Keema A Sauce for Kibbeh Nayyeh Serves 8-10 * A popular way of serving * A popular way of serving kibbeh nayyeh kibbeh nayyeh, which makes it more of a grand dish, is with this ground-meat sauce. Veal is popularly used.

1 pound onions, chopped 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 pound lean ground veal cup pine nuts Salt and pepper Juice of 1 lemon Fry the onions in the oil over low heat until golden. Add the ground veal and fry, crushing the meat with a fork and turning it over, until it changes color. Add the pine nuts. Season to taste with salt (about 1 teaspoon) and pepper, and add a little water to moisten. Simmer gently until the meat is well cooked and soft and the liquid is reduced. Some people prefer to fry the pine nuts lightly on their own and add them just before serving.

Sprinkle with lemon juice and serve in a separate bowl with the kibbeh nayyeh kibbeh nayyeh.

Kibbet Lahem Kibbeh Dumplings These little b.a.l.l.s of meat and bulgur are poached in soups, in yogurt, and in meat stews with okra, eggplants, zucchini, quinces, and sour cherries. They should be cooked until they are very soft. Make a kibbeh kibbeh mixture as in the method for mixture as in the method for kibbeh nayyeh kibbeh nayyeh (page 269) but using 1 cups bulgur. Process to a soft doughy paste. Wet your hands and roll into (page 269) but using 1 cups bulgur. Process to a soft doughy paste. Wet your hands and roll into -1-inch b.a.l.l.s. b.a.l.l.s.

Kibbeh bil Sanieh Meat and Bulgur Pie in a Tray Serves 10 * This is good hot or cold. Serve with yogurt and salads. * This is good hot or cold. Serve with yogurt and salads.

FOR THE THE Sh.e.l.l Sh.e.l.l.

1 cups fine-ground bulgur 1 large onion, quartered 1 pound lean lamb 1 teaspoons salt teaspoon pepper 1 teaspoon cinnamon 2-3 tablespoons vegetable oil FOR THE THE HASHWA HASHWA ( (FILLING).

1 large onion, chopped 3 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 pounds ground lamb, beef, or veal, preferably a little fatty, cut into pieces Salt and pepper 1 teaspoon cinnamon teaspoon allspice cup pine nuts For the sh.e.l.l, rinse the bulgur in a sieve in cold running water under the tap and drain. Puree the onion in a food processor. Add the meat and salt and pepper and blend to a paste. Remove the paste from the processor and mix with the bulgur and cinnamon, then process, in batches, to a soft well-blended paste, adding iced water gradually by the tablespoon (start with 2-3) to achieve a smooth elastic consistency.

For the filling, fry the onion in the oil till soft. Add the ground meat, salt, pepper, cinnamon, allspice, and pine nuts and fry for 10 minutes, turning and crushing the meat with a fork, until it changes color.

To a.s.semble the pie, grease a large round or rectangular (10-by-14-inch) shallow baking pan with oil. Press half the sh.e.l.l paste evenly on the bottom of the tin, about inch thick. Spread the filling on top and cover with the rest of the paste. This last layer of sh.e.l.l needs to be built up gradually. Wet your hands, take large lumps of the paste, flatten them between your palms, and lay them on top of the filling until it is entirely covered. Patch up any holes and press down firmly with your hands. An alternative way of doing the top crust is to place the ball of meat-and-bulgur mixture between 2 sheets of plastic wrap or wax paper and to flatten it out with a rolling pin. Take the top sheet off and turn out quickly over the pie.

With a pointed knife, cut crisscrossing straight or diagonal parallel lines right through to the bottom, making square or diamond shapes, and also run the knife round the edges. Brush or sprinkle the top with 2-3 tablespoons oil and bake in a preheated 375F oven for 40 minutes, until golden brown.

Variations In the filling, instead of pine nuts have cup mixed coa.r.s.ely chopped walnuts and pistachios.

Add 2 tablespoons pomegranate syrup (concentrate or mola.s.ses) and 1 tablespoon sumac to the filling.

Flavor the sh.e.l.l with 2 teaspoons c.u.min and A teaspoon hot cayenne pepper instead of cinnamon.

Add 4 tablespoons tomato paste to the sh.e.l.l mixture. It is used both for the taste and for the "meaty" red color it lends.

Add 4 tablespoons each of soaked currants and chopped walnuts to the filling and omit the pine nuts.

Kibbeh Makli Mahshieh Stuffed Fried Kibbeh Serves 6 * These are the most prestigious and popular * These are the most prestigious and popular kibbeh kibbeh. The preparation requires skill and application. The art lies in making the outer sh.e.l.ls as long (at least that is what we thought in Egypt, for I know now that the Lebanese prefer a small, oval, stocky shape) and as thin as possible. The crisp, light, tasty sh.e.l.ls should crack to divulge a juicy, aromatic meat filling. Serve hot or cold with tahina cream salad (page 67), baba ghanouj (page 65), and other salads.

FOR THE THE KIBBEH Sh.e.l.l KIBBEH Sh.e.l.l.

1 cups fine bulgur 1 small onion, quartered 1 pound lean tender lamb Salt and pepper FOR THE THE MEAT FILLING OR HASHWA MEAT FILLING OR HASHWA.

1 medium onion, finely chopped 2 tablespoons oil pound lean ground beef Salt and pepper teaspoon allspice teaspoon cinnamon cup pine nuts, lightly toasted Sunflower or light vegetable oil for frying For the sh.e.l.l, soak the bulgur in cold salted water for 10 minutes, then wash in a sieve under cold running water and drain. Squeeze excess water out. Puree the onion to a paste in the food processor. Add the lamb, salt, and pepper and process to a soft paste. Take out the meat and mix with the bulgur. Process the mixture in two batches until it is blended to a soft, smooth, doughlike paste. You may need to add a tablespoon or two of cold water. Leave it to cool, covered, in the refrigerator. This will make it less sticky and easier to work.

For the filling, fry the onion in the oil till soft. Add the beef and cook, stirring and crushing it with a fork, until it changes color. Season with salt, pepper, allspice, and cinnamon and stir in the pine nuts.

To shape and stuff the kibbeh kibbeh, keep wetting your hands with cold water. Take a lump of kibbeh kibbeh paste the size of a small egg and roll into an oval shape. Holding it in your left hand, make a hole in one end with the index finger of your right hand. Use your cupped left hand to pat the paste around the finger and work it into a long, slim oval sh.e.l.l. Opening and closing your hand, pressing the paste with your finger towards your palm, and slipping the sh.e.l.l round and round, clockwise, enlarge the hole and make the sh.e.l.l as thin as possible (less than inch). Patch any holes with a wet finger. paste the size of a small egg and roll into an oval shape. Holding it in your left hand, make a hole in one end with the index finger of your right hand. Use your cupped left hand to pat the paste around the finger and work it into a long, slim oval sh.e.l.l. Opening and closing your hand, pressing the paste with your finger towards your palm, and slipping the sh.e.l.l round and round, clockwise, enlarge the hole and make the sh.e.l.l as thin as possible (less than inch). Patch any holes with a wet finger.

Fill each sh.e.l.l with about 1 tablespoon of filling. Wet the open rim and pinch it closed. Taper the ends to achieve a slim oval shape. British soldiers in the Middle East during the Second World War used to call these kibbeh kibbeh "Syrian torpedoes," and I think that describes their shape rather well. "Syrian torpedoes," and I think that describes their shape rather well.

Leave the kibbeh kibbeh covered in the refrigerator until you are ready to cook them. covered in the refrigerator until you are ready to cook them.

Deep-fry the kibbeh kibbeh in hot vegetable oil for 5-10 minutes, until a rich, dark brown color, and drain on paper towels. Or, if you prefer, bake them: Put them on a greased oven sheet, brush all over with oil, and bake in a preheated 375F oven for about 30-40 minutes, or until well browned. in hot vegetable oil for 5-10 minutes, until a rich, dark brown color, and drain on paper towels. Or, if you prefer, bake them: Put them on a greased oven sheet, brush all over with oil, and bake in a preheated 375F oven for about 30-40 minutes, or until well browned.

Serve very hot. These kibbeh can kibbeh can be prepared ahead and fried just before serving, or fried and warmed up again in a covered dish in the oven. be prepared ahead and fried just before serving, or fried and warmed up again in a covered dish in the oven.

Variations To the sh.e.l.l mixture add teaspoon of allspice and 1 teaspoon of cinnamon, or teaspoon ground coriander and 1 teaspoon of c.u.min.

Add 2 tablespoons pomegranate syrup (concentrate or mola.s.ses) and 1 tablespoon ground sumac to the filling.

For another Syrian filling, try a mixture of yogurt cheese, chopped walnuts, and pomegranate seeds.

A Turkish version called icli kofte icli kofte has cup mixed chopped walnuts and pistachios instead of pine nuts in the filling, and a good pinch of ground chili pepper. has cup mixed chopped walnuts and pistachios instead of pine nuts in the filling, and a good pinch of ground chili pepper.

If you find the making of long torpedo shapes difficult, make the easier Lebanese egg-shaped ones.

Small egg-shaped stuffed kibbeh kibbeh, poached in boiling water for 5-7 minutes, are thrown into meat stews with eggplants, zucchini, artichokes, quinces, and sour cherries.

A fried kibbeh kibbeh with the same filling, sold in Cypriot stores in London, has the following meatless dough for a sh.e.l.l: Wash 1 cups fine ground bulgur in a fine-meshed sieve and squeeze it dry. Mix with 1 cup all-purpose flour, 1 tablespoon oil, and a little salt. Knead vigorously for 15 minutes, adding enough water to achieve a smooth paste. It has a tendency to break as it is handled, and must be carefully patched. Some people add 2 tablespoons tomato paste (to give the color of meat) and 1 teaspoon c.u.min. with the same filling, sold in Cypriot stores in London, has the following meatless dough for a sh.e.l.l: Wash 1 cups fine ground bulgur in a fine-meshed sieve and squeeze it dry. Mix with 1 cup all-purpose flour, 1 tablespoon oil, and a little salt. Knead vigorously for 15 minutes, adding enough water to achieve a smooth paste. It has a tendency to break as it is handled, and must be carefully patched. Some people add 2 tablespoons tomato paste (to give the color of meat) and 1 teaspoon c.u.min.

Potato Kibbeh Serves 8 * For a grander presentation, people make potato croquettes with the ingredients, using the ground meat and nuts as a filling and sometimes dipping in beaten egg and flour before deep-frying. But it is far simpler and just as good to make it in a baking dish. It makes a delicious and filling dish for a large group. * For a grander presentation, people make potato croquettes with the ingredients, using the ground meat and nuts as a filling and sometimes dipping in beaten egg and flour before deep-frying. But it is far simpler and just as good to make it in a baking dish. It makes a delicious and filling dish for a large group.

FOR THE THE Sh.e.l.l Sh.e.l.l.

2 cups bulgur, coa.r.s.e-ground 1 pounds mealy potatoes Salt and pepper 4-6 tablespoons b.u.t.ter, cut into pieces 3 eggs, lightly beaten A good pinch of nutmeg teaspoon allspice FOR THE THE FILLING FILLING.

1 large onion, chopped 3 tablespoons oil 1 pounds ground lamb or beef 2-3 tablespoons currants 2-3 tablespoons pine nuts or chopped walnuts 1 teaspoon cinnamon Salt and pepper Soak the bulgur in hot water for 20 minutes, or until it softens, then drain and squeeze out the excess water. Peel and boil the potatoes in salted water till soft, then drain and mash well. Add the b.u.t.ter, eggs, spices, salt, and pepper and beat well. Add the bulgur and mix thoroughly.

To make the filling, fry the onion in oil till golden. Add the meat and continue to fry, stirring, crushing, and turning it over until it changes color. Add the currants, nuts, cinna-mon, salt, and pepper, and cook a few minutes more. Drain off any fat if you like.

Spread half the potato-and-bulgur mixture on the bottom of a large (14-by-10-inch) baking dish. Cover with the meat filling and top with the remaining potato-and-bulgur mixture. An easy way is to wet your hands and take lumps of the mixture, then press it between your palms and lay the flattened pieces on top of the filling. Build up a crust that covers all the filling.

Bake in a 375F oven for about 35-45 minutes, or until the top is slightly browned.

Kibbeh Labanieh Kibbeh Cooked in Yogurt Serves 6-8 * Because of its whiteness, this is a festive dish served on the New Year to augur a year full of happiness. It is served hot with rice in winter, and cold in summer. * Because of its whiteness, this is a festive dish served on the New Year to augur a year full of happiness. It is served hot with rice in winter, and cold in summer.

Stuffed kibbeh kibbeh (page 271), uncooked (page 271), uncooked FOR THE THE YOGURT SAUCE YOGURT SAUCE.

1 quart plain whole-milk yogurt Salt 1 tablespoon cornstarch or 1 egg white 3 or 4 cloves garlic, crushed 2 tablespoons crushed dried mint 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or olive oil Pour the yogurt in a large pan. Add salt. Stabilize it with cornstarch or egg white as described on page 113, so that it can cook without curdling. Bring it to the boil, add the kibbeh kibbeh uncooked, and simmer for about 20 minutes. Fry the crushed garlic and crushed dried mint in hot b.u.t.ter or olive oil. Pour this over the yogurt when serving. uncooked, and simmer for about 20 minutes. Fry the crushed garlic and crushed dried mint in hot b.u.t.ter or olive oil. Pour this over the yogurt when serving.

Serve hot or cold, with plain rice.

Variations Instead of stuffed kibbeh kibbeh, you may use the kibbeh kibbeh dumplings on page 270. dumplings on page 270.

Add the crushed garlic raw to the yogurt and garnish the dish with crushed dried mint.

Cooked rice is sometimes added to the yogurt in the pan and simmered for a minute or so before serving.

Kouneli Stifatho Rabbit and Onion Stew Serves 4-5 * * Stifatho Stifatho is a Greek dish also made with beef. Serve it with rice or potatoes. is a Greek dish also made with beef. Serve it with rice or potatoes.

1 pounds small pickling or pearl onions 5 tablespoons olive oil 1 rabbit, cut into serving portions cup red-wine vinegar 2 cups dry red wine 4 tomatoes, peeled and chopped Salt and pepper 2 teaspoons sugar 4 cloves garlic, chopped 2 bay leaves 6 peppercorns 5 cloves teaspoon allspice To peel the onions more easily, throw them into a pan of boiling water and boil for a few minutes, until the skins loosen. Peel as soon as they are cold enough to handle. Put them with 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large skillet and cook over medium heat, shaking the pan to color them lightly all over.

In a large pan, saute the rabbit pieces in the remaining oil, turning to brown them on all sides. Pour in the vinegar and wine, the sauteed onions, and all the remaining ingredients. Add water barely to cover and simmer, covered, for about 1 hour, until the rabbit and onions are very tender. Alternatively, bake at 350F in a covered ca.s.serole for 2-2 hours.

Arnavut Cigeri Albanian-Style Liver Serves 6 * Serve with potatoes. * Serve with potatoes.

onion, cut in half and thinly sliced Salt 1 pounds calf"s or lamb"s liver 1 tablespoons paprika Flour Olive oil 2-3 tablespoons finely chopped parsley to garnish Sprinkle the onion with salt and leave for an hour to soften and lose its strong taste. Drain the juices released.

Cut the liver into strips 1 inch thick and remove any tough sinews or skin. Sprinkle with 1 tablespoon paprika and toss well, then roll in flour, shaking to separate all the pieces of liver.

Heat a little oil in a frying pan and fry the liver briefly over medium-high heat, stirring and turning the pieces, until browned all over but still pink and juicy inside. Remove from the pan and drain on paper towels. Sprinkle with a little salt.

Mix the remaining tablespoon paprika with a little of the frying oil and dribble over the liver. Serve garnished with parsley and the softened onions.

Liver with Vinegar Serves 3-4 * This Lebanese specialty is served as an appetizer, but it is also good as a main course accompanied by mashed potatoes. Calf"s liver has a better flavor and texture, so use it if you can. * This Lebanese specialty is served as an appetizer, but it is also good as a main course accompanied by mashed potatoes. Calf"s liver has a better flavor and texture, so use it if you can.

1 pound calf"s or lamb"s liver, cut in thin slices 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil Salt and pepper 2 cloves garlic, crushed 1 teaspoons crushed dried mint (optional) cup wine vinegar If serving as an appetizer, cut the liver slices into 1-inch pieces, but leave the slices whole if serving as a main dish.

Saute the liver in a mixture of b.u.t.ter and oil over medium heat very briefly, for a minute or so, adding salt and pepper and turning the pieces over, until lightly colored but pink inside. Remove from the pan and put aside.

Add crushed garlic and mint, if you like, and when the aroma rises, stir in the vinegar. Return the liver to the pan and cook minute more, turning the pieces over. The liver should still be a little pink inside.

Variations A different sort of tartness can be obtained by sprinkling with 1 tablespoon ground sumac instead of adding vinegar.

Fry 1 sliced onion in the b.u.t.ter and oil until soft, before adding the liver.

Kidneys with Lemon Serves 6 * Serve with salad. * Serve with salad.

6 calf"s or 12 lamb"s kidneys 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter Salt and black pepper Juice of 1 lemon, or more 3-4 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley Remove the outer skins of the kidneys (and the fat if they are enclosed in it). Cut lamb"s kidneys in half and calf"s kidneys into walnut-sized pieces, and cut out as much of the fatty, gristly cores as possible.

Saute in hot b.u.t.ter for 3-4 minutes, until firm and lightly browned all over but still pink and juicy inside, adding salt and pepper. Take care not to overcook, as kidneys become tough. Sprinkle with lemon juice, and serve garnished with parsley.

Kidneys in Tomato Sauce Serves 6 * Serve with mashed potatoes. * Serve with mashed potatoes.

6 calf"s kidneys or 12 lamb"s kidneys 2 onions, sliced 2-3 tablespoons vegetable oil or b.u.t.ter 2 cloves garlic, chopped 6 tomatoes, peeled and chopped Salt and black pepper Remove the outer skins of the kidneys (and the fat if they are enclosed in it). Cut lamb"s kidneys in half and calf"s kidneys into walnut-sized pieces, and cut out as much of the fatty, gristly cores as possible.

In a large skillet, fry the onions in oil or b.u.t.ter until golden. Add the garlic and the kidneys, and saute, turning them over, for 3-4 minutes, until lightly browned all over but still pink and juicy inside.

Remove the kidneys from the pan. Add the tomatoes, and season with salt and pepper. Cook gently for about 10-15 minutes. Return the kidneys to the pan and heat through before serving.

Kawareh bi Hummus Calf"s Feet and Chickpeas Serves 6 * This dish is loved all over the Middle East and in the Balkans for its rich, gelatinous texture. It is sometimes served as a soup. Christians also use pig"s trotters. Serve with bread and a light salad. * This dish is loved all over the Middle East and in the Balkans for its rich, gelatinous texture. It is sometimes served as a soup. Christians also use pig"s trotters. Serve with bread and a light salad.

2 calf"s feet 3 tablespoons vegetable oil Pepper 1 teaspoon turmeric 1 cups chickpeas, soaked overnight Salt Wash and sc.r.a.pe the calf"s feet thoroughly. Blanch them in boiling water until a sc.u.m has formed. Throw out the sc.u.m and the water.

Heat the oil in a large saucepan and turn the feet in it for a minute or so. Add pepper and turmeric, and the drained chickpeas. Cover with water, bring to the boil, and simmer gently for about 4 hours, until the meat is practically falling off the bones. Add salt when the chickpeas are tender.

Bone the feet if you wish, and return the meat to the pan.

Variations Instead of chickpeas, add 1 pounds cubed or thickly sliced potatoes about 20 minutes before the end of the cooking time.

Hergma, a Moroccan variation, is spiced with teaspoon ground ginger, 1 teaspoon paprika, and teaspoon ground chili pepper or cayenne, instead of turmeric. A cup of cooked rice is added at the end. a Moroccan variation, is spiced with teaspoon ground ginger, 1 teaspoon paprika, and teaspoon ground chili pepper or cayenne, instead of turmeric. A cup of cooked rice is added at the end.

A custom in my family was to add 6 eggs in their sh.e.l.ls. They were parboiled separately in water first, to cleanse the sh.e.l.ls, then put in at the start of cooking, at the same time as the chickpeas. Before serving, you might like to peel the eggs and return them to the pot to heat through.

A Turkish version called fasulyeli paca fasulyeli paca is made with white haricot or navy beans instead of chickpeas, and turmeric is not used. is made with white haricot or navy beans instead of chickpeas, and turmeric is not used.

Yogurtlu Pac a Sheep"s Feet with Yogurt Serves 6 * A delicious Turkish dish-the rich meat is offset by the cool yogurt. * A delicious Turkish dish-the rich meat is offset by the cool yogurt.

6 sheep"s feet Rind of lemon 2 large cloves garlic Salt and pepper 6 thin slices bread, crusts removed, toasted FOR THE THE GARNISH GARNISH.

2 cups plain whole-milk yogurt 2 cloves garlic, crushed Salt and white pepper 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 1 teaspoon paprika Scrub the feet thoroughly. In a large pan, blanch them in boiling water for 5 minutes and throw out the sc.u.m with the water.

Cover with fresh water, and add the lemon rind, garlic, salt, and pepper. Bring to the boil and simmer for 3-4 hours, until the meat is practically falling off the bones.

Lay the slices of toast in one layer in a large shallow ovenproof dish, and moisten well with stock from the feet. Extract the feet and bone them, arranging the meat on top of the soaked toast. Sprinkle on more stock if the dish seems too dry (reserving some for the garnish), cover, and keep warm, or reheat when ready to serve.

Prepare the garnish when ready to serve. Beat the yogurt with a few tablespoons of stock, the garlic, salt, and white pepper. Melt the b.u.t.ter in a small saucepan and add paprika.

Remove the dish from the oven and serve smothered with the yogurt and sprinkled with a trickle of red paprika b.u.t.ter.

Mokh Mazlouk Brains with Garlic and Turmeric Serves 6 3 sets calf"s brains or 6 sets lamb"s brains 1 tablespoon wine vinegar 2-3 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 cloves garlic, crushed or halved 1 stalk celery, thinly sliced (optional) teaspoon turmeric Juice of lemon, or more Salt and pepper 3 tablespoons finely chopped parsley Soak the brains in water acidulated with a little vinegar for 1 hour. Carefully peel off the thin outer membranes and connective tissue enclosing them. Wash under cold running water and drain well. Separate each brain into 2 or 4 parts, depending on whether lamb"s or calf"s brains are used.

In a pan, heat the oil with cup water, the garlic, sliced celery if used, turmeric, and lemon juice. Add a little salt and pepper and simmer for a minute or two-or for about 15 minutes if celery is used, to allow it to soften. Poach the brains gently in this barely simmering liquor for 10-15 minutes, taking care not to break them. They will be tinged a beautiful yellow by the turmeric. Add a little water if the sauce evaporates too quickly.

Serve the brains in their sauce, sprinkled with finely chopped parsley.

Variation Instead of turmeric, add 1 teaspoon ground c.u.min to the sauce, or teaspoon ground cardamom seeds.

Sauteed Sweetbreads with Lemon and Cinnamon Serves 4 * In the Middle East it is the more available lamb"s sweetbreads (sweetbreads are the thymus gland) that are used, but calf"s sweetbreads are much more delicate, with an unusual creamy-tender texture. You must start the initial preparation a few hours before you want to cook them, as they need lengthy soaking. 4 * In the Middle East it is the more available lamb"s sweetbreads (sweetbreads are the thymus gland) that are used, but calf"s sweetbreads are much more delicate, with an unusual creamy-tender texture. You must start the initial preparation a few hours before you want to cook them, as they need lengthy soaking.

1 pound calf"s sweetbreads 1 onion, thinly sliced 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter teaspoon cinnamon Juice of lemon Soak the sweetbreads in lukewarm water for 2-3 hours to remove any traces of blood, changing the water twice. Rinse them and remove the tough outer membrane and any bits of fat, but leave the inner membrane intact so that the sweetbreads don"t disintegrate. Put them in a pan of lightly salted water, bring slowly to the boil, and simmer 3 minutes; this firms them up. Lift them out with a slotted spoon and plunge them into cold water. Drain and dry them, and pull off any gristle.

Fry the onion in the b.u.t.ter in a large skillet, over low heat, until soft.