large whole fish such as ba.s.s, red snapper, gray mullet, bluefish, or pompano in the same way. Bake at 425F for about 30 minutes, basting with the sauce occasionally.

Add sliced or cubed potatoes to the tomato sauce.

Taj en Samak bi Tahina Fish Baked in Tahina Sauce Serves 6 * This is very popular in Syria and Lebanon and can be served cold with salads such as tabbouleh (page 76) or hot with rice. * This is very popular in Syria and Lebanon and can be served cold with salads such as tabbouleh (page 76) or hot with rice.

2 pounds fish fillets, skinned and cut into 6 pieces Salt 2 large onions, cut in half and thinly sliced 2-3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 cup tahina - cup lemon juice, or to taste 1 cup water, or more as required cup chopped flat-leaf parsley 2 or 3 lemons, cut in wedges, to serve with Season the fish with salt.

In a large pan, sweat the onions in 2-3 tablespoons oil with the lid on over very low heat, stirring occasionally, until soft and just beginning to color.

Beat into the tahina the lemon juice and enough water to obtain a light creamy consistency (it will stiffen at first, before becoming smooth and runny). Add salt to taste.

Spread the onions on the bottom of a baking dish, lay the fish on top, and pour the sauce all over the fish. Bake in a preheated 400F oven for 20-30 minutes, or until the fish flakes easily. Serve sprinkled with parsley.

Variation Some fry the fish very briefly first, in shallow oil over high heat, so that it is lightly browned but not yet cooked inside, then bake it with the onions and the sauce for a further 10 minutes.

Shad Stuffed with Dates Serves 6 * This freshwater fish, found in the Sebou River, is popular in Morocco. It is fat but rather full of bones, and its delicate flesh is said to be at its best soon after sp.a.w.ning up-river. In America it is sold already boned, which makes stuffing easy. Dates are stuffed with rice and blanched almonds, and they, in turn, provide the stuffing for the fish. * This freshwater fish, found in the Sebou River, is popular in Morocco. It is fat but rather full of bones, and its delicate flesh is said to be at its best soon after sp.a.w.ning up-river. In America it is sold already boned, which makes stuffing easy. Dates are stuffed with rice and blanched almonds, and they, in turn, provide the stuffing for the fish.

cup finely chopped blanched almonds 2-3 tablespoons cooked rice 1 teaspoon sugar teaspoon ground cinnamon plus teaspoon to garnish (optional) Pepper teaspoon ground ginger 1-2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 8 ounces fresh dates (dried ones will do, but choose soft, juicy ones) A 3-pound boned shad Oil Salt onion, finely chopped Mix together the chopped almonds, rice, sugar, cinnamon, and a pinch each of pepper and ginger, and knead with a little b.u.t.ter to hold everything together.

Pit the dates and stuff them with the almond-rice mixture.

Rub the fish all over with oil, salt, pepper, and a little ground ginger. Open up the 2 top fillets and arrange the stuffed dates down the center, then replace the top fillets. Place the fish on a large, well-oiled sheet of foil and sprinkle with the finely chopped onion. Wrap the fish up neatly and seal the edges of the foil firmly. (The foil allows you to omit sewing up the fish.) Lay the parcel on a large baking pan.

Bake in a preheated 350F oven, about 15 minutes per pound, or until the flesh begins to flake when you cut into the thickest part with a pointed knife. Then unwrap the foil and place the fish under the broiler to become crisply golden. Serve dusted with cinnamon if you like.

Sayyadiah Fish with Rice Serves 8-10 * This is a very popular Arab dish. There are white and brown versions, which depend on whether you let the onions go brown or not. Use skinned fillets offish such as bream, turbot, haddock, cod, or halibut. * This is a very popular Arab dish. There are white and brown versions, which depend on whether you let the onions go brown or not. Use skinned fillets offish such as bream, turbot, haddock, cod, or halibut.

Vegetable oil 4 or 5 large onions, sliced Salt 1 teaspoon ground c.u.min or allspice 2 pounds skinned fish fillets Juice of -1 lemon 1 pound long-grain rice, washed In a large saucepan, fry the onions in 2 or 3 tablespoons oil over very low heat, with the lid on, until soft and transparent but still white, stirring occasionally. Let them get dark brown if you want a brown sayyadiah sayyadiah. Add about 5 cups water and simmer until the onions have nearly melted. You can leave the onions as they are, or blend them to a pulp with some of the liquid.

Return them to the pan, and season with salt and c.u.min or allspice. Add the fish and simmer for about 4-8 minutes, until cooked but still firm. Skim off the sc.u.m as it rises to the surface.

Remove the fish and keep hot. Retain about 4 cups of the onion stock to cook the rice in. Pour the remaining stock into another pan and add lemon juice to taste, to make a sauce.

Throw the washed and drained rice into the first portion of boiling stock. Let it boil vigorously for a minute, then reduce the heat, cover the pan, and simmer gently, undisturbed, until the rice is tender, about 15-20 minutes.

Just before serving, reheat the fish in the sauce. Serve the rice heaped in a mound on a large serving dish. Arrange the pieces of fish over or around it, and pour the hot, lemony sauce over the whole dish.

Variations For an elegant presentation, press the fish, then the rice over it, into an oiled mold. Heat through in the oven before turning out carefully. Garnish with -1 cup lightly fried pine nuts and/or split blanched almonds.

Here is an Egyptian version. Color and soften the onions, then fry the fish briefly with the onions so that it is still uncooked inside. Make a stock with the bones, head, and tr.i.m.m.i.n.gs of the fish, simmered with 1 stalk celery, 1 onion, and 1 carrot. Strain through a fine sieve. Cook the rice as above, in 1 times its own volume of stock. Mix the cooked rice with the fish and onions in a baking dish. Garnish with lightly fried pine nuts and moisten with a little of the stock, considerably reduced. Bake in a preheated 300F oven for 15-20 minutes.

Koftet el Samak Fried Fish b.a.l.l.s Makes 40-50 small b.a.l.l.s You can serve these Egyptian fish b.a.l.l.s as mezze or finger foods at a party. Use any white fish, such as cod, haddock, bream, whiting, or hake. You can serve these Egyptian fish b.a.l.l.s as mezze or finger foods at a party. Use any white fish, such as cod, haddock, bream, whiting, or hake.

2 pounds skinned fish fillets 2 eggs 2 teaspoons salt teaspoon pepper 2 teaspoons ground c.u.min 2-4 cloves garlic, crushed cup fine breadcrumbs or matzo meal cup finely chopped flat-leaf parsley or cilantro (optional) Flour Oil for deep-frying Cut the fish fillets into pieces and finely chop them in the food processor for 5 seconds.

Beat the eggs lightly and add salt, pepper, c.u.min, and garlic. Mix with the fish and add the breadcrumbs or matzo meal. Work very well with your hands into a stiff paste. Wet your hands and take lumps of paste and roll them into b.a.l.l.s the size of large marbles. Pour plenty of flour on a plate and roll the fish b.a.l.l.s in it, covering them lightly with flour.

Deep-fry briefly in hot oil until browned all over, turning them over once. Drain on paper towels and serve, preferably hot.

Variations Instead of c.u.min, add 1 teaspoon ground coriander, teaspoon ground ginger, and 1 1 teaspoon cayenne or ground chili pepper. teaspoon cayenne or ground chili pepper.

A Gulf States version has 3 tablespoons ground dried limes (see page 44), 1 teaspoon turmeric, and teaspoon c.u.min as flavoring.

Sardines in the Algerian Manner Serves 6 * This is quite a lot of work, as fishmongers don"t usually bother to scale sardines, but it makes a very tasty mezze. * This is quite a lot of work, as fishmongers don"t usually bother to scale sardines, but it makes a very tasty mezze.

2 pounds fresh sardines 3 teaspoons ground c.u.min 2 or 3 cloves garlic, crushed teaspoon ground chili pepper Salt 2 eggs, beaten Flour or fine dry breadcrumbs Olive oil for deep-frying Wash and scale the sardines and remove heads and tails. Slit them open down one side only, and remove their backbones. Dip the sardines, open side down, in a mixture of ground c.u.min, garlic, ground chili pepper, and salt. Stick the sardines together in pairs, open sides together, trapping the seasonings between them.

Dip the pairs in beaten egg, then in flour or breadcrumbs. Deep-fry in hot oil, being very careful not to let the pairs separate. Drain on paper towels and serve hot.

Variation For a Moroccan version with a mashed-potato stuffing: mash 1 pound boiled potatoes and mix with cup chopped flat-leaf parsley, cup chopped cilantro, and 3 beaten eggs. Add salt and pepper, 1 teaspoon c.u.min or 1 teaspoon cinnamon, 1 teaspoon paprika, and a pinch of chili pepper. Take a lump the size of a small egg. Roll it into a long oblong and press between 2 sardines. Dip in flour and deep-fry quickly in hot oil, then drain on paper towels.

Shrimp and Tomato Pilaf Serves 6-8 * This can be served as a first course or a main dish. It has a deliciously fresh tomato flavor with a touch of cinnamon. * This can be served as a first course or a main dish. It has a deliciously fresh tomato flavor with a touch of cinnamon.

1 pounds tomatoes 1 large onion, chopped 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 4 cloves garlic, chopped chili pepper, finely chopped 2 chicken bouillon cubes 2 cups American long-grain rice Salt and pepper 2 teaspoons sugar 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1 pounds peeled cooked large shrimp 2 lemons, cut into quarters, to serve with Peel the tomatoes and liquefy them in the food processor, then measure their volume. It should add up to a little more than 2 2 cups. cups.

Fry the onion in the oil till soft and lightly colored. Add the garlic and the chili and stir until the aroma rises.

Add the liquid tomatoes and just enough water to make up 4 cups with the tomatoes. Stir in the crumbled bouillon cubes and bring to the boil. Add the rice, salt and pepper, sugar, and cinnamon. Stir well and cook, covered, on low heat for 15-20 minutes. The rice should be tender but still a little moist. Fold in the shrimp gently and heat through with the lid on. Serve hot, accompanied by lemon wedges.

Spicy Shrimp Serves 2 * A Moroccan way with shrimp that is quick to do and really delicious. If you buy the shrimp frozen, let them thaw in the refrigerator before peeling. * A Moroccan way with shrimp that is quick to do and really delicious. If you buy the shrimp frozen, let them thaw in the refrigerator before peeling.

2 cloves garlic, crushed 3 tablespoons sunflower or extra-virgin olive oil 1 teaspoon paprika teaspoon c.u.min teaspoon ground ginger A good pinch of cayenne or ground chili pepper pound large fresh or frozen shrimp, peeled Salt 2-3 tablespoons chopped cilantro or parsley Heat the garlic in the oil until the aroma rises. Stir in the spices and throw in the shrimp. Season with salt, add the cilantro or parsley, and fry quickly, stirring, for about 5 minutes, until the shrimp turn pink.

Mithia Kra.s.sata Mussels in White Wine Serves 4-6 * A Greek way of cooking mussels. * A Greek way of cooking mussels.

4 pounds mussels 3 cloves garlic, crushed 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 cups dry white wine 3 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley Scrub the mussels, pull off the beards, and wash in several changes of cold water. Test to see if they are alive: discard any which are broken or too heavy or too light, or which do not close when they are tapped or dipped in cold water.

In a very large pan, heat the garlic in the oil. As soon as the aroma rises, add the wine. Simmer for 10 minutes, until it is reduced to about 1 cup-it acquires a delicious mellow flavor.

Put in the mussels and, with the lid on, put them on very high heat for 1-2 minutes, until they open. Take off the heat, discard any which remain closed, and serve the mussels in their sh.e.l.ls sprinkled with parsley. Pour over them the wine-and-mussel liquor left in the pan, through a sieve lined with cheesecloth to catch any sand.

Scallops with Tamarind Serves 4 * You can buy tamarind paste (page 46) from Middle Eastern stores. Serve the scallops as an appetizer accompanied with a leaf salad. * You can buy tamarind paste (page 46) from Middle Eastern stores. Serve the scallops as an appetizer accompanied with a leaf salad.

1 tablespoon tamarind paste 3 tablespoons water 4 tablespoons mild extra-virgin olive oil 12 sea scallops Salt In a little pan, heat the tamarind and water, stirring, until the tamarind dissolves, and let it cool. Then beat in the oil.

Wash the scallops and pull away the intestinal thread. Cook them in a greased frying pan for 30-40 seconds on each side, sprinkling with a little salt.

Serve hot with a drizzle of the tamarind dressing on each.

Variation Another dressing for scallops is 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil and 1 teaspoon cinnamon.

Kalamarakia Yemista Stuffed Squid Serves 6 * This Greek dish takes time and effort but is something special to offer at a dinner party. Serve with rice or with mashed potatoes (see page 297). * This Greek dish takes time and effort but is something special to offer at a dinner party. Serve with rice or with mashed potatoes (see page 297).

2 pounds small squid (about 14 baby squid) 4 tablespoons olive oil 3 tablespoons pine nuts cup short-grain rice 3 tablespoons raisins Salt 1 large onion, chopped 2 cloves garlic, chopped 1 pound tomatoes, peeled and chopped 1 cup dry white or red wine 2 teaspoons sugar teaspoon ground chili pepper (optional) 3 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley Clean and prepare the squid as described in box on page 198.

Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a small pan. Add the pine nuts, and stir so that they are lightly colored all over. Stir in the rice and raisins, and add a little salt and 1 cup water. Stir and simmer over low heat for 10 minutes, until the water is absorbed. Fill each squid about two-thirds full only, to allow the rice to expand. Secure the openings with toothpicks.

For the sauce: Fry the onion in the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil until golden. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until it begins to color. Add the tomatoes, wine, sugar, salt, and chili pepper if using. Simmer, uncovered, for 15 minutes.

Lay the squid in a single layer in an oven dish, pour the sauce over them, and place the cl.u.s.ters of tentacles at the top end of each squid. Cover with foil and bake in a preheated 400F oven for 15-30 minutes, depending on the size of the squid.

Serve hot, sprinkled with parsley.

Squid with Garlic and Chilies Serves 4 1 pounds small squid 3 tablespoons olive oil 3 cloves garlic, chopped 2 red chilies, seeded and finely chopped Salt and pepper 3-4 tablespoons chopped cilantro 1 lemon, cut in wedges, to accompany Clean and prepare the squid as described in the box on page 198. Cut the body pouches in rings.

Heat the oil in a large frying pan. Put in the garlic and chilies and the squid. Season with salt and pepper and saute briefly, turning over the pieces, for 2-3 minutes only.

Sprinkle with cilantro and serve hot with lemon wedges.

Octopus Cooked in White Wine Serves 6 * This is served as an appetizer in Greece. The wine gives it a special flavor. * This is served as an appetizer in Greece. The wine gives it a special flavor.