Fasulye Piyazi Haricot Bean Salad Serves 4 * This famous Turkish salad makes a light snack meal. * This famous Turkish salad makes a light snack meal.

2 14-ounce cans of cannelini or white haricot beans 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons white-wine vinegar Salt and pepper 1 mild onion, finely chopped 3 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley 10 black olives 2 firm tomatoes, cut into wedges 2 hard-boiled eggs, cut into wedges Drain the canned beans, dress with oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper, and mix with chopped onion and parsley.

Serve garnished with olives, tomatoes, and hard-boiled eggs.

Salq bi Loubia Spinach with Black-eyed Peas Serves 4 4 ounces dried black-eyed peas or a 14-ounce can, drained Salt 1 pound fresh spinach or frozen leaf spinach, defrosted 1 large onion, chopped 4 tablespoons olive oil Pepper Simmer the black-eyed peas in water for about 20 minutes, or until they are tender, adding salt when they have begun to soften. They do not need soaking and fall apart quite quickly if they are overcooked.

Wash the fresh spinach, removing any thick stems, and drain. Frozen spinach must be completely thawed and have the water squeezed out.

In a large saucepan, fry the onion in the olive oil until soft and transparent. Add the spinach, put the lid on, and cook for a few minutes only, until the spinach crumples to a soft ma.s.s. If using frozen spinach, cook until tender. Add salt and pepper.

Stir the drained beans into the spinach and cook through.

Serve cold.

Salatet Adds Lentil Salad Serves 6 1 cups large green or brown lentils Salt 6-7 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Juice of 1 lemons, or to taste 1 or 2 cloves garlic, crushed (optional) Pepper -1 teaspoon ground coriander or c.u.min (optional) 3 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley Rinse and drain the lentils, and boil them in fresh water for about 20 minutes, or until tender, adding salt towards the end. Then drain.

Mix the rest of ingredients plus a little salt and pour over the lentils while still hot.

Serve cold.

Variations * Fry 3 chopped garlic cloves in 2 tablespoons of the oil with 1 teaspoon ground c.u.min or coriander and stir into the lentils. Omit these from the dressing.

* Cook the lentils until they are very soft, mash to a puree, and dress as above.

Salatet Adds wal Tamatem Lentil and Tomato Salad Serves 6 1 cups large green or brown lentils 1 large onion, chopped 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil or more 3 tomatoes, peeled and cut into pieces Salt and pepper 2 tablespoons wine vinegar 3 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley Rinse and drain the lentils. Fry the onion in oil until lightly colored. Add the tomatoes and cook, stirring, for a minute.

Add the drained lentils, cover with water, and simmer gently for about 25 minutes, or until they are tender, adding water as required. Season with salt and pepper, add vinegar, and cook until the lentils are soft and the liquid is absorbed.

Add the parsley and, if you like, a dribble of olive oil.

Serve cold.

Salatet Hummus Chickpea Salad Serves 6 * This is an instant salad to make with canned chickpeas, but they must be good-quality. * This is an instant salad to make with canned chickpeas, but they must be good-quality.

A 2-pound can chickpeas 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Juice of 1-2 lemons Salt and pepper 1 mild onion, finely chopped cup chopped flat-leaf parsley Drain the chickpeas and mix with the rest of the ingredients.

Variation Omit the onion and instead pa.s.s around a little saucer with about 8 crushed garlic cloves for people to help themselves if they want to.

ARAB SAYING:.

"Rather than eat rice with eggplants, buy something to cover your hind part." (Until very recently, rice was considered an expensive dish and only for the rich. A poor man buying rice and eggplants too was therefore thought to be unnecessarily extravagant.) Ful Ahdar bel Roz wal Laban Zabadi Fresh Green Fava Beans with Rice and Yogurt Serves 6 * You need young fava beans, not tough old ones. Some supermarkets sell them sh.e.l.led in the season. Good-quality frozen ones are also fine to use. An Iranian grocer near where I live sells frozen skinned ones from Iran which are exceptional. The dish can be served hot or cold. The yogurt can be poured over the rice or served in a separate bowl. * You need young fava beans, not tough old ones. Some supermarkets sell them sh.e.l.led in the season. Good-quality frozen ones are also fine to use. An Iranian grocer near where I live sells frozen skinned ones from Iran which are exceptional. The dish can be served hot or cold. The yogurt can be poured over the rice or served in a separate bowl.

1 cups American long-grain rice cups American long-grain rice Salt 4-5 tablespoons mild extra-virgin olive oil Bunch of dill or mint, finely chopped White pepper 14 ounces sh.e.l.led fava beans, fresh or frozen 2 cups plain whole-milk yogurt 1 clove garlic, crushed (optional) Pour the rice into boiling salted water. Boil hard for about 14 minutes, until it is almost but not entirely tender. Drain and put back into the pan. Stir in 3 tablespoons of the oil, the herbs, and salt and pepper to taste. Put the lid on and leave the pan on very low heat for the rice to steam for about 15 minutes, or until tender.

Boil the fava beans in salted water for a few minutes, until tender, then drain. Stir gently into the rice with the remaining oil.

Serve hot or cold with the yogurt, beaten with crushed garlic if you like and a little salt, poured over.

Patlicanli Pilavi Pilafwith Tomatoes and Eggplants Serves 6 * This is one of a few Turkish pilafs which are cooked in olive oil and eaten cold. * This is one of a few Turkish pilafs which are cooked in olive oil and eaten cold.

1 large onion, chopped 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 pound tomatoes, peeled and chopped 1 teaspoon sugar teaspoon allspice Pinch of chili flakes or ground chili pepper (optional) Salt cups long-grain rice 2 eggplants, weighing about 1 pound total, cut into 1-inch cubes Olive oil or vegetable oil to fry the eggplants 3 tablespoons chopped dill 3 tablespoons chopped mint In a large pan, fry the onion in 2 tablespoons of the olive oil till soft. Add the tomatoes, sugar, allspice, and chili, and cook over low heat for 10 minutes.

Add 1 h h cups water, stir in some salt, and bring to the boil. Add the rice, stir, and cook, covered, over low heat for about 20 minutes, until the rice is tender and the liquid absorbed, adding a little water if it becomes too dry and begins to stick. (The tomatoes provide some of the liquid.) cups water, stir in some salt, and bring to the boil. Add the rice, stir, and cook, covered, over low heat for about 20 minutes, until the rice is tender and the liquid absorbed, adding a little water if it becomes too dry and begins to stick. (The tomatoes provide some of the liquid.) In the meantime, deep-fry the eggplants in oil to cover, turning them over once, until lightly browned. Then drain on paper towels.

When the rice is done, gently fold in the dill and mint, the remaining raw oil, and the eggplants. Cover and cook a few minutes more.

Serve cold.

Tabbouleh bel Roz Rice and Parsley Salad Serves 6I like to make this Lebanese salad with basmati rice, because the grains stay very separate. like to make this Lebanese salad with basmati rice, because the grains stay very separate.

cup basmati rice Salt Juice of 2-3 lemons cup extra-virgin olive oil Pepper 2 cups chopped flat-leaf parsley cup chopped mint 10 scallions, chopped 5 firm ripe tomatoes, cut into small dice 2 hearts of romaine or Bibb lettuce to garnish Pour boiling water over the rice, leave for a few minutes, then rinse and drain. Boil in salted water for about 14 minutes, then drain and pour back into the pan. Put the lid on and leave over low heat (it will steam) for 15 minutes, or until tender.

While still hot, dress with the lemon juice and olive oil and a little salt and pepper.

Just before serving, mix with the parsley, mint, and scallions. Serve topped with the tomatoes and garnished with a ring of lettuce leaves stuck around the edge of the salad.

Midye Pilavi Mussel Pilaf Serves 4 * In Turkey, where this dish comes from, mussels are large and fat. * In Turkey, where this dish comes from, mussels are large and fat.

About 20 large mussels or 30 small ones 2 medium onions, chopped 4-5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons pine nuts cup long-grain rice 2 medium tomatoes, peeled and chopped I teaspoons sugar 1 tablespoon raisins Salt and pepper 1 teaspoon allspice cup chopped dill Scrub the mussels, pull off their beards (the hairy bits that hang out of the sh.e.l.l), and wash them well. Discard any which are broken and those which feel very heavy or very light or which do not close when they are tapped or dipped in cold water. Put them in a pan with inch of water. Put the lid on and bring to the boil. The sh.e.l.ls will open in 2-3 minutes. Take them off the heat and discard any which remain closed. Keep 8-10 mussels aside in their sh.e.l.ls. Remove the others from their sh.e.l.ls and discard the sh.e.l.ls. Strain the liquid in the pan and keep aside.

Fry the onions in 2 tablespoons of the oil till soft and golden. Add the pine nuts, and when they begin to color, add the rice and stir for a minute or so. Add the tomatoes and the sugar and simmer 5 minutes.

Add the raisins and cup of the mussel water (add more water if necessary to make up the amount). Season with salt, pepper, and allspice and stir gently. Cook, covered, over low heat for about 15-20 minutes, until the liquid is absorbed and the rice is tender.

Stir in the remaining raw oil and the dill. Very gently fold in the sh.e.l.led mussels and serve cold, arranging the mussels in their open sh.e.l.ls on top.

Slat.i.t Hout Fish Salad Serves 4 * For this North African salad, use a firm white fish such as cod, haddock, or monkfish. * For this North African salad, use a firm white fish such as cod, haddock, or monkfish.

1 pound new potatoes Salt 1 pound fish steaks or fillets 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Juice of 1 lemon Pepper Peel of -1 preserved lemon (page 459), rinsed and cut into small pieces (optional) 2 tablespoons capers (optional) 3 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley or cilantro Boil the potatoes in salted water until tender. Then drain, peel, and cut into 1-inch pieces.

Poach the fish in boiling salted water for 5-8 minutes, until it just begins to flake when you cut into it with a pointed knife. Drain, let it cool, and flake it into largish pieces.

Beat the oil and lemon juice with a little salt and pepper and pour over the fish and potatoes in a serving bowl. Add the rest of the ingredients and mix gently.

Variations * Add 2 ounces salted anchovies (chopped) and 6 green or black olives or 4 or 5 thinly sliced pickled gherkins.

* In the dressing mix 1 teaspoon ground c.u.min or teaspoon harissa (page 464).

Koft.i.t Ferakh Fried Minced Chicken b.a.l.l.s Serves 4-6 * Rolled into marble-sized b.a.l.l.s, they make a nice appetizer. * Rolled into marble-sized b.a.l.l.s, they make a nice appetizer.

2 cooked chicken quarters, preferably b.r.e.a.s.t.s 2 large slices white bread Milk 1 large egg Pinch of turmeric (optional) Salt and pepper Flour Vegetable oil for deep-frying Juice of lemon (optional) Skin and bone the chicken, and remove any sinews and hard membranes.

Remove the crusts from the bread. Soak the slices in a little milk and squeeze dry.

Put the chicken, bread, egg, and seasonings through the food processor and blend to a paste. Knead well and shape into marble-sized b.a.l.l.s.

Roll them in flour and fry in hot oil about h h inch deep, turning them over once, until a dark-golden color. inch deep, turning them over once, until a dark-golden color.

Serve the b.a.l.l.s hot or cold, with a few drops of lemon juice squeezed over them if you like.

cerkez Tavugu Circa.s.sian Chicken Serves 8 * In Turkey and Egypt during the period of the Ottoman Empire, the women in the harems, the wives and concubines of the Sultans and aristocracy, were the widows and daughters captured at war. The Circa.s.sians among them were known for their beauty and their culinary skills. This cla.s.sic is part of their legacy. The recipe was given by Luli Fevsi and comes from the kitchens of the old Ottoman aristocracy in Egypt. It is a cold dish which may be served as an hors d"oeuvre or as part of a buffet table. * In Turkey and Egypt during the period of the Ottoman Empire, the women in the harems, the wives and concubines of the Sultans and aristocracy, were the widows and daughters captured at war. The Circa.s.sians among them were known for their beauty and their culinary skills. This cla.s.sic is part of their legacy. The recipe was given by Luli Fevsi and comes from the kitchens of the old Ottoman aristocracy in Egypt. It is a cold dish which may be served as an hors d"oeuvre or as part of a buffet table.

4 chicken breast halves 4 chicken wings 1 onion stuck with 3 cloves A few celery stalks A sprig of tarragon or thyme Salt and white pepper 2 thin slices dry white bread, crusts removed 2 cups walnut halves, coa.r.s.ely minced or ground 1 or 2 cloves garlic, crushed (optional) 2 teaspoons paprika 2 teaspoons walnut or other oil Put the b.r.e.a.s.t.s and the wings (which are to enrich the stock) in a saucepan. Cover with water (about 2 h h cups), bring to the boil, and remove the sc.u.m. Add the onion and cloves, celery, and herbs and season to taste with salt and pepper. Simmer for about 15 minutes, until the b.r.e.a.s.t.s are tender. cups), bring to the boil, and remove the sc.u.m. Add the onion and cloves, celery, and herbs and season to taste with salt and pepper. Simmer for about 15 minutes, until the b.r.e.a.s.t.s are tender.

Prepare the sauce. Soak the bread in a little of the stock and turn it to a paste in a blender or food processor. Mix with the walnuts in a small saucepan and add enough stock to get the consistency of porridge. Cook, stirring, a few minutes, until the sauce thickens. Add garlic, if you like, and a teaspoon of paprika, and stir well.

Skin the chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s and shred into small pieces. Mix well with two-thirds of the sauce and spread on a serving dish. Cover with the rest of the sauce.

To garnish, mix the remaining paprika with the oil and dribble over the top. In Turkey, people use the oil squeezed out of walnuts, but I have not been successful with this.

Serve cold.

Hamud Shami Lemony Chicken Jelly Serves 6 * Although * Although shami shami means "Syrian," this was a specialty of the Jews of Egypt. It has a strong taste of lemon and garlic. It should be made with a good, well-flavored chicken stock (see page 143). After the recipe was given to me thirty-five years ago, I never heard of it again until recently, when I was giving a lecture about Jewish food and a man complained bitterly that I had left it out of my Jewish book. So I feel obliged to leave it in here. means "Syrian," this was a specialty of the Jews of Egypt. It has a strong taste of lemon and garlic. It should be made with a good, well-flavored chicken stock (see page 143). After the recipe was given to me thirty-five years ago, I never heard of it again until recently, when I was giving a lecture about Jewish food and a man complained bitterly that I had left it out of my Jewish book. So I feel obliged to leave it in here.

2 cups good chicken stock cups good chicken stock 1 tablespoon oil 2 large cloves garlic, crushed cup rice powder (see Note) Juice of 1 lemon, or a little more teaspoon turmeric Bring the stock to the boil. In another pan, heat the garlic in the oil until the aroma rises, then pour in a ladle of the stock.

Dissolve the rice powder in a little cold water. Beat in the garlic-flavored stock, and pour back into the pan. With the pan over gentle heat, pour the rest of the stock in gradually, stirring all the time, and bring to the boil. Add the lemon juice and turmeric and continue to cook, stirring, until the mixture becomes very thick. Pour into a serving dish.

Let it cool, and chill if you wish. The mixture will become a pale-yellow jelly. It looks beautifully translucent in a transparent bowl.

This unusual salad is delicious served with cold chicken and plain hot rice. It is often served as an appetizer, with bread or grape leaves to dip into it.

Note: Use a food processor or spice grinder to pulverize raw rice into powder. Use a food processor or spice grinder to pulverize raw rice into powder.

Salatet Mokh Brain Salad Serves 6-8 * Brains are considered a great delicacy in the Middle East. In some parts, it is believed that they feed one"s own brain and render one more intelligent. In other places, it is thought that eating brains reduces one"s intelligence to that of the animal, and people who hold such beliefs cannot be persuaded to touch them. I used to have to eat them in hiding from my children, who screamed when they saw me. * Brains are considered a great delicacy in the Middle East. In some parts, it is believed that they feed one"s own brain and render one more intelligent. In other places, it is thought that eating brains reduces one"s intelligence to that of the animal, and people who hold such beliefs cannot be persuaded to touch them. I used to have to eat them in hiding from my children, who screamed when they saw me.

2 sets sets calf"s brains or 4 sets lamb"s brains calf"s brains or 4 sets lamb"s brains Salt Wine vinegar large mild onion or 4-6 scallions, finely chopped Juice of -1 lemon, or more 4-6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil White pepper 2-3 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley to garnish Brains should be cooked when they are very fresh, preferably on the day they are bought. Soak them for 1 hour in cold water with salt and 1 tablespoon vinegar. Carefully remove the thin outer membranes, and wash under cold running water. Simmer gently for 10 minutes in salted water to which you have added a teaspoon of vinegar.

In the meantime, marinate the chopped onion in lemon juice. Drain the brains thoroughly and slice them. They should be firm enough to keep their shape. Arrange the slices in a single layer in a shallow serving dish.

Stir the olive oil into the onion and lemon, season to taste with salt and pepper, and sprinkle over the brains. Garnish with parsley.

Serve as an appetizer or a salad.

Kebdah Makly Fried Liver Pieces Serves 6 * Lamb"s liver is traditionally used, but calf"s liver is tastier and more tender. It is also more expensive. * Lamb"s liver is traditionally used, but calf"s liver is tastier and more tender. It is also more expensive.

6 slices calf"s or lamb"s liver slices calf"s or lamb"s liver 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil plus more for frying 2 tablespoons wine vinegar Salt and pepper Oil Juice of lemon (optional) 2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley (optional garnish) 1 mild onion, very thinly sliced (optional garnish) Cut the liver into 1-inch pieces, and remove any sinews or membranes. Mix the olive oil and vinegar with salt and pepper and marinate the liver for 1 hour in this mixture.

Pour the liver and its marinade into a skillet and cook over high heat for 2 or 3 minutes, turning the pieces over, until brown on the outside but still pink and juicy inside. (Liver dries very quickly and is not good overcooked.) Serve hot or cold, sprinkled with lemon juice, and garnished with chopped parsley and onion slices if you like.

Variations A Moroccan way is to add a good sprinkling of paprika, and ground c.u.min and coriander to the frying oil.

For a Turkish "Albanian-style" liver, cut the liver in small cubes, salt them, and dredge in flour. Deep-fry in about inch very hot sunflower or vegetable oil for 1-2 minutes until crisp and brown. Lift out with a slotted spoon and serve sprinkled with ground chili pepper or flakes, or with paprika. Accompany with sliced onions rubbed with salt and sprinkled with 2 teaspoons sumac.

Mokh Makly Fried Breaded Brains Serves 6-8 2 sets calf"s brains or 4 sets lamb"s brains sets calf"s brains or 4 sets lamb"s brains 4 teaspoons wine vinegar Salt Flour 2 egg yolks, beaten White or black pepper Fine dry breadcrumbs or matzo meal Sunflower or vegetable oil for deep-frying 3 tablespoons finely chopped parsley to garnish Juice of -1 lemon (optional) Soak the brains for 1 hour in water acidulated with 1 tablespoon of the vinegar. Remove the thin membranes in which they are encased and wash the brains under cold running water. Drop the brains into boiling salted water acidulated with the remaining teaspoon of vinegar, and simmer for about 3 minutes. Remove, and drain thoroughly.

When cooled, cut into smallish (about I-inch) pieces. Gently roll the pieces first in flour, then in beaten egg yolk seasoned with a little salt and pepper, and lastly in fine breadcrumbs or matzo meal. Fry in hot oil about inch deep for a minute or two, until golden brown, turning them over once. Drain on paper towels.

Serve hot or cold, garnished with parsley and, if you like, sprinkled with lemon juice.

Brains Moroccan Style Serves 8 2 sets calf"s brains or 4 sets lamb"s brains Salt sets calf"s brains or 4 sets lamb"s brains Salt 4 teaspoons wine vinegar 3 cloves garlic, chopped 3 tablespoons oil 1 pound tomatoes, peeled and chopped, or a 14-ounce can tomatoes, chopped 2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro 1 teaspoon paprika Pinch of ground chili pepper, to taste 1 teaspoon ground c.u.min Juice of lemon Peel of preserved lemon (page 459), chopped up Soak the brains for 1 hour in water acidulated with 1 tablespoon of the vinegar. Remove the thin membranes in which they are encased and wash the brains under cold running water. Drop the brains into boiling salted water acidulated with the remaining teaspoon of vinegar, and simmer for about 3 minutes. Remove, and drain thoroughly, then cut each in 2 or 4 pieces.

Fry the garlic in the oil in a large pan until it just begins to color. Add the peeled tomatoes and the rest of the ingredients (except the brains) and simmer for a few minutes. Then drop in the brains and cook gently a further 15 minutes. As good cold as it is hot.

Salatet Lissan Tongue Salad Serves 6 1 veal tongue 1 large onion, cut in 4 1 large carrot, cut into pieces 3 celery stalks with leaves 1 bay leaf A few parsley stalks Salt and pepper FOR THE DRESSING.

3-4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Juice of 1 lemon 1 or 2 cloves garlic, crushed A few sprigs of flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped Salt and pepper Wash the tongue and blanch for a few minutes in boiling water. Throw out the sc.u.m with the water.

Put the tongue back in the saucepan with the rest of the ingredients except those for the dressing. Cover with fresh water and bring to the boil, then simmer until it is very tender. It will need 2-3 hours.

Drain and allow it to cool just enough to handle, then peel off the skin. If you let it get cold it will be difficult to skin. Remove the roots and return the tongue to the pot to cool in the stock.

Just before serving, cut into slices or cubes. Mix the dressing ingredients and pour over the tongue.

Variation For a Moroccan flavor, add to the dressing 1 1 teaspoon ground chili pepper, teaspoon ground chili pepper, h h teaspoon c.u.min, and teaspoon c.u.min, and h h teaspoon coriander. teaspoon coriander.

Yogurt In every Middle Eastern household, the making of yogurt is a regular activity-at least it used to be. With a little experience one learns the rhythm of preparation and the exact warmth required to turn milk into yogurt. The actual preparation is extremely easy, but the right conditions are necessary for success. If these are fulfilled, the "magic" cannot fail.

Yogurt is an essential part of the Middle Eastern diet. In al-Baghdadi"s medieval manual it was referred to as "Persian milk." In Iran today it is known as mast mast, in Turkey as yogurt yogurt. Syrians and Lebanese call it laban laban, Egyptians laban zabadi laban zabadi, while Armenians refer to it as madzoon madzoon. In parts of the Middle East, as in the Balkans, yogurt is believed by some people to have medicinal and therapeutic qualities. Longevity and a strong const.i.tution are attributed to a daily consumption.

More recently the Western world discovered the healthful qualities of yogurt, but it is too often restricted to a minor role as a dessert, usually sweetened or synthetically flavored. Yogurt has yet to be allowed the versa tility it enjoys in the Middle East, where it is, in turn, a hot or cold soup, a salad, a marinade for meat, or the basic liquid element in a meat-and-vegetable dish. The West has still to discover the vast number of dishes which are refreshed, soothed, and glorified when accompanied by yogurt, and the splendid drink called ayran ayran or or abdug abdug (page 478), which is a mixture of yogurt and water. (page 478), which is a mixture of yogurt and water.

The best yogurt I have ever eaten was in Turkey. It was made with water buffalo"s milk and was thick and deliciously rich and creamy. A good second is the thick sheep"s-milk yogurt product of Greece, which has been drained of its whey.

To Make Yogurt If yogurt is to be adopted as an important element in cookery, it is worth learning to make it at home. All sorts of equipment have been recommended as being required: cake pans lined with padding, feather cushions, thermometers, different-sized bottles, jars, cork tops, to name but a few. Commercial firms sell sets of equipment, but you can do perfectly well without them. All that is needed is a large earthenware or gla.s.s bowl, a plate to cover it entirely or plastic wrap, and a small woolen blanket-I use two shawls.

The proportions are 1 heaping tablespoon of starter or activator (culture of the bacteria bulgaris) bulgaris) or fresh, live yogurt (I use ordinary, commercial or fresh, live yogurt (I use ordinary, commercial plain plain whole-milk yogurt) to each quart of whole milk. If you increase the quant.i.ty of milk, increase that of the starter accordingly, but do not use too much of the starter, or the new batch of yogurt will be excessively sour. whole-milk yogurt) to each quart of whole milk. If you increase the quant.i.ty of milk, increase that of the starter accordingly, but do not use too much of the starter, or the new batch of yogurt will be excessively sour.

Bring the milk to the boil in a large pan. When the froth rises, lower the heat and let the milk barely simmer for about 2 minutes. Turn off the heat, and allow the milk to cool to the point where you can barely dip your finger in and leave it there while you count to ten. Ten is the traditional count, but the milk must still be hot enough to sting. If you have a thermometer, the temperature should be 106-109F. If the milk is much cooler or hotter than this, the yogurt is likely to fail.