The Dumpling_ A Seasonal Guide

Chapter 4

Kroppkakor (Sweden) (Sweden) SILESIAN POTATO DUMPLINGS WITH MUSHROOM SAUCE.

Kluski l l skie skie (Poland) (Poland) CHESTNUT GNOCCHI WITH WALNUT SAUCE.

Gnocchi di Castagne con Salsa di Noci (Italy) (Italy) PANFRIED DUMPLINGS STUFFED WITH CHICKEN AND MUSHROOMS.

Jiao Zi (China) (China) Spoon-Dropped Semolina Dumplings Kletski (Russia) (Russia) SERVES 4 ( 4 (MAKES ABOUT 28 28 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

Kletski are soft, egg-rich dumplings full of b.u.t.tery flavor. Lightly cooking the flour and fat as they are mixed together creates a tender, semicongealed paste into which the eggs are mixed. They are wonderful with melted b.u.t.ter and sour cream, but they are just as popular when served in a meaty broth or in a beet soup. are soft, egg-rich dumplings full of b.u.t.tery flavor. Lightly cooking the flour and fat as they are mixed together creates a tender, semicongealed paste into which the eggs are mixed. They are wonderful with melted b.u.t.ter and sour cream, but they are just as popular when served in a meaty broth or in a beet soup.



For the Dumplings cup milk6 tablespoons ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter cup semolina flour teaspoon salt2 large eggs, separated2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, dill, tarragon, or a combination (optional)For Serving4 tablespoons ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, melted just before serving cup sour creamEquipmentLarge, wide bowl to hold the dumplings cooked in batches 1. MAKE THE DOUGH MAKE THE DOUGH: Pour the milk into a small pot and add the 6 tablespoons b.u.t.ter. Stir over medium heat until the milk just begins to bubble around the edges of the pot. Add the semolina flour and the salt all at once, stir vigorously until just combined, and immediately remove from the heat. Continue stirring until all the liquid has been absorbed and you have a thick, glossy, pasty batter. Pour the milk into a small pot and add the 6 tablespoons b.u.t.ter. Stir over medium heat until the milk just begins to bubble around the edges of the pot. Add the semolina flour and the salt all at once, stir vigorously until just combined, and immediately remove from the heat. Continue stirring until all the liquid has been absorbed and you have a thick, glossy, pasty batter.

2. Place the pan over low heat and stir continuously until the batter thickens into a soft dough that pulls away from the sides of the pot. Continue stirring until the pasty coating left on the bottom and sides of the pan begins to brown, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat, scoop into a medium bowl, break it up a bit, and allow it to cool slightly. Place the pan over low heat and stir continuously until the batter thickens into a soft dough that pulls away from the sides of the pot. Continue stirring until the pasty coating left on the bottom and sides of the pan begins to brown, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat, scoop into a medium bowl, break it up a bit, and allow it to cool slightly.

3. While the dough is still warm, add one egg yolk. Mix it in completely with a wooden spoon, then mix in the second yolk. While the dough is still warm, add one egg yolk. Mix it in completely with a wooden spoon, then mix in the second yolk.

4. Whisk the egg whites in a large bowl until they form soft peaks. Add half of the egg whites to the dough and mix until well combined. Now add and fold in the remaining egg whites and the parsley if using. Whisk the egg whites in a large bowl until they form soft peaks. Add half of the egg whites to the dough and mix until well combined. Now add and fold in the remaining egg whites and the parsley if using.

5. COOK THE DUMPLINGS COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Fill a large pot halfway with salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer. Scoop up a rounded tablespoon of the dough. Use another spoon or your finger to move the dough gently off the spoon and into the water. Try to drop in about 14 spoonfuls of dough, leaving as much s.p.a.ce as you can around each dumpling, before the first one begins to float. Cook until all of them are floating, about 2 minutes, then cook for 3 minutes longer. Fill a large pot halfway with salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer. Scoop up a rounded tablespoon of the dough. Use another spoon or your finger to move the dough gently off the spoon and into the water. Try to drop in about 14 spoonfuls of dough, leaving as much s.p.a.ce as you can around each dumpling, before the first one begins to float. Cook until all of them are floating, about 2 minutes, then cook for 3 minutes longer.

6. Remove the dumplings with a slotted spoon, place them in the large bowl with a ladleful of the cooking liquid to prevent them from sticking, and keep warm. Cook the remaining dough and place the dumplings in the bowl with another ladle of the cooking liquid. Remove the dumplings with a slotted spoon, place them in the large bowl with a ladleful of the cooking liquid to prevent them from sticking, and keep warm. Cook the remaining dough and place the dumplings in the bowl with another ladle of the cooking liquid.

7. Once all of the dumplings have been cooked, drain and place them in a large serving bowl. Drizzle with melted b.u.t.ter and serve with a side of sour cream. Once all of the dumplings have been cooked, drain and place them in a large serving bowl. Drizzle with melted b.u.t.ter and serve with a side of sour cream. Kletski Kletski are also good the next day, fried in a little b.u.t.ter and served with eggs for breakfast or a light snack. are also good the next day, fried in a little b.u.t.ter and served with eggs for breakfast or a light snack.

Chocolate Bread Crumb Pudding (England) SERVES 4 ( 4 (MAKES 1 1 DUMPLING DUMPLING).

This steamed pudding looks like a traditional and elegant chocolate cake, but because it is made with bread crumbs it has a distinctive and denser texture. The slight saltiness of the bread accentuates the flavor of the sweet, dark chocolate. This pudding is excellent served warm or at room temperature.

The dumpling is made using the Pudding Basin Setup.

For the Dumpling2 cups coa.r.s.e fresh crustless white bread crumbs (see GLOSSARY OF INGREDIENTS)1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour cup sugar2 teaspoons baking powder teaspoon salt6 tablespoons ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, cut into chunksOne 4-ounce bar semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, cut into small chunks, or 2 2/3 cup chocolate chips cup chocolate chips2 large eggs, beaten cup milkFor Cooking and ServingUnsalted b.u.t.ter and sugar to coat the pudding basin1 recipe Cream Sauce or Sweetened Whipped Cream (recipes follow)Equipment24-inch square of muslin35-inch length of kitchen string4- to 5-cup pudding basinPot large enough to hold the basin when coveredParchment paper 1. MAKE THE BATTER MAKE THE BATTER: Combine the bread crumbs, flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt in a large bowl. Combine the bread crumbs, flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt in a large bowl.

2. Melt the b.u.t.ter and the chocolate in a double boiler or in a stainless-steel bowl set on top of a pot filled with 1 inch of simmering water. (The bowl should not touch the simmering water but should rest directly above it.) Stir constantly to avoid scorching the chocolate. Remove from the heat the moment the chocolate has melted completely, place on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the chocolate to cool slightly. Melt the b.u.t.ter and the chocolate in a double boiler or in a stainless-steel bowl set on top of a pot filled with 1 inch of simmering water. (The bowl should not touch the simmering water but should rest directly above it.) Stir constantly to avoid scorching the chocolate. Remove from the heat the moment the chocolate has melted completely, place on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the chocolate to cool slightly.

3. Pour the eggs into the bread crumb mixture along with the melted chocolate and mix well. Slowly stir in the milk. Do not overmix. Pour the eggs into the bread crumb mixture along with the melted chocolate and mix well. Slowly stir in the milk. Do not overmix.

4. a.s.sEMBLE AND STEAM THE DUMPLING a.s.sEMBLE AND STEAM THE DUMPLING: Before a.s.sembling the pudding, review the Pudding Basin Setup. Before a.s.sembling the pudding, review the Pudding Basin Setup.

5. Soak the muslin and the string under running water. Wring them out and set aside. Soak the muslin and the string under running water. Wring them out and set aside.

6. Place the empty pudding basin in the pot. Pour water into the s.p.a.ce between the basin and the pot until it comes three-quarters of the way up the sides of the basin. Remove the basin and bring the water to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low for a gentle simmer. Place the empty pudding basin in the pot. Pour water into the s.p.a.ce between the basin and the pot until it comes three-quarters of the way up the sides of the basin. Remove the basin and bring the water to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low for a gentle simmer.

7. Meanwhile, make sure the interior of the basin is dry before rubbing it with b.u.t.ter and coating it with sugar. Scoop the batter into the basin and wiggle it gently to level it off. Cut out a round of parchment paper and place it on top of the batter. Cover the basin with the damp muslin and secure it tightly with the string. Tie the opposite corners of the muslin into handles over the top of the pudding. Meanwhile, make sure the interior of the basin is dry before rubbing it with b.u.t.ter and coating it with sugar. Scoop the batter into the basin and wiggle it gently to level it off. Cut out a round of parchment paper and place it on top of the batter. Cover the basin with the damp muslin and secure it tightly with the string. Tie the opposite corners of the muslin into handles over the top of the pudding.

8. Using tongs or a wooden spoon, push a folded cloth, such as a standard white cotton napkin, into the water and arrange it to lie flat on the bottom of the pot. Using the cloth handle, carefully lower the basin into the pot, cover, and simmer for at least 1 hours or up to 2 hours for a pudding that"s even richer in flavor and texture. Check the water level every 30 minutes and replenish with boiling water as needed. Using tongs or a wooden spoon, push a folded cloth, such as a standard white cotton napkin, into the water and arrange it to lie flat on the bottom of the pot. Using the cloth handle, carefully lower the basin into the pot, cover, and simmer for at least 1 hours or up to 2 hours for a pudding that"s even richer in flavor and texture. Check the water level every 30 minutes and replenish with boiling water as needed.

9. Remove the pot from the heat. Using a pot holder to grasp the cloth handle, carefully remove the basin from the pot, put it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the pudding to cool for 5 minutes. Remove the string, cloth, and paper. Unmold by inverting it onto a plate. Slice and serve warm with Cream Sauce, Sweetened Whipped Cream, or vanilla ice cream. The pudding can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Reheat in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (TIPS). Remove the pot from the heat. Using a pot holder to grasp the cloth handle, carefully remove the basin from the pot, put it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the pudding to cool for 5 minutes. Remove the string, cloth, and paper. Unmold by inverting it onto a plate. Slice and serve warm with Cream Sauce, Sweetened Whipped Cream, or vanilla ice cream. The pudding can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Reheat in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (TIPS).

CREAM SAUCE.

MAKES ABOUT 1 1 CUPS CUPS.

cup heavy cream cup milk cup sugarPinch of salt Combine all the ingredients in a small saucepan and heat over high heat. Stir continuously until the sugar has dissolved and the sauce just begins to bubble around the edges of the saucepan. Remove from the heat and let the sauce cool slightly before serving. You can also make the sauce up to 3 days in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container. Reheat the sauce over medium heat until warm, stirring constantly.

SWEETENED WHIPPED CREAM.

MAKES ABOUT 1 1 CUPS CUPS.

cup heavy cream1 tablespoons superfine sugar (or granulated sugar pulsed in a clean spice or coffee grinder for 1 to 2 minutes) 1. Chill a whisk and a medium metal bowl in the freezer for 5 minutes. If using an electric hand mixer, place the whisking attachment in the freezer. Chill a whisk and a medium metal bowl in the freezer for 5 minutes. If using an electric hand mixer, place the whisking attachment in the freezer.

2. Whisk the heavy cream in the chilled bowl until it forms soft peaks. Add half of the sugar and combine with a few strokes. Add the remaining sugar and whisk until firm peaks form. Serve immediately. Whisk the heavy cream in the chilled bowl until it forms soft peaks. Add half of the sugar and combine with a few strokes. Add the remaining sugar and whisk until firm peaks form. Serve immediately.

Milk-Steamed Buns with Vanilla Custard Sauce Dampfnudeln (Germany) (Germany) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 8 ( 8 (MAKES 8 8 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

These popular yeast buns go very well with meat and savory sauces, but they are also delicious as a snack or a dessert-as shown here-served with a good custard or fruit sauce. Simmering the buns in b.u.t.ter and milk makes them extra soft and moist, but once the liquid has cooked off, they"re left in the pan a moment longer so that their bottoms can get crispy and brown. The prune sauce recipe that follows can be spooned over the top, or the buns can be cooked directly in the sauce.

For the Dumplings cup warm water, preferably nonchlorinated, such as distilled or spring water1/3 cup plus 1 teaspoon sugar cup plus 1 teaspoon sugar1 teaspoons active dry yeast (about packet)2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus some extra for dusting teaspoon salt2 large eggs, at room temperature, beaten6 tablespoons ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, meltedFor Cooking2 cups milk2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, cut into chunks1 tablespoon sugar teaspoon salt1 vanilla bean or 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extractFor Serving1 recipe Vanilla Custard Sauce or Prune Sauce (recipes follow)EquipmentLarge, deep skillet with cover 1. PROOF THE YEAST PROOF THE YEAST: Pour the warm water into a small bowl, stir in the yeast, and 1 teaspoon of the sugar, and proof for 15 minutes. The surface should become foamy. If not, start again with a new yeast packet. Pour the warm water into a small bowl, stir in the yeast, and 1 teaspoon of the sugar, and proof for 15 minutes. The surface should become foamy. If not, start again with a new yeast packet.

2. MAKE THE DUMPLINGS MAKE THE DUMPLINGS: While the yeast proofs, place 2 cups of the flour into a large bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Mix in the remaining While the yeast proofs, place 2 cups of the flour into a large bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Mix in the remaining 1 1/3 cup sugar and the salt. Pour in the yeast mixture, eggs, and melted b.u.t.ter and mix until all of the liquid has been absorbed. Work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. If it is too wet and sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers. cup sugar and the salt. Pour in the yeast mixture, eggs, and melted b.u.t.ter and mix until all of the liquid has been absorbed. Work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. If it is too wet and sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers.

3. Knead the dough on a floured surface for 2 minutes. The dough will be soft and tacky. Return the dough to the bowl, cover with a damp kitchen towel, and set aside in a warm place until the dough doubles in size, 1 to 2 hours. Use the Proofing Pot Setup (TIPS) if the temperature of the room is not ideal. Knead the dough on a floured surface for 2 minutes. The dough will be soft and tacky. Return the dough to the bowl, cover with a damp kitchen towel, and set aside in a warm place until the dough doubles in size, 1 to 2 hours. Use the Proofing Pot Setup (TIPS) if the temperature of the room is not ideal.

4. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour.

5. Punch down the dough, place on a floured surface, and knead once or twice. Divide into 8 equal pieces. Roll each piece of dough into a ball and s.p.a.ce them evenly on the prepared tray. Cover with a towel and allow them to rise for 20 minutes. Punch down the dough, place on a floured surface, and knead once or twice. Divide into 8 equal pieces. Roll each piece of dough into a ball and s.p.a.ce them evenly on the prepared tray. Cover with a towel and allow them to rise for 20 minutes.

6. COOK THE DUMPLINGS COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Put the milk, 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter, 1 tablespoon sugar, and the salt in the skillet. Bring to a very gentle simmer over medium heat, being careful not to allow the milk to come to a full boil. Immediately reduce the heat to low. Put the milk, 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter, 1 tablespoon sugar, and the salt in the skillet. Bring to a very gentle simmer over medium heat, being careful not to allow the milk to come to a full boil. Immediately reduce the heat to low.

7. Slice the vanilla bean open along its length with a sharp knife. Sc.r.a.pe out the gooey seeds and whisk them into the milk mixture. If using vanilla extract, stir it into the milk mixture. Using a spatula, gently lift and arrange the dumplings inch apart in the simmering milk mixture. Cover and cook for 25 minutes. Slice the vanilla bean open along its length with a sharp knife. Sc.r.a.pe out the gooey seeds and whisk them into the milk mixture. If using vanilla extract, stir it into the milk mixture. Using a spatula, gently lift and arrange the dumplings inch apart in the simmering milk mixture. Cover and cook for 25 minutes.

8. Remove the cover to allow any remaining liquid to cook off. Continue cooking until you hear a strong sizzling sound and the undersides of the Remove the cover to allow any remaining liquid to cook off. Continue cooking until you hear a strong sizzling sound and the undersides of the dampfnudeln dampfnudeln become golden brown and crisp. Remove them with a spatula and place on a serving dish or individual plates. Serve with Vanilla Custard Sauce or Prune Sauce. become golden brown and crisp. Remove them with a spatula and place on a serving dish or individual plates. Serve with Vanilla Custard Sauce or Prune Sauce.

VANILLA CUSTARD SAUCE.

MAKES ABOUT 1 1 CUPS CUPS.

1 cup milk3 large egg yolks cup sugarPinch of salt vanilla bean or teaspoon pure vanilla extract1 tablespoon brandy (optional) 1. Heat the milk in a small saucepan over medium heat until it just begins to bubble along the sides of pan. Do not allow the milk to come to a full simmer. Immediately remove from the heat and set aside. Heat the milk in a small saucepan over medium heat until it just begins to bubble along the sides of pan. Do not allow the milk to come to a full simmer. Immediately remove from the heat and set aside.

2. Whisk together the egg yolks, sugar, and salt in a medium bowl until the sugar has mostly dissolved. Continue whisking while gradually drizzling in the warm milk. Whisk together the egg yolks, sugar, and salt in a medium bowl until the sugar has mostly dissolved. Continue whisking while gradually drizzling in the warm milk.

3. Slice the vanilla bean open along its length with a sharp knife. Sc.r.a.pe out the gooey seeds and whisk them into the milk mixture. If using vanilla extract, stir it into the milk mixture. Slice the vanilla bean open along its length with a sharp knife. Sc.r.a.pe out the gooey seeds and whisk them into the milk mixture. If using vanilla extract, stir it into the milk mixture.

4. Pour the mixture into a double boiler or a stainless-steel bowl set on top of a pot filled with 1 inch of simmering water. (The bowl should not touch the simmering water but should rest directly above it.) Whisk vigorously at all times until the mixture is thick and creamy, 4 to 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and place on a folded kitchen towel to cool slightly. Whisk in the brandy, if desired, just before serving. You can also make the sauce up to 3 days in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container. Reheat the sauce over medium heat until warm, stirring constantly. Pour the mixture into a double boiler or a stainless-steel bowl set on top of a pot filled with 1 inch of simmering water. (The bowl should not touch the simmering water but should rest directly above it.) Whisk vigorously at all times until the mixture is thick and creamy, 4 to 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and place on a folded kitchen towel to cool slightly. Whisk in the brandy, if desired, just before serving. You can also make the sauce up to 3 days in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container. Reheat the sauce over medium heat until warm, stirring constantly.

PRUNE SAUCE.

MAKES 2 2 CUPS CUPS.

1 cup pitted prunes (about 12 large prunes), chopped fine2 tablespoons sugar teaspoon ground cinnamon cup red wine2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, plus 1 tablespoon grated zest1 tablespoon cold unsalted b.u.t.ter 1. Place the prunes, sugar, and cinnamon in a medium saucepan, pour in the wine, lemon juice, and 1 cups water and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Place the prunes, sugar, and cinnamon in a medium saucepan, pour in the wine, lemon juice, and 1 cups water and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.

2. Remove the saucepan from the heat. Add the lemon zest and b.u.t.ter and stir until all the b.u.t.ter has melted into the sauce. Serve warm spooned over the Remove the saucepan from the heat. Add the lemon zest and b.u.t.ter and stir until all the b.u.t.ter has melted into the sauce. Serve warm spooned over the dampfnudeln dampfnudeln. You can also make the sauce up to 3 days in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container. Reheat the sauce over medium heat until warm, stirring constantly.

STEAMED BUNS COOKED IN PRUNE SAUCE.

Instead of pouring the finished sauce over the dampfnudeln dampfnudeln, thin it out with 1 cups water. Use this in place of the milk mixture to cook the dumplings.

Cloud-Shaped Bread Buns Ting Momo (Tibet) (Tibet) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 8 ( 8 (MAKES 8 8 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

These whole wheat buns can be found in several different shapes. We like the frilly Fan-Knot Fold because it steams up light and airy and also lets you tear into it layer by layer. The fold may look complicated, but it"s really as simple as stacking a few strips of dough on top of one another and tying them off into a knot. Turmeric oil and a sprinkling of salt help to enhance the natural sweetness of the whole wheat.

These dumplings are made using the Fan-Knot Fold.

For the Dumplings1 cup warm water, preferably nonchlorinated, such as distilled or spring water teaspoon sugar1 teaspoons active dry yeast (about packet)11/3 cups whole wheat flour cups whole wheat flour2/3 cup unbleached all-purpose flour, plus some extra for dusting cup unbleached all-purpose flour, plus some extra for dusting teaspoon baking powderFor the Glaze teaspoon ground turmeric teaspoon salt2 tablespoons grapeseed or other neutral oilFor CookingGrapeseed or other neutral oil to coat the steamer basketEquipment8- to 10-quart steamer pot 1. PROOF THE YEAST PROOF THE YEAST: Pour the warm water into a small bowl, stir in the sugar and the yeast, and proof for 15 minutes. The surface should become foamy. If not, start again with a new yeast packet. Pour the warm water into a small bowl, stir in the sugar and the yeast, and proof for 15 minutes. The surface should become foamy. If not, start again with a new yeast packet.

2. MAKE THE DOUGH MAKE THE DOUGH: While the yeast proofs, combine the flours in a large bowl. Scoop out cup and set aside. Mix in the baking powder. Pour in the yeasty water and mix until all the liquid has been absorbed. Work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. If the dough is wet and sticky, work in some of the reserved flour mixture, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers. While the yeast proofs, combine the flours in a large bowl. Scoop out cup and set aside. Mix in the baking powder. Pour in the yeasty water and mix until all the liquid has been absorbed. Work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. If the dough is wet and sticky, work in some of the reserved flour mixture, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers.

3. Place the dough on a floured surface and knead for 4 to 5 minutes. The dough will be soft and tacky. Return the dough to the bowl, cover with a damp kitchen towel, and set aside in a warm place for 1 to 2 hours. The dough will double in size. Use the Proofing Pot Setup (TIPS) if the temperature of the room is not ideal. Place the dough on a floured surface and knead for 4 to 5 minutes. The dough will be soft and tacky. Return the dough to the bowl, cover with a damp kitchen towel, and set aside in a warm place for 1 to 2 hours. The dough will double in size. Use the Proofing Pot Setup (TIPS) if the temperature of the room is not ideal.

4. a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS: Before a.s.sembling the Before a.s.sembling the ting momo, ting momo, review the Fan-Knot Fold. review the Fan-Knot Fold.

5. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little all-purpose flour. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little all-purpose flour.

6. Punch down the dough, place on a floured surface, and knead once or twice. Sprinkle with flour if it gets a little sticky. Divide the dough in half, then shape one piece into a blunt log. Roll it out into an 8 12-inch rectangle about Punch down the dough, place on a floured surface, and knead once or twice. Sprinkle with flour if it gets a little sticky. Divide the dough in half, then shape one piece into a blunt log. Roll it out into an 8 12-inch rectangle about 1 1/8 inch thick. Cut the dough into strips every inch along the 8-inch side. You will have 16 strips. inch thick. Cut the dough into strips every inch along the 8-inch side. You will have 16 strips.

7. Stack 4 dough strips on top of each other. They don"t need to line up exactly. Bend the dough strips around into a loop, and push one end of the stack through the loop, creating a simple knot. Gently fan out or nudge apart the strips to make the layers more apparent, tuck in any loose ends, and place on the prepared tray. If you are short a strip or two, use what you have. Repeat with the remaining dough. Stack 4 dough strips on top of each other. They don"t need to line up exactly. Bend the dough strips around into a loop, and push one end of the stack through the loop, creating a simple knot. Gently fan out or nudge apart the strips to make the layers more apparent, tuck in any loose ends, and place on the prepared tray. If you are short a strip or two, use what you have. Repeat with the remaining dough.

8. STEAM THE DUMPLINGS STEAM THE DUMPLINGS: Remove the basket from a large steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Coat the bottom of the basket with oil and arrange as many of the knotted buns, about 1 inch apart, as you can. Remove the basket from a large steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Coat the bottom of the basket with oil and arrange as many of the knotted buns, about 1 inch apart, as you can.

9. Combine the turmeric, salt, and oil in a small bowl. Brush a thin coating of the turmeric oil over each bun. Place the basket in the pot, cover, reduce the heat to medium-high, and steam for 15 minutes. Combine the turmeric, salt, and oil in a small bowl. Brush a thin coating of the turmeric oil over each bun. Place the basket in the pot, cover, reduce the heat to medium-high, and steam for 15 minutes.

10. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket, place it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket, place it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the ting momo ting momo to cool slightly. Place them on a plate and keep warm. Cook any remaining buns and serve. to cool slightly. Place them on a plate and keep warm. Cook any remaining buns and serve. Ting momo Ting momo can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen (see TIPS) for up to 6 months. Reheat them in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (TIPS). If reheating frozen can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen (see TIPS) for up to 6 months. Reheat them in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (TIPS). If reheating frozen ting momo ting momo, allow them to thaw before steaming.

Steamed Bread Loaves Stuffed with Sticky Fried Rice Nuo Mi Juan (China) (China) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 8 ( 8 (MAKES 2 2 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

Stuffed inside this soft, slightly sweet dough is a filling of chewy sticky rice seasoned with bits of dried sausage, shrimp, and shallots. If it seems peculiar to you at first to eat a steamed bun that"s stuffed with rice, you"ll soon appreciate the unique balance of flavors and textures. Slices of this traditional dim sum offering also make an excellent snack.

For the Dough1 recipe Mantou Mantou (Steamed Bread Rolls) dough, preferably made while the rice is steaming but no more than 2 hours in advance (Steamed Bread Rolls) dough, preferably made while the rice is steaming but no more than 2 hours in advanceUnbleached all-purpose flour for dustingFor the Filling1 cup short-grain sweet (glutinous) white rice, preferably from China or j.a.pan, rinsed (see GLOSSARY OF INGREDIENTS)10 to 12 small or medium dried shrimp, soaked in hot water to cover for 30 minutes cup grapeseed or other neutral oil1 link Chinese pork sausage (la chang), chopped fine2 scallions, sliced into thin rings1 tablespoon soy sauce1 teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground white pepperEquipment8- to 10-quart steamer pot24-inch square of muslin 1. STEAM THE RICE STEAM THE RICE: Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Soak the muslin under running water, wring it out, and then drape it inside the basket, creating a lining. Scoop the rice into the lined basket and spread it out evenly. Place the basket in the pot, cover, reduce the heat to medium, and steam for 40 minutes. Every 10 minutes, drizzle Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Soak the muslin under running water, wring it out, and then drape it inside the basket, creating a lining. Scoop the rice into the lined basket and spread it out evenly. Place the basket in the pot, cover, reduce the heat to medium, and steam for 40 minutes. Every 10 minutes, drizzle 1 1/3 cup water over the rice, mix gently, cover again, and continue steaming. cup water over the rice, mix gently, cover again, and continue steaming.

2. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket and place it on a folded kitchen towel and set aside to cool. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket and place it on a folded kitchen towel and set aside to cool.

3. COOK THE FILLING COOK THE FILLING: Drain and finely chop the shrimp. Once the rice has cooled, heat the oil in a large skillet over high heat. Add the sausage, shrimp, and scallion and stir continuously for 1 minute. Add the cooled rice and break up clumps with a wooden spoon. Immediately add the soy sauce and mix in the salt and pepper. Stir vigorously until combined. Move the rice onto a large plate and spread it out to cool to room temperature. (You can make the filling in advance and keep it tightly wrapped in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.) Drain and finely chop the shrimp. Once the rice has cooled, heat the oil in a large skillet over high heat. Add the sausage, shrimp, and scallion and stir continuously for 1 minute. Add the cooled rice and break up clumps with a wooden spoon. Immediately add the soy sauce and mix in the salt and pepper. Stir vigorously until combined. Move the rice onto a large plate and spread it out to cool to room temperature. (You can make the filling in advance and keep it tightly wrapped in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.) 4. a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS: Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Have ready the dough and the cooled rice. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Have ready the dough and the cooled rice.

5. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface and divide it in half. Shape one piece into a blunt log, then roll it out into a 6 9-inch rectangle. Sprinkle with flour if it gets sticky. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface and divide it in half. Shape one piece into a blunt log, then roll it out into a 6 9-inch rectangle. Sprinkle with flour if it gets sticky.

6. Divide the cooled rice mixture in half and, with wet hands, shape each half into an 8-inch-long log. Center the rice log, lengthwise, on top of the dough. Pick up one side of the dough, then the other, so that their edges can meet on top of the rice log. Pinch the edges of the dough together to seal while gently pressing out any air, then pinch and seal the loaf at each open end. The rice filling should be completely surrounded by dough. Place the a.s.sembled dumpling on the prepared tray and repeat with the remaining dough and rice. Divide the cooled rice mixture in half and, with wet hands, shape each half into an 8-inch-long log. Center the rice log, lengthwise, on top of the dough. Pick up one side of the dough, then the other, so that their edges can meet on top of the rice log. Pinch the edges of the dough together to seal while gently pressing out any air, then pinch and seal the loaf at each open end. The rice filling should be completely surrounded by dough. Place the a.s.sembled dumpling on the prepared tray and repeat with the remaining dough and rice.

7. STEAM THE DUMPLINGS STEAM THE DUMPLINGS: Remove the basket from the steamer pot, coat the basket with oil, and arrange the 2 loaves in the basket, seam side down, leaving at least 1 inches of s.p.a.ce between them. Set aside in a warm place and allow them to rise for 10 minutes. Remove the basket from the steamer pot, coat the basket with oil, and arrange the 2 loaves in the basket, seam side down, leaving at least 1 inches of s.p.a.ce between them. Set aside in a warm place and allow them to rise for 10 minutes.

8. Meanwhile, add 2 inches of water to the steamer pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Place the basket in the pot, cover, reduce the heat to medium-high, and steam for 20 minutes. Meanwhile, add 2 inches of water to the steamer pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Place the basket in the pot, cover, reduce the heat to medium-high, and steam for 20 minutes.

9. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket, place it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the loaves to cool slightly. Move them to a large plate, cut them into 2-inch slices, and serve. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket, place it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the loaves to cool slightly. Move them to a large plate, cut them into 2-inch slices, and serve. Nuo mi juan Nuo mi juan can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen (see TIPS) for up to 6 months. Reheat them in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (TIPS). If reheating frozen can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen (see TIPS) for up to 6 months. Reheat them in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (TIPS). If reheating frozen nuo mi juan nuo mi juan, allow them to thaw before steaming.

Potato Dumplings Stuffed with Ham Kroppkakor (Sweden) (Sweden) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 8 ( 8 (MAKES 8 8 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

These potato dumplings are a wonderful way to use up a small amount of leftover ham. Sauteed with onions and allspice, the ham becomes a flavorful stuffing inside a hearty potato sh.e.l.l made from a mixture of raw and cooked potatoes. Serve them up with the traditional side of lingonberry jam.

These dumplings are made using the Bowl Fold.

For the Filling2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter1 small yellow onion, chopped fine pound unsmoked salt-cured ham, cut into -inch cubes teaspoon ground allspiceFor the Dough4 medium baking potatoes, such as russet1 teaspoon salt cup unbleached all-purpose flour or cup all-purpose flour mixed with cup barley flour1 large egg, beatenUnbleached all-purpose flour for dustingFor the Topping4 tablespoons ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, melted just before serving cup lingonberry jam 1. MAKE THE FILLING MAKE THE FILLING: Melt the 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and stir frequently until soft, about 4 minutes. Mix in the ham and allspice and continue stirring until both ham and onion are just beginning to brown, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat, scoop the mixture into a bowl, and set aside to cool. Melt the 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and stir frequently until soft, about 4 minutes. Mix in the ham and allspice and continue stirring until both ham and onion are just beginning to brown, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat, scoop the mixture into a bowl, and set aside to cool.

2. MAKE THE DOUGH MAKE THE DOUGH: Place 2 of the potatoes in a small pot, pour in enough water to cover, and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to medium, and simmer until fork-tender, about 30 minutes. Drain and place the potatoes on a folded kitchen towel. Once they are cool enough to handle, peel off their skins and put the flesh in a large bowl. Mash until mostly smooth. Place 2 of the potatoes in a small pot, pour in enough water to cover, and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to medium, and simmer until fork-tender, about 30 minutes. Drain and place the potatoes on a folded kitchen towel. Once they are cool enough to handle, peel off their skins and put the flesh in a large bowl. Mash until mostly smooth.

3. Peel the 2 raw potatoes and grate them through the finer holes of your box grater onto a kitchen towel. Bring together the ends of the cloth and twist to squeeze out as much of the potato juice as you can. Do this step in batches if it seems more effective. Peel the 2 raw potatoes and grate them through the finer holes of your box grater onto a kitchen towel. Bring together the ends of the cloth and twist to squeeze out as much of the potato juice as you can. Do this step in batches if it seems more effective.

4. Add the grated potato to the mashed potato along with the salt and cup of the flour or flour mixture, keeping the remaining cup of flour handy. Toss with your fingers until well mixed. Add the egg and work it into the mixture until you have a moist dough, about 2 minutes. This dough needs to be firm enough to hold its shape when rolled into b.a.l.l.s. If it is too soft or sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time. Add the grated potato to the mashed potato along with the salt and cup of the flour or flour mixture, keeping the remaining cup of flour handy. Toss with your fingers until well mixed. Add the egg and work it into the mixture until you have a moist dough, about 2 minutes. This dough needs to be firm enough to hold its shape when rolled into b.a.l.l.s. If it is too soft or sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time.

5. a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS: Before a.s.sembling the Before a.s.sembling the kroppkakor, kroppkakor, review the Bowl Fold. review the Bowl Fold.

6. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Have ready the potato dough and the cooled ham mixture. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Have ready the potato dough and the cooled ham mixture.

7. Fill a medium pot halfway with salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Fill a medium pot halfway with salted water and bring to a boil over high heat.

8. Meanwhile, place the dough on a floured surface. Use your hands to roll the log back and forth until it"s 12 inches long. Cut the log into 8 equal pieces, roll each piece into a ball, dust with flour, and place on the prepared tray. Once the water is boiling, reduce the heat to very low to keep it hot while you a.s.semble the dumplings. Meanwhile, place the dough on a floured surface. Use your hands to roll the log back and forth until it"s 12 inches long. Cut the log into 8 equal pieces, roll each piece into a ball, dust with flour, and place on the prepared tray. Once the water is boiling, reduce the heat to very low to keep it hot while you a.s.semble the dumplings.

9. Pick up one dough ball and use your thumbs to shape it into a bowl about 2 inches deep. This will be a wide bowl that is best supported in the palm of your hand. Place a rounded tablespoon of filling in the center of the dough bowl. Close by pushing and pinching the edges of the dough around and over the filling until the filling is surrounded, pushing out any air. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. Reroll into a ball, dust with more flour, and place back on the tray. Pick up one dough ball and use your thumbs to shape it into a bowl about 2 inches deep. This will be a wide bowl that is best supported in the palm of your hand. Place a rounded tablespoon of filling in the center of the dough bowl. Close by pushing and pinching the edges of the dough around and over the filling until the filling is surrounded, pushing out any air. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. Reroll into a ball, dust with more flour, and place back on the tray.

10. COOK THE DUMPLINGS COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Once all the dumplings have been a.s.sembled, bring the water back to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer. Carefully drop the dumplings, one by one, into the water. Cover and simmer for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking. Once all the dumplings have been a.s.sembled, bring the water back to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer. Carefully drop the dumplings, one by one, into the water. Cover and simmer for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking.

11. Remove the Remove the kroppkakor kroppkakor with a slotted spoon and place them in a shallow serving bowl. Drizzle with the melted b.u.t.ter and serve with lingonberry jam. with a slotted spoon and place them in a shallow serving bowl. Drizzle with the melted b.u.t.ter and serve with lingonberry jam.

Silesian Potato Dumplings with Mushroom Sauce Kluski lskie lskie (Poland) (Poland) SERVES 4 ( 4 (MAKES ABOUT 35 35 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

Kluski are potato dumplings with a unique shape that makes it possible for them to cook evenly despite their large size. A thumbprint is pressed deep into their centers to allow them to cook quickly. These dumplings are traditionally served with melted b.u.t.ter, fried bread crumbs, or a rich mushroom sauce. are potato dumplings with a unique shape that makes it possible for them to cook evenly despite their large size. A thumbprint is pressed deep into their centers to allow them to cook quickly. These dumplings are traditionally served with melted b.u.t.ter, fried bread crumbs, or a rich mushroom sauce.

For the Sauce ounce dried mushrooms, preferably porcini, soaked in 1 cups hot water for 30 minutes3 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, cut into chunks1 small yellow onion, chopped fine4 ounces fresh mushrooms, such as cremini or oyster, sliced thin1 tablespoon unbleached all-purpose flour teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper cup sour cream cup finely chopped fresh chivesFor the Dumplings3 medium baking potatoes, such as russet1 teaspoons salt1 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus some extra for dusting1 large egg, beatenEquipmentPotato ricerLarge, wide bowl to hold the dumplings cooked in batches 1. MAKE THE SAUCE MAKE THE SAUCE: Fish out the soaked mushrooms with your fingers, squeezing the excess liquid back into the bowl. Set the liquid aside and finely chop the mushrooms. Strain all of the soaking liquid and set aside. Fish out the soaked mushrooms with your fingers, squeezing the excess liquid back into the bowl. Set the liquid aside and finely chop the mushrooms. Strain all of the soaking liquid and set aside.

2. Melt the b.u.t.ter in a small pot over medium heat. Add the onion and stir until soft, about 4 minutes. Mix in the fresh and the soaked mushrooms and cook for 3 minutes longer, stirring occasionally. Sprinkle in the 1 tablespoon flour and stir until combined. Melt the b.u.t.ter in a small pot over medium heat. Add the onion and stir until soft, about 4 minutes. Mix in the fresh and the soaked mushrooms and cook for 3 minutes longer, stirring occasionally. Sprinkle in the 1 tablespoon flour and stir until combined.

3. Pour in the reserved soaking liquid and sc.r.a.pe up any sticky bits from the bottom of the pot with a wooden spoon. Stir in the teaspoon salt and the pepper. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 30 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat and set aside. (You can make the sauce up to 3 days in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container.) Pour in the reserved soaking liquid and sc.r.a.pe up any sticky bits from the bottom of the pot with a wooden spoon. Stir in the teaspoon salt and the pepper. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 30 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat and set aside. (You can make the sauce up to 3 days in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container.) 4. MAKE THE DOUGH MAKE THE DOUGH: While the sauce is simmering, place the potatoes in a pot, pour in enough water to cover them, and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to medium, and simmer until fork-tender, about 30 minutes. Drain and place the potatoes on a folded kitchen towel. Once they"re cool enough to handle, peel off their skins, cut the potatoes into chunks, and press them through the ricer into a large bowl. While the sauce is simmering, place the potatoes in a pot, pour in enough water to cover them, and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to medium, and simmer until fork-tender, about 30 minutes. Drain and place the potatoes on a folded kitchen towel. Once they"re cool enough to handle, peel off their skins, cut the potatoes into chunks, and press them through the ricer into a large bowl.

5. Sprinkle the 1 teaspoons salt and 1 cups of the flour over the potato, keeping the remaining cup of flour handy, and toss with your fingers until mixed evenly. Add the egg and work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. If the dough is wet and gooey, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers. Knead the dough in the bowl for about 1 minute. The dough will be soft and just a little sticky. Sprinkle the 1 teaspoons salt and 1 cups of the flour over the potato, keeping the remaining cup of flour handy, and toss with your fingers until mixed evenly. Add the egg and work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. If the dough is wet and gooey, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers. Knead the dough in the bowl for about 1 minute. The dough will be soft and just a little sticky.

6. MAKE THE DUMPLINGS MAKE THE DUMPLINGS: Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour.

7. Pinch off a small piece of dough and roll into a ball about 1 inches around. Push your thumb into the center, without poking through, to create a deep dimple, and place on the prepared tray. Pinch off a small piece of dough and roll into a ball about 1 inches around. Push your thumb into the center, without poking through, to create a deep dimple, and place on the prepared tray.

8. COOK THE DUMPLINGS COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Fill a large pot three-quarters of the way with salted water, place over high heat, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer. Gently drop half of the dumplings, a few at a time, into the water. Stir carefully to prevent sticking. Cook until all of them are floating, about 4 minutes, then cook for 2 minutes longer. Fill a large pot three-quarters of the way with salted water, place over high heat, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer. Gently drop half of the dumplings, a few at a time, into the water. Stir carefully to prevent sticking. Cook until all of them are floating, about 4 minutes, then cook for 2 minutes longer.

9. Remove the dumplings with a slotted spoon, place them in the large bowl, and drizzle with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Cook the remaining dumplings and place in the bowl with another ladle of the cooking liquid. Remove the dumplings with a slotted spoon, place them in the large bowl, and drizzle with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Cook the remaining dumplings and place in the bowl with another ladle of the cooking liquid.