Turn off the heat, and allow to rest for a few minutes before serving.

Tavuklu Pilav Chicken Pilaf 1. Serves 6 * There is something very comforting about this homely Turkish pilaf in which the rice is cooked in the broth of the chicken. For an Arab version with pine nuts, flavored with cinnamon and cardamom, see the variation. * There is something very comforting about this homely Turkish pilaf in which the rice is cooked in the broth of the chicken. For an Arab version with pine nuts, flavored with cinnamon and cardamom, see the variation.

A 3/2-4-pound chicken Salt and pepper 2 bay leaves 1 sprig of thyme or oregano 2 cups long-grain rice Put the chicken whole in a large pot. Cover with water, season with salt and pepper, and add 2 bay leaves and the thyme or oregano. Bring to the boil and simmer, covered, for about 1 hour, until the chicken is very tender.

Lift the chicken out, and when it is cool enough to handle, cut into 6 serving pieces. If you like, remove skin and bones. Keep warm in a little of the broth to prevent it from becoming dry. Then cut the rest of the meat into small pieces to be mixed in with the rice.

Measure the remaining broth. If there is more than about 4 cups, reduce by vigorous boiling. If there is less, add water until you have 4 cups. Set aside 1 cups as sauce. Return the small chicken pieces to the 3 cups of stock in the pan. Throw in the rice, stir, and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer gently, covered and undisturbed, for 20 minutes, until the rice is tender.

To serve, reheat the reserved chicken portions, heap the rice on a large, flat serving dish, and arrange the chicken portions on top. Pa.s.s around the 1 cups of broth for everyone to pour on as a sauce.

Variation For the Arab roz bijaj roz bijaj (rice with chicken), the stock is perfumed with 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon and 1 teaspoon cardamom seeds. The rice is cooked in the broth with small pieces of chicken, as described above; cup blanched almonds and about 2-3 tablespoons pine nuts are lightly fried in oil and arranged at the bottom of an oiled ring or pyramid-shaped mold. The cooked rice is pressed over them, then the mold is turned out onto a serving dish and surrounded by serving pieces of chicken. (rice with chicken), the stock is perfumed with 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon and 1 teaspoon cardamom seeds. The rice is cooked in the broth with small pieces of chicken, as described above; cup blanched almonds and about 2-3 tablespoons pine nuts are lightly fried in oil and arranged at the bottom of an oiled ring or pyramid-shaped mold. The cooked rice is pressed over them, then the mold is turned out onto a serving dish and surrounded by serving pieces of chicken.

Another presentation is to line the mold first with a layer of nuts, then with the boned chicken, and to pack the rice in over the meat. Inverted, this looks beautiful too.

Seleq Lamb with Rice Cooked in Milk 1. Serves 8 * Rice cooked in milk for a very long time, until it is a soft cream, is a specialty of Saudi Arabia. It serves as a bed for lamb, often a whole animal, presented on a tray with melted clarified b.u.t.ter trickled on top. It is said that in the city of Taif they make it better than in Jedda or Medina. It is similar to a medieval dish featured in al-Baghdadi"s manual (see appendix). Serve with a cuc.u.mber, lettuce, and tomato salad. Some people accompany it with honey, to be stirred into each portion separately. * Rice cooked in milk for a very long time, until it is a soft cream, is a specialty of Saudi Arabia. It serves as a bed for lamb, often a whole animal, presented on a tray with melted clarified b.u.t.ter trickled on top. It is said that in the city of Taif they make it better than in Jedda or Medina. It is similar to a medieval dish featured in al-Baghdadi"s manual (see appendix). Serve with a cuc.u.mber, lettuce, and tomato salad. Some people accompany it with honey, to be stirred into each portion separately.

1 leg of lamb (about 4 pounds), trimmed of excess fat, boned, and cut into 8 pieces 2 onions, finely chopped Salt and pepper 5 cups milk 4 cups long-grain rice cup (1 sticks) b.u.t.ter, melted Put the meat with the onions in a large pan. Cover with water, and add salt and pepper. Bring to the boil, remove any sc.u.m, and simmer for 2 hours, or until the meat is very tender. Lift out the meat and keep warm with a little broth poured over it.

Add water to the broth in the pan if necessary to bring the volume up to 7 cups. Add the milk and bring to the boil. Then throw in the rice and cook very gently, covered, for about 30 minutes, or until it is very tender and creamy. Adjust the seasoning.

Serve on a large tray with melted b.u.t.ter poured over the rice and the meat arranged on top.

Variations Here is a Moroccan way of cooking rice in milk: Boil 1 pound long- or medium-grain rice in plenty of salted water for 10 minutes and drain. Then cook in 5 cups milk to which have been added 3 cinnamon sticks, 3 or 4 grains mastic (pulverized by grinding with a pestle and mortar), 2 tablespoons orange-blossom water, and salt to taste. Simmer gently until all the liquid has been absorbed. Serve in a large dish with a meat stew on top.

Egyptians do a rice similar to the Moroccans", flavoring it only with cinnamon and a touch of nutmeg.

Kuzu Pilav Lamb Pilaf 1. Serves 6 * A popular Turkish pilaf. * A popular Turkish pilaf.

3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or oil 1 large onion, finely chopped 1 pound lean lamb, cut into small pieces Salt and pepper 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 2-3 tablespoons tomato paste 3 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley 2 cups long-grain rice Heat the b.u.t.ter or oil in a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan, and fry the onion until golden. Add the meat and brown it gently all over. Season with salt, pepper, and cinnamon. Cover and cook the meat and onions over low heat in their own juices for 10 minutes.

Stir in the tomato paste and add water to cover. Sprinkle with finely chopped parsley, bring to the boil, and simmer gently for 1 hours, until the meat is very tender and the sauce reduced, adding more water if it becomes too dry.

Bring up the liquid left in the stew to about 3-3 cups by adding water. Stir in the rice, bring to a vigorous boil, then simmer gently over very low heat, covered and undisturbed, for about 20 minutes, or until rice is soft, adding more water if it appears too dry.

Variations Add a tablespoon each pine nuts and raisins to the simmering stew.

Add a sliced sweet pepper and 2 tomatoes, peeled and cut into pieces, to the meat, and cook 5 minutes before adding the tomato paste and water.

Djavaher Polow Sweet Jeweled Rice 1. Serves 6 * This Iranian rice, a festive dish served at weddings, is as sumptuous as you get. You can see by its appearance why it is called "jeweled." Iranian and Middle Eastern stores sell barberries (sour berries called * This Iranian rice, a festive dish served at weddings, is as sumptuous as you get. You can see by its appearance why it is called "jeweled." Iranian and Middle Eastern stores sell barberries (sour berries called zereshk) zereshk), sugared orange peel, and slivered almonds and pistachios. Dried pitted sour cherries and cranberries can be found in some supermarkets.

2 whole chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s, boned and skinned 6 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or vegetable oil Salt 2 cups basmati rice cup dried pitted sour cherries cup dried cranberries cup barberries teaspoon saffron powder or crushed saffron threads cup candied orange peel (see note, page 352) or coa.r.s.e-cut orangemarmalade, chopped (optional) cup split blanched almonds cup coa.r.s.ely chopped or slivered pistachios Saute the chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s in 2 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter or oil, turning them over once and sprinkling lightly with salt, until lightly browned but still juicy inside. Cut each half breast into about 6 slices.

Wash the rice in warm water and rinse in a colander under the cold tap. Soak the sour cherries, cranberries, and barberries in water for 15 minutes.

Throw the drained rice in plenty of boiling salted water in a large (9-10-inch) preferably nonstick pan and boil for about 10 minutes, until partly cooked and still a little firm, then drain.

Heat 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or oil in the bottom of the pan and stir in the saffron. Spread alternate layers of rice, chicken pieces, and the rest of the ingredients, ending with rice and sprinkling lightly with salt. Add the remaining b.u.t.ter (cut in little pieces) or oil over the top at the end.

Put the lid on and steam on the lowest heat for about 20-30 minutes, or until the rice is tender.

For serving, see box below.

Variations Instead of the sour cherries and cranberries, have chopped dried apricots and chopped dates, or raisins.

If you use a nonstick pan, you can turn the rice out like a crusty golden cake.

Shirini Polow Sweet Rice with Carrots and Orange Peel 1. Serves 6 * Candied tangerine or orange peel is the sweet element in this festive Persian rice with carrots. Persian shops sell the candied peel, as well as slivered almonds and pistachios. To make the candied peel yourself, see the recipe that follows this one. * Candied tangerine or orange peel is the sweet element in this festive Persian rice with carrots. Persian shops sell the candied peel, as well as slivered almonds and pistachios. To make the candied peel yourself, see the recipe that follows this one.

2 cups basmati rice 2 whole chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s, skinned and boned 7 tablespoons melted b.u.t.ter or vegetable oil Salt and pepper teaspoon good-quality powdered saffron or crushed saffron threads 2 cups carrots cut into thin 1-inch strips cup candied tangerine or orange peel (recipe follows) 1 cup blanched almonds or pistachionuts, chopped Wash the rice in warm water and rinse in a colander under the cold tap.

Saute the chicken in 3 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter or oil with salt and pepper and teaspoon of the saffron for about 15 minutes, until the chicken is tender but still pink and juicy, turning the pieces to color them lightly all over. Then cut into small pieces.

Saute the carrots in the same b.u.t.ter or oil for 10 minutes, or until tender, stirring and adding salt and a few tablespoons water.

Boil the rice in a large (9-10-inch) heavy-bottomed preferably nonstick pan for about 10 minutes, until still a little underdone, and drain quickly. Add the remaining teaspoon saffron to 2 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter or oil and mix into the rice in the colander. Pour the 2 re-maining tablespoons b.u.t.ter or oil in the bottom of the pan and sprinkle alternate layers of rice and chicken with carrot, candied peel, and nuts in the pan, starting and ending with a layer of rice. (You should have 3 layers of rice.) Stretch a clean cloth over the top of the pan, put the lid on, and steam over very low heat for 20-30 minutes. The cloth will absorb the steam and help the rice to retain its fluffiness.

For serving, see box on page 351.

Candied Orange Peel To make candied peel, use the peel of 3 oranges with as much of the white pith removed as possible. Slice peel into thin strips and make a note of the weight. Simmer without sugar in about cup water until soft. Then add sugar equal to the measured weight, and cook until the water is reduced and the strips of peel are sweet. The peel of bitter oranges is particularly good to use for this dish.

Geisi Polow Rice with Lamb and Apricots 1. Serves 6 * Apricots have a particular affinity with lamb. The early Arab Abbasid dynasty, centered in Baghdad, adopted the combination from the old Persian Empire that preceded it and created a series of dishes on the theme which they called * Apricots have a particular affinity with lamb. The early Arab Abbasid dynasty, centered in Baghdad, adopted the combination from the old Persian Empire that preceded it and created a series of dishes on the theme which they called mishmishiya mishmishiya (see page 255), (see page 255), mishmish mishmish being the Arab word for "apricot." Apricot is still a favorite partner to lamb in modern Iran. The rest of the Middle East has adopted it to a lesser degree. You need a tart, natural variety of apricots, not a sweetened one. being the Arab word for "apricot." Apricot is still a favorite partner to lamb in modern Iran. The rest of the Middle East has adopted it to a lesser degree. You need a tart, natural variety of apricots, not a sweetened one.

2 cups basmati rice 6 tablespoons melted b.u.t.ter or vegetable oil 1 onion, finely chopped pound lean lamb, cut into small cubes Salt and pepper teaspoon ground cinnamon teaspoon allspice -1 cup tart dried apricots, cut in half 2 tablespoons black or golden raisins Wash the rice in warm water and rinse in a colander under the cold water tap.

Heat 2 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter or oil in a pan and fry the onion until golden. Add the meat and saute gently, turning the pieces to brown them all over. Add salt and pepper, cinnamon, allspice, apricots, and raisins. Cover with water and simmer, covered, over low heat for 1-1 hours, until the meat is very tender and has absorbed the sweet-and-acid flavors of the fruit, adding water as required. Reduce the liquid at the end.

Boil the rice in a large (9-10-inch), heavy-bottomed, preferably nonstick pan for about 10 minutes, until still a little underdone. Then drain, and mix with 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or oil.

Pour the remaining b.u.t.ter or oil in the bottom of the pan and mix in a ladle of rice. Arrange alternate layers of rice and meat with apricot sauce, starting and ending with a layer of rice. Cover and steam gently over very low heat for 20-30 minutes, until the rice is tender. A cloth stretched underneath the lid will absorb the steam and make the rice fluffier.

For serving, see box on page 351.

Variations You may use 4 boned and skinned portions of chicken, cut into small pieces, instead of meat. They will need only about 20 minutes" cooking before being added to the rice.

Boil the apricots and raisins separately, in water to cover, for 10 minutes. And arrange them in a layer on top of the meat.

Add A teaspoon good-quality saffron powder or crushed threads to the melted b.u.t.ter before you mix it into the rice.

Albalou Polow Rice with Sour Cherries 1. Serves 6*I was served this exciting dish by Iranian friends who live near me in London. As the golden crust was broken, the rice, stained patchily with red cherry juice, tumbled out with little meatb.a.l.l.s and cooked cherries. Fresh sour cherries are used in Iran in their short season. They are pitted or not, and cooked with sugar until they are jammy. I use dried pitted sour cherries without sugar, with delicious results. was served this exciting dish by Iranian friends who live near me in London. As the golden crust was broken, the rice, stained patchily with red cherry juice, tumbled out with little meatb.a.l.l.s and cooked cherries. Fresh sour cherries are used in Iran in their short season. They are pitted or not, and cooked with sugar until they are jammy. I use dried pitted sour cherries without sugar, with delicious results.

2 cups basmati rice cups pitted dried sour cherries 1 pound ground lamb or beef 1 onion, grated Salt and pepper teaspoon cinnamon cup melted b.u.t.ter or vegetable oil 3 tablespoons slivered or chopped almonds 3 tablespoons slivered or chopped pistachios 2-3 tablespoons sour-cherry syrup or jam Wash the rice in warm water and rinse in a small-holed colander or large strainer under the cold-water tap.

Soak the sour cherries in water to cover for 15 minutes. (If they are of a moist variety they don"t need soaking.) Put the ground meat and grated onion in a bowl and add salt, pepper, and cinnamon. Mix well and knead to a soft paste. Roll into b.a.l.l.s the size of large cherries. Fry them briefly in 2 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter or oil over medium heat in a large skillet for about 10 minutes, turning them or shaking the pan, to brown them all over.

Toss the drained rice into a large (9-10-inch), heavy-bottomed, and preferably nonstick pan of boiling salted water and boil for about 10 minutes, until partly cooked and still a little firm. Then drain quickly.

Heat 2 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter or oil in the bottom of the pan and mix with a ladle of the rice. Spread alternate layers of rice and meatb.a.l.l.s, then drained cherries, beginning and ending with rice. (You should have 3 layers of rice.) Pour the remaining b.u.t.ter or oil all over. Steam, with the lid on, over very low heat for about 20-30 minutes, until the rice is tender.

For serving, see box on page 351. Garnish with the slivered or chopped almonds and pistachios and a dribble of sour-cherry syrup or jam.

Variations Use 1 pound of fresh sour cherries, pitted or not.

* Mix teaspoon good-quality saffron powder or crushed threads with 1 tablespoon hot water and stir into the b.u.t.ter or oil.

Teheran Zereshk Rice with Chicken and Barberries 1. Serves 6 * Sour little red berries called barberries * Sour little red berries called barberries (zereshk (zereshk in Persian) and yogurt give this chicken-and-rice dish an exciting flavor and texture. The woman who wrote out this recipe for me more than thirty years ago added a comment that it was the most famous and traditional of Iranian dishes. in Persian) and yogurt give this chicken-and-rice dish an exciting flavor and texture. The woman who wrote out this recipe for me more than thirty years ago added a comment that it was the most famous and traditional of Iranian dishes.

2 cups basmati rice 2 whole chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s, boned and skinned 6 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or vegetable oil Salt and pepper 1 cups yogurt 1 egg, lightly beaten teaspoon powdered saffron or crushed saffron threads cup dried barberries Wash the rice in warm water and rinse in a colander under the cold water tap.

Saute the chicken pieces in 2 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter or oil until tender, adding salt and pepper and turning them over once. Then cut each piece into 6 slices.

Mix the yogurt and the egg in a large bowl. The egg prevents the yogurt from curdling. Add salt and pepper and the saffron mixed with 2 tablespoons boiling water. Beat well. Put the pieces of chicken in, and turn them so that they are well coated with the mixture. Then lift them out onto a plate.

In a large (9-10-inch), heavy-bottomed, preferably nonstick pan, boil the rice in plenty of salted water for about 10 minutes, until it is still a little underdone, then drain quickly. Mix half the rice with the yogurt mixture.

Heat 2 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter or oil in the bottom of the pan. Cover the bottom and sides with the rice-and-yogurt mixture to form a kind of inner mold. Put a layer of chicken pieces in this mold, sprinkle with a few barberries, and cover with a layer of plain rice. Repeat, making sure that there is always the wall of yogurt-and-rice mixture on the sides, until the ingredients are finished. Using a piece of plastic wrap, press gently down all over. Put the lid on and cook for about 30 minutes on very low heat.

To serve, turn out onto a serving platter. If the sides are not detached from the pan, cut around them with a pointed knife. The outside should be a crisp brown crust, and the beautiful yellow and white layered inside crumbly. If you are not using a nonstick pan, dipping the bottom into cold water will help you to turn out the rice.

Variation You can use a nonstick oven dish or pot and bake the layered rice, covered, in a preheated 350F oven for l-1 hours.

Addas Polow Rice with Lentils and Dates 1. Serves 6 * This exquisite and elegant Persian rice can also be made with chicken. * This exquisite and elegant Persian rice can also be made with chicken.

2 cups basmati rice cup b.u.t.ter or vegetable oil 1 onion, chopped 1 pound lamb or beef, cut into -inch cubes Salt and pepper 1 teaspoon cinnamon teaspoon allspice 1 cup brown or green lentils, rinsed teaspoon good-quality powdered saffron or crushed saffron threads diluted in cup hot water cup black or golden raisins 1 cup pitted dates, split in half or coa.r.s.ely chopped cup blanched almonds (optional) Wash and drain the rice.

Heat 2 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter or oil in a skillet, and fry the onion until golden. Add the meat and saute, stirring and turning the pieces, until browned all over. Cover with water, add salt and pepper, cinnamon, and allspice, and simmer for 1 hour, or until the meat is tender and the liquid absorbed.

Boil the lentils in water for about 20 minutes, until done, adding salt when they begin to soften. Then drain.

Now boil the rice in a heavy-bottomed, preferably nonstick pan for 10 minutes, until not quite tender and still a little underdone. Drain the rice. Melt 2 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter in the bottom of the pan, then stir in 2 tablespoons of the saffron water and about a third of the rice.

Spread half the meat on top, then sprinkle on half the lentils, raisins, dates, and almonds if using. Cover with a layer of rice and the remaining meat, lentils, raisins, and dates, and finish with the rice that is left. Melt the remaining b.u.t.ter, stir in the remaining saffron water, and pour all over. Cook, covered, on very low heat for 20-30 minutes.

To serve, see box on page 351.

Havij Polow Rice with Carrots 1. Serves 6 * This lovely Persian * This lovely Persian polow polow is served with lamb meatb.a.l.l.s buried in the rice (see note), or as an accompaniment to a roast leg of lamb (see page 233). is served with lamb meatb.a.l.l.s buried in the rice (see note), or as an accompaniment to a roast leg of lamb (see page 233).

2 cups basmati rice 1 onion, finely chopped - cup b.u.t.ter or vegetable oil 1 pounds carrots, coa.r.s.ely grated orcut into little sticks 1-2 tablespoons sugar, or more(optional) 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon (optional) Salt 1 tablespoon rose water Wash the rice in warm water and rinse in a colander under the cold water tap.

Fry the onion in 2-3 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter or oil until soft and golden. Add the grated carrots and saute gently for 10 minutes. Add sugar and cinnamon and cook 3-4 minutes longer.

Boil the rice in salted water in a large (9-10-inch), heavy-bottomed, preferably nonstick saucepan for about 10 minutes, until not quite tender and still a little underdone. Drain and mix with the remaining b.u.t.ter or oil, keeping aside 2 tablespoons. Heat the 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or oil in the bottom of the pan, then spread alternate layers of rice and sauteed carrots, starting and ending with a layer of rice. Sprinkle rose water over the top and cook over very low heat for about 30 minutes. The rose water, a relic of early-medieval times, gives a subtle perfume to the dish.

To serve, see box on page 351.

Note: For meatb.a.l.l.s, season 1 poundsground lamb with salt, pepper, and 1 teaspoon cinnamon. Mix well and knead until smooth and pasty. Shape into marble-sized b.a.l.l.s and fry in a little oil for about 8-10 minutes, turning them over, until browned all over but still pink and juicy inside. For meatb.a.l.l.s, season 1 poundsground lamb with salt, pepper, and 1 teaspoon cinnamon. Mix well and knead until smooth and pasty. Shape into marble-sized b.a.l.l.s and fry in a little oil for about 8-10 minutes, turning them over, until browned all over but still pink and juicy inside.

Almond Sauce for Rice 1. Serves 4 * An exquisite specialty of Damascus in Syria to serve over 1 cups rice, cooked by any method for plain rice (pages 337-339). * An exquisite specialty of Damascus in Syria to serve over 1 cups rice, cooked by any method for plain rice (pages 337-339).

cup ground almonds 2 cups chicken stock (page 143) Salt and white pepper 2 cloves garlic, crushed 2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley plus 2 tablespoons to garnish teaspoon sugar Juice of 1 lemon, or more Pinch of turmeric (optional) Mix the almonds and cold stock together in a saucepan. Bring to the boil, season to taste, and add all the other ingredients. A pinch of turmeric may be used to give the sauce an attractive pale-yellow color. Simmer gently, stirring occasionally, for 20-30 minutes, until the mixture thickens and the ingredients have blended to give a rich, flavorsome sauce.

Serve ladled over rice, with a sprinkling of chopped parsley.

Variation Add some chicken, cut into small pieces, and 2 tablespoons pine nuts.

Roz ou Hamud Rice with Hamud Sauce 1. Serves 6 * This rice with a delicious lemony vegetable sauce called * This rice with a delicious lemony vegetable sauce called hamud hamud is much loved in Egypt. Use chicken giblets or a chicken carca.s.s to make a rich stock. It is also acceptable to use bouillon cubes. Serve this to accompany chicken dishes. is much loved in Egypt. Use chicken giblets or a chicken carca.s.s to make a rich stock. It is also acceptable to use bouillon cubes. Serve this to accompany chicken dishes.

2 cups long-grain rice 1 turnip, cut into pieces 1 large potato, cut into small pieces 2 stalks celery with leaves, chopped 2 leeks, thinly sliced 2 or 3 zucchini, thinly sliced 2 quarts chicken stock (page 143) Salt and pepper 4 cloves garlic, chopped Juice of 1-2 lemons, to taste 2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint 2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley Prepare plain rice according to one of the recipes on pages 337-339.

Put all the vegetables in a pan with the stock. Bring to the boil and remove any sc.u.m. Add salt, pepper, garlic, and lemon juice. (Start with the lesser amount of lemon juice and add more later.) The sauce is meant to be very tart.

Simmer gently, covered, for about 45 minutes, until the potato has practically disintegrated and the other vegetables are extremely soft, adding water if necessary. Add the mint and parsley towards the end. Serve, pouring the sauce over each portion of rice with a ladle.

Variation Put 6 chicken wings, or 1 or 2 breast halves, in with the vegetables. Remove skin and bones and cut up into small pieces before serving.

Kh.o.r.esht-e Ghormeh Sabzi Herb Sauce 1. Serves 6 * This is one of the most popular sauces in Iran and a favorite of mine. Dried limes and the herb fenugreek give it a unique and delicious bitter-sour taste. Flat-leaf parsley, chives, and in some versions dill and cilantro complete the symphony of flavors. Fresh fenugreek can be found in Iranian and Oriental stores in the summer, and packets of dried fenugreek leaves are available the year round. Only a little is used, because it is very powerful. The dried limes can be found in Oriental and Indian stores in various forms, whole, broken into pieces, and powdered. To make them yourself, see page 44. If you can"t find the powdered one, add an extra whole one. Serve with plain rice steamed in the Persian manner (page 338) or the quick and easy boiled and steamed rice (page 339). * This is one of the most popular sauces in Iran and a favorite of mine. Dried limes and the herb fenugreek give it a unique and delicious bitter-sour taste. Flat-leaf parsley, chives, and in some versions dill and cilantro complete the symphony of flavors. Fresh fenugreek can be found in Iranian and Oriental stores in the summer, and packets of dried fenugreek leaves are available the year round. Only a little is used, because it is very powerful. The dried limes can be found in Oriental and Indian stores in various forms, whole, broken into pieces, and powdered. To make them yourself, see page 44. If you can"t find the powdered one, add an extra whole one. Serve with plain rice steamed in the Persian manner (page 338) or the quick and easy boiled and steamed rice (page 339).

1 large onion, finely chopped 6 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 pounds beef or lamb, cut into -l-inch cubes 4 dried limes (page 44) 1 tablespoon ground dried lime (see above) Salt and pepper 2 leeks, green part included, chopped 8 scallions, green part included, chopped 1 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley cup chopped cilantro (optional) cup chopped dill (optional)4 cup chopped fresh fenugreek leaves or 2 tablespoons dried leaves A 1-pound can red kidney beans or black-eyed peas, drained Fry the onion in 2 tablespoons of the oil till soft. Add the meat and turn the pieces until browned all over. Add about 4 cups of water, to cover. Bring to the boil and remove the sc.u.m, then turn down the heat. With the point of a knife, make little holes in the dried limes and put them in, as well as the ground dried lime. Add salt and pepper.

As soon as you have put the meat in, prepare the green vegetables and herbs. Chop the leeks and scallions finely in the food processor. Then chop the rest of the herbs. My impulse is usually to put the herbs in at the last minute, but in this recipe it is quite different. They are sauteed first, then cooked with the meat for a long time. Heat the remaining 4 tablespoons oil in a large pan and put all the vegetables and herbs in together. Saute, stirring often, over medium heat for about 15 minutes, until they begin to darken. Then add to the meat (if you are using dried fenugreek leaves, put them in at this stage) and simmer for about 1 -2 hours, until the meat is very tender.

Add the kidney beans about hour before the end of the cooking. As the limes soften, squeeze them with a spoon on the side of the pan so that they absorb the liquid and cease to float on the surface.

Serve very hot over plain white rice.

Kh.o.r.esht-e Gheimeh Yellow Split Pea Sauce 1. Serves 6 * This Persian sauce is exquisite, with delicate spicing and dried lime as the dominant flavor. Serve it with plain rice prepared in the Persian manner (page 338) or the quick and easy boiled and steamed rice (page 339). * This Persian sauce is exquisite, with delicate spicing and dried lime as the dominant flavor. Serve it with plain rice prepared in the Persian manner (page 338) or the quick and easy boiled and steamed rice (page 339).

1 large onion, chopped 2-3 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 pounds lamb or beef cut into 1-inch cubes 4 cups water teaspoon turmeric 1 teaspoon cinnamon teaspoon nutmeg Pepper 4 dried limes (page 44) cup yellow split peas, soaked in water for 1 hour Salt In a large pan, fry the onion in the oil until soft. Add the meat and saute, turning to brown it all over. Add the water and bring to the boil.