The Present State of Virginia

Chapter 6

No People can entertain their Friends with better Cheer and Welcome; and Strangers and Travellers are here treated in the most free, plentiful, and hospitable Manner; so that a few Inns or Ordinaries on the Road are sufficient.

As to the Weather, the Spring and Fall are not unlike those Seasons in _England_, only the Air is never long foggy, nor very cloudy; but clear, sometimes of a bluish Colour, occasioned by the thin Smoak, dispersed in the Air, from the Flames of the Woods and Leaves, which are fired in Hunting, to drive the Beasts from their lurking Places; or in the Spring to burn the old Leaves and Gra.s.s, that there may be the better Pasture the next Summer.

The Months of _December_, _January_ and _February_ are generally much colder, and _June_, _July_ and _August_ are much hotter than in _England_; tho" sometimes "tis on a sudden very cool in Summer, and pretty warm in Winter, the Weather being governed by the Wind; which with sudden Storms from the _North-West_, and sometimes from the _West_ and _South-West_ bring violent Gusts or Tempests, with Thunder, Lightning, and Rain very terrible, but soon over.

The _North West_ Winds are exquisitely sharp and cold, proceeding from Clouds arising from the vast Lakes and prodigious snowy Mountains that lie to that Quarter; but the Southerly Winds and others are very warm.

The Days and Nights are there always much nearer the Equality of twelve Hours, than in the Lat.i.tude of _England_.

At the sudden Changes of the Weather, from Heat to Cold, People are apt to take Cold, often neglecting to shift their Cloaths with the Weather; which with Abundance of Damps and Mists from the Water, and by eating too plentifully of some delicious Fruits, makes the People subject to Feavers and Agues, which is the Country Distemper, a severe Fit of which (called a _Seasoning_) most expect, some time after their Arrival in that Climate; but the Goodness of G.o.d has furnished us with a perfect _Catholicon_ for that Sickness, _viz._ the _Bark_; which being taken and repeated in a right Manner, seldom fails of a Cure, unless the morbifick Matter comes to a Head again from fresh Causes, and so returns with Mastery; upon which Recourse must be had to the same specifick Remedy; besides which there are several Ways of Cure, but none so universal and sure as that.

Some for Want of timely Care, through Ignorance or Obstinacy, will permit the Distemper to lurk about them so long, till at last it has reduced them to an irrecoverable, lingering, ill Habit of Body; especially if they live meanly, drinking too much Water, and eating too much salt Meat; and this _Cachexy_ generally ends their Lives with a Dropsy, Consumption, the Jaundice, or some such Illness.

Besides this, some are troubled with the dry Gripes, proceeding from Colds (I suppose) which take away for a long Time the Use of the Limbs of some, especially hard Drinkers of Rum; some that have lain out in mighty cold Weather have been Frost-bitten, and lost their Fingers or Toes.

There is no Danger of wild Beasts in traveling; for the Wolves and Bears, which are up the Country, never attack any, unless they be first a.s.saulted and hurt; and the Wolves of late are much destroyed by Virtue of a Law, which allows good Rewards for their Heads with the Ears on, to prevent Imposition and cheating the Publick; for the Ears are crop"d when a Head is produced.

The Bears are also much destroyed by the Out-Planters, _&c._ for the Sake of their Flesh and Skins.

As for Rattle-Snakes, _&c._ they make off from you, unless you by Carelesness chance to tread on them; and then their Bite is found now not to be mortal, if Remedies can be applied in Time.

The worst Inconveniency in travelling a-cross the Country, is the Circuit that must be taken to head Creeks, _&c._ for the main Roads wind along the rising Ground between the Rivers, tho" now they much shorten their Pa.s.sage by mending the Swamps and building of Bridges in several Places; and there are established Ferries at convenient Places, over the great Rivers; but in them is often much Danger from sudden Storms, bad Boats, or unskilful or wilful Ferrymen; especially if one pa.s.ses in a Boat with Horses, of which I have great Reason to be most sensible by the Loss of a dear _Brother_ at _Chickoh.o.m.ony Ferry_, in _Feb._ 1723/4.

As for their Drink, good Springs of excellent Water abound every where almost, which is very cooling and pleasant in Summer, and the general Drink of abundance: not so much out of Necessity, as Choice.

Some Planters, _&c._ make good small Drink with Cakes of _Parsimmons_ a kind of Plumbs, which grow there in great Plenty; but the common small Beer is made of _Molossus_, which makes extraordinary brisk good tasted Liquor at a cheap Rate, with little Trouble in brewing; so that they have it fresh and fresh, as they want it in Winter and Summer.

And as they brew, so do they bake daily, Bread or Cakes, eating too much hot and new Bread, which cannot be wholsom, tho" it be pleasanter than what has been baked a Day or two.

Some raise Barley and make Malt there, and others have Malt from _England_, with which those that understand it, brew as good Beer as in _England_, at proper Seasons of the Year; but the common strong Malt-Drink mostly used, is _Bristol_ Beer; of which is consumed vast Quant.i.ties there yearly; which being well brew"d and improv"d by crossing the Sea, drinks exceedingly fine and smooth; but Malt Liquor is not so much regarded as Wine, Rack, Brandy, and Rum, Punch, with Drams of Rum or Brandy for the common Sort, when they drink in a Hurry.

The common Wine comes from _Madera_ or _Phial_, which moderately drank is fittest to cheer the fainting Spirits in the Heat of Summer, and to warm the chilled Blood in the bitter Colds of Winter, and seems most peculiarly adapted for this Climate: Besides this, are plentifully drank with the better Sort, of late Years, all Kinds of _French_, and other _European_ Wine, especially Claret and Port.

Here is likewise used a great deal of Chocolate, Tea and Coffee, which, with several Sorts of Apparel, they have as cheap, or cheaper than in _England_, because of the Debenture of such Goods upon their Exportation thither: Besides, they are allowed to have Wines directly from _Madera_, and other Commodities are brought from the _West-Indies_, and the Continent, which cannot be brought to _England_ without spoiling.

As for grinding Corn, _&c._ they have good Mills upon the Runs and Creeks: besides Hand-Mills, Wind-Mills, and the _Indian_ Invention of pounding Hommony in Mortars burnt in the Stump of a Tree, with a Log for a Pestle hanging at the End of a Pole, fix"d like the Pole of a Lave.

Though they are permitted to trade to no Parts but _Great Britain_, except these Places: yet have they in many Respects better and cheaper Commodities than we in _England_, especially of late Years; for the Country may be said to be altered and improved in Wealth and polite Living within these few Years, since the Beginning of _Col. Spotswood_"s Government, more than in all the Scores of Years before that, from its first Discovery. The Country is yearly supplied with vast Quant.i.ties of Goods from _Great Britain_, chiefly from _London_, _Bristol_, _Liverpool_, _Whitehaven_, and from _Scotland_.

The Ships that transport these Things often call at _Ireland_ to victual, and bring over frequently white Servants, which are of three Kinds. 1. Such as come upon certain Wages by Agreement for a certain Time. 2. Such as come bound by Indenture, commonly call"d _Kids_, who are usually to serve four or five Years; and 3. those Convicts or Felons that are transported, whose Room they had much rather have than their Company; for abundance of them do great Mischiefs, commit Robbery and Murder, and spoil Servants, that were before very good: But they frequently there meet with the End they deserved at Home, though indeed some of them prove indifferent good. Their being sent thither to work as Slaves for Punishment, is but a mere Notion, for few of them ever lived so well and so easy before, especially if they are good for any thing.

These are to serve seven, and sometimes fourteen Years, and they and Servants by Indentures have an Allowance of Corn and Cloaths, when they are out of their Time, that they may be therewith supported, till they can be provided with Services, or otherwise settled. With these three Sorts of Servants are they supplied from _England_, _Wales_, _Scotland_, and _Ireland_, among which they that have a Mind to it, may serve their Time with Ease and Satisfaction to themselves and their Masters, especially if they fall into good Hands.

Except the last Sort, for the most Part who are loose Villains, made tame by _Wild_, and then enslaved by his _Forward Namesake_: To prevent too great a Stock of which Servants and Negroes many Attempts and Laws have been in vain made.

These if they forsake their Roguery together with the other Kids of the later _Jonathan_, when they are free, may work Day-Labour, or else rent a small Plantation for a Trifle almost; or else turn Overseers, if they are expert, industrious, and careful, or follow their Trade, if they have been brought up to any; especially Smiths, Carpenters, Taylors, Sawyers, Coopers, Bricklayers, _&c._ The Plenty of the Country, and the good Wages given to Work-Folks occasion very few Poor, who are supported by the Parish, being such as are lame, sick, or decrepit through Age, Distempers, Accidents, or some Infirmities; for where there is a numerous Family of poor Children the Vestry takes Care to bind them out Apprentices, till they are able to maintain themselves by their own Labour; by which Means they are never tormented with Vagrant, and Vagabond Beggars, there being a Reward for taking up Run-aways, that are at a small Distance from their Home; if they are not known, or are without a Pa.s.s from their Master, and can give no good Account of themselves, especially Negroes.

In all convenient Places are kept Stores or Ware-Houses of all Sorts of Goods, managed by Store-Keepers or Factors, either for themselves or others in the Country, or in _Great Britain_.

This Trade is carried on in the fairest and genteelest Way of Merchandize, by a great Number of Gentlemen of Worth and Fortune; who with the Commanders of their Ships, and several _Virginians_ (who come over through Business or Curiosity, or often to take Possession of Estates, which every Year fall here to some or other of them) make as considerable and handsom a Figure, and drive as great and advantageous a Trade for the Advancement of the Publick Good, as most Merchants upon the _Royal-Exchange_.

At the Stores in _Virginia_, the Planters, _&c._ may be supplied with what _English_ Commodities they want.

The Merchants, Factors, or Store-Keepers in _Virginia_ buy up the Tobacco of the Planters, either for Goods or current _Spanish_ Money, or with _Sterling_ Bills payable in _Great Britain_.

The Tobacco is rolled, drawn by Horses, or carted to convenient Rolling Houses, whence it is conveyed on Board the Ships in Flats or Sloops, _&c._

Some Years ago there was made an Act to oblige all Tobacco to be sent to convenient Ware-Houses, to the Custody and Management of proper Officers, who were by Oath to refuse all bad Tobacco, and gave printed Bills as Receipts for each Parcel or Hogshead; which Quant.i.ty was to be delivered according to Order upon Return of those Bills; and for their Trouble and Care in viewing, weighing, and stamping, the Officers were allowed 5 _s. per_ Hogshead.

The Intent of this Law was to improve the Commodity, prevent Frauds in publick Payments; and for Ease of the common Planters, and Expedition and Conveniency of Shipping.

But though the first Design was for publick Tobacco only, yet the private Crops of Gentlemen being included in the Law, was esteemed a great Grievance; and occasioned Complaints, which destroyed a Law, that with small Amendments might have proved most advantageous.

The Abrogation of this Law reduced the Sailors to their old Slavery of rolling the Tobacco in some Places; where they draw it for some Miles, as Gardeners draw a Roller, which makes them frequently curse the Country, and thro" Prejudice give it a very vile Character.

The Tobacco purchased by the Factors or Store-Keepers, is sent Home to their Employers, or consign"d to their correspondent Merchants in _Great Britain_.

But most Gentlemen, and such as are beforehand in the World, lodge Money in their Merchant"s Hands here, to whom they send their Crop of Tobacco, or the greatest Part of it.

This Money is employed according to the Planter"s Orders; chiefly in sending over yearly such Goods, Apparel, Liquors, _&c._ as they write for, for the Use of themselves, their Families, Slaves and Plantations; by which Means they have every Thing at the best Hand, and the best of its Kind.

Besides _English_ Goods, several Merchants in _Virginia_ import from the _West-Indies_ great Quant.i.ties of Rum, Sugar, Molossus, _&c._ and Salt very cheap from the _Salt Islands_; which Things they purchase with Money, or generally with Pork, Beef, Wheat, _Indian-Corn_, and the like.

In some of the poorer Parts of the Country abounding in Pine, do they gather up the _Light-wood_, or Knots of the old Trees, which will not decay, which being piled up (as a Pit of Wood to be burnt to Charcoal) and encompa.s.sed with a Trench, and covered with Earth, is set on Fire; whereby the Tar is melted out, and running into a hole is taken up, and filled into Barrels; and being boiled to a greater Consistency becomes Pitch.

Of Pitch and Tar they send Home great Quant.i.ties, though not near so much at _North Carolina_, which formerly was the _South_ Part of _Virginia_; but has long since been given away to Proprietors, tho" the Bounds between the Colony of _Virginia_, and the Government of _North Carolina_ are disputed; so that there is a very long _List_ of Land fifteen Miles broad between both Colonies (called the _disputed Bounds_) in due Subjection to neither; which is an _Asylum_ for the Runagates of both Countries.

The greatest Part of _Virginia_ is uneven: and near the Water they are free from great Stones, Rocks, and high Hills; but far in the Country they have vast Rocks, Stones, and Mountains; and though in the Salts there is no Stone for Lime nor Building; (but with _Oyster-Sh.e.l.ls_ they make good Lime and enough) yet up the Freshes, and above the Falls of the Rivers are discovered free and common Stone of several Sorts, among which may be expected Lime-Stone.

Here are also vast Quant.i.ties of _Iron Oar_, and various Kinds of _Minerals_, whose Nature and Vertues are as yet undiscovered.

_Moses"s_ Words of Exhortation to the _Israelites_ for Obedience to G.o.d"s Laws, _Deut._ viii. 6, 7, 8, 9, may be applied to the _Virginians_; and particularly when he saith that G.o.d had brought them into a Land whose Stones are Iron; and for what we know the following Words may also be applied to them, when he saith out of the Hills of that Land might be digged _Bra.s.s_, for which there is no small Prospect and Expectation; and in all Probability there may be found the n.o.bler Metals of _Gold_ and _Silver_, if we did but search for them in the Bowels of the Earth, if we would but be at the Expence and Trouble to seek for them.

Why may not our Mountains in _America_, for what we know, be as rich as those of _Mexico_ and _Peru_ in the same Country? Since the little Hills so plentifully abound with the belt of Iron; for the digging, melting, working, and Exportation whereof Providence has furnish"d us with all wonderful Conveniences; if we would add but a little Expence, Art, and Industry.

This Iron has been proved to be good, and "tis thought, will come at as cheap a Rate as any imported from other Places; so that "tis to be hoped _Col. Spotswood"s Works_ will in a small Time prove very advantageous to _Great Britain_, which undoubtedly will be carried to great Perfection and universal Benefit, by his skilful Management and indefatigable Application to such n.o.ble Undertakings and glorious Projects.

CHAP. VI.

_Of_ Germanna, _the_ Palatines, _Wine_, _Hemp_, _Flax_, _Silk_, _Sumack_, _Trees_, _Fruits_, _Coals_, _the Tracts of Land_, _Health_, _Militia_, _the_ Mannacan Town, _t.i.tles_, _Levies_, _Burgesses_, _Laws_, _and general a.s.sembly_.

Beyond _Col. Spotswood_"s Furnace above the Falls of _Rappahannock_ River within View of the vast _Mountains_, he has founded a Town called _Germanna_, from some _Germans_ sent over thither by _Queen Anne_, who are now removed up farther: Here he has Servants and Workmen of most handy-craft Trades; and he is building a Church, Court-House and Dwelling-House for himself; and with his Servants and Negroes he has cleared Plantations about it, proposing great Encouragement for People to come and settle in that uninhabited Part of the World, lately divided into a County.

Beyond this are seated the Colony of _Germans_ or _Palatines_, with Allowance of good Quant.i.ties of rich Land, at easy or no Rates, who thrive very well, and live happily, and entertain generously.