Remove the sc.u.m and add turmeric, cinnamon, nutmeg, and pepper. Pierce a few little holes in the dried limes with a pointed knife and put them in.

Simmer for 1 hour, then add the drained split peas and cook - 1 hour more, or until the meat and split peas are very tender, adding salt towards the end and more water, if needed, to keep the meat covered. 1 hour more, or until the meat and split peas are very tender, adding salt towards the end and more water, if needed, to keep the meat covered.

Variation The rice and sauce are also served topped with fried diced potatoes. These are added in the pan, at the end of cooking, to sit on the surface of the stew and soak up some of the sauce.

Kh.o.r.esh Bademjan Eggplant Sauce 1. Serves 4-6 * Chicken may be used instead of meat. Serve with plain rice steamed in the Persian manner (page 338) or the quick and easy boiled and steamed rice (page 339). The eggplants are usually deep-fried, but in this instance it is as good to broil or grill them, as they get stewed as well. If you don"t fry them, it is not really important to salt them (see page 289). * Chicken may be used instead of meat. Serve with plain rice steamed in the Persian manner (page 338) or the quick and easy boiled and steamed rice (page 339). The eggplants are usually deep-fried, but in this instance it is as good to broil or grill them, as they get stewed as well. If you don"t fry them, it is not really important to salt them (see page 289).

large onion, chopped Vegetable oil 1 pound lean lamb or beef, cubed 2 dried limes (page 44), cracked or pierced with the point of a knife, or the juice of 1 lemon 3 tomatoes, peeled and chopped Pepper -1 teaspoon turmeric (optional) teaspoon ground cinnamon teaspoon grated nutmeg cup yellow split peas Salt 6 small eggplants (3-4 inches long), peeled and cut in half lengthwise Fry the onion in 2 tablespoons oil in a large saucepan until golden. Add the meat and brown it on all sides. Add the dried limes or lemon juice, and tomatoes. Cover with 2 cups water and add pepper, turmeric, cinnamon, and nutmeg.

Simmer gently for 1 hour, then add the split peas and cook for 20 minutes. Season with salt when the split peas have begun to soften, and add more water occasionally, if needed to keep the meat covered.

Brush the cut side of the eggplants generously with oil and cook them, on the cut side only, under the broiler or on the grill until browned. They do not need to be entirely cooked, as they will cook further in the stew.

Add them to the stew, and cook, covered, for 30 minutes longer, or until the eggplants are very soft.

Variations Fry 1 small chopped onion in 2 tablespoons oil until golden. Add 2 tablespoons dried crushed mint and 2 crushed garlic cloves. When the garlic just begins to color, pour over the sauce at the end, as a garnish.

If you can get hold of unripe grapes, put them into the stew instead of the dried limes.

Kh.o.r.esht-e Rivas Rhubarb Sauce 1. Serves 4-6 * Serve this Persian sauce, which has an unusual tart flavor, with plain rice steamed in the Persian manner (page 338) or the quick and easy boiled and steamed rice (page 339). * Serve this Persian sauce, which has an unusual tart flavor, with plain rice steamed in the Persian manner (page 338) or the quick and easy boiled and steamed rice (page 339).

4 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or vegetable oil 1 onion, finely chopped 1 pound lean stewing beef or lamb, cubed Salt and pepper teaspoon cinnamon teaspoon allspice 1 pound fresh rhubarb stalks Juice of lemon cup chopped flat-leaf parsley cup chopped fresh mint Heat 2 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter or oil in a large saucepan and fry the onion until golden. Add the meat and saute, turning the pieces, until browned all over. Cover with water and add salt, pepper, cinnamon, and allspice. Bring to the boil and simmer for 1 hours, until the meat is very tender, adding water to keep the meat covered.

Trim the rhubarb stalks and cut them into 2-inch lengths. Saute in the remaining b.u.t.ter or oil for a few minutes, then sprinkle with lemon juice and cook for a few minutes longer. Add to the meat sauce with the parsley and mint and simmer for 10 minutes.

Kh.o.r.esht-e Sib Apple Sauce 1. Serves 4-6 * Serve with plain rice steamed in the Persian manner (page 338) or the quick and easy boiled and steamed rice (page 339). * Serve with plain rice steamed in the Persian manner (page 338) or the quick and easy boiled and steamed rice (page 339).

1 onion, finely chopped 4-5 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or vegetable oil 1 pound lamb or beef, cut into cubes Salt and pepper 1 teaspoon cinnamon 4 tart cooking apples Juice of 1 lemon, or more Fry the onion in 2 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter or oil in a large saucepan until soft and golden. Add the meat, and turn to brown it all over. Add salt, pepper, and cinnamon. Cover with about 2 2 cups of water. Bring to the boil, remove any sc.u.m, and simmer gently for 1 cups of water. Bring to the boil, remove any sc.u.m, and simmer gently for 1 1 1 hours, or until the meat is very tender, adding water as needed to keep the meat moist. hours, or until the meat is very tender, adding water as needed to keep the meat moist.

Peel and core the apples and cut into thick slices. Saute gently in the remaining b.u.t.ter or oil in a large skillet until lightly colored all over. Add to the meat stew with the lemon juice. Cook for a further 5 minutes, or until tender. Do not allow the apples to disintegrate, unless you prefer to mash them to a puree with a fork.

Serve with plain rice.

Variation You can add cup split peas to the stew 1 hour before the end of the cooking, and chicken can be used instead of meat.

Kh.o.r.esht-e Holu Peach Sauce Peaches are much loved in Iran and are used in cooking. Prepare this sauce as in the preceding recipe, using either meat or chicken, and subst.i.tuting 4-5 large, slightly unripe peaches or nectarines, preferably not-quite-ripe ones, for the apples. To peel them easily, first plunge them in boiling water for moments only. Then peel, remove the pits, and slice them or cut them into largish pieces. Saute briefly in b.u.t.ter or oil, and add them to the sauce with cup chopped flat-leaf parsley and 3 tablespoons chopped fresh mint. Simmer for a further 5 to 10 minutes. Here again, lemon juice and cinnamon are the flavoring. Some people like to add about 1-2 tablespoons sugar.

Bulgur, Couscous, and Pasta Bulgur Craked Wheat Cracked wheat-burghul in Arabic, in Arabic, bulgur bulgur in Turkey, and in Turkey, and pourgouri pourgouri in Cyprus-is the rural staple of the Arab world and Turkey. In the countryside it takes the place of rice as an accompaniment to all kinds of dishes. It is whole wheat kernels that have been boiled, then dried and ground. In the old days in rural areas, before mechanization, and still today in some parts, it is made collectively. The men harvest the wheat. The women separate the grain from the chaff. They wash the grain and boil it for hours in huge pots until it splits, then dry it in the sun, spread out on large sheets laid out on the flat roofs of houses or in the fields. When it is dry and hard, it is taken to be ground in a stone mill. Bulgur is now manufactured in the United States. Three types of grind-coa.r.s.e, medium, and fine-can be found in Middle Eastern stores, but the medium one is the most widely available. Bulgur is usually washed before cooking. Pour cold water over it in a bowl. Stir well, then rinse in a small-holed colander under the tap. However, when I have omitted washing, I have not detected much difference in the final dish. in Cyprus-is the rural staple of the Arab world and Turkey. In the countryside it takes the place of rice as an accompaniment to all kinds of dishes. It is whole wheat kernels that have been boiled, then dried and ground. In the old days in rural areas, before mechanization, and still today in some parts, it is made collectively. The men harvest the wheat. The women separate the grain from the chaff. They wash the grain and boil it for hours in huge pots until it splits, then dry it in the sun, spread out on large sheets laid out on the flat roofs of houses or in the fields. When it is dry and hard, it is taken to be ground in a stone mill. Bulgur is now manufactured in the United States. Three types of grind-coa.r.s.e, medium, and fine-can be found in Middle Eastern stores, but the medium one is the most widely available. Bulgur is usually washed before cooking. Pour cold water over it in a bowl. Stir well, then rinse in a small-holed colander under the tap. However, when I have omitted washing, I have not detected much difference in the final dish.

Plain Bulgur Pilaf 1. Serves 6-8 * Coa.r.s.e-ground bulgur is used to make pilaf. About one and a half times the volume of water or stock is needed to cook it. This quick and easy dish is an ideal alternative to rice or potatoes. You may well want to adopt it as an accompaniment to stews, grills, and indeed to all foods that are usually coupled with rice. It is tastier when real chicken or meat stock is used (see page 143), but you can use bouillon cubes, and water alone will do very well. * Coa.r.s.e-ground bulgur is used to make pilaf. About one and a half times the volume of water or stock is needed to cook it. This quick and easy dish is an ideal alternative to rice or potatoes. You may well want to adopt it as an accompaniment to stews, grills, and indeed to all foods that are usually coupled with rice. It is tastier when real chicken or meat stock is used (see page 143), but you can use bouillon cubes, and water alone will do very well.

4 cups water or stock (or you may use 2 bouillon cubes) 3 cups coa.r.s.e-ground bulgur, washed in cold water and drained Salt and pepper 4-5 tablespoons b.u.t.ter, cut into small pieces, or vegetable oil Bring the water or stock to the boil in a large pan and pour in the bulgur. Add salt and pepper (taking into account the saltiness of the stock) and cook, covered, over low heat for 10-15 minutes, until it is tender and all the liquid is absorbed, adding a little water if it becomes too dry.

Stir in the b.u.t.ter or oil and leave off heat, covered, for 15 minutes, to allow the wheat to swell and become tender before serving.

Variations For a grand and delicious pilaf, stir in 2-3 tablespoons toasted pine nuts or slivered almonds and 2 tablespoons raisins when you pour in the bulgur.

For burghul bil s.h.a.ghria burghul bil s.h.a.ghria, use half the amount of bulgur with pound dry vermicelli broken into small pieces in your hands and toasted in a dry frying pan or under the broiler, stirring often, until browned.

Bulgur Pilaf with Chickpeas 1. Serves 8 * This is filling comfort food which fits easily with other dishes. You find it in Turkey and in Arab countries. * This is filling comfort food which fits easily with other dishes. You find it in Turkey and in Arab countries.

4 cups water or chicken or meat stock (page 143) (or you may use 2 meat or chicken bouillon cubes) 3 cups coa.r.s.e-ground bulgur, washed in cold water and drained 4 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or sunflower oil A 14-ounce can chickpeas, drained Salt and pepper Bring the stock to the boil. Pour in the bulgur and cook, covered, on low heat for about 15 minutes, or until the water is absorbed and the grain is tender.

Stir in the b.u.t.ter or oil, the chickpeas, and salt and pepper, and heat through.

Variation Garnish with 1 large sliced onion fried in oil till caramelized and brown.

Bulgur Pilaf with Raisins and Pine Nuts 1. Serves 6-8* This grand bulgur pilaf spread throughout the countries that were part of the Ottoman Empire. It is used as a side dish and a stuffing. This grand bulgur pilaf spread throughout the countries that were part of the Ottoman Empire. It is used as a side dish and a stuffing.

4 cups chicken stock (page 143) (or you may use a bouillon cube) or water 3 cups (1 pound) coa.r.s.e-ground bulgur, washed in cold water and drained Salt and pepper cup pine nuts 4-5 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or vegetable oil cup black or golden raisins, soaked in water for hour Bring the water or stock to boil in a pan. Add the bulgur, salt (taking into account the saltiness of the stock), and pepper and stir, then cook, covered, on very low heat for about 15 minutes, or until the liquid is absorbed and the grain tender. Turn off the heat and leave, covered, for 10 minutes, or until the grain is plump and tender.

Fry the pine nuts in a tablespoon of the b.u.t.ter or oil, shaking the pan until golden. Stir it into the bulgur with the remaining b.u.t.ter or oil and the drained raisins and heat through.

Burghul bi Banadoura Bulgur Pilaf with Tomatoes 1. Serves 6-8 * Tomatoes give this pilaf a wonderful fresh flavor. It can be eaten hot as a side dish or cold as a mezze. If it is to be eaten cold, you might like to use a mild-tasting olive oil. Tomatoes give this pilaf a wonderful fresh flavor. It can be eaten hot as a side dish or cold as a mezze. If it is to be eaten cold, you might like to use a mild-tasting olive oil.

1 large onion, chopped 5 tablespoons vegetable or extra-virgin olive oil 3 cups coa.r.s.e-ground bulgur, washed in cold water and drained 1 pound tomatoes, peeled and chopped 2 teaspoons tomato paste 2 teaspoons sugar Salt and pepper 1 teaspoon allspice 1 cups water Fry the onion in 2 tablespoons of the oil till golden. Add the bulgur and stir well.

Add the tomatoes, tomato paste, sugar, salt, pepper, allspice, and water. Stir and cook, covered, over very low heat for 15 minutes, adding a little water if too dry, or letting it evaporate uncovered if too wet. Leave to rest, covered, for 10 minutes, or until the grain is plump and tender, then stir in the remaining oil.

Variation Fry 2 medium eggplants, cut into 1-inch cubes, in shallow oil until lightly browned all over and soft inside. Drain on paper towels and fold gently into the bulgur.

Burghul bi Jibn wal Batinjan Bulgur with Cheese and Eggplants 1. Serves 4-6 * This Syrian recipe which combines bulgur with eggplants and the salty, chewy halumi cheese makes a lovely vegetarian main dish. * This Syrian recipe which combines bulgur with eggplants and the salty, chewy halumi cheese makes a lovely vegetarian main dish.

1 eggplant, weighing about pound, cut into 1-inch cubes Salt 1 large onions, sliced Vegetable oil 2 cups coa.r.s.e-ground bulgur, washed in cold water and drained 3 cups boiling water or chicken stock (page 143) (or you may use a bouillon cube) Pepper 7-9 ounces halumi cheese, cubed Sprinkle the eggplant generously with salt and leave in a colander for hour to degorge its juices. Then rinse, and dry with paper towels.

Fry the onions in 2 tablespoons oil till golden. Add the bulgur and stir. Pour in the boiling water or stock, season with salt and pepper, and stir well, then cook on very low heat, with the lid on, for about 15 minutes, or until the water has been absorbed and the cracked wheat is tender.

Fry the cubed eggplant briefly in hot oil, turning the cubes so that they are lightly colored all over. Lift out, and drain on paper towels.

Stir 4 tablespoons oil into the bulgur. Add the cheese and the eggplant and gently fold them in. Heat through with the lid on until the cheese is soft. Serve very hot.

Burghul bi Dfeen Bulgur with Meat and Chickpeas 1. Serves 6 * A very old Arab dish. It is good to serve yogurt with it. * A very old Arab dish. It is good to serve yogurt with it.

12 pearl or pickling onions, peeled Vegetable oil 1 pound lean lamb or beef, cut into-inch cubes cup chickpeas, soaked in cold water overnight 5 cups water Pepper 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1 teaspoon allspice Salt 2 cups coa.r.s.e- or medium-ground bulgur 4-6 tablespoons melted b.u.t.ter (optional) Fry the onions in 2-3 tablespoons oil, shaking the pan to brown them lightly all over. Add the meat and saute, turning the pieces over, until browned.

Add the drained chickpeas and cover with water. Add pepper, teaspoon cinnamon, and the allspice and simmer, covered, until the meat and chickpeas are very tender, about 1-1 hours. Add salt when the chickpeas have softened.

Add the bulgur, stir well, and cook, covered, for about 15 minutes, until all the liquid has been absorbed, adding a little water if it seems too dry. Let sit, covered, for about 15 minutes, while the grain becomes swollen and tender. It is usual to pour melted b.u.t.ter into the pan before serving, but you may leave this out.

Serve sprinkled with the remaining cinnamon.

Etli Bulgur Pilavi Bulgur Pilafwith Meat 1. Serves 6 * This old Turkish cla.s.sic is a meal in itself, to be accompanied by a salad. * This old Turkish cla.s.sic is a meal in itself, to be accompanied by a salad.

2 onions, chopped 6-8 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or vegetable oil pound lean lamb or beef, cut into -inch cubes Salt and pepper 3 large tomatoes, peeled and chopped 1 tablespoons tomato paste 2 cups coa.r.s.e- or medium-ground bulgur, washed in cold water and drained In a large saucepan, fry the onions in 2-3 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter or oil until golden. Add the meat and saute over moderate heat for a few minutes, turning to brown the pieces all over. Season with salt and pepper and stir in the tomatoes and tomato paste. Cover with water and simmer gently, covered, for 1-1 hours, or until the meat is tender, adding water to keep the meat covered but letting it reduce towards the end.

Add the bulgur and about 2 cups boiling water-a.s.suming there are about 2 cups of liquid sauce already in the pan. Add more if there is not. Add salt, stir well, and cook, covered, over low heat for about 10-15 minutes, or until the liquid has been absorbed, adding a little water if it seems too dry. Let stand for a further 15 minutes, while the grain becomes swollen and tender. The bulgur should be plump and soft. Stir in the remaining b.u.t.ter or oil before serving.

Variations Subst.i.tute 2 chicken joints (1 thigh and 1 breast half, for instance) for the meat. Cook for about 30 minutes, then remove skin and bones and cut up the chicken into small cubes.

Add cup chopped flat-leaf parsley. Mix it in at the end.

Tagen Ferakh bel Ferik Baked Chicken with Green Wheat 1. Serves 4-6 * This Egyptian village dish usually made with pigeons * This Egyptian village dish usually made with pigeons (hamam) (hamam) is just as good, and easier to make, with a good corn-fed chicken. is just as good, and easier to make, with a good corn-fed chicken. Ferik Ferik is young green wheat which has been harvested before it is ripe and set alight between layers of straw. The moist young kernels are separated from the charred chaff and straw by threshing, then washed and dried and coa.r.s.ely ground. There is a pleasant roughness and a lingering smoky flavor about this grain. You will find it (also spelled is young green wheat which has been harvested before it is ripe and set alight between layers of straw. The moist young kernels are separated from the charred chaff and straw by threshing, then washed and dried and coa.r.s.ely ground. There is a pleasant roughness and a lingering smoky flavor about this grain. You will find it (also spelled frika) frika) in Middle Eastern stores. It needs to be washed in 2 or 3 changes of water. in Middle Eastern stores. It needs to be washed in 2 or 3 changes of water.

A 3-pound chicken 1 medium onion, peeled and left wholeand 1 large onion, chopped Salt and pepper 1 teaspoon ground cardamom 1 teaspoons cinnamon teaspoon allspice 4 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or vegetable oil 2 cups ferik, washed Put the chicken in a pan with the whole onion and cover with water. Bring to the boil and remove the sc.u.m. Add salt, pepper, cardamom, cinnamon, and allspice, and simmer for 1 hour.

In another pan, fry the chopped onion in 2 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter or oil until soft. Add the drained ferik ferik (green wheat) and stir for 1-2 minutes. Pour in 1 cup of the chicken broth, stir well, and cook for 5 minutes, until the water is absorbed. Then stir in the remaining b.u.t.ter. (green wheat) and stir for 1-2 minutes. Pour in 1 cup of the chicken broth, stir well, and cook for 5 minutes, until the water is absorbed. Then stir in the remaining b.u.t.ter.

Lift out the chicken, cut it into pieces, and arrange in a baking dish. A clay one with straight sides, called a tagen tagen, is used in Egypt.

Spread the wheat on top. Reduce the chicken broth remaining in the pan and boil it down to about 1 cups. Pour 1 cups of broth over the wheat, cover with foil, and cook in a preheated 350F oven for about 30 minutes.

Variation For hamam bel ferik hamam bel ferik, use 4 baby squabs instead of the chicken, and leave them whole.

Ferik Green Wheat 1. Serves 4 * * Ferik Ferik (also spelled (also spelled frika) frika), or green wheat, which is very common in the Egyptian countryside, makes a good side dish. It has a wonderful earthy texture and an unusual smoky flavor. (See the introduction to the preceding recipe.) 1 cup ferik 1 cups water Salt 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter Wash the ferik ferik in 2 or 3 changes of water, then rinse in a colander. in 2 or 3 changes of water, then rinse in a colander.

Bring the water with salt to the boil in a saucepan. Add the ferik ferik, bring to the boil again, and cook, covered, over low heat for about 15 minutes, or until the grain is tender, adding a little water if it is too dry.

Stir in the b.u.t.ter and leave, covered, for about 10 minutes before serving.

Kes Ksou Couscous Couscous is the staple food and national dish of the Maghreb-the North African countries of Morocco, Tunisia, Algeria, and Libya. The processed grain is durum hard-wheat semolina which has been ground a little coa.r.s.ely, then moistened and coated or "rolled" in flour (usually durum flour). The resulting granules are cooked by steaming. (Other grains-barley, corn, and millet-are also used, to make different kinds of couscous.) The name also refers to dishes based on the grain-soupy stews with meat, chicken, or fish and vegetables, over which the grain is steamed.

According to French statistics, couscous has become the dish most commonly eaten outside the home in France today. They call the phenomenon "la conquete de la France par le couscous" "la conquete de la France par le couscous" (the conquest of France by couscous). It happened as a result of the great waves of "Pieds Noirs" (returning settlers from the old French colonies) and North African immigrant workers who have come to France since the colonies gained independence. To French people, couscous is the cheap filling meal you can get in the small corner restaurant. Because the greater number of immigrants are from Algeria, it is an Algerian type of couscous, with tomato paste and plenty of peppery harissa (page 464), that has emerged as the standard, with the usual kind of transformations that occur when dishes move to a new country and from the home to the cafe. The famous (the conquest of France by couscous). It happened as a result of the great waves of "Pieds Noirs" (returning settlers from the old French colonies) and North African immigrant workers who have come to France since the colonies gained independence. To French people, couscous is the cheap filling meal you can get in the small corner restaurant. Because the greater number of immigrants are from Algeria, it is an Algerian type of couscous, with tomato paste and plenty of peppery harissa (page 464), that has emerged as the standard, with the usual kind of transformations that occur when dishes move to a new country and from the home to the cafe. The famous couscous royal couscous royal with different meats, some boiled, some grilled, and the with different meats, some boiled, some grilled, and the couscous merguez couscous merguez with spicy sausages, have nothing to do with dishes in North Africa. with spicy sausages, have nothing to do with dishes in North Africa.

In North Africa, couscous is served on great occasions both happy and sad-at funerals and at weddings. It is a celebratory dish served at the end of great feasts to make sure that no one could be left hungry. Usually it is the musicians and the tol-bas, the men who come to pray in expectation of a good meal, who get to eat it. At home, it is the traditional Friday meal, into which goes any vegetable left over from the week"s provisions. And it is the food sent to the mosque to be distributed to the poor.

Couscous is a.s.sociated with the indigenous Berbers, who call it kesksou kesksou. No written reference was made of it until the thirteenth century, at the time when the Almohad dynasty ruled Andalusia and all of North Africa, when it featured prominently in culinary ma.n.u.scripts of both the Maghreb and Spain. The special type of durum wheat which is used originated in Ethiopia and was supposedly introduced in the region by the Arabs by the tenth century. But it is in the Berber lands, where steaming in a clay colander placed over a steaming pot was an age-old practice, that the special way of rolling the grain and cooking it over a stew was developed. A few couscous dishes have been adopted by other Arab countries, such as Egypt and Lebanon, where they call it maghrebia maghrebia (perhaps because the word (perhaps because the word cous cous in Arabic is an unmentionable part of the female anatomy), but these dishes are very different from the ones of North Africa. in Arabic is an unmentionable part of the female anatomy), but these dishes are very different from the ones of North Africa.

Until not very long ago, in North Africa, every family bought its wheat at the market and took it to the local mill to be ground to the degree of fineness they preferred. Back home, the grain went through a process of rolling with fine flour. Large amounts were prepared to be stored, or for occasions such as a wedding or a circ.u.mcision or a return from a pilgrimage to Mecca. Women from the family and neighbors got together to do it. The preparation took hours, but it was a day of fun and rejoicing, when the women gossiped and laughed and sang. When the rolled grain was to be stored so that it could keep, it was steamed for about twenty minutes, then dried out in the shade in the open for two days on sheets laid out on rooftops. Nowadays very few women roll their own grain, even in the countryside. The process has been industrialized, and they buy it ready-rolled and partially precooked, or an instant (precooked) variety which they can get in three different grades: fine, medium, and large. Those who will only have the homemade couscous for a special event call professional artisans-Berber women or dadas (see page 125)-to the house to make it.

Traditionalists and purists find the commercial instant or quick-cooking variety unacceptable, even offensive. It certainly does not have the special quality of the real thing, used as soon as the grain has been rolled, but I suspect they are also mourning the loss of an old culture and the rituals that accompany it. The instant or quick-cooking couscous is used in many North African restaurants in Paris and by busy families in France as well as in Algeria, Tunisia, and Morocco, and it is that which you will find in your supermarket and specialty store. If you treat it in the best possible way-and it can also be the easiest way-it will give you very good results. The aim is to make it swell and become extremely light and airy, each grain soft, delicate, velvety, and separate from its neighbor.

There are many regional and seasonal versions of the dish. Every family makes couscous in their own special way, and every time it is made, it is different. It can be very simple, with the grain and one vegetable alone, or it can be quite grandiose, with baby pigeons sitting on a mountain of grain with a scattering of almonds and raisins.

The soup or stew is generally made with meat, usually lamb, or chicken, and a number of vegetables. Chickpeas are often added, and sometimes raisins too. The broth may be colored red with tomato paste or yellow with saffron or turmeric. Many spices are used, but sparingly, so that one can hardly define each individual aroma.

In Algeria and Tunisia a fiery sauce is prepared separately with some of the broth mixed with harissa or with ground chili pepper. This sauce is served beside the couscous for those who wish to be "inflamed and intoxicated." In Morocco stews are light, with a delicate and aromatic blend of flavorings. In Tunisia and Algeria, where the meat, and sometimes the vegetables too, are first braised in b.u.t.ter or oil, they are heavier and more strongly flavored. Tunisians like their stews hot and peppery. Algerians often add tomato paste.

Couscous has become very fashionable in America these days. It is used by chefs in all kinds of inventive ways. For people at home it can be the easiest thing to prepare in advance and to serve at a large dinner party. It is quite spectacular, and there is something about the dish that inspires conviviality. For those who have been to North Africa, it evokes the extraordinarily exotic charms of the Maghreb.

Couscous Steaming Traditional Couscous The traditional method of cooking couscous (the "real thing," not the quick-cooking variety) is by steaming over a watery stew or over water. The method calls for delicate handling. Bad handling will result in a lumpy and rather stodgy couscous.

The grain must cook only in the steam. It must not touch the broth throughout the steaming. The couscoussier couscoussier, the pot traditionally used, is made of glazed earthenware or tinned copper, and, more recently, of aluminum or stainless steel, and has two parts-the bottom is a large round pot in which the stew is cooked, the top consists of a colander to hold the couscous. If you cannot get an authentic couscoussier couscoussier, you can improvise with a metal colander with small holes that fits snugly over a large pan. It is important that steam can escape only from the top, so seal the join with a band of wet cloth (it is most effective if the wet cloth is steeped in a flour-and-water paste) or with aluminum foil.

When the stew in the bottom part of the couscoussier couscoussier is well on the way (about 1 hour before the end of cooking), start preparing the grain. Wash 3 cups couscous in plenty of water and drain in a sieve. Put in a wide bowl and let the grain absorb the moisture for 10 minutes. Then rub between your hands to break up any lumps and to air the grain. Turn it into the sieve part of the is well on the way (about 1 hour before the end of cooking), start preparing the grain. Wash 3 cups couscous in plenty of water and drain in a sieve. Put in a wide bowl and let the grain absorb the moisture for 10 minutes. Then rub between your hands to break up any lumps and to air the grain. Turn it into the sieve part of the couscoussier couscoussier, sprinkling the grain lightly in layers and not pressing it down. Do not cover the sieve with a lid. After the couscous begins to give off steam, continue to steam for 15 minutes.

Now turn the couscous out back into the bowl. Sprinkle 1 cup of cold water mixed with 1 teaspoon salt over the couscous, then turn and rake the grain with a serving spoon, and, when it is cool enough to handle, rub it between the palms of your hands to break up any lumps and separate and air the grains. The water will make the grains swell. Leave the couscous for 10 minutes, then sprinkle on more water (about 1 cup), until it becomes swollen and tender. Return to the top of the couscoussier couscoussier, and when the steam emerges, let it steam for a further 10 minutes.

Turn out the couscous again. Rub 2 tablespoons vegetable oil in with your hands, and air the grain again. Steam a third time, for 5 minutes. (This can be done much later, just before serving.) Stir in 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter, cut into pieces.

The grain can also be steamed over boiling water.

Note: When using instant quick-cooking couscous, the method is the same but the repeated steaming time is very much reduced, and most people usually steam only twice instead of three times. When using instant quick-cooking couscous, the method is the same but the repeated steaming time is very much reduced, and most people usually steam only twice instead of three times.

Cooking with Commercial Quick-Cooking Couscous The commercial varieties of couscous we get in the U.S.A. are industrially precooked and instant. They are the "medium"-sized granules, which are best for ordinary couscous dishes. A "fine" size is used for the sweet couscous seffa seffa that you will find in the dessert chapter (page 422), but the "medium" will also do. I visited a couscous factory in Sfax during an Oldways International Symposium in 1993 which took us on a fabulous gastronomic tour of Tunisia. We were received with welcoming banners, and offered a tasting of dozens of sumptuous couscous dishes-both savory and sweet-and a demonstration by women in Berber dress of the old ancestral ways of rolling couscous by hand. When the owner of the factory showed me around the plant, I asked him what the best way to use his product was, since packages sold abroad gave different instructions. He said that, although steaming is a ritual and part of the culture of North Africa, which the people are used to and hold on to (they steam everything, including vermicelli and rice), you could just as well add water and heat up the precooked couscous in the oven or a microwave. that you will find in the dessert chapter (page 422), but the "medium" will also do. I visited a couscous factory in Sfax during an Oldways International Symposium in 1993 which took us on a fabulous gastronomic tour of Tunisia. We were received with welcoming banners, and offered a tasting of dozens of sumptuous couscous dishes-both savory and sweet-and a demonstration by women in Berber dress of the old ancestral ways of rolling couscous by hand. When the owner of the factory showed me around the plant, I asked him what the best way to use his product was, since packages sold abroad gave different instructions. He said that, although steaming is a ritual and part of the culture of North Africa, which the people are used to and hold on to (they steam everything, including vermicelli and rice), you could just as well add water and heat up the precooked couscous in the oven or a microwave.

I know from hearing home cooks complain about their failures trying to steam precooked couscous that you are more likely to have success by simply heating it up in the oven, for example. I want couscous to be easy and trouble-free, so that people will adopt it. Couscous should be the easiest thing for you to make, but there is an art, even with the instant variety, to achieving a light, airy, separate, and digestible grain. Follow the instructions below for an easy way of preparing quick-cooking couscous in the oven and you will get good results.

An Easy Way of Preparing Quick-Cooking Couscous in the Oven This is how I make couscous. It is very simple, and you can hardly fail, but there is an art to doing it well.

A package of couscous weighing 500 grams contains 3 cups, while a 1-pound package contains only 2 A cups, so you had better measure it, as the weight varies depending on the brand. A foreign brand is likely to be 500 grams.

In North Africa 6 cups usually serve 6-8 people, but for us 3-4 cups are ample.

Put the couscous in a wide oven dish so that the grains are not squashed on top of each other. I use a large round clay dish, in which I also serve. Gradually add the same volume (3 cups for 3 cups of grain) of warm salted water (with -1 teaspoon of salt), stirring all the time so that it is absorbed evenly. Keep fluffing up the grain with a fork and breaking up any lumps (as the grains stick together). After about 10-15 minutes, when the grain is plump and tender, mix in 3 tablespoons vegetable oil and rub the grain between your hands above the bowl, to air it and break up any lumps.

Put the dish, uncovered (I used to cover it with foil, but now I find that leaving it uncovered keeps it fluffier), in a preheated 400F oven and heat through for 15-20 minutes, until very hot. After about 10 minutes, fluff it up again with a fork. (Smaller quant.i.ties can be heated, covered, in a microwave oven.) Before serving, work in 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or vegetable oil and break up any lumps very thoroughly.

Other common package instructions recommended by manufacturers: 1. 1. For 2 people, boil 1 cup salted water in a saucepan. Remove from the heat, add 1 tablespoon oil and 1 cup couscous, and mix. Allow the couscous to expand for 5-7 minutes, then add a k.n.o.b of b.u.t.ter and separate the grains with a fork. Reheat for a minute over low heat while continuously stirring, or place for 1 minute in a microwave oven.

2. 2. For 5-6 people, use 3 cups couscous. Empty the box into a dish and moisten with lukewarm water mixed with -1 teaspoon salt. Allow 10 minutes for the couscous to puff up before steaming in a teaspoon salt. Allow 10 minutes for the couscous to puff up before steaming in a couscoussier couscoussier. As soon as the steam has penetrated through the couscous, empty into a dish and toss with b.u.t.ter or oil.

Serving Couscous The traditional way to serve couscous is in a wide, round, slightly deep dish. Shape the grain in a mound or a cone with a hollow at the top. Lay the meat in the hollow and the vegetables on top or on the sides. Pour 1 or 2 ladles of broth over it all. Bring the rest of the broth to the table separately. By tradition, couscous is a communal dish, and the old way was for everyone to eat with one hand from the serving dish, from the side in front of them. Nowadays it is eaten with a spoon. The meat is supposed to be so tender that you don"t need to cut it with a knife. On grand occasions the mound of couscous is garnished with boiled chickpeas, raisins, and fried blanched almonds, as well as sprinklings of confectioners" sugar and ground cinnamon for decoration.

Another way of serving, which has been adopted in France and which you might find more practical, is to serve in separate dishes: the grain on its own, the broth with the meat and vegetables in a separate bowl. Serve in soup plates, the grain on the bottom with the meat and vegetables and the broth ladled on top. If you like, pa.s.s around a peppery sauce made by adding harissa (page 464) or ground chili pepper to a few ladles of the broth.

Variations to the Grain For saffron couscous, add teaspoon powdered saffron to the water before moistening the couscous.

Serve the grain mixed with hot cooked or canned chickpeas, heated through, and raisins, boiled in a little water and then strained.

Garnishes Sprinkle the grain with cinnamon and confectioners" sugar and whole or chopped toasted blanched almonds, making a design with lines of cinnamon fanning down like rays from the top.

Decorate with walnut halves and raisins.