SERVES 4 TO 6.

TIME: 80 MINUTES, LOTS OF IT INACTIVE.

If we ever decided to drop out of cookbook-writing society completely and become surfer dudettes, we would eat these amazing tacos every single day, without even bothering to change out of our wet suits first. Beer and chile-marinated tempeh is first slapped onto the grill (or fried in a cast-iron pan), then lovingly stuffed into steamy corn tortillas, topped with a bright and tangy mayo-free coleslaw, and drenched with luscious lime crema dressing. It"s a perfect, light, summer meal, or even if you just want to pretend it"s summer. Best served with an ice-cold Mexican beer.

There are a few components to this recipe that need to marinate for about an hour each-half hour if you"re desperate-but putting these together is a snap. Better yet, make the slaw (save some time and look for preshredded cabbage in the produce aisle) and marinate the tempeh overnight for best results. More than likely, you"ll have marinade and slaw to spare, so why not marinate an additional batch of steamed tempeh while you"re at it?

Use Sour Cilantro Cream (page 209) in place of the lime crema. Thin it out slightly with additional lime juice or soy milk so that it"s the consistency of a thick salad dressing.

Leftover tempeh, lime crema, and garnishes make an amazing "taco" salad served with salad greens and crunchy tortilla chip strips.

Taco slaw: 3 heaping cups finely shredded purple or white cabbage (10-12 ounces), or a mix of both

1 carrot, shredded finely

cup apple cider vinegar

2 pickled jalapenos, diced finely

1 teaspoon salt

A few twists of freshly ground black pepper

For the Lime Crema: cup plain soy yogurt

3 tablespoons lime juice

2 tablespoons grapeseed oil or avocado oil

cup lightly packed fresh cilantro leaves

teaspoon salt

Chile-Beer Marinade: cup beer, pilsner or ale style (Mexican preferred)

2 cloves garlic, crushed

2 tablespoons peanut oil

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons lime juice

2-3 teaspoons chile powder (premixed or mix your own with ancho, poblano or chipotle powders)

teaspoon ground c.u.min

1 (8-ounce) package tempeh

12-16 soft, white corn tortillas

Garnishes (use one or more): Red radishes, sliced paper thin

Fresh tomato, seeded and diced

Pickled jalapenos, sliced

Your favorite Mexican-style hot sauce

Avocado, sliced or diced

PREPARE THE slaw first: Mix all the ingredients well in a large gla.s.s or plastic bowl; don"t use metal. Either leave in the bowl or transfer to narrower, cylindrical container, such as a 1-pint plastic takeout container. Cover the top of the container loosely with plastic wrap, press it down on top of slaw, and place in fridge. Weight down the slaw with something heavy, such as cans of beans or a full pickle jar. Allow the slaw to press for minimum an hour. Slaw improves the longer it"s allowed to mellow. When ready to use, squeeze out handfuls to release any excess juice.

Make the lime crema: Blend all ingredients in a blender until creamy and smooth. Add more salt or limejuice to taste, if desired. Pour into an airtight container and chill for an hour.

Make the marinade: Whisk all the ingredients together and pour into a gla.s.s pie plate or ca.s.serole dish.

Prepare the tempeh: Bring a 2-quart pot of water to a boil. Slice the tempeh into three pieces lengthwise, then slice each in half horizontally through the middle. When the water is boiling, add the tempeh, lower heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Use tongs to remove the tempeh and then immediately place the pieces in the marinade dish. Marinate for 1 hour, flipping them every now and again to cover every surface.

Preheat the oven to 200F. Preheat a greased grill pan (brush well with peanut oil or use a high-heat grill spray) over medium-high heat. Or, prepare a heavy skillet with enough peanut oil to lightly coat its surface, and preheat it.

Grill or fry each side of the tempeh pieces for 5 minutes. When each side is almost done, spoon some of the marinade over the tempeh and let it cook for 30 more seconds. Remove the tempeh from the heat and slice into thin strips. Keep warm, covered in foil in the oven while preparing and a.s.sembling tacos. Continue to heat your cast-iron grill or heavy skillet once the tempeh is done. Use a new cast iron skillet if your cast iron is too sticky, or wipe it down with a paper towel to continue.

To a.s.semble the tacos: Create a taco a.s.sembly line: tortillas, lime crema, slaw, sliced grilled tempeh, and garnishes. Heat a corn tortilla on the grill for 30 seconds, then flip the tortilla over and heat until it has become soft and pliable. Repeat with a second tortilla and arrange both, slightly overlapping, on a serving dish. We like to use two tortillas per taco (helps with piling on the fillings), but you can make smaller tacos using just one tortilla. If not serving immediately, stack the hot tortillas, wrap them tightly in foil, and keep them warm in the oven. Then, spread a little lime crema down the center of the tortillas, pile on some slaw, and top with the tempeh and then with any garnish you like. Drizzle on extra lime crema and hot sauce, if desired. Fold and eat.

BLACK BEAN BURGERS.