The New Book of Middle Eastern Food

Chapter 16

Variations A Lebanese version is flavored with 1 teaspoon cinnamon and 1 teaspoon crushed cardamom seeds instead of the spices used above. Small meatb.a.l.l.s-made with 1 pound ground beef or lamb blended to a paste in the food processor with 1 grated onion and 1 cup bulgur-are sometimes added.

Instead of the quinces, pears or sharp green apples, peeled and quartered and sauteed in b.u.t.ter or oil or a mixture of both, may be added to the stew towards the end of the cooking.

Chicken is also cooked with quinces in the same way as lamb.

ARAB PROVERB:.

"A guest is the captive of the whole quarter."

(Said to a guest who declines the invitation of his host"s friends.) Lamb with Apples and Cherries Serves 6 * This is a Persian stew which is a sauce for plain rice. You will find many more Persian sauces with meat in the rice chapter. Use dried pitted sour cherries. * This is a Persian stew which is a sauce for plain rice. You will find many more Persian sauces with meat in the rice chapter. Use dried pitted sour cherries.

2 pounds lean lamb, cubed 2 tablespoons vegetable oil cup yellow split peas Salt and pepper 1 cups dried pitted sour cherries 1 tart apple, peeled, cored, and diced Lemon juice (optional) In a large pan, brown the meat in the oil until lightly colored all over. Add the yellow split peas and water to cover, and season with salt and pepper. Bring to the boil and skim off any sc.u.m. Cover the pan and simmer for about 1 hours, or until the meat is very tender.

Add the cherries, diced apple, lemon juice (if the fruits are not tart), and a little more water if necessary. Cook for a further hour and serve hot.

Lahma bel Karaz Meatb.a.l.l.s with Sour Cherries Serves 6-8 * This is an old family recipe which originates in Syria. It is easy to make now that dried pitted sour cherries are available. We used to have to pit them. Serve it with rice or, as was usual in the old days, on miniature pita breads split in half, soft side up. * This is an old family recipe which originates in Syria. It is easy to make now that dried pitted sour cherries are available. We used to have to pit them. Serve it with rice or, as was usual in the old days, on miniature pita breads split in half, soft side up.

1 cups dried pitted sour cherries 1 pounds lean ground lamb or veal Salt and pepper 1 teaspoon grated nutmeg teaspoon ground cloves 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon Vegetable oil 1 large onion, chopped Juice of 1 lemon Miniature "picnic" rounds of pita bread to serve on (optional) Soak the sour cherries in water to cover for 1 1 hour. hour.

Put the meat in a bowl. Add salt, pepper, nutmeg, cloves, and cinnamon, and knead vigorously to achieve a soft, pasty texture. Roll into b.a.l.l.s the size of fat marbles and fry briefly in shallow oil, turning them and shaking the pan until they change color all over. You will have to do them in batches. Lift them out with a slotted spoon. They should be pink and underdone inside.

In a large saucepan, fry the onion in 2 tablespoons oil till soft and golden, add the cherries with their soaking water and the lemon juice, and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the meatb.a.l.l.s and cook gently for 5-10 minutes, turning them until they are cooked through and have absorbed the cherry juices.

Serve the meatb.a.l.l.s with their sauce on little rounds of pita bread split in half and arranged on a large flat platter. Or serve with plain rice.

Variations Prepare a tomato sauce: Fry a chopped onion with 2 chopped garlic cloves in 2 tablespoons oil. Add 4 peeled and chopped tomatoes, 1 tablespoon tomato paste, and a little water. Add the cherries and meatb.a.l.l.s and simmer until the meatb.a.l.l.s are tender.

For another Syrian version, blend half the soaked cherries with the soaking water in the food processor and add 1-2 tablespoons pomegranate syrup (concentrate or mola.s.ses).

Meat Pie with Mashed Potatoes Serves 6-8 * I love this Arab equivalent of shepherd"s pie. * I love this Arab equivalent of shepherd"s pie.

2 pounds mealy potatoes Salt 6-8 tablespoons b.u.t.ter, cut into pieces cup milk FOR THE THE FILLING FILLING.

2 onions, chopped 4 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 pounds ground lamb or beef Salt and pepper 1 teaspoons cinnamon teaspoon allspice cup pine nuts 3 tablespoons raisins (optional) Peel and boil the potatoes in salted water until done. Drain, mash them, and stir in the b.u.t.ter and milk. Season with salt and beat well.

For the filling, fry the onions in 3 tablespoons of the oil, stirring occasionally. Start on very low heat with a lid on until they are soft, then let them color with the lid off. Add the ground meat, salt, pepper, cinnamon, and allspice, and cook, crushing and turning the meat over, for 10 minutes. If you like, strain off the fat.

Heat the pine nuts in about tablespoon of oil in a skillet, shaking the pan to brown them lightly all over, then stir them into the meat mixture. If you like, stir in the raisins.

Spread a layer of meat filling at the bottom of a large baking dish (about 14 by 10 inches), cover with a layer of mashed potatoes, and press down to flatten. Bake in a preheated 400F oven for 30 minutes, or until lightly browned.

Batoursh Ground Meat with Eggplants and Yogurt Serves 4-6 * This intriguing layered dish with a delicious mix of textures and flavors is a specialty of the city of Hama in Syria. * This intriguing layered dish with a delicious mix of textures and flavors is a specialty of the city of Hama in Syria.

3 eggplants, weighing about 1 pounds 4 tablespoons vegetable or extra-virgin olive oil 2 onions, chopped 1 pound ground lamb or beef Salt and pepper cup pine nuts 2 cups plain whole-milk or thick strained yogurt (see page 110), at room temperature 3 tablespoons tahina (sesame paste) (optional) 2 cloves garlic, crushed Cook the eggplants under the broiler or roast them in the oven, then peel, chop, and mash them to a puree (see page 63). Beat in 2 tablespoons of the oil.

Fry the onions in the remaining oil in a large skillet until soft. Add the ground meat, salt, and pepper and cook, crushing the meat and turning it over, for about 8 minutes, until it changes color. Add the pine nuts and cook 5 minutes more. Set aside, and reheat just before serving.

Beat the yogurt with the tahina, if using, and garlic.

To serve, spread a layer of the eggplant puree (warm or at room temperature) at the bottom of a serving dish. Pour the yogurt on top, and cover with the hot ground meat and pine nuts.

Moussaka Serves 6-8 * This famously Greek dish is to be found throughout the Arab world without the creamy topping. Broiling or grilling instead of frying the eggplants makes for a lighter and lovelier moussaka. This one is made up of a layer of eggplants, a layer of meat and tomatoes, and a layer of cheesy white (bechamel-type) sauce. Serve with salad and yogurt. * This famously Greek dish is to be found throughout the Arab world without the creamy topping. Broiling or grilling instead of frying the eggplants makes for a lighter and lovelier moussaka. This one is made up of a layer of eggplants, a layer of meat and tomatoes, and a layer of cheesy white (bechamel-type) sauce. Serve with salad and yogurt.

FOR THE THE MEAT AND TOMATOES MEAT AND TOMATOES.

2 onions, thinly sliced or chopped 3 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 pounds ground lamb or beef Salt and pepper 2 teaspoons cinnamon (optional) 5 large tomatoes, peeled and chopped 2 teaspoons sugar teaspoon chili-pepper flakes (optional) 3 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley FOR THE THE WHITE SAUCE TOPPING WHITE SAUCE TOPPING.

4 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 4 tablespoons flour 2 cups hot milk Salt and pepper Pinch of grated nutmeg 2 eggs cup grated cheddar 3 eggplants (about 1 pounds total) left unpeeled, cut crosswise in -inch slices Vegetable or olive oil Fry the onions in the oil in a large skillet or saucepan until golden. Add the ground meat and stir, crushing it with a fork and turning it over, until it changes color. Add salt, pepper, cinnamon if using, tomatoes, sugar, and chili flakes if you like. Stir well, and cook until the liquid has almost disappeared, then mix in the parsley.

Prepare a white sauce: Melt the b.u.t.ter in a pan. Add the flour and stir over low heat for a few minutes, until well blended. Add the hot milk a little at a time, stirring vigorously each time, until it boils, taking care not to allow lumps to form. Simmer over low heat, stirring occasionally, until the sauce thickens. Add salt and pepper and a pinch of nutmeg. Beat the eggs lightly, beat in a little of the white sauce, then pour back into the pan, beating vigorously. Do not allow the sauce to boil again. Add the cheese and mix well until melted.

Brush the eggplant slices generously with oil and broil or grill them, turning them over once, until lightly browned. Line the bottom of a large baking dish (about 14 by 10 inches) with half the slices. Spread the meat on top, and cover with the remaining eggplant slices. Pour the white sauce all over.

Bake, uncovered, in a preheated 400F oven for about 45 minutes, until golden.

Serve hot, straight from the dish. It can also be cooked in small individual clay bowls, the layers repeated in the same way.

Koukla Meatb.a.l.l.s Serves 4 or more * From the Greek word for "doll," these Greek meatb.a.l.l.s make lovely finger food, as good cold as they are hot. From the Greek word for "doll," these Greek meatb.a.l.l.s make lovely finger food, as good cold as they are hot.

1 slice white bread, crusts removed 1 pound lamb, beef, or veal 1 egg teaspoon ground allspice or teaspoon ground cinnamon Salt and pepper 3 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley Vegetable oil for shallow frying Soak the bread in water and squeeze dry. Put the meat in the food processor with the bread, egg, allspice or cinnamon, salt, and pepper, and blend to a soft h.o.m.ogenous paste. Add parsley, and process very briefly to amalgamate it.

Wet your hands with water and roll the meat paste into marble-sized b.a.l.l.s, and deep-fry in hot oil for a few minutes, until cooked through and a rich brown color. Drain on paper towels.

Variation For an alternative Arab flavor, use 1 teaspoon c.u.min and teaspoon coriander and, if you like, a pinch of ground chili pepper, instead of allspice or cinnamon.

Armenian Kofta with Mashed Potato, Pine Nuts, and Raisins Serves 4 1 mealy potato, weighing about 12 ounces Salt and pepper cup pine nuts Vegetable oil for frying 1 pound ground lean lamb or veal 1 small egg, lightly beaten cup black or golden raisins Flour Peel and boil the potato in salted water until tender, then drain. Put it back in the pan, mash it, and dry it out thoroughly over medium heat.

Fry the pine nuts in a drop of oil, shaking the pan to brown them lightly all over.

Mix the ground meat with the mashed potato and add the egg, salt, and pepper. Knead vigorously by hand until well mixed and smooth. Work the pine nuts and raisins into the meat-and-potato mixture.

Shape into walnut-sized b.a.l.l.s and flatten them slightly. Dip them in flour to coat them lightly all over, and deep-fry in medium-hot oil, turning them over once, until crisp and brown.

Meatb.a.l.l.s with Eggplant Sauce Serves 6 * A delicious Turkish specialty to be served hot with rice or bulgur. * A delicious Turkish specialty to be served hot with rice or bulgur.

4 eggplants, about 2 pounds total 1 pounds ground lamb or beef 2 eggs, lightly beaten 3 tablespoons dry fine white breadcrumbs or matzo meal teaspoon ground c.u.min teaspoon ground allspice Salt and pepper Sunflower or vegetable oil 1 large onion, chopped 2 or 3 cloves garlic, finely chopped 1 large beefsteak tomato, peeled and finely chopped Roast, peel, and mash the eggplants as described on page 63.

For the meatb.a.l.l.s, put the ground meat, eggs, and breadcrumbs in a bowl with the c.u.min, allspice, salt, and pepper and knead with your hands to a soft paste. Or blend in the food processor. Shape the mixture into small b.a.l.l.s and fry in shallow oil over medium heat, turning them until they are colored all over. Remove, and drain on paper towels.

In another large frying pan, fry the onion in 3 tablespoons oil until soft and golden. Add the garlic and stir until it begins to color, then add the tomato, salt, and pepper and cook for a few minutes, until reduced. Add the mashed eggplants, season again with salt and pepper, and cook gently, stirring, for about 8 minutes, until much of the liquid has disappeared. Drop in the meatb.a.l.l.s and simmer for 5-10 minutes.

Tagine Kefta Mkawra Tagine of Meatb.a.l.l.s in Tomato Sauce with Eggs Serves 6 * This is one of my favorites. You will need a large shallow pan that can go to the table. In Morocco the cooking is finished in a wide earthenware tagine which goes on top of the fire. Serve it with plenty of warm bread. * This is one of my favorites. You will need a large shallow pan that can go to the table. In Morocco the cooking is finished in a wide earthenware tagine which goes on top of the fire. Serve it with plenty of warm bread.

FOR THE THE MEATb.a.l.l.s MEATb.a.l.l.s.

1 pounds ground lamb or beef 1 onion, very finely chopped 3 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley Salt and pepper Pinch of ground chili pepper, to taste 1 teaspoon cinnamon teaspoon ground ginger 1 teaspoon ground c.u.min Vegetable oil for frying FOR THE THE TOMATO SAUCE TOMATO SAUCE.

2 onions, chopped 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 cloves garlic, crushed 1 pounds tomatoes, peeled and chopped 1-2 teaspoons sugar Salt 1 small chili pepper, seeded and chopped (optional) 3 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley 3 tablespoons chopped cilantro 6 eggs For the meatb.a.l.l.s, mix all the ingredients together except the oil and knead into a soft paste. Roll into marble-sized b.a.l.l.s and fry them very briefly in batches in shallow oil, shaking the pan to color them all over. Lift out with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels.

In a large shallow pot which you can bring to the table, prepare the sauce. Fry the onions in the oil till soft. Add the garlic, tomatoes, sugar, salt, and chili pepper if you like, and simmer for 20 minutes, until reduced. Add parsley, cilantro, and the meatb.a.l.l.s, and cook 5 minutes.

Just before serving, break the eggs carefully over the sauce, leaving them whole, and cook until the whites have set.

Daoud Basha Meatb.a.l.l.s with Pine Nuts and Tomato Sauce Serves 6 * The dish takes its name from the Ottoman pasha who administered Mount Lebanon in the nineteenth century. Serve with rice or mashed potatoes. The meatb.a.l.l.s are usually fried, then cooked in a tomato sauce, but baked this way they have a light, fresh flavor. * The dish takes its name from the Ottoman pasha who administered Mount Lebanon in the nineteenth century. Serve with rice or mashed potatoes. The meatb.a.l.l.s are usually fried, then cooked in a tomato sauce, but baked this way they have a light, fresh flavor.

1 pounds ground lamb 2 onions, grated or finely chopped Salt and pepper 1 teaspoon cinnamon teaspoon allspice cup pine nuts cup raisins (optional) Vegetable oil 2 pounds tomatoes, peeled 2 teaspoons sugar 3 cloves garlic, crushed (optional) In a bowl, mix the ground lamb with the onions, salt and pepper, cinnamon, and allspice, and work to a paste with your hand. Roll into b.a.l.l.s the size of small walnuts. Make a hole in each ball with your finger and stuff in a few pine nuts-and raisins if you wish. Then close the hole. Alternatively, and more easily, work the pine nuts and raisins into the meat paste, then roll it into b.a.l.l.s.

Put a little oil in a soup plate and roll the meatb.a.l.l.s in it. Then put them in a baking dish and bake in a preheated 400F oven for 15-20 minutes, until their color changes.

Cut the tomatoes up and liquidize them in the food processor or blender. Add a little salt and pepper, the sugar, and the garlic, and pour over the meatb.a.l.l.s. Bake for another 35 minutes, turning the meatb.a.l.l.s over once.

Serve hot.

Variations Add the juice of 1 lemon and a good pinch of chili flakes to the sauce.

Another way is to peel and chop the tomatoes, fry the garlic in 2 tablespoons oil in a large saucepan for a moment or two, until the aroma rises, then add the tomatoes, salt, pepper, and sugar and simmer 10 minutes. Bake the meatb.a.l.l.s on their own as described above for 15 minutes, then add them to the tomato sauce and simmer for 20 minutes more, or until the sauce is reduced and the meatb.a.l.l.s are very tender.

Kofta bel Sabanekh wal Hummus Meatb.a.l.l.s with Spinach and Chickpeas Serves 6 * This is common throughout the Middle East. * This is common throughout the Middle East.

1 pounds ground lean beef, lamb, or veal 1 onion, grated or finely chopped Salt and pepper Vegetable oil 1 pound fresh spinach or frozen chopped spinach 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter A 14-ounce can chickpeas or two, drained 2-4 cloves garlic, crushed 2 teaspoons ground coriander Put the ground meat and onion in a bowl. Add salt and pepper, mix well, and work with your hand to a soft paste. Roll into walnut-sized b.a.l.l.s and fry briefly in shallow oil, in batches, turning them so that they are brown all over but still pink inside. Drain on paper towels.

Wash the fresh spinach leaves thoroughly, and remove stems only if they are thick. Put them in a large pan with the b.u.t.ter, and no extra water, over low heat for a minute or so with the lid on, until the leaves crumple into a soft ma.s.s. (If using frozen spinach, defrost it and heat it in the pan with the b.u.t.ter until it is soft.) Cut up the spinach very roughly with a pointed knife in the pan, add the drained chickpeas, season with salt and pepper, and stir well.

Put in the meatb.a.l.l.s, stir, and cook with the lid on. In Egypt it was usual to cook a further hour, adding a little water, until the meatb.a.l.l.s were very soft. I like the meat to be still a little pink inside, so I cook for 5 minutes only.

The particular refinement of this dish comes from a fried mixture called takleya takleya added in at the end. Fry the garlic in 2 tablespoons oil with the coriander until the mixture smells sweet. Stir this in at the end of the cooking. added in at the end. Fry the garlic in 2 tablespoons oil with the coriander until the mixture smells sweet. Stir this in at the end of the cooking.

Serve with rice.

Variations A Turkish way of eating this is smothered in yogurt mixed with crushed garlic and a little salt, pepper, and dried crushed mint. The whole is decorated with a sprinkling of scarlet paprika. In this case, omit the takleya takleya at the end. at the end.

A variation from Iran is kh.o.r.esh sak, kh.o.r.esh sak, a spinach-and-orange sauce served with rice. The juice of 1 lemon and 2 oranges is mixed with 1 tablespoon flour and cooked with the meat and spinach for 20 minutes. In this case, add only crushed garlic fried in b.u.t.ter, without coriander, at the end. a spinach-and-orange sauce served with rice. The juice of 1 lemon and 2 oranges is mixed with 1 tablespoon flour and cooked with the meat and spinach for 20 minutes. In this case, add only crushed garlic fried in b.u.t.ter, without coriander, at the end.

Blehat Lahma bi Beid Meat Rolls Stuffed with Hard-Boiled Eggs Serves 8 3 slices white bread, crusts removed 2 pounds ground beef or lamb 2 egg whites 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon teaspoon grated nutmeg Salt and pepper 1 onion, finely chopped 2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley (optional) 4 hard-boiled eggs, sh.e.l.led Flour Vegetable oil cup tomato paste 3 bay leaves 1 stalk celery with leaves, chopped Soak the bread in water and squeeze dry. Put it in the food processor with the meat, egg whites, cinnamon, nutmeg, salt, and pepper and process to a soft paste. Then mix in the onion and the parsley, if using.

Divide the meat mixture into 4 equal parts and shape each portion round a hard-boiled egg, making 4 oval rolls. Pat and press the meat firmly round the eggs so that the rolls do not come apart during cooking.

Flour the rolls and fry briefly in hot shallow oil, turning them, until lightly browned all over.

In a large pan, make a sauce by mixing the tomato paste with about 1 cups water. Add the bay leaves, celery, salt, and pepper. Bring it to the boil and simmer for a few minutes. Then put in the meat rolls and simmer gently for about 20 minutes, until they are well done and the sauce has reduced.

Lift the rolls out very carefully. Serve them sliced, hot or cold, with the sauce poured over.

Variation A Persian version is made by adding about 1 1 cup yellow split peas, boiled until soft and drained, to the meat mixture, and embedding a few soaked pitted prunes next to the hard-boiled eggs. cup yellow split peas, boiled until soft and drained, to the meat mixture, and embedding a few soaked pitted prunes next to the hard-boiled eggs.

Kofta Mabrouma Meat Rolls with Pine Nuts Serves 6 * This is a specialty of Aleppo in Syria, where it is traditionally baked in a round tray and served on a round dish, with the rolls arranged in a coil. * This is a specialty of Aleppo in Syria, where it is traditionally baked in a round tray and served on a round dish, with the rolls arranged in a coil.

2 pounds lean ground lamb or beef 2 medium onions, grated 2 eggs, lightly beaten Salt and pepper cup pine nuts 3 tablespoons vegetable oil Chopped flat-leaf parsley and slices of lemon to garnish Mix the meat with the grated onions and the eggs, add salt and pepper, and knead vigorously by hand until soft and pasty.

Divide the meat mixture into 6 lumps. Roll each into a long cigar-shaped roll, then flatten into a thin rectangle. You can do this by placing the rolls between 2 sheets of wax paper and flattening with a rolling pin.

Put a row of pine nuts along one of the longer sides of each rectangle, about inch from the edge, and roll up into a fat sausage, starting from the edge lined with pine nuts.

In an oiled round tart pan or oven dish, arrange the rolls end to end and brush with oil. Bake in a 350F oven for about hour, or until well browned.

Serve garnished with parsley and lemon slices.

Kibbeh Nayyeh Raw Kibbeh Serves 8-10 * Serve as an appetizer accompanied, if you like, with a sauce called * Serve as an appetizer accompanied, if you like, with a sauce called keema keema, the recipe for which follows this one.

FOR THE THE KIBBEH MIXTURE KIBBEH MIXTURE.

1 large onion, peeled Salt and pepper cup fine-ground bulgur 1 pound lean, tender lamb from the leg, trimmed of all fat and cut in cubes Iced water TO GARNISH AND ACCOMPANY.

Extra-virgin olive oil A few mint leaves Bunch of scallions Small romaine-lettuce leaves Puree the onion in a food processor, adding a little salt and pepper. Rinse the bulgur in a sieve under cold running water and squeeze out the excess moisture. Add it to the onion, blend thoroughly, and pour out of the work bowl.

Now process the meat to a soft paste, adding a little salt and pepper. Add the onion-and-bulgur mixture and process again, adding a little iced water gradually (start with cup), just enough to achieve a soft paste. Continue to process, in batches if you like, or knead with your hands to a smooth, elastic, doughy consistency. Chill in the refrigerator.

Serve chilled, spread thinly on a flat gla.s.s or china serving plate. Drizzle generously with oil and garnish with a few mint leaves.

Accompany with trimmed scallions and a bowl of small romaine lettuce, and serve with Arab bread.

Variations You may like to spice the kibbeh kibbeh mixture with 1 teaspoon c.u.min, 1 teaspoon coriander, 1 teaspoon cinnamon or teaspoon allspice, and a good pinch of ground chili pepper or cayenne. I have become very fond of that. You can also have a squeeze of lemon juice over the top with the olive oil. mixture with 1 teaspoon c.u.min, 1 teaspoon coriander, 1 teaspoon cinnamon or teaspoon allspice, and a good pinch of ground chili pepper or cayenne. I have become very fond of that. You can also have a squeeze of lemon juice over the top with the olive oil.

Another way of serving kibbeh nayyeh kibbeh nayyeh is to roll the meat mixture into small, thin fingers and place each one in the cup of a small romaine or Bibb lettuce leaf. Sprinkle with olive oil and lemon juice, or with tamarind diluted in a little water, and garnish with chopped scallions and a dusting of paprika or ground chili pepper. is to roll the meat mixture into small, thin fingers and place each one in the cup of a small romaine or Bibb lettuce leaf. Sprinkle with olive oil and lemon juice, or with tamarind diluted in a little water, and garnish with chopped scallions and a dusting of paprika or ground chili pepper.

Proportions of meat and wheat can be varied, and quant.i.ties reversed.

A marvelous spicy version from Gaziantep, in southeastern Turkey, called gig kofte gig kofte is so full of wheat and has so many spices that you can hardly tell the raw-meat content. Pour boiling water over 1 cups bulgur and soak for hour. Drain, press all the excess water out, and mix with 2 grated onions. Blend pound lean lamb to a paste in a food processor. Add the bulgur and grated onions and the following: 1 tablespoon tomato paste, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon paprika, teaspoon ground chili pepper or cayenne, teaspoon c.u.min, teaspoon coriander, teaspoon cinnamon, teaspoon allspice, and cup finely chopped flat-leaf parsley. Blend to a h.o.m.ogenous paste. Serve spread on a dish sprinkled with parsley and lemon juice, or rolled into little b.a.l.l.s. is so full of wheat and has so many spices that you can hardly tell the raw-meat content. Pour boiling water over 1 cups bulgur and soak for hour. Drain, press all the excess water out, and mix with 2 grated onions. Blend pound lean lamb to a paste in a food processor. Add the bulgur and grated onions and the following: 1 tablespoon tomato paste, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon paprika, teaspoon ground chili pepper or cayenne, teaspoon c.u.min, teaspoon coriander, teaspoon cinnamon, teaspoon allspice, and cup finely chopped flat-leaf parsley. Blend to a h.o.m.ogenous paste. Serve spread on a dish sprinkled with parsley and lemon juice, or rolled into little b.a.l.l.s.