In a Turkish version called Ali Pasha kebab Ali Pasha kebab, meat is stewed with 1 chopped onion and 2 peeled and chopped tomatoes, until the meat is tender and the liquid has dried out, before it is wrapped in fillo and baked. The result is wonderfully moist, tender meat.

Kuzu Kapama Lamb with Scallions and Herbs Serves 6 * A Turkish specialty. The meat becomes so tender you can pull pieces off with your fingers. * A Turkish specialty. The meat becomes so tender you can pull pieces off with your fingers.

1 leg of young, tender lamb (about 4 pounds) 2 large bunches of scallions, chopped 1 bunch of fresh dill or chervil, finely chopped 1 large onion, quartered 1 cup water 2 tablespoons oil Salt and pepper Clean the leg of lamb and remove excess fat. Put it in a saucepan or ca.s.serole with the scallions, herbs, and onion. Add water and oil, and season with salt and pepper. Cover and simmer gently for about 2-3 hours, or until very tender, turning the lamb over occasionally, and adding a little more water as necessary.

Choua Moroccan Steamed Lamb Serves 6 * The popularity of tagines means that they have eclipsed other methods of cooking in Morocco, such as steaming, where the meat becomes very tender and succulent. Serve * The popularity of tagines means that they have eclipsed other methods of cooking in Morocco, such as steaming, where the meat becomes very tender and succulent. Serve choua choua with mashed potatoes and with vegetables such as zucchini or eggplants. with mashed potatoes and with vegetables such as zucchini or eggplants.

2 pounds leg or shoulder of lamb, cut into -inch cubes Salt 1 teaspoon ground c.u.min Sprinkle lamb lightly with salt and c.u.min. Steam over boiling water for about 2 hours, or until the meat is tender and juicy. In the past, steaming was done in a pot sealed with paste, but today a hermetically sealed double steamer can be used instead.

Lab an Ummo Meat Cooked in Yogurt Serves 6 * Recipes for meat cooked in yogurt abound in medieval Arabic cookery manuals, where the dish was called * Recipes for meat cooked in yogurt abound in medieval Arabic cookery manuals, where the dish was called madira madira. As early as the tenth century, the Arab writer Badia"z Zaman wrote a tale ent.i.tled "Al Madirya" about the dish. Such dishes are still popular in the Arab world. The name of this Lebanese version, which means "his mother"s milk," implies that the meat of a young animal is cooked in its own mother"s milk. It can be made with chunks of meat or lamb shanks. Serve with plain rice (page 337) or rice with vermicelli (page 340).

2 pounds lean lamb, preferably leg, cut into 1-inch cubes Salt and white pepper 1 pound pearl or small onions, peeled 5 cups plain whole-milk yogurt or, preferably, strained Greek-style yogurt 1 egg white or 1 tablespoon cornstarch 3 cloves garlic, crushed or finely chopped (optional) 1 tablespoon dried crushed mint (optional) Put the meat in a large pan and cover with water. Bring to the boil, remove any sc.u.m, and add salt and pepper. Cook with the lid on for 1 hour.

Add the onions and cook for hour more, or until the meat is very tender and the onions are soft, adding water to keep the meat covered at first and letting it reduce, uncovered, so that most of it has evaporated at the end and there is hardly any broth left.

Prepare the yogurt by mixing with egg white, or the cornstarch dissolved in a little water, following the directions for stabilizing yogurt on page 113, to prevent it from curdling during cooking. Add it to the cooked meat, stir in the garlic if using, and simmer gently, uncovered, for 10 to 15 minutes, adding a little salt. Stir in the mint, if using, towards the end. Some cooks pa.s.s round a little bowl of dried mint for people to help themselves if they wish.

Variations Use 6 small lamb shanks instead of the cubed meat, and cook them until they are so tender that the meat falls off the bone.

For an Egyptian version, add 5 cardamom pods to the meat and onions from the beginning. Just before serving, fry 4 crushed garlic cloves with 1 tablespoon ground coriander in 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or oil, until the garlic just begins to color, and pour over the meat and yogurt as you serve.

A Turkish version has a large bunch of chopped dill added towards the end of the cooking.

Mozaat Veal Shank with Potatoes Serves 6 * The particular quality of this stew, which I hated as a child, lies in its texture. The knuckle or shin of veal (we called it * The particular quality of this stew, which I hated as a child, lies in its texture. The knuckle or shin of veal (we called it bitello bitello, from the Italian vitello) vitello) contains the large leg-bone and marrow. The connective tissue turns into gelatin while the meat becomes juicy and succulent. In Egypt, the potatoes were sliced and fried in oil before going into the stew, but I prefer to omit the frying. contains the large leg-bone and marrow. The connective tissue turns into gelatin while the meat becomes juicy and succulent. In Egypt, the potatoes were sliced and fried in oil before going into the stew, but I prefer to omit the frying.

2 pounds shin of veal (shanks) in large pieces with bone 3 tablespoons vegetable oil Salt and pepper Juice of lemon teaspoon turmeric (optional) 1 pounds potatoes, cut into thick slices, or small peeled new potatoes In a large pan, saute the meat in hot oil, turning to brown the pieces all over. Season with salt and pepper, add lemon juice and, if you wish, turmeric. Half-cover with water. Simmer, covered, for 1 hours, or until the meat is very tender and the sauce rich and reduced, adding a little more water as it becomes absorbed, and turning the meat over occasionally.

Add the potatoes and more water to cover them, and cook for 30 minutes, until they are tender and have absorbed the rich flavors of the sauce. Serve hot.

Variation Add 9 frozen artichoke bottoms (a 14-ounce package), defrosted, for the last 20 minutes of cooking, and use fewer potatoes.

Hunkar Begendi Lamb Stew with Creamy Eggplant Sauce Serves 6 * This dish is uniquely Turkish, and was developed in the Ottoman palace kitchens. A current legend surrounding the name of the dish, which means "sultan"s delight," places it in 1869, when the Sultan Abdul Aziz entertained Empress Eugenie, wife of Napoleon III, in his white rococo palace of Beylerbey, on the Asian side of the Bosporus. The Empress was ecstatic about the creamy eggplant sauce which served as the bed for a stew and asked for the recipe to be sent to her cooks. The Sultan"s cook explained that he could not give the recipe, because he "cooked with his eyes." Serve it with rice. * This dish is uniquely Turkish, and was developed in the Ottoman palace kitchens. A current legend surrounding the name of the dish, which means "sultan"s delight," places it in 1869, when the Sultan Abdul Aziz entertained Empress Eugenie, wife of Napoleon III, in his white rococo palace of Beylerbey, on the Asian side of the Bosporus. The Empress was ecstatic about the creamy eggplant sauce which served as the bed for a stew and asked for the recipe to be sent to her cooks. The Sultan"s cook explained that he could not give the recipe, because he "cooked with his eyes." Serve it with rice.

FOR THE THE STEW STEW.

1 large onion, cut in half, then in slices 3 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 pound lamb cut into -inch cubes 2 cloves garlic, chopped 1 pound tomatoes, peeled and chopped 1 teaspoon sugar, or to taste Salt and pepper FOR THE THE EGGPLANT CREAM SAUCE EGGPLANT CREAM SAUCE.

3 pounds eggplants Juice of lemon 4 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour 2 cups hot milk Salt and white pepper teaspoon grated nutmeg (optional) cup grated ka.s.seri or cheddar cheese For the lamb stew, fry the onion in the oil until soft. Add the meat and garlic and cook, turning the meat, until lightly browned all over. Add the tomatoes, sugar, salt, and pepper. Cover with water and simmer, with the lid on, for 1-1 hours, until the meat is very tender, adding water if it becomes dry, and letting the liquid reduce at the end.

For the sauce, p.r.i.c.k the eggplants with a pointed knife so that they do not burst in cooking. Put them on a sheet of foil on a baking sheet and roast them in the hottest oven for about hour, turning them on their side (not right over) until they feel very soft when you press them. Peel carefully. Then drop them in a bowl of water with the lemon juice and leave for 15 minutes, to keep their flesh white.

Melt the b.u.t.ter in a saucepan, add the flour, and stir over very low heat for about 2 minutes, until well blended. Remove from the heat and add the milk gradually, beating vigorously all the time. Season with salt and white pepper, add nutmeg, if you like, and cook over low heat, stirring constantly, for about 15 minutes, until the milk sauce thickens.

Drain the eggplants in a colander and press out as much of the water and juices as possible. Chop them with a pointed knife in the colander, then mash them with a fork. Mix with the milk sauce, beating vigorously until well blended. Return to the heat, add the grated cheese, stir until melted, taste, and add salt and pepper. (The traditional way is to add the eggplants first, before the milk, but I find it easier to make the bechamel-type sauce first and then incorporate the eggplant.) Serve the stew with the eggplant cream sauce in a ring around it.

Veal Chops in Tomato Sauce Serves 2 * A quick and simple dish to be served with rice, bulgur, or potatoes, or with bread. * A quick and simple dish to be served with rice, bulgur, or potatoes, or with bread.

2 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 loin veal chops 1 onion, sliced 1 or 2 cloves garlic, chopped 3 ripe tomatoes, skinned and chopped 1 teaspoon sugar, or to taste Salt and pepper 1 tablespoon chopped flat-leaf parsley Heat the oil in a skillet, and saute the chops very briefly to brown them lightly on both sides. Remove them from the pan.

Fry the onion in the same oil until golden. Add the garlic and stir until the aroma rises. Then add the tomatoes and season with sugar, salt, and pepper.

Return the chops to the pan and cook gently, turning them over once, for about 10 minutes, or until the meat is tender and the sauce is rich, adding a drop of water if it becomes too dry. Serve with chopped parsley on top.

ARAB PROVERB:.

"G.o.d loveth those who are content."

Lahma bi Ma"ala Meat in the Skillet Serves 6 * A homely Egyptian dish using beef. Serve with rice or potatoes. * A homely Egyptian dish using beef. Serve with rice or potatoes.

1 pound onions, coa.r.s.ely chopped 2-3 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 pounds best stewing beef, chuck or top rump, cut into 1-inch cubes Salt and pepper 1 teaspoon ground allspice 1 pound tomatoes, skinned and chopped 2 tablespoons tomato paste cup chopped flat-leaf parsley In a large skillet, fry the onions in the oil, over low heat, until golden, stirring occasionally. Add the meat, and turn the pieces to brown them all over. Add salt, pepper, and allspice, the tomatoes and tomato paste, and water barely to cover.

Simmer gently for 1-2 hours, until the meat is very tender, covered to begin with, adding a very little water from time to time and letting it reduce at the end. Add parsley towards the end.

Variations For a Moroccan flavor, season with teaspoon c.u.min, teaspoon ginger, teaspoon allspice, and a good pinch of chili powder.

For the Tunisian mirmiz mirmiz, fry a sliced green bell pepper, cut into ribbons with the onions, and put in a small hot dried chili pod or two.

Add a 14-ounce can of chickpeas or navy beans, drained, towards the end.

Bamia Matbookha Meat and Okra Stew Serves 6 * This is a common and much-loved dish of Egypt. You also find it in other countries. Use small okra-they are much nicer than the tougher large ones-and serve with rice or bulgur. Traditionally, okra is put in to cook at the same time as the meat, so that it becomes extremely soft and falls apart, but these days it is not uncommon to add it at a later stage, so that it remains firm. That is the way I like it. * This is a common and much-loved dish of Egypt. You also find it in other countries. Use small okra-they are much nicer than the tougher large ones-and serve with rice or bulgur. Traditionally, okra is put in to cook at the same time as the meat, so that it becomes extremely soft and falls apart, but these days it is not uncommon to add it at a later stage, so that it remains firm. That is the way I like it.

1 pounds small young okra (called bamia bamia in Egypt) in Egypt) 3 tablespoons sunflower or vegetable oil 2 large onions, chopped, or pound baby onions, peeled 2 cloves garlic, chopped 1 teaspoon ground coriander 1 pounds beef, lamb, or veal stew meat, cut into 1-inch cubes 1 pound tomatoes, peeled and sliced 1-1 tablespoons tomato paste Salt and pepper Juice of 1 lemon Wash the okra and trim the stem ends, cutting round the cap to form a little cone.

Heat the oil in a large pan and fry the onions until soft and golden. Start on low heat with the lid on, then uncover and turn up the heat to medium. Add the garlic and coriander and put in the meat. Turn the pieces until they change color all over.

Add the tomatoes, cover with water, and stir in the tomato paste. Season with salt and pepper, stir well, and simmer over low heat for 1-1 hours. Stir in the okra, adding water if necessary, and cook for 20 minutes, or until the meat and okra are tender and the sauce is reduced.

Add lemon juice and serve hot with rice.

Variations In the Said, in Upper Egypt, they boil the meat (about half the quant.i.ty) first in water, then lift the pieces out and cook the okra in the stock along with 2 cups tomato juice and 2 small chopped chili peppers. When the okra is very soft, they mash it with a fork (you can use a food processor). They put the meat back in the pan with the mashed okra and add a sauce called takleya takleya made by frying 5 crushed garlic cloves with 1 teaspoon ground coriander in 2 tablespoons oil until the garlic is golden. The dish is quite soupy. made by frying 5 crushed garlic cloves with 1 teaspoon ground coriander in 2 tablespoons oil until the garlic is golden. The dish is quite soupy.

For an Iraqi version, add 2 dried limes (see page 44) from the start. Crack them open with a hammer before you put them in, or pierce them with a skewer when they have softened in the stew. Omit the fresh lemon juice. The dried limes give a distinctive and delicious flavor.

A Syrian version adds 2 tablespoons pomegranate syrup (mola.s.ses or concentrate) in mid-cooking. Omit the lemon juice.

For a Turkish version, add 2 tablespoons wine vinegar.

Lahma bi Betingan Meat and Eggplant Stew Serves 6 * Also called * Also called buraniya buraniya, this is one dish where I prefer to broil or grill the eggplants instead of frying them, before putting them in the stew. Serve with rice or bulgur or with bread.

2 onions, chopped Vegetable oil 2 or 3 cloves garlic, chopped 1 pounds lamb, beef, or veal, cut into cubes 3 tomatoes, skinned and quartered Salt and pepper Juice of lemon 1 teaspoon cinnamon teaspoon allspice 3 medium eggplants 3 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley Fry the onions in about 2 tablespoons oil until soft and golden. Add the garlic, then add the meat and brown it well. Add the tomatoes and seasonings: salt, pepper, lemon juice, cinnamon, and allspice. Cover with water, stir well, and bring to the boil. Simmer gently, covered, for about 1 hours, until the meat is very tender, adding water to keep it covered.

Cut the eggplants into -inch-thick slices and brush them generously with oil. (You do not need to peel the eggplants, because the peels will soften later, in the stew.) Cook them under the broiler or in a grill pan, turning them over once until lightly colored. (See page 290 about treating eggplants.) Cut them in half and add them to the stew. Simmer, covered, for hour, adding the parsley towards the end.

Variations For a Tunisian version, add 1 cup dried chickpeas, soaked overnight and drained, at the same time as the meat. Add teaspoon harissa (page 464) or a good pinch of ground chili pepper. Other spices can be cinnamon and nutmeg.

For a Moroccan taste, change the spices to 1 teaspoon ground ginger, 1 teaspoon cinnamon, and teaspoon powdered saffron.

In Turkey, roasted bell peppers, quartered, are added in with the eggplants.

Pssal ou Loubia Spicy Sausages and Meat with Haricot or Navy Beans Serves 6 * They call it the Tunisian ca.s.soulet. * They call it the Tunisian ca.s.soulet.

3 tablespoons vegetable oil 3 onions, chopped 6 cloves garlic, chopped 1 pound shoulder of lamb or stewing beef, cut into 6 pieces pound merguez (Tunisian sausages) or chorizo, cut into pieces 1 cup white haricot or navy beans, soaked overnight 3 tomatoes, peeled and chopped 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1 teaspoon ground coriander Pepper and salt Heat the oil in a large pan, and fry the onions until lightly colored. Add the garlic and stir until the aroma rises. Put in the meat and the merguez and turn them to brown them lightly all over.

Add the drained beans, the tomatoes, cinnamon, coriander, and pepper. Pour in about 7 cups water and cook, covered, over very low heat for 1 hours. Add salt and simmer another hour, adding a little water if necessary and reducing the sauce towards the end.

Serve hot.

Lamb Tagine with Peas, Preserved Lemon, and Olives Serves 6-8 * Here is another Moroccan tagine. Buy the peas fresh and young, in the pod, when you can. Some supermarkets sell fresh sh.e.l.led ones that are young and sweet, and frozen baby peas- * Here is another Moroccan tagine. Buy the peas fresh and young, in the pod, when you can. Some supermarkets sell fresh sh.e.l.led ones that are young and sweet, and frozen baby peas-pet.i.ts pois-are also perfect to use.

2 pounds leg or shoulder of lamb, trimmed of excess fat and cut into cubes 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 onion, chopped Salt and pepper 1 teaspoon ground ginger A good pinch of chili powder or chili flakes (optional) teaspoon powdered saffron 4 cups sh.e.l.led fresh peas or frozen pet.i.ts pois pet.i.ts pois, defrosted 2 tomatoes, peeled and chopped Peel of 1 preserved lemon, or more (see page 459), cut into pieces 12 green olives Put the meat in a large pot with the oil, onion, salt and pepper, ginger, chili if using, and saffron. Cover with water and cook, covered, for 1-1 hours, until the meat is very tender, adding water to keep it covered in its sauce.

Add the peas, tomatoes, preserved lemon peel, and olives and cook, uncovered, a few minutes longer, until the peas are tender and the sauce is reduced.

Serve hot with bread or couscous.

Marquit Quastal Lamb Tagine with Chestnuts Serves 6-8 * This Tunisian dish, more commonly made with dried chestnuts, is more to my taste with fresh and even frozen ones. While Tunisia has been sympathetic to Western ideas, and although it was subjected to a ma.s.sive immigration of French and Italian peasants when it became a French protectorate, it has sustained Arab cooking in its most ancient form. This beautiful and fragrant stew is an example. * This Tunisian dish, more commonly made with dried chestnuts, is more to my taste with fresh and even frozen ones. While Tunisia has been sympathetic to Western ideas, and although it was subjected to a ma.s.sive immigration of French and Italian peasants when it became a French protectorate, it has sustained Arab cooking in its most ancient form. This beautiful and fragrant stew is an example.

1 large onion, chopped 4 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or olive oil 2 cloves garlic, chopped 2 pounds lamb (preferably shoulder), trimmed of excess fat and cut into 1-inch pieces Salt and pepper 1 teaspoon ground ginger 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1 pounds chestnuts, fresh or frozen (defrosted) 1-2 tablespoons honey (optional) Fry the onion in the b.u.t.ter or oil until it begins to color. Add the garlic and meat and turn to brown it all over. Add salt and pepper, ginger, and cinnamon. Cover with water and simmer, covered, for 1 hours, or until the meat is very tender, adding water to keep it only just covered and letting it reduce towards the end so that the sauce is rich and unctuous.

To peel the fresh chestnuts, make a slit on one side with a sharp, pointed knife and cook under the broiler, turning them over once, until they are browned and the skins come off easily. Peel them when cool enough to handle but still hot. Fifteen minutes before the end of cooking, add them to the meat and stir in the honey if using. If using frozen chestnuts, defrost them thoroughly before putting them into the stew, and simmer 10 minutes. Serve hot.

Variation For a tagine with chickpeas, raisins, and chestnuts, add 1 cup cooked canned chickpeas and 2 tablespoons raisins at the same time as the chestnuts. You could also add 1 tablespoon rose water.

Lamb Tagine with Artichokes and Fava Beans Serves 8 * This Moroccan tagine is easy to make with the frozen artichoke bottoms from Egypt and frozen skinned fava beans (both really good) available in Middle Eastern stores. * This Moroccan tagine is easy to make with the frozen artichoke bottoms from Egypt and frozen skinned fava beans (both really good) available in Middle Eastern stores.

2 pounds shoulder of lamb, cut into large pieces 2 onions, sliced 4 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or vegetable oil Salt and pepper 1 teaspoon ginger teaspoon saffron Two 14-ounce packages frozen artichoke bottoms, defrosted Two 7-ounce packages frozen skinned fava beans, defrosted Juice of -1 lemon cup chopped cilantro leaves 1 preserved lemon peel (page 459), cut into strips (optional if garnish) Put the meat with the onions, b.u.t.ter or oil, salt, pepper, ginger, and saffron in a pan and cook, turning over the meat, for about 5 minutes. Cover with water and simmer, covered, for 1 hours, or until the meat is very tender, adding water if it becomes too dry. Remove the lid and reduce the sauce at the end.

Add the artichoke bottoms, fava beans, and lemon juice and cook 10 minutes, until the artichokes are tender. Add the cilantro and cook 1 or 2 minutes more.

Serve hot, garnished if you like, with the preserved lemon peel.

Variation For an Egyptian beef stew with fresh green fava beans: Saute 1 pound fresh or frozen (and defrosted) beans in 3 tablespoons vegetable oil with 1 pound cubed stewing beef until lightly browned. Add 2 whole garlic cloves, 1 teaspoon ground coriander, salt, and pepper, and cover with water. Simmer, covered, for about 1 hours, or until the meat is very tender.

Tagine Barkok Lamb with Prunes Serves 6 * * Tagine barkok Tagine barkok, made with or without honey, is one of the most popular fruit tagines of North Africa. It is eaten with bread. Restaurants in Paris accompany it with couscous and bowls of boiled chickpeas and boiled raisins (see page 377).

2 pounds shoulder of lamb, cubed and trimmed of excess fat, or cut into 6 pieces 3 tablespoons vegetable oil teaspoon ground ginger teaspoon powdered saffron 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon Salt teaspoon pepper 1 large onion, finely chopped or grated 2 cloves garlic, chopped 12 ounces California pitted prunes, soaked for 1 hour 1-3 tablespoons honey (optional) OPTIONAL GARNISHES.

3 tablespoons lightly toasted sesame seeds -1 cup lightly toasted blanched almonds, left whole or coa.r.s.ely chopped Put the meat in a pan with the oil, ginger, saffron, half the cinnamon, the salt, pepper, onion, and garlic. Cover with water and simmer gently, covered, for 1 hours, until the meat is very tender, adding a little water as required to keep the meat covered.

Add the prunes and the remaining cinnamon and cook 30 minutes, until the liquid is reduced to a thick, unctuous sauce. Stir in the honey, if using, and cook 10 minutes more.

Garnish, if you like, with toasted sesame seeds and almonds.

Variation Put the almonds in with the meat from the start of the cooking; they will come out very soft.

Mishmishiya Tagine of Lamb with Apricots Serves 6-8 * The dish derives its name from the Arabic word for apricot- * The dish derives its name from the Arabic word for apricot-mishmish. Only a tart natural-not sweetened-dried or semi-dried variety will do. Fresh apricots may also be used, in which case they should be added at the end and cooked for a few minutes only, so that they don"t fall apart. The reason why there is fresh gingerroot rather than the ground spice which is usual in Morocco is that the recipe comes from Paris. Serve with bread.

2 large onions, chopped 2 tablespoons vegetable or extra-virgin olive oil 1 teaspoons cinnamon teaspoon c.u.min Good pinch of ground chili pepper, to taste 2 pounds leg or shoulder of lamb, trimmed of excess fat Salt and plenty of pepper 1 inches fresh gingerroot, cut into slices 3 cloves garlic, crushed 1 pound dried apricots A 14-ounce can chickpeas, drained (optional) Fry the onions gently in the oil until soft.

Stir in the cinnamon, c.u.min, and chili powder, and put in the meat. Turn the pieces over, add salt and pepper, ginger, and garlic, and cover with about 2 cups water. Simmer, covered, for 1 hours, turning the meat over occasionally, and adding water if necessary.

Add the apricots and cook for hour more, adding water if necessary.

Add the drained chickpeas, if using, 10 minutes before the end.

Variations An alternative combination of flavorings is teaspoon coriander, teaspoon ground cloves, and 1 teaspoon rose water. Also, cup raisins may be added.

Here is the mishmishiya mishmishiya in al-Baghdadi"s thirteenth-century cookery manual as translated by Arberry (see appendix): "Cut fat meat small, put into the saucepan with a little salt, and cover with water. Boil and remove the sc.u.m. Cut up onions, wash, and throw in on top of the meat. Add seasonings, coriander, c.u.min, mastic, cinnamon, pepper and ginger, well ground. Take dry apricots, soak in hot water, then wash and put in a separate saucepan, and boil lightly; take out, wipe in the hands, and strain through a sieve. Take the juice, and add it to the saucepan to form a broth. Take sweet almonds, grind fine, moisten with a little apricot juice and throw in. Some color with a trifle of saffron. Spray the saucepan with a little rose-water, wipe its sides with a clean rag, and leave to settle over the fire; then remove." in al-Baghdadi"s thirteenth-century cookery manual as translated by Arberry (see appendix): "Cut fat meat small, put into the saucepan with a little salt, and cover with water. Boil and remove the sc.u.m. Cut up onions, wash, and throw in on top of the meat. Add seasonings, coriander, c.u.min, mastic, cinnamon, pepper and ginger, well ground. Take dry apricots, soak in hot water, then wash and put in a separate saucepan, and boil lightly; take out, wipe in the hands, and strain through a sieve. Take the juice, and add it to the saucepan to form a broth. Take sweet almonds, grind fine, moisten with a little apricot juice and throw in. Some color with a trifle of saffron. Spray the saucepan with a little rose-water, wipe its sides with a clean rag, and leave to settle over the fire; then remove."

Rutabiya Tagine of Meat with Dates Serves 6 * * Rutab Rutab is the Arabic word for dates. You might find this dish too sweet. In Morocco it is made with fresh Tafilalet dates, but you may use the Tunisian or the moist dried California ones available in America. Serve with bread. is the Arabic word for dates. You might find this dish too sweet. In Morocco it is made with fresh Tafilalet dates, but you may use the Tunisian or the moist dried California ones available in America. Serve with bread.

2 pounds lamb, trimmed of excess fat Salt and plenty of pepper teaspoon powdered saffron teaspoon ginger 2 teaspoons cinnamon 4 tablespoons oil 2 large onions, finely chopped 1-2 tablespoons honey (optional) - pound fresh or moist dried Tunisian or California dates, pitted - cup blanched almonds, left whole or coa.r.s.ely chopped, toasted or fried in oil 3 tablespoons sesame seeds, toasted Cut the meat into 6 pieces and put it in a pan. Add salt, pepper, saffron, ginger, 1 teaspoon of the cinnamon, and the oil and onions. Cover with water and simmer, covered, for 1 hours, or until the meat is very tender, adding water to keep the meat covered, and turning the pieces over.

Add the honey, if you like, and the remaining cinnamon and cook until the sauce is reduced, turning the pieces of meat over. Add the dates and cook 10-15 minutes more.

Serve sprinkled with almonds and sesame seeds.

Safardjaliya Tagine of Lamb with Quince Serves 6 * This is a Moroccan version of a dish you find in many Middle Eastern countries. Serve with bread. * This is a Moroccan version of a dish you find in many Middle Eastern countries. Serve with bread.

2 pounds shoulder of lamb, cut into large pieces 2 onions, sliced 4 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or vegetable oil Salt and plenty of pepper 1 teaspoon ginger teaspoon saffron 2 pounds quinces Juice of lemon plus 1 optional lemon 1 teaspoon cinnamon 3-4 tablespoons honey Put the meat with the onions, b.u.t.ter or oil, salt, pepper, ginger, and saffron in a large pan and cook, turning over the meat, for about 5 minutes. Cover with water and simmer, covered, over low heat for 1 hours, or until the meat is very tender, adding water if it becomes too dry. Remove the lid at the end to reduce the sauce.

Wash and scrub the quinces. Have ready a pan of boiling water with the juice of lemon. Cut the quinces into quarters (you will need a big strong knife and plenty of force, as they are very hard). Do not peel them, but cut away the blackened ends, and drop them at once into the acidulated boiling water (the lemon stops them from going brown). Simmer for 15-30 minutes, until tender. The time varies greatly, and you must watch them, as they can fall apart very quickly. They should not be too soft. Drain, and when cool enough to handle, cut out the cores.

Put them in the pan with the meat, flesh side up. Sprinkle with cinnamon and pour a little honey on each. Squeeze the extra lemon, if using, over the stew. Cook for 5 minutes, then turn the quinces over and cook a few minutes more.