Side Dishes For caramelized onions, cook 2 pounds sliced onions in about 4 tablespoons sunflower oil, with the lid on, over very low heat, stirring occasionally, for 20-30 minutes, until very soft. Then cook uncovered until they are really very brown, stirring often. Stir in 2 tablespoons sugar and 1 teaspoon cinnamon and cook a few minutes more.

Simmer pound raisins in water to cover for about 10 minutes, until soft, and serve them in a bowl.

Soak pound chickpeas for at least 1 hour, then drain and simmer in fresh water for 1 hours, or until very tender, adding salt when they begin to soften. Serve them hot in a bowl in their cooking water.

Kesksou Bidaoui bel Khodra Berber Couscous with Seven Vegetables 1. Serves 10 * This is the most famous Moroccan couscous, which you can improvise around. It can be made with lamb or chicken or with a mix of the two. In local lore, the number seven has mystical qualities. It brings good luck. Choose seven vegetables out of those listed- onions and tomatoes do not count as vegetables but as flavorings, so choose seven more. It is a long list of ingredients, but the making of the dish is simple-a matter of throwing things into a pot-and it feeds a big party. The soup or stew can be prepared well in advance, and so can the grain. * This is the most famous Moroccan couscous, which you can improvise around. It can be made with lamb or chicken or with a mix of the two. In local lore, the number seven has mystical qualities. It brings good luck. Choose seven vegetables out of those listed- onions and tomatoes do not count as vegetables but as flavorings, so choose seven more. It is a long list of ingredients, but the making of the dish is simple-a matter of throwing things into a pot-and it feeds a big party. The soup or stew can be prepared well in advance, and so can the grain.

FOR THE GRAIN.

5 cups couscous 5 cups warm water 1-2 teaspoons salt 4 tablespoons vegetable oil 4 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or more oil FOR THE STEW.

3 pounds lean lamb or beef, cut in large pieces, or 1 pounds meat and 1 chicken, cut into pieces 2 large onions, quartered, then cut in thick slices 1 cups chickpeas (soaked overnight) or a 1-pound can, drained 3 tablespoons sunflower oil Pepper teaspoon saffron powder or threads Salt 4 or 5 tomatoes, quartered 1 pound carrots, cut in half lengthwise or into thick pieces 1 pound turnips, peeled and quartered, or left whole if baby ones 1 small or large white cabbage, cut into chunks 1 pound zucchini, cut into big pieces pound fresh sh.e.l.led or frozen fava beans 2 fennel bulbs, quartered 1 pound orange pumpkin, peeled and cut into pieces pound eggplant, cut into pieces 2 green peppers, cut into ribbons 2 chili peppers 1 cup chopped cilantro 1 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley 2 teaspoons harissa (page 464), or 2 tablespoons paprika and 1 teaspoon ground chili pepper, or more to taste Prepare the couscous as described in "An Easy Way of Preparing Quick-Cooking Couscous in the Oven" (page 376), using the quant.i.ties given in the ingredients list above; do not add the final b.u.t.ter till ready to serve.

Put the meats in a large pan with the onions and the drained chickpeas. If you are using canned ones, leave them out now and put them in towards the end of the cooking. Cover with about 3 quarts water, add the oil, pepper, and saffron, and simmer, covered, for 1 hour. Add salt, the tomatoes, carrots, and turnips, and cook for hour more, or until the meats are very tender.

Add the remaining ingredients except the harissa and more water-you need to have plenty of broth-and cook a further hour.

Make a hot, peppery sauce to accompany. Take 3 ladles of broth from the stew and stir in the harissa or the paprika and ground chili pepper-enough to make it very strong and fiery.

To serve, pile the couscous onto a large round dish. Add b.u.t.ter or more oil and work it into the grain as it melts. Shape it into a mound with a pit or crater at the top. Arrange the meat at the top and the vegetables down the sides, and pour a little broth all over.

Serve the broth in a separate bowl. Pa.s.s the broth and the hot, peppery sauce round for people to help themselves.

A French way of serving is to present the couscous separately, and the meat and vegetables with the broth in a large bowl.

Variations You may add cup raisins or pitted dates towards the end.

Other possible flavorings are teaspoon ground ginger, 1 teaspoons cinnamon, and 1 teaspoon coriander.

Algerians put in runner beans and green peas.

Kesksou Tfaya Couscous with Honeyed Caramelized Onions and Raisins 1. Serves 6 * The special feature of this dish is the exquisite mix of honeyed caramelized onions and raisins called * The special feature of this dish is the exquisite mix of honeyed caramelized onions and raisins called tfaya tfaya which is served as a topping of the long-cooked, deliciously tender meat. The broth which moistens the grain is the meat broth. A sprinkling of fried or toasted almonds is an optional garnish. which is served as a topping of the long-cooked, deliciously tender meat. The broth which moistens the grain is the meat broth. A sprinkling of fried or toasted almonds is an optional garnish.

FOR THE GRAIN.

4 cups couscous 4 cups warm water -1 teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons vegetable oil 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or extra oil 2 pounds lamb, cut into large pieces 2 pounds onions Salt and pepper -1 teaspoon ginger 2 teaspoons cinnamon 4 cloves teaspoon saffron threads or powder 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons honey 1 cup raisins, soaked in water for 20 minutes 1 cup almonds Prepare the grain as described in "An Easy Way of Preparing Quick-Cooking Couscous in the Oven" (page 376), using the quant.i.ties given in the ingredients list above.

Prepare the meaty stew or soup. In a large pan, put the meat and about pound of the onions, coa.r.s.ely chopped, and cover with about 1 quarts water. Bring to the boil and remove the sc.u.m. Add salt, pepper, the ginger, 1 teaspoon of the cinnamon, and the cloves and simmer for 1 hours. Add the saffron and more water to keep the meat well covered (there should be a lot of broth) and simmer for hour more. The meat should be so tender you could pull it apart with your hands.

For the honeyed onion tfaya tfaya, cut the remaining onions in half and slice them. Put them in a pan with about 1 cup water. Put the lid on and cook, covered, over low heat (they will steam) for about hour, until the onions are very soft. Remove the lid and cook until the liquid has evaporated. Add the b.u.t.ter and oil and cook until the onions are golden. Stir in the honey and the remaining 1 teaspoons cinnamon, the drained raisins, and a pinch of salt and cook 10 minutes more, or until the onions caramelize and become brown.

Toast the almonds in a dry frying pan or fry them in a drop of oil until golden, turning them over. Coa.r.s.ely chop about half of them.

To serve, make a mound of couscous and make a hollow in the center. Moisten with a ladle of the meat broth. Put the meat in the hollow and cover with the onion-and-raisin tfaya tfaya.

Sprinkle with a mixture of chopped and whole toasted or fried blanched almonds, and serve the broth separately. Alternatively, you might prefer to serve everything separately, or straight into soup plates.

Couscous with Squabs and Almonds 1. Serves 6 * In Morocco, they make this elegant couscous with small Mediterranean pigeons, but squabs and small poussins will also do. Morocco, they make this elegant couscous with small Mediterranean pigeons, but squabs and small poussins will also do.

6 small squabs or poussins 3-4 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or vegetable oil 1 pound onions, chopped 1 pound pearl or pickling onions, peeled Salt and pepper -1 teaspoon saffron threads 1 teaspoon ground ginger 1 cups blanched almonds cup black or golden raisins (optional) Large bunch of cilantro, chopped FOR THE GRAIN.

4 cups couscous 4 cups warm water -1 teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons vegetable oil 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or extra oil Put the squabs in a very large saucepan with the b.u.t.ter or oil and both the chopped and the pearl or pickling onions (an easy way to peel the pearl or pickling ones is to blanch them first in water, which loosens their skins).

Cover with a little more than 2 quarts water. Add salt, pepper, saffron, ginger, almonds, and raisins, and cook, covered, for 45-60 minutes, turning the squabs over, until they are very tender, adding the cilantro towards the end.

At the same time, prepare the grain as described in "An Easy Way of Preparing Quick-Cooking Couscous in the Oven" (page 376), using the quant.i.ties given in the ingredients list above.

Before serving, break up any lumps very thoroughly and work in the 3 tablespoons of b.u.t.ter or extra oil. Shape into a mound and arrange the squabs on top. Fish out the onions, almonds, and raisins with a perforated spoon and scatter them around the squabs. Serve the broth separately.

Variation If you like, make a hot sauce to pa.s.s around for people to help themselves if they want to: pour 2 ladles of the stock into a bowl, and mix in 1 teaspoon harissa or more to taste (see page 464), or 1 teaspoon paprika and teaspoon ground chili pepper.

Couscous with Lamb and Prunes In Moroccan restaurants in Paris a popular item on the couscous menu is a tagine of lamb with prunes (see page 254) served with couscous. It is quite delicious. Prepare the couscous as described in "An Easy Way of Preparing Quick-Cooking Couscous in the Oven" (page 376). In bowls, as side dishes, they also give you boiled chickpeas and boiled raisins (page 377). It is a wonderful combination.

Kesksou bel Hout wal Tomatish Couscous with Seafood and a Fresh Tomato Sauce 1. Serves 6 * You can use any firm white fish, such as cod, bream, hake, or haddock, for this Algerian couscous. * You can use any firm white fish, such as cod, bream, hake, or haddock, for this Algerian couscous.

FOR THE GRAIN.

3 cups couscous 3 cups warm water -1 teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or extra oil 3 cloves garlic, finely chopped 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 pounds large ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped Salt and pepper 2 teaspoons sugar 1 inches fresh gingerroot, grated, or crushed in a garlic press to extract the juice Pinch of chili flakes or powder (optional) A 14-ounce can chickpeas, drained 1 tablespoons raisins (optional) 1 pounds fish teaks or fillets, skinned pound large shrimp, sh.e.l.led cup chopped flat-leaf parsley cup chopped cilantro Prepare the grain as described in "An Easy Way of Preparing Quick-Cooking Couscous in the Oven" (page 376), using the quant.i.ties given in the ingredients list above, and olive oil instead of vegetable oil.

Saute the garlic in the oil for a few seconds. Add the tomatoes, salt, pepper, sugar, ginger, chili if using, chickpeas, and raisins if using, and simmer 15 minutes.

Put in the fish and cook 3-4 minutes. Add the shrimp and cook 3-4 minutes more, or until the fish flakes when you cut into it. Add the parsley and cilantro towards the end.

Serve hot, poured over the hot couscous.

Variations For a hot Tunisian version, add 1 teaspoon or more harissa (page 464) to the sauce and omit the chili pepper.

* Garnish with 8 green or black olives.

Couscous with Fish, Tomatoes, and Quinces 1. Serves 6 * Tunisia is famous for fish couscous. This uncommon one is elegant and aromatic, with the mingled scents of saffron and quince. Have the fish cleaned and left whole. It is usually steamed in a separate steamer, but it is better to bake it in foil in the oven, which is a way of steaming it. * Tunisia is famous for fish couscous. This uncommon one is elegant and aromatic, with the mingled scents of saffron and quince. Have the fish cleaned and left whole. It is usually steamed in a separate steamer, but it is better to bake it in foil in the oven, which is a way of steaming it.

FOR THE GRAIN.

3 cups couscous 3 cups warm water -1 teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or extra olive oil 3 quinces 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 pound large ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped 1 teaspoon sugar Salt and pepper V4- teaspoon saffron threads or saffron powder 1 fish such as sea ba.s.s, red snapper, or porgy, weighing about 3 pounds, or 2 smaller ones Prepare the grain as described in "An Easy Way of Preparing Quick-Cooking Couscous in the Oven" (page 376), using the quant.i.ties given in the ingredients list above, and olive oil instead of vegetable oil.

Cut the quinces in half and trim off the darkened ends. This fruit is very hard, so use a large strong knife to press down on them. Put them in a pan, cover with water, and simmer about 20 minutes, until just tender. Strain and keep the cooking water. Cut into quarters and remove the cores and pips.

In a large skillet, heat 2 tablespoons oil, put in the tomatoes and add the sugar, salt, pepper, and saffron. Cook until the tomatoes soften and fall apart. Put in the quinces and add 2 ladles of the quince water. Simmer until the quinces are very tender. This is the sauce.

Brush a large sheet of foil (or 2 if you are cooking 2 fish) generously with oil. Place the fish in the middle and sprinkle lightly with salt. Wrap in a baggy parcel, twisting the foil edges together to seal it. Bake at 450F. The cooking time depends on the size of the fish. Test for doneness for a large fish after about 30 minutes, for smaller ones after 20 minutes. Cut down to the backbone at the thickest part and check that the flesh flakes and has turned white and opaque right through.

Serve the couscous in a large round dish. Put the fish in the middle and the sauce around it.

Kesksou bel Hout wal Batata Couscous with Fish and Potatoes 1. Serves 6 * This Algerian couscous is like a fish soup served over the grain. Small fish are left whole and large ones are cut into steaks, but I prefer to use fillets, because it is unpleasant to deal with fish bones here. Use firm white fish such as turbot, bream, cod, haddock, and monkfish. * This Algerian couscous is like a fish soup served over the grain. Small fish are left whole and large ones are cut into steaks, but I prefer to use fillets, because it is unpleasant to deal with fish bones here. Use firm white fish such as turbot, bream, cod, haddock, and monkfish.

FOR THE GRAIN.

3 cups couscous 3 cups warm water -1 teaspoon salt 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2-2 pounds fish fillets Salt and pepper 2 onions, cut in half and sliced 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 5 cloves garlic 1 teaspoon c.u.min 1 tablespoon harissa (see page 464) (optional) 4 tomatoes, peeled and chopped 1 pound waxy new potatoes, cut in half, or quartered if large 1 teaspoon sugar Prepare the grain as described in "An Easy Way of Preparing Quick-Cooking Couscous in the Oven" (page 376), using the quant.i.ties given in the ingredients list above, and using olive oil instead of vegetable oil or b.u.t.ter.

Season the fish with salt and pepper and leave, covered, in the refrigerator while you prepare the soup.

In a large pan, fry the onions in the oil till they just begin to color. Add the garlic and fry for a minute. Then stir in the c.u.min and the harissa, if using. Put in the tomatoes and potatoes. Cover with about 1 quart water and add sugar, salt, and pepper.

Simmer until the potatoes are tender. Then add the fish and cook 4-10 minutes, until the flesh begins to flake when you cut into it.

Serve the grain with the fish on top and the broth in a separate bowl.

Couscous with Peas 1. Serves 4 * This is one of very few traditional couscous dishes using one vegetable alone. Another is with fava beans. You can also mix peas and very young, tender fava beans together. As there is no broth, the grain needs plenty of b.u.t.ter (you could use vegetable or olive oil instead). Tiny young fresh peas are sold podded in packages in some supermarkets. Otherwise, frozen * This is one of very few traditional couscous dishes using one vegetable alone. Another is with fava beans. You can also mix peas and very young, tender fava beans together. As there is no broth, the grain needs plenty of b.u.t.ter (you could use vegetable or olive oil instead). Tiny young fresh peas are sold podded in packages in some supermarkets. Otherwise, frozen pet.i.ts pois pet.i.ts pois will do. will do.

2 cups couscous 2 cups warm water -1 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 4-6 tablespoons b.u.t.ter, cut into small pieces -1 pound fresh peas or frozen pet.i.ts pois pet.i.ts pois Put the couscous in an oven dish and add the salted water gradually, stirring so that it gets absorbed evenly. After about 15 minutes, when the grain has become plump and almost tender, add the oil and rub the grain between your hands to air it and break up any lumps.

Heat the couscous through in a pan, covered with a lid, so that it steams. As it is a small quant.i.ty, it is all right to do it in a saucepan, but you must be careful not to let it burn. Add a drop of water if it seems too dry.

Cook the peas in salted water for minutes only, until they are just tender.

Before serving, break up any lumps in the couscous and stir in the b.u.t.ter and the peas.

Pasta Rishta, s.h.a.ghria, Lissan al a.s.sfour Pasta was known in ancient Persia and is featured in medieval Arab cookery manuals in Syria and Baghdad. The name rishta (rishteh rishta (rishteh in Iran and in Iran and erizte erizte in Turkey)- meaning "thread" in Persian-is used for tagliatelle-type noodles. Other traditional Arab pastas include vermicelli, called in Turkey)- meaning "thread" in Persian-is used for tagliatelle-type noodles. Other traditional Arab pastas include vermicelli, called s.h.a.ghria s.h.a.ghria, and one that looks like fat grains of rice and is called lissan al a.s.sfour lissan al a.s.sfour, which means "bird"s tongues" in Arabic and is known as orzo in the U.S. Like rice, pasta escaped the stigma of being a filling dish for the poor. Instead, it is considered grand, and is served on special occasions. In all the recipes, you can use commercial dry tagliatelle, tagliolini, vermicelli, and orzo.

Very few people make pasta at home anymore, except for when they make the pasta for stuffed dumplings such as manti manti (page 390). (page 390).

The usual way with the long dry commercial pasta-tagliatelle, tagliolini, and vermicelli-is to break it up into small (about 1-inch) pieces and, often, to toast it or fry it first before boiling in water.

Rishta bi Adds Noodles with Lentils 1. Serves 6 * An Arab dish and a Lenten specialty. * An Arab dish and a Lenten specialty.

2 onions, finely chopped 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 or 3 cloves garlic, crushed 1 teaspoon ground coriander 1 cup brown or green lentils, washed Salt pound dry commercial tagliatelle, broken into 1-inch pieces in your hand 4 tablespoons b.u.t.ter Pepper Fry the onions in the oil until soft and golden. Add the garlic and coriander, and continue to fry gently, stirring, until the garlic begins to color.

Boil the drained lentils in plenty of unsalted water for 15-20 minutes, until tender. Add salt, throw in the tagliatelle, and boil vigorously until the pasta is done al dente al dente.

Drain quickly, stir in the b.u.t.ter and the fried onions, sprinkle with pepper, and mix well. Serve very hot.

Variation Sometimes red lentils are used. In this case they are cooked separately in about 2 cups water and allowed to disintegrate to a puree.

Rishta bi Adds wa Tamatem Noodles with Lentils and Tomatoes Serves 4-6 1 large onion, coa.r.s.ely chopped 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 pound ripe tomatoes, peeled and cut into pieces Salt and pepper 1 teaspoon sugar 1 cup green or brown lentils, washed 7 ounces fettucine or tagliatelle 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 1 tablespoon dried mint In a large pan, fry the onion in the oil till golden. Add the tomatoes, season with salt, pepper, and sugar, and turn off the heat. Heat through when you are ready to serve.

Boil the lentils in plenty of water for about 20 minutes, until tender. Add salt and the pasta, and boil vigorously until done al dente al dente. Drain quickly, pour into the pan with the onion and tomatoes, and heat through.

Heat the b.u.t.ter with the mint until it sizzles and pour over the dish before serving.

Rishta bi Betingan Pasta with Eggplants 1. Serves 6-8 * The eggplants are usually fried, but for those who want to broil them, that too can be done, as they are then cooked further in a tomato sauce. * The eggplants are usually fried, but for those who want to broil them, that too can be done, as they are then cooked further in a tomato sauce.

2 pounds eggplants, sliced Salt 1 large onion, chopped Vegetable oil 3 cloves garlic, chopped 2 pounds tomatoes, peeled and chopped 1 teaspoon cinnamon teaspoon nutmeg - teaspoon ground chili pepper or flakes 1 pound tagliatelle cup grated Parmesan or Gruyere (optional) Sprinkle the eggplant slices, if you like, with salt, and leave them in a colander for at least 1 hour to allow the bitter juices to drain. Rinse, drain, and pat dry with paper towels.

Fry the onion in 2 tablespoons oil until soft and golden. Add the garlic and stir for a moment or two. Then add the tomatoes, cinnamon, nutmeg, salt, and the chili pepper or flakes.

Fry the eggplant slices very briefly in about inch of very hot oil, turning them over once until lightly colored, then drain on paper towels. Alternatively, brush the slices with oil and broil them under a preheated broiler, turning them over, until lightly browned. They can be slightly undercooked. Add the eggplants to the tomato sauce and cook for 10 minutes more.

Boil the tagliatelle in salted water until slightly underdone and drain.

Grease a large baking dish. Fill it with alternating layers of pasta and the eggplant mixture, starting and finishing with a layer of pasta and keeping a little of the sauce to pour over the top. Sprinkle, if you like, with grated cheese.

Bake in a 350F oven for 20-30 minutes. The pasta will absorb the flavors of the sauce.

Lissan al a.s.sfour bel Goz Pasta with Walnuts 1. Serves 4 * In Egypt, little "bird"s tongues" pasta that looks like large grains of rice (called orzo in the U.S.) is used. An alternative is broken vermicelli. The pasta is fried or toasted before being cooked in stock. Be sure the walnuts are fresh. * In Egypt, little "bird"s tongues" pasta that looks like large grains of rice (called orzo in the U.S.) is used. An alternative is broken vermicelli. The pasta is fried or toasted before being cooked in stock. Be sure the walnuts are fresh.

1 cup orzo About 3 cups chicken or meat stock (page 143) (or you may use 1-1 bouillon cubes) Salt and pepper 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 cup chopped walnuts Toast the little pasta in a skillet, shaking the pan, to brown them lightly all over. Add stock a cup at a time and a little salt (take into consideration the saltiness of the stock or bouillon), and cook about 15 minutes, until tender. There should be just a little liquid left as the sauce.

Serve in a shallow dish, sprinkled with olive oil and topped with the nuts.

Rishta bi Laban wa Ba.s.sal Tagliatelle with Yogurt and Fried Onions 1. Serves 4 * A large amount of fried onions makes this refreshing Syrian pasta particularly tasty. * A large amount of fried onions makes this refreshing Syrian pasta particularly tasty.

3 large onions, cut in half, then into thick slices 3-4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 3 cloves garlic, crushed 14 ounces tagliatelle Salt 1 quart plain whole-milk yogurt at roomb temperature 1 teaspoon sumac In a large saucepan, fry the onions in the oil, covered, over very low heat, until golden, stirring every so often. Add the garlic and cook moments more, until it begins to color. Turn off the heat. Heat through when you are ready to serve.

Boil the tagliatelle in salted water until done al dente al dente.

Beat the yogurt with a little salt. Serve the tagliatelle directly on the plates. Pour the yogurt on top and sprinkle with fried onions and a dusting of sumac.

Manti Turkish Meat Dumplings in Yogurt Sauce 1. Serves 8-10 * * Manti Manti, a specialty of Kayseri, are said to have been brought to Turkey from China by the Tartars. I first saw them being prepared in a hotel in Izmir twenty years ago. I was accompanied by Nevin Halici, a cooking teacher, culinary historian, and ethnographer, who was then researching the regional foods of Turkey. She was going from village to village, knocking on people"s doors and attending the traditional lunches where women cook together. The second time I saw the little dumplings being made was in a hotel in San Francisco, where at the invitation of the Inst.i.tute of Food and Wine she was cooking a Turkish meal for almost a hundred people. She shaped the dumplings into tiny, open-topped, moneybag-like bundles, baked them for 20 minutes, poured chicken broth over them, and put them back in the oven again until they softened in the broth.

The following recipe is for the easier version, like ravioli, which many Turkish restaurants make today. It is really delicious and quite different from any Italian dish. They call it klasik manti klasik manti, and often cook it in chicken broth (see variation), which is particularly delicious.

FOR THE FILLING.

10 ounces lean ground lamb 1 medium onion, grated 2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley teaspoon salt teaspoon pepper FOR THE PASTA.

2 cups all-purpose flour teaspoon salt 1 egg, lightly beaten About cup water FOR THE SAUCE AND GARNISH.

1 quart thick strained yogurt, at room temperature 4-5 cloves garlic, crushed cup (1 stick) b.u.t.ter, for the garnish 1 teaspoon crushed dried mint or 1 teaspoon chili flakes, for the garnish Salt To make the filling, put all the ingredients in a bowl, mix well, and work to a paste with your hand.

To make the pasta dough, put the flour, salt, and egg in another bowl, and mix well. Gradually add the water, working it in with your hand until the ma.s.s holds together. Add a little flour if too sticky, or a drop of water, if necessary. Knead for 10 minutes, until the dough is smooth and elastic, adding a little flour if too sticky. Divide the dough into 2 b.a.l.l.s. Wrap each in plastic wrap and leave to rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.

Roll out the first ball of dough as thinly as possible (to about 1/16 inch thick) with a floured rolling pin on a floured surface, or use a pasta machine. If rolling by hand, lift the dough occasionally and dust with flour underneath so that the sheet of dough does not stick.

To make the manti manti, cut the sheet of dough into strips 1 inches wide, then cut across the strips to make 1-inch squares. Place a tiny amount of filling-about teaspoon-in the middle of each square (using half the filling for the first sheet of dough). Fold the pasta over the filling so that 2 opposite corners meet, making a triangle. Press the edges very firmly together to seal them. (If they don"t stick, wet around the edges with a finger dipped in water.) Place the manti manti on a floured baking sheet or tea towel, making sure they do not touch. on a floured baking sheet or tea towel, making sure they do not touch.